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Old 03-24-2010, 09:49 AM   #1411
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I think that was a hint that he wants you to come out here to SoCal!
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Old 03-30-2010, 07:02 PM   #1412
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Boomer- Yes. I got the hint. Maybe one of my two JSPro200 superspeed way customers in Japan will go. Here is some more eye candy.




JS Pro 10 kit on CRC Gen X 10, Complete Car

For the first time this complete car is available at Stranahan RC. Here is a link to a web page with a 10 photo description of the car.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/JSPro10.html

Here are some of the nice features borrowed from that page.


The finest from Stranahan-RC and CRC are combined here to make the ultimate 235 mm wide pan car. Features include:
  • Dual A-arm front suspension for more steering precision, more cornering grip, fully dampened for no blowovers.
  • 3-link Rear Suspension, for better forward traction, better traction through the bumps, more cornering traction.
  • Wide Pan Axle with standard left side dual clamp hub for lower rotating mass
  • Low center of gravity front arms.
  • Panhard bar controls side to side movement with very low friction for an extremely supple pod in roll.
  • Stranahan-RC Nerf wings protect the rear axle. New 2.0 mm thickness for light weight.
  • Customized RPM Nylon front bumper has the ideal bumper material for trouble free racing. The short length is front diffuser friendly in case the use decides to add one to the body. The bumper includes to forward body post holes.
  • 3mm pod height can be used for ultra low pod center of gravity.
  • Fully Dampened on all four corners. Four tires - four shocks.
  • No more hinged middle section to drag the track and needlessly rotate the motor can with bump.
  • CRC deluxe battery trays from the Losi JRXS for easy, from the bottom, ultra secure battery install.
  • CRC fully adjustable Servo mount plate and Servo Mounts.
  • Easily adjustable front roll center by changing spacer position on the kingpin.
  • Typical pan car like adjustment of camber and caster.
  • Camber adjustments no longer change the roll center.
  • CRC pivot ball tension adjusters on lower arm
  • Antisquat is now adjustable giving you better forward traction than typical pan cars, by changing the height of the side link forwqrd pivots or upper links rear pivot.
  • Track Attack carbide diff balls
  • Kimbrough 90 tooth 48 pitch spur
  • Hand assembled by me. Loctite and steel screws where appropriate. Aluminum screws only where they hold up.
  • Suggested Electronics and tires, LRP SPX8, LRP X12 Geared 13 or 14 tooth. Futaba BLS 451 brushless high speed servo, Thunder Power 2S LiPo 5200 50 C battery pack. BSR purple fronts and BSR pink rears.
No finer wide pan cars are made or sold anywhere. This model cut about 1.3 seconds off my best lap time with a standard wide pan at www.MikesHobbyShop.com Home of the 1/10 2010 IC worlds.

  • Blowovers are eliminated with the dampened front end even with powerfull 3.5 motors.
  • This car was 4 mph faster at the end of our straight than a identically equipped T-plate car. It is that much better through the bumps. It is reaching 65 mph on the present asphalt.
  • In high traction there are few nitros that are faster in lap times or straightaway speed. Electric touring cars are dominated.
  • In medium traction it does much better than a standard pan due to good antisquat and a supple suspension front and back. Four wheel drive does have a slight edge here.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-1-js-pro-10-right-front-view.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-2-js-pro-10-dual-arm-suspension.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-3-js-pro-10-left-side-link.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-10-js-pro-10-left-rear-view.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-03-2010 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 04-03-2010, 08:08 PM   #1413
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Wide Pan JS Pro 10, vs Open Mod Touring Car

Things have changed sinced I last made this comparison in a video. Since the video was made, batteries and motors used by the TC have improved significantly. Battery voltage is higher, battery capacity is higher. Some very nice speed controls that can finally handle this power have evolved, namely the Tekin RX8 and the LRP SPX8 which is 1/10 size. In other words open mod touring cars are faster than the one in my last wide pan vs touring car video. The wide pan in the video was already using a LIPO and a killer 3.5 early Novak motor. This wide pan car has improved markedly, as well, as I learned the final setup tips for it and improved its suspension. On my last racing surface my best lap with the touring car was 18.5 (brushless, LiPo). My best with one of my prototype 3-link dual A-arm wide pans 17.8 s. Since that time the asphalt has been replaced. The run line is a couple of seconds longer to accomodate the 1/10 Internal Combustion Worlds. On this brand new surface, the pan car was incredibly fast for about 3 months, gaining more from the new surface than the touring car. The surface is now well seasoned an is probably typical of virgin asphalt that has had no sealer applied. We apply 30 lbs of sugar to a green track that is 275 x 78 feet. Time for a new series of tests.

