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Old 01-22-2009, 06:05 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by B4 Racer1 View Post
how much will everything for the car and the car cost to get running..icluding batteries, charger, no remote no power supply...
THANKS
Hey Bryan going to give on-road a try? Well anyway the car itself is about $265 from Tower. Plus a Spektrum receiver will run you about $90. Then you have about $280 for a Sphere Comp TC Spec and LRP motor combo. Plus about $115 for a steering servo. A Pulsar 3 will cost you like $160 and the batteries will cost you $50-$60 each, assuming you get 4 batteries that's another $200-$250. So you are into a whopping total of $1160 before you get the right tires for the track and your body painted.
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:39 PM   #182
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dammm thats a lot of money...
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Old 01-22-2009, 08:55 PM   #183
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Hey guys need to know a few things. What's everybody cutting the tires down too front and rear and a also a good rollout to start with for a novak 13.5
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Old 01-23-2009, 06:10 AM   #184
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dammm thats a lot of money...
I know. Plus in my opinion it is less exciting then off-road.
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Old 01-23-2009, 06:20 AM   #185
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Hey guys need to know a few things. What's everybody cutting the tires down too front and rear and a also a good rollout to start with for a novak 13.5
Start your tires for WGT around 57mm or 2.25" front and rear, and rollout around 62mm to 68mm with a 13.5 Motor.
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Old 01-23-2009, 06:25 AM   #186
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there's only one thing that can make a pancar handle with lipos. a compound designed for the lighter weight.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:51 AM   #187
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Just a quick question does anyone know if the IRS left rear hub on the DB10R is balanced the same and would the RC10R5 axle?
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:36 PM   #188
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Does anyone know if the RC10R5 will easily fit a standard 1/10 servo?

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Old 02-01-2009, 03:49 PM   #189
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You will have to drill a hole and countersink it for a full size servo to fit. I know a few people at my local track that have done it. Seems to work fine.
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:02 PM   #190
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You will have to drill a hole and countersink it for a full size servo to fit. I know a few people at my local track that have done it. Seems to work fine.
Yes it does. I elongated the inside hole. Centered the servo where I wanted and then marked and drilled the outside hole. All this is done using tc5 servo mounts. I have also seen photos where the servo was flipped to the left side of the car and then both holes re-drilled.
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:37 PM   #191
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Default 10R5 wheelbase

The 10R5 comes with 3 wheelbase settings. Anyone have an understanding of when you would use one over the other? Pros/cons of SWB vs LWB etc?
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Old 02-16-2009, 02:47 PM   #192
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The 10R5 comes with 3 wheelbase settings. Anyone have an understanding of when you would use one over the other? Pros/cons of SWB vs LWB etc?
Exactly what I was about to ask about

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Old 02-21-2009, 04:03 AM   #193
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bump...
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:01 AM   #194
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Shorter wheel base is better for tighter tracks. Longer wheel base is better for more wide open tracks. I have never run anything other than the middle hole. I have all the steering I need.
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:06 AM   #195
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I was in a tinkering mood tonight . . .

Every so often I need to access the center screw securing my servo saver. I have my PT mount in the factory location which until now has required removal. PITA. So I drilled the holes in the CF where the 2 side screws that secure the PT are out to roughly 2.7 mm using a 7/64 inch bit. Then I used 2 longer 3 mm screws and 4 mm shims under the PT to raise it up. I did not use the center screw. (2 screws is plenty to secure the PT)Now I can use my 2mm wrench from the front of the car and go under the PT and bumper to access the center SS screw without removing anything.


I also seem to lose the cool blue .5, 1.0, and 2.0 mm shims used for RH on the 10R5. So I happened to look at my Mi3 and had a great idea that works. I used a longer 3mm BHS in the bottom of the arm mount, and included the .5 and 1.0 mm shim between the screw head and the bottom of the chassis. This way I always have the shim I want, and I never have to look for a different length screw if I make a dramatic change in tire size and/or RH. Be careful and test fit things as you want as much screw in the aluminum mount as possible without having too long of a screw that will bottom out on the screw that runs perpendicular above it. Now as long as I always use all of the shims somewhere on the screw, the screw always threads into the aluminum the same amount

Thought I'd share.
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