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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 12-24-2009, 07:33 AM
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I have had poor luck with the SXX. One caught on fire. One just quit. I have LRP TC editions of the old model that need service, but now they just return you an SXX. There are still some new models to try. The new Novak Kinetic, The CRC black Diamond, The new LRP SPX 8 1/8th scale that appears to be in the old LRP TC edition case.

Tekin R8
The Tekin Hot wire program is mostly disabled on the R8. The only parts available are sliders on the functions that can be changed with the on-board buttons. Retarding the timing on the Novak Ballistic 3.5 did not help. The speed control would not run this motor at all. I have an X11 3.5 that will probably work with it. The Tekin works really well in the wide pan with an LRP motor. It does not even get hot. Usually it returns to the pits at less than track temp.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-24-2009 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 12-31-2009, 04:23 AM
  #1352  
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Hi Nimo and any other uk racer if you want to race on january 17th give WKRCC a look http://www.wkrcc.co.uk/ it's a one off event we're doing. If we get enough interest in WGT we'll put on more heats which i'll be pleased about. Although i'll be the slow one at the back Have a good new year all and thanks for all your help recently
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Old 12-31-2009, 06:40 AM
  #1353  
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Originally Posted by Rio View Post
Hi Nimo and any other uk racer if you want to race on january 17th give WKRCC a look http://www.wkrcc.co.uk/ it's a one off event we're doing. If we get enough interest in WGT we'll put on more heats which i'll be pleased about. Although i'll be the slow one at the back Have a good new year all and thanks for all your help recently
Your January dates clash with my club so can't make the 17th.

Alse you are running to GT10 rules with WGT tyres, My club runs GT2 and GT3spec rules, and my car is set up for GT2 rules (2s 17.5 - Any Foam), and it will need a lot of changes to get it to GT10 rules
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Old 12-31-2009, 06:50 AM
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Oh ok thats a shame would've been good to see a few heats of WGT running. We do allow 2s 17.5 it's just the spec tyres that would be a problem. Have a good new year and a good seasons racing
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Old 12-31-2009, 06:55 AM
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It will be a great day as we will be laying our biggest ever track filling the whole sports hall.
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Old 12-31-2009, 07:08 AM
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have never raced mine on carpet, so it may not perform either?
What are you calling Spec Tyres?
I think I have some Jaco Lilacs sitting around, but prefer to use the GRP Magenta's outdoors on my track (found too much grip in the pinks making the car nervous to drive).
I may have a look at Feb, and see if I can get others interested.
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Old 12-31-2009, 08:25 AM
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Spec tyres are lilac, jaco or other do the World spec tyre. I'm sure we could sort it out so you can run if you don't have any. The CRC is awesome on carpet a chap called ben winters runs one and it's ballist as do myself, tim and jimbo. I can offer a bit of setup advice for carpet i just need faster thumbs. If you get the chance to give carpet a go you'll love it. Have a good new beer oops new year
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Old 12-31-2009, 08:31 AM
  #1358  
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Car is set up with stiff springs all round, and is geared for a 155ft/45m straight, so i will have fun gearing it down .. lol

I'm looking at maybe Feb 14th meeting, doesn't clash with my club.
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:17 PM
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Guys I have finally trued my tyres down to 54mm but now my ride height is too low do CRC do any front height adjusters smaller than the 3mm?

Thanks
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:23 PM
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I believe a 2 mm spacer is part of the spacer kit. Also, you can use Associated #8 aluminum washers as a 1 mm spacers. At these low heights you start running interference on that outboard suspension mounting screw. You can increase clearance for that screw by using a small patter #4-40 nut and then sanding off the excess screw. You can also remove the rib from the bottom of the A-arm with little effect. If you run arms forward then the interference problem here is increased.

If you pay this no attention your arms will be bowed up, probably unevenly.
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:53 PM
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John,
I'm trying to understand the difference in car dynamics for the inline and the trailing axles. I tried inline axles without any other changes and the steering was increased significantly (traction roll).

Does the trailing axle reduce the effect of caster slightly by reducing the jacking effect of caster (raising the inside wheel slightly countering the lowering due to caster)? If I used inline axles with less caster would I get the same jacking but without the camber gain of the large amount of caster.

I can't imagine that the change in trail has a big impact on RC cars since that would be a reduction of steering effort and self centering while important on 1:1 cars not critical RC due to lack of driver feedback and servo self centering.

Inline axle would have less scrub but I can't see that being significant given that the tire rolls as it's turned and it is not lateral scrub which would be detrimental.

Just trying to understand.
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
I believe a 2 mm spacer is part of the spacer kit. Also, you can use Associated #8 aluminum washers as a 1 mm spacers. At these low heights you start running interference on that outboard suspension mounting screw. You can increase clearance for that screw by using a small patter #4-40 nut and then sanding off the excess screw. You can also remove the rib from the bottom of the A-arm with little effect. If you run arms forward then the interference problem here is increased.

If you pay this no attention your arms will be bowed up, probably unevenly.
John said it all but with a 54mm wheels put on the 5mm molded height raiser and you should be fine

i have 50mm wheels and i have a 3mm mhr= 4mm clearance
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
John said it all but with a 54mm wheels put on the 5mm molded height raiser and you should be fine

i have 50mm wheels and i have a 3mm mhr= 4mm clearance


I have taken out the 2 riser plates to get the ride height down and gone back up with the height spacers. The arm is very close to the screw not quite touching though. Not sure if I should run it without those in will it weaken the chassis?
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:06 PM
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Thanks joey. I will help you move the wrong way as well. I run a lot with the washers as I need a 6 mm height.

Tuner EM-Trailing axles add caster. Much the same as the caster found on a shopping cart caster. Wheel contact patch is behind steering axis contact with the ground. Handling effects are predictable. Less corner entry traction more mid corner traction with trailing axles. As you have found this can produce a gentle corner entry. I prefer this. I don't want to shock the car into the turn and produce any rear slide nor to get traction roll on carpet.

Caster has a jacking effect on the inside front. The inside front of the chassis is jacked up as the wheels turn. This is always so with wheels of any width. On a bicycle it is different and caster causes a drop. This jacking of the inside front is responsible for unloading the overloaded outside front and causing the increased steering at mid corner. Wedge has been added.

As you note the steering effort is not felt. I have suspected, though, that cornering force may make the wheel wobble or break over center causing an abrupt change in steering with inline axles later in the turn. Trailing axles smooth this out as does reactive caster.

Others prefer the inline axle. As far as I know I was first to discuss the simple effect of this change on caster on this site.

I tend not to use the trailing axle setting on the CRC front end. It just seems too much. This larger, than Associated, setting was caused by the need to use larger diameter axles when using aluminum axles.

On my custom front ends I still like the Associated style trailing axle.



Tim-Put the riser plates back in. You need the stiffness. Running just two aluminum screws will cause them to shear off on occasion in a crash. Run two steel screws and nuts inboard instead and protect the hole shape. Then, the outboard screw can be removed. This will add a tiny bit of flex.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-04-2010 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:15 PM
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Ok John thanks for the advise. This will mean my ride height will go back down but I'll have to try and get some different spacers.
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