Today we are in the middle-end period of pine tree pollen season. A lake nearby has 20 feet of thick pollen visible on the downwind side. We treated the track yesterday, but it was untouched except for practice today. There was some pollen that is visible on the TC frame and tire in the picture. Traction was good, but not high.

In the yellow corner. An open mod Electric TC. A Losi XXXS. Some history. This car came in second of eight at our last big two day race. Other cars included Serpent, X-ray, Cyclone and Tamiya. It was the only one to finish all five heats and the main. In our last race I got into a hard long chase due to a crash near the beginning. I had fast lap and a large number of laps faster than the first and second place car. Cars included, X-ray, Cyclone, A new E4D from Team Magic (second fastest lap). Weight 51 oz minimum. LRP X 12 3.5, Thunderpower 40C 5000 mA-H speed on the straight is 60 mph (estimated)

What I could do with the TC today due to the pollen was about low to mid 20's. 20.4 was my best. I probably could have attained my typical very low 20's with a tire change. It is starting to get hot. These are practice times with no chase involved. Race times are faster and traction is higher.

In the Grey corner, the wide pan; it has the full JS Pro 10 kit. This includes Dual A-arm Front end and 3-link rear end. It is 44 ounces right now with an LRP X 12 3.5, LRP SPX8, Thunderpower 40C 5000 mA-H . Speed on the straight is 65 (clocked). The wide pan was running low 19's. Plenty of 19.0 and one 18.9. So there is a clear winner hear in traction that is not so spectacular. If traction was high we will probably see a larger gap. I'll report again after pollen season. The available turn in from the dual A-arm suspension is just phenomenal.

The fleet, although small, is growing. One complete JSPro ten kit in Canada, two in Houston, Texas, One more planned in Houston. Two JS Pro 200 kits on Gen X 10's on the Superspeedway in Japan. One JS Pro 200 full kit in New York on the oval.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-js-pro-10-vs-open-mod-tc-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-js-pro-10-vs-open-mod-tc-003.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-js-pro-10-vs-open-mod-tc-002.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-03-2010 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 04-07-2010, 06:41 PM   #1414
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Caster and Reactive Caster
Caster is the angle of the kingpin back from the vertical. I like my pan cars at 4 degrees. I have seen others use as high as 10 degrees. Caster does three beneficial things. Primarily it adds wedge to the chassis. If you put the car on four scales and turn the wheels to the left you will see the load increase on left front and right rear. This is classic positive wedge. Steering traction will be improved. The reason is that the overloaded right front in a left hand turn is unloaded by the wedge.

Secondary but important additional effects of caster are that the camber of the outside front is made more negative. Caster adds negative camber as the wheel turns around the slanted kingpin. This increases Steering traction.

Thirdly on tires of any width the car is lifted when caster is used and a turn of the steering wheel is made. The car tends to settle back down which gives a car with more caster a tendency to go straight. This is often mentioned but I think it is more true of full size cars. I can hardly ever tell an improvement here with pan cars.

Reactive Caster
An adjustment was added to sliding kingpin front suspensions later in their development. The CRC pro Strut front suspensions as well as Associated Sliding kingpin front suspensions post L3T have it.

I have used reactive caster successfully in all my traditional type of pan cars. I tended to like the upper inner A-arm block marked 5 degrees. What this block does is tilts the inner A-arm pivot at a 5 degree angle. The end result is that as the car rolls and the upper A-arm moves up, the caster is reduced 1 degree. The 10 degree block reduces caster 2 degrees. So what you have is a device that reduces steering late in the corner when the car is rolled over hard. On my traditional pans they had a tendency to spin the rear out about 1/2 way through a high speed sweeper. Adding the 5 degree block cured this. No longer did you need to make a careful movement of the steering wheel at this point in the turn.

