Carpet Racers Forum
09-04-2001, 10:20 AM
#46
TIRES
sorex has a carpet compound tire now. i believe it's the 20. hpi makes a carpet tire also. it's the advan tread 24mm belted- carpet. the sorex is also a belted tire.
question: is ozite the same thing as office carpet?
question: is ozite the same thing as office carpet?
09-04-2001, 11:16 AM
#47
JOHNNY RACER - I think you can get ozite carpets for the office but most office buildings use an industrial strenght carpet that is very very flat and high strenght. My local track races on this stuff and it's been down now for more than 3 years (I think maybe like 5) and it's not hardly worn at all.
Ozite carpet yeilds more traction than the industrial strenght carpet that my track uses but also cost more. I like it all the same, racing is racing.
Ozite carpet yeilds more traction than the industrial strenght carpet that my track uses but also cost more. I like it all the same, racing is racing.
09-04-2001, 04:42 PM
#48
Yeah, the ozite is different, and pricey.
Well, you can't really say "carpet tire" and "ashfault tire" as some work both ways. Sorex has had the 20R out for as long as I can remember, ppl like to use 20, 24, and 28R.
Well, you can't really say "carpet tire" and "ashfault tire" as some work both ways. Sorex has had the 20R out for as long as I can remember, ppl like to use 20, 24, and 28R.
09-04-2001, 05:09 PM
#49
SORRY.......
it was my understanding that sorex called the 20r a carpet compound. i know for a fact that hpi has the advan in a "carpet" compound. the progression on their website goes: carpet, 27r, and 33r. (this is for the advan tread 24mm belted.)
09-04-2001, 05:49 PM
#50
Maybe they, do I'm just not awar of it...
09-04-2001, 06:55 PM
#51
Tech Rookie
Ozite really isn't pricey at all. It's only about $4 a sq yd and is worth the investment in my opinion.
09-04-2001, 07:14 PM
#52
Wow, that's not bad! Yeah, it really would be worth it. I know our track had some crappy carpet before the ozite, it left alot of fuzz on the cars, but the ozite is much better.
09-04-2001, 08:04 PM
#54
I have, alot of people here like the 139GS or 139G for carpet. I like sorex too, but pits are gone 
I may try some yok tires, speedtech has a set (tires wheels rims) for 34 bucks 
I may try some yok tires, speedtech has a set (tires wheels rims) for 34 bucks
09-04-2001, 09:14 PM
#55
Tech Rookie
Ozite isn't prone to leave the fuzz and that is a real plus. Also the office type carpets have directional plys. The car will react differently depending which direction you are running on the carpet. But with Ozite it remains fairly consistant. Frank at CRC Racing handles it now. The company was going to stop making it and he single handedly save it for the rc masses! I believe he is the exclusive distributor of it now.
09-05-2001, 05:13 PM
#57
What inserts did yo use, Skar?
I might try yok mediums...
I might try yok mediums...
09-05-2001, 05:43 PM
#58
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The sorex 20/24 tires are good but for only 2 runs then they get slower after that...I saw this last year. If you want to put new tires on every 2 runs then go ahead and run the Sorex 20/24 tires. You might want to try 24's and 28's on carpet if you dont like the Yokomo tires, they will last almost aslong a the Yokomo's. The Yokomo's work just as well and have a longer grip life. At our local track the yokomo's are not any slower then the Sorex tires. From all the testing that I have done with them the Sorex tires seem to be very inconsistant from run to run thats what I have found others have their own opinion. I will say with brand new tires the Sorex are just a tic faster but that is gone on the second run then the Yokomo's are just as good if not better.
09-05-2001, 06:02 PM
#59
Kevin,
Can you post your Schumacher Axis 2 setup here. As you probably told you already, I run on ozite carpet with a P2K.
-The track is tight and technical and I run TRC plaids up front and purples in the rear. I use TQ Mod because it is the only stuff allowed. The wheels are 28mm width and they rub, I have to put a spacer on the hex hub. Is there any other solution to this? The same thing happens with my Proline/Jaco foams also.
-What gearing should I start with? Also what is the internal gear ratio of the car?
-What should I have shock length set at, shock positions, camber and arm positions, X brace or no X brace, springs, oil, ride height, etc....
-You said no one way and lock my ABS. Will a carbon fiber graphite chassis help a bunch or should I just go for the Axis upper deck (it's only $29 from Schumacher)?
-I have all of the aluminum bulkheads but the only one I have installed is the front lower and the center ones, is it worth it to install the upper front and the rear aluminum bits?
-I have all new upper and lower suspension arms on the car as well as new bearings, new steering and hub carriers, rebuilt the diff with new rings and diff balls and new belts. I bought the car used and now it is in almost perfect shape. Also where do you get parts for the car, I just order them direct from Schumacher. Any other tips? Thanks so much in advance.
Can you post your Schumacher Axis 2 setup here. As you probably told you already, I run on ozite carpet with a P2K.
-The track is tight and technical and I run TRC plaids up front and purples in the rear. I use TQ Mod because it is the only stuff allowed. The wheels are 28mm width and they rub, I have to put a spacer on the hex hub. Is there any other solution to this? The same thing happens with my Proline/Jaco foams also.
-What gearing should I start with? Also what is the internal gear ratio of the car?
-What should I have shock length set at, shock positions, camber and arm positions, X brace or no X brace, springs, oil, ride height, etc....
