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Old 05-22-2008, 04:56 PM   #1
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Default Battery soldering method

I just bought some EP 4600 batteries and i was wondering if there is a good way to solder them. I am not new to soldering and i have been making battery packs for years know, but i am never pleased with how the packs come out. Do you tin the top of the batteries or do you pile your solder on top of the bone.
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:25 PM   #2
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hi, u noneed to tip some iron on d battery....u can direct put d bone on d battery n then oni tin it with iron..make sure u scratch d surface u wan to solder b4 u start all d soldering job.....
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:59 PM   #3
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1.make sure to score the ends of the cells with sandpaper or lightly with a dremel, this will help the solder flow and not "pool" up.

2.make sure your iron is 60+ watts and has a big chisel tip, this help from letting the cell suck all the heat out of the tip. if the iron has an adjustable temp, use between 700*f and 400*c

3. lightly tin both the cells and the bar. the idea is to use as little as possible, the solder just has to hold the bar to the cell, it doesnt have to keep the whole pack together, thats why glue you pack together.

-also, always be sure to have a little solder on the tip when doing any work, and wipe the tip off with a damp sponge before every joint. leave solder on the tip when the iron is on and not in use, this prolongs the life of the tip.

4. put the bar on the cell, and use a little(key - little) solder between the iron and the bar, and put it all together. you shouldnt need to keep the iron on the cell for more than 3 seconds. if you do let the cell cool off and try again.

5. repeat and have a nice pack
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:17 PM   #4
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Default battery soldering

well put mike that is the way i do it and like mike said do not leave the tip on the battery to long , or you may damage the cell
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Old 05-23-2008, 02:49 AM   #5
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Hi there, this is my method and have had no problems at all. Put the cells into battery pack jig. Use a screw driver to spread out a small amount of flux on the end of each cell. Then tin each end (this is made MUCH easier by using the flux). Then, put a small amount of flux onto each cell bar. Line it up on the end of the cells and put the iron onto the cell bar. The flux melting will help to get a really good joint between the cell and the cell bar. I put the iron onto the bar and then use the screwdriver to push down on the bar to help with this by the way. I use Corally tubes and use the same method to get them onto the relevent cells. Once everything is together, use a rag and some petrol lighter fluid to get any residue of the cells and that's it, job done. I have NEVER had a pack fall apart in any of my cars (even though they are not glued) and get a really nice professional looking finish to the packs. The only solder is between the cells and the bars/tubes and you do not have loads flowing all over the place making the packs look really naff! Feel free to ask any questions mate if you are not sure about anything I have put on here, all the best, Chris.
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:31 PM   #6
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I solder with two 100watts iron at the same time the bar on the cells; this way you don't create mechanical tension between the cells.
Maybe an overkill but only like this you get a perfect alignment between the cells without tension.

Felix
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:42 PM   #7
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ok just wondering what do you glue your cells with? if i go this route do i glue them before i solder them together.
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:48 PM   #8
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WINGMAN
Can you tell me what flux you use and where do you get it
Thanks
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:55 PM   #9
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Before I solder my cells, I normally add an extra shrinkwrap sleeve to each cell. Keeps the matchers labels looking clean and keeps the cells from shorting out easily on graphite chassis.

Self-Tinning flux will help alot. I just use a 60w Hakko and it does great to sloder cells.

I tin the cells first then put them in the jig. I take the battery bar and put just a little flux on the top and bottom and place onto of the cells to be soldered. Apply the iron and the battery bar will suck to the top of the cells because the solder is flowing into the pores. If you pretinn the bars with solder sometimes you get a hard melt and the solder does not melt and flow properly between the bar and battery.
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Old 05-23-2008, 02:39 PM   #10
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We had a tech tip on show #706 about soldering packs - hope it helps!

http://www.rctvlive.com
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:15 PM   #11
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Default glueing batts

crewman i use shoe goo works great if you ever want to take them apart you can , ie if ya have a cell go bad or what ever reason hope that helps and i useually glue them befor i solder them and i leave the pack in the battery holder until the glue is dry that way you have little if any distortion from the soldering part
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:19 PM   #12
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Default glueing

ps i found you only need to glue one side and you dont half to use alot of glue once you get the battery bars on ,it will be pretty solid
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Old 05-24-2008, 03:49 AM   #13
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I use:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJUR4&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD182&P=M

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJZ81&P=M

and a very high power solder iron.(the more watts/power the better)

do only the top of the bar, when the temp is high enough, the gravity would pull and melt them together. the goal is to finish the job as fast as you can, so the cell would not be over heated.

the weak iron would eventually destroy the cell in most case, because it takes too long to heat up, the battery absorbs all the heat the iron generates and destroys it.

Optional: don't forget to put on the cell wrapper before soldering. but you do need a high temp blower to do so.

good luck, it's quite easy.
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Old 05-24-2008, 04:13 PM   #14
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Hiya, the flux I use is called "La-Co regular soldering FLUX paste'. A 60g pot costs 2.25 and lasts forever (unless you use IB4200's that is!). I forgot to mention that I also shrink wrap each cell before putting them into packs. It does keep those labels nice and clean! I do not glue them together though, there is no need to with the method I use to put the packs together and it makes it easier to take them apart if you want to re-match your packs.
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Old 05-26-2008, 01:53 PM   #15
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- Lightly scuff the ends of the cells (sandpaper or dremel).
- Clean scuffed area with alcohol on a rag.
- Install single cell heat shrink on each cell.
- Glue each cell together with Shoe-Goo or Goop (make it look pretty) and let it dry for a day.
- Tin the ends of every cell with a hot iron and some good silver solder (Deans is cheap and good).
- Tin the ends of the battery bars.
- Place one battery bar in position and press down firmly with a pair of pliars.
- Tin the end of the iron and melt one end of the bar to the cell.
- Repeat the previous two steps until all cells are done.

You know you're doing it right when each bar sinks down onto the cell as you feed solder. This is because the new solder is melting the old solder that was already on the cells...

It's also best to add a bar to each end if you plan to direct solder your ESC for racing. Otherwise just solder your plug wires or favorite connector to the pack ends in the same manner.
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