JS Pro 10 Practice Session
This car uses Pro Strut Upper inner Suspension arm mounts. There are 3 of these beautiful Aluminum blocks made by CRC, available again in 0, 5, 10 degree. See the photo, the 0 is installed. Note all the pollen. First I base lined the car. The track was treated today, but we had a pollen problems. 18.4 was the best lap. This is the unofficial but recorded fastest electric lap so far. My open mod touring car got down to 20.2 today. That is almost 2 seconds faster on a moderately poor day. My pan, I am sure, ran faster on the new asphalt, but I could never get them to turn on the timing system.

So what to do. The JS Pro 10 wide pan was running perfect as I could imagine. I put on the 5 degree reactive caster blocks in case corner speed late in the corner could be improved. The car lost significant steering. I increased caster to 6 degree. I got my steering back but it just was not confident and precise as before. I seemed to steer in short straight lines instead of smooth curves. 19.2 was the best lap. I put it back to the 0 degree block.
Anyway reactive caster is adjustable on this car, but you will probably never need to do so.

Part of the Serpent team, including Andrew Branson, from the UK were here practicing for the Worlds with a 1/10 Nitro. Times 18.3 and higher for the most part. This gives you some idea of how fast the JS Pro 10 wide pan is.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-js-pro-10-reactive-caster-experiment-001.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-07-2010 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 04-08-2010, 07:54 PM   #1415
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Droop

With the chassis at rest, after a bounce or two, measure the ride height. Now lift the chassis until the wheel of interest is just about to lift from the bench. Measure ride height again. The difference between the two numbers is your droop; Droop is how much the suspension hangs below the rest position when the chassis lifts from a bump or in roll.

Droop affects the roll stiffness of the car. Less droop firms things up. There is more responsiveness, there is slightly less traction on that end. Use more droop when things are slippery and less droop when traction is high. Remove a little droop from one end of the car to make that end slide just slightly more than before.

On the Pro Strut and similar front suspension, the droop is visible as the gap that develops on the kingpin between the steering block and the lower arm when you lift the chassis. You can easily adjust the droop on the pro strut front suspension by loosening the little brass set screw and then turning the kingpin from below with a .050 Allen wrench. I use droops about .5 to 1.5 mm.

On the JS Pro 10, Pro200 and JS Pro 200 Battle Axe, There is a front droop screw. In photo two you can see the socket head cap screw. You can easily change ride height as the tire wears by turning the shock collar. You must then also reset your droop to keep from binding up the suspension. I use 1.5 to 1.0 mm of droop on the wide pan outdoors on a high speed track.

Rear Droop
Droop on the rear of a pan car is usually just a little more difficult to set, but rarely needs to be reset. Photo 3 shows a Superior Spectre Oval car that I ran last year on the oval. I liked the rear pivot T-plate. (I suspected this was the nearest Ancestor to CRC center pivot ball side link car. Note the pivoting function at the rear of the T-plate is very similar to my lower A-arm extensions.) Antisquat and the resulting forward traction are great. Droop is set by lengthening or shortening the leg th of the shock shaft and by selecting the proper position for the forward shock mount. There are often several positions to select from. The droop is the number of mm the rear of the pod drops below level when you pick the car up. I liked about 2 mm of droop. I added the nut, as a spacer, to the shock shaft and extension to fine tune the length of the shaft. Too much droop here and the car may get twitchy on transitions from power to off power and the reverse.