-You said no one way and lock my ABS. Will a carbon fiber graphite chassis help a bunch or should I just go for the Axis upper deck (it's only $29 from Schumacher)?
-I have all of the aluminum bulkheads but the only one I have installed is the front lower and the center ones, is it worth it to install the upper front and the rear aluminum bits?
-I have all new upper and lower suspension arms on the car as well as new bearings, new steering and hub carriers, rebuilt the diff with new rings and diff balls and new belts. I bought the car used and now it is in almost perfect shape. Also where do you get parts for the car, I just order them direct from Schumacher. Any other tips? Thanks so much in advance.
09-05-2001, 07:53 PM
#60
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TY....Ok here goes
Front
60wt oil with 2 hole vari pistions and associated red springs. As far as how long they are I dont know for sure but I did unscrew them about 2 turns from seeing no threads left on the shaft. I use the droop screw's to set how far they hang down. I use an associated droop gauge its only a couple bucks and is relative to this setup. I run #3 on the associated droop gauge. The shocks are in the outside hole on the lower arm and are in the second in hole on the tower. The ball stud is in the inline position on the hub and the back position for the steering. I grind the hubs down 1 mm on the bottoms of them this is to get more grip you may like this for week to week racing but the stock size works well for higher traction. The upper arm is in the lower holes on the upper suspension mount. I also have a plate that I made to go under the front lower trans mount and the bell crank mounts to lower the roll center, but if you have the stock chassis this is allready done for you. 1 deg camber and no toe out/in and 4.5 mm ride hight.
Rear
60wt oil with 2 hole vari pistions and associated blue springs. I run #4 on the associated droop gauge in the rear. The lower shock mount is in the out side hole on the arm and at the 3rd hole from the outside on the tower. I use the inline hub location and I cut 2 mm off the bottom of the hubs, when doing this you will need to grind a little off the pivot ball for it will hit the axle. I run the roll center plates with the graphite chassis but if you have the stock one its all ready done. The upper arms are in the lower holes on the upper suspension mount. I run 3 deg toe in and 1 deg camber and 4.5 mm ride hight.
I dont think that the Xbrace does anything to stiffen up the car all. You should run the top plate but make sure it fits flush with everything before you bolt it down, I know that I had to make a spacer to go on the top of my motor mount so it all lined up proper. The abs can be set loose but drive the car first with no one ways and see how it reacts, if its drivable then loosen the ABS but dont try the one way diff unless you can hang on to it. The ratio of the car is 2.1 I belive....I mostly run a 24 to 27 tooth pinion depending on the track. I have all the alum on my car but I have taken 2 rear lower mounts and drilled them out to use them as the upper mounts, doing this lowers the shock towers as well as lowering the upper suspension mounts too. I use TRC tires too Plaids and Purples, you can narrow up the rims by putting them on a truer and taking a file to the inside edge. You want them about 26 mm wide and about 235 for size. Yes the carbon chassis will help but is not needed you can get the car to work well with the stock one.
Wow I just saw how long this is TY e-mail me if you want more at [email protected]
Front
60wt oil with 2 hole vari pistions and associated red springs. As far as how long they are I dont know for sure but I did unscrew them about 2 turns from seeing no threads left on the shaft. I use the droop screw's to set how far they hang down. I use an associated droop gauge its only a couple bucks and is relative to this setup. I run #3 on the associated droop gauge. The shocks are in the outside hole on the lower arm and are in the second in hole on the tower. The ball stud is in the inline position on the hub and the back position for the steering. I grind the hubs down 1 mm on the bottoms of them this is to get more grip you may like this for week to week racing but the stock size works well for higher traction. The upper arm is in the lower holes on the upper suspension mount. I also have a plate that I made to go under the front lower trans mount and the bell crank mounts to lower the roll center, but if you have the stock chassis this is allready done for you. 1 deg camber and no toe out/in and 4.5 mm ride hight.
Rear
60wt oil with 2 hole vari pistions and associated blue springs. I run #4 on the associated droop gauge in the rear. The lower shock mount is in the out side hole on the arm and at the 3rd hole from the outside on the tower. I use the inline hub location and I cut 2 mm off the bottom of the hubs, when doing this you will need to grind a little off the pivot ball for it will hit the axle. I run the roll center plates with the graphite chassis but if you have the stock one its all ready done. The upper arms are in the lower holes on the upper suspension mount. I run 3 deg toe in and 1 deg camber and 4.5 mm ride hight.
I dont think that the Xbrace does anything to stiffen up the car all. You should run the top plate but make sure it fits flush with everything before you bolt it down, I know that I had to make a spacer to go on the top of my motor mount so it all lined up proper. The abs can be set loose but drive the car first with no one ways and see how it reacts, if its drivable then loosen the ABS but dont try the one way diff unless you can hang on to it. The ratio of the car is 2.1 I belive....I mostly run a 24 to 27 tooth pinion depending on the track. I have all the alum on my car but I have taken 2 rear lower mounts and drilled them out to use them as the upper mounts, doing this lowers the shock towers as well as lowering the upper suspension mounts too. I use TRC tires too Plaids and Purples, you can narrow up the rims by putting them on a truer and taking a file to the inside edge. You want them about 26 mm wide and about 235 for size. Yes the carbon chassis will help but is not needed you can get the car to work well with the stock one.
Wow I just saw how long this is TY e-mail me if you want more at [email protected]