On the JS Pro 3-link rear suspension the droop is changed by adding internal spacers below the shock piston. Photo four shows 3 possible sources of spacers, at top a .075 inch kingpin spacer, next, 3 o-rings from the shock rebuild kit. After the first rebuild you will have an extra set of old o-rings. Third cut a spacer from a spare shock end. It needs to be drilled to slip fit over the shaft and then cut with a hobby knife. I used 3 mm spacers which should suit long outdoor tracks. Now the droop is near zero with the body off, but the body will load the springs up and adds some real droop of about 1-2 mm. That wide pan car spoiler generates substantial down force at 65 mph requiring 3lb/in springs to keep the chassis off the ground at a 7-8 mm ride height. I estimated well in excess of 13 ounces (on a cut down spoiler) of downforce at 65 mph using windtunnel data. That is half the weight of the sprung chassis. The pod on the JS Pro 10 can lower, but only at about 6 mm (above 5 mm) on my track due to ripples in the asphalt as determined today.

Shock Durability
So how do those little Associated RC18T front shocks hold up?

First, I thought I would describe how a typical pan car center shock holds up, on my high speed outdoor track. There are forces that multiply center shock wear many fold. First there is additional dirt on the O-ring scrubbing the surface finish of the shock. Second there is a very poorly directed stroke on the shock that forces the piston to rub hard on one side of the shock body on bump and rub the other side on rebound. Bumps are hit at very high speed. I remember removing the center shock after only a few sessions of 3.5 pan car wear and tear. The shock fluid was silver iridescent colored from abraded aluminum, The Teflon coating on the body was completely gone. Nothing was amiss. This was repeated. This single shock is taking way too much pounding on a high speed outdoor course.

So how are those two smaller shock going to survive on the JS Pro 10. Well, surprisingly well. Firstly we remove 12.5 ounces of load from the chassis. The pod and motor are not supported by the rear springs, only dampened in a dual mass setup with two shocks. The dual masses are the motor and pod separate, unsprung, and the chassis and electronics, sprung. The 44 ounce weight of the car becomes 31 ounces split half and half between two front shocks and two rear shocks. The rear shock stroke is very straight. There is no scrubbing of the piston like in a center shock car. After 3-4 months there will be wear on the shaft similar to what you find on a touring car after the same time period. Some leakage will become apparent. Time to blow the big bucks ($10-20) and rebuild all four Associated RC18T front shocks with all new o-rings, shock shafts, c clips, bladders, and pistons from the associated rebuild kit.

I have broken only one shaft in two years of hard use on the oval and road course. Occasionally if you bottom the front hard in a crash you will pop off a c-clip. This is easily fixed with no other resulting damage. I have changed the lower ball position some to prevent the shock from bottoming now.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-droop-002.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-4b-js-pro-200-droop-screw-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-superior-spectre-rear-droop-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-droop-001.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-10-2010 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:19 AM   #1416
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Great Post John!

Only thing I would add (that never really seems to get included in the discussion about droop) is that, in road course racing (I don't know diddly about oval) you really, REALLY want droop to be symmetrical L-R. You can end up with strange issues if you have different droop L-R.

Never said, typically assumed, but I think it should be stated and not assumed.
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Old 04-09-2010, 02:33 PM   #1417
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Boomer-Thanks. Seemed I negleted to mention that on my other thread as well. I plan to compile a description of these suspension setting onto a page on my website. It should be popular. The compilation of Gen X 10 and Battle axe building tips is already. It has over 1000 views. Here is that link again in case it is of interest to someone new to the thread

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Genx10BuildingTips.html



JS Pro 200 kit on CRC Gen X 10, 200 mm Wide Pan Car
The finest from Stranahan-RC and CRC are combined here to make the ultimate 200 mm wide pan car. This car is recommended for Road Course. It is also a good candidate for Super Speedway (Velodrome) Racing. This is high speed racing on a high banked oval. It is suitable for 2 wheel-drive class, Top Speed events in the UK and elsewhere. The included CRC Pro Strut sliding kingpin suspension will allow its use in World Gt racing while a fully featured dual A-arm suspension can be used in the off season.

A 12 photo page can be found at this link.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/JSPro200.html
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-parma-db9.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-protoform-dodge-charger-paint.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-1-js-pro-200-front-left-view.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-2-js-pro-200-3-link-view.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-4-js-pro-200-dual-arm-suspension.jpg  

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Old 04-12-2010, 09:55 PM   #1418
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Budget Friendly 3-link

There is no doubt that I like the big red Traxxas Aluminum links for the 3-link. They are very light for their size. They have extremely rugged ends with huge for 1/10 scale threads. This prevents any telescoping of the threads (where the threads skip a thread on impact and shorten the link). They do add to the expense of the 3-link and require that custom forward hole that I put on the Nerf Wings. I also like the Nerf wigns which protect the axle.

Here is an attempt at a more budget friendly 3-link. I used shorter steel steering links instead of Traxxas links. The nerf wings can be eliminated to save weight or retained. Additional weight can be saved with a couple pair of titanium steering links. I plan to build up the car and then give it a road test. If it works well, I will offer it in the standard 3-link package. You will delete the Nerf wings and Traxxas links and add these three links and 6 ball nuts and screws. Should save about $30. The 3-link is shown on a wide pan, but it should work equally well on an oval chassis or 200 mm pan.


Two used JS Pro 10's Wide Pans for sale.
This is a sale that is not likely to be repeated. The cars are made from used parts of my prototypes as well as many new parts. This keeps the price low.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...wide-pans.html

Pic on left, new budget 3-link
middle: Used wide pan for sale, 3-link with dual A-arm front end
right: Used wide pan. All carbon parts except the pod are new. Very nice looking car.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-budget-3-link-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-js-pro-10-used-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-used-js-pro-10-002.jpg  
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:26 PM   #1419
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Budget 3-link vs Pro 10 3-link

I had just enough good weather today to run these two cars and make a comparison. There will soon be about a half dozen of these pro 10's on the track so it might be helfull to go through the tuneup session which was very short and sweet.

Note my latest setup for this car can be found on my Web site now. Go to Assembly, Setup, Templates

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/JSPro10Setup.html

A couple of notes on the budget 3-link. Without the Nerfwings, I could not mount a speed control aft. Previous tests, that I reported in this thread, had shown I could run lighter and have more forward traction if the RX8 was mounted on top in the cockpit area rather than middle side. More weight is transferred back on acceleration when the speed control is high, than when mounting the speed cotrol amidship but to the side. Weight transferred to the side, on cornering with the high speed control, on this wide car, seems not to matter as much. Less ballast need be added with this position. The two cars had identical weight although this car had the heavier speed control.

First impression: I had too much steering traction and it was being delivered too quickly on turning the wheel. This caused directional instability on the straight and darting into the turns too quickly. I used -20% exponentional on the Airtronics radio to slow things down. Now the speed was good but I still had too much steering traction. On the bench I changed front droop from about 2 mm to 1.5 mm. This killed just a little steering traction. At the rear the car was a little bouncy over the bumps. I lowered the rear shock collars some to remove some preload. This increased the rear droop with the body on. On the track now the car was perfect on the second pack. There were still some difference between the two cars. One is just a result of the change in location of the big speed control. The budget car was more nimble through the chicane. It wiggled through better due to a lower polar moment of inertia on the cars vertical axis. It rotated better. There was a loss of forward traction from moving weight forward, though. I had to roll on throttle slower to keep from spinning the rear tires.

And lastly a vibration or tire shudder developed on the budget 3-link on slipping the tires forward. The tires grip and slip in a manner to cause a low frequency growl. It may be possible to tune this out by adding the center post back into the pod. I removed this problem from the JS Pro 10 3-link by removing the center post from the front of the pod.

Conclusion: The budget car worked well. The tire judder could be used as a note that you are adding throttle too fast, so it was not a big problem. The lack of rear weight was a big problem and probably cost .2-.3 seconds per lap from lowered forward acceleration.

I wont offer this option as it required some body post graphite plates. The ones I used are from KSG, I believe. The CRC extended body posts could be used as well. Both would subtract from any cost savings. You really need a platform to put some weight rear like my Nerf wigns, if your battery is going to be inline, Like on the Gen X 10, when you make it wide and put on the powerful motor for a long outdoor course.

I did not crash the car, but I suspect a realignment to the rear will be needed on every crash that touches the rear. With the big Traxxas links this is seldom needed. I ended up with a setup very similar to my car except I ran 2lb/in rear springs (lighter) due to the lessened rear weight bias.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-budget-3-link-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-budget-3-link-002.jpg  
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:15 AM   #1420
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Hi John

I'm thinking of converting my 10L2.5 over to your 3-link. What do you do to align it? is it just a matter of tuning the length of the four links? Do you ever have to mess with the panhard bar?
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:49 AM   #1421
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To Align the 3-link

Put the car on rear tires that are the same height left and right on the setup board. On Gen X 10 variants there is a small hole centered in car at the rear of the pod. It can be used for balance or setup. First center the pod in the car by changin the Panhard Bar length. Use the old center pivot tab as a guide. Now put the small hole centered on the rear of the board or center the rear wheels by using the width marks. Roll the chassis back on a box or wall that you place at the rear of the setup board. This makes the rear axle square to the setup board. now look at the center front of the chassis. it should be centered on the setup board center line. If not adjust the length of of the side links until it is. You can also change the length of the car using the links. I like it a little longer than stock for big outdoor tracks. Once the rear axle is square adjust the top link until the pod bottom plate is parallel to the chassis. Check by removing tires and pushing the chassis flat against the setup board. The pod bottom should be flat as well.

I don't really ever readjust mine unless I disassemble it or change the Traxxas rod ends. If you use the 4-40 links you may have to check this once in a while. It stays well centered with the big links. The secret for us on the Panhard bar is to use high temperature red Loctite on the screw that goes into the motor mount. That keeps the Panhard bar trouble free. That Panhard bar link is only 4-40 due to space limitations, but the Dubbro captured ball rod ends are quite a bit stouter than a regular ball cup. There is a nice short Traxxas link that matches the others if you have space for it.

I use these Traxxas Red Aluminum Links for best results or the longer Jato links on my earlier cars.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPNL4&P=7

Good luck.
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:52 PM   #1422
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Hi John

Can you explain why you use the 8th scale esc's?

Great looking car, I am seriously considering making the purchase.
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Old 04-15-2010, 04:36 PM   #1423
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Jim1-I run my wide pan most of the time in Medium-High traction. We treat the track to that level of traction with sugar water. The car is very fast. For example last Sunday I was on the track with two local open 1/8 th scales (4w-drive) with GTP bodies. My lap times were slightly better. I ended up making up about a 40 foot distance and passing both cars by about 40 feet before the 1/8 scales ran out of fuel. I am going at 1/8th scale speeds. Amp draws are about 50 amps average.
the LRP TC edition speed control (pre SXX) used to be a good candidate. Since it was redesigned and made smaller, not so much.
Now, that early TC edition speed control lives on as the SPX8 in the indentical case. It is more up to the task than most others. It is 1/10 size but 1/8th capable. I also use it in my open mod electric Touring car for the same reasons. Fewer Thermal shutdowns. You can now gear the car and concentrate on motor temperatures and not be worried about a speed control fire. For only about $20 more you get a much more capable speed control than the SXX.

The Tekin RX8 is actually better for this duty but it is bigger and 1.5 ounces heavier.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-jspro-10-spx8-002.jpg  
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:00 PM   #1424
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Spy Shot (JS Pro 200 kit on a CRC Battle Axe)

This car may be headed to So Cal for superspeeway use. Thought you might want a sneak peek. It came out really nice looking even though some of the parts are used. The car includes:
  • The new Battle Axe rear solid crossplate with improved body post centering and adjustment.
  • Track Attack Carbide Balls
  • Ligntened diff rings.
  • Standard Pod for Super Speedway use (These cars are custom made so you can have yours either with a Standard Pod or Offset Pod.
  • Battle Axe 2.0 chassis for more leftside weight running light one cell packs
  • SRC heavy duty pod bottom plate.
  • Double CRC pod top plate.
  • SRC shortie bumper and install kit.
  • CRC stiff foam bumper.
click that picture one more time for a double size image you can scroll around.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-js-pro-200-battle-axe-002.jpg  
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:41 PM   #1425
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I can't wait to see it if it DOES!

I Really wish I could afford one myself!! HEY if you want to trade a CAR for a YEARS worth of LINKED Banner Ads to Stranahan-RC.com on our SWT web site, LET ME KNOW!!
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