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Old 10-07-2009, 08:15 PM   #1231
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Quante-Sweet!!! CAD to prototype, exciting times. You need a view that shows the panhard bar. Maybe from the back quarter view with the motor out.

hippie-I'll leave you in Shawn's capable hands.
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:29 PM   #1232
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Originally Posted by hippie View Post
I was looking at the FR end of my GEN x 10 & noticed there are 3 possible width adjustment's i can make . The car was set up in the middle postion when i got it . I would like to know what the advantages or dis adavantages of going wider or narrower ?. This car will be raced on carpet only .
I have good feedback that it should basically be:

Low traction carpet track = narrow (raw track, no line in groove)

Medium traction carpet track = middle (average traction, gray line in groove)

High traction carpet track = wide (IIC level traction, black lines in groove). Also use stiffener braces.

Watch front wheelwell body clearances when using the wide position.

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Old 10-08-2009, 12:46 AM   #1233
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Thanks for the posts guys.


Battle Axe 2.0, Offset Pod Conversion Experiments

I posted previously that I did not think I needed an offset pod when running 2S LiPo on the Battle Axe 2.0. It has come to my attention from a friend down under, that when running 1 cell with its 2 ounce lighter minimum weight that it may be a problem getting sufficient left rear preload with mod motors. We are looking into the situation. An offset pod may be possible. It would consists of a new bottom plate and top plate plus the relevant axle and hubs. Anyway if you are having a similar problem give us a post. The goal here would be more left rear preload without using as much left rear downtweak from the right rear spring. Excess right front tire loading would be avoided.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:48 PM   #1234
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Idd John, nice to see a CAD design come together without a hitch.
(when you do something for yourself its allways "first time right"; at work its the same motto but not allways the same result )

Here's some pictures of the panhard bar, for me to take out the motor I need to disassemble the rear because of the old CRC plates. I'll work on that in the future.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-p1010970.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-p1010971.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-p1010973.jpg  
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:40 PM   #1235
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thank's for the repliy shawn.

I will be running this in WGT 200mm class. this will be my first time with the car . The first race is in november . were would you recomend starting ?.

If the body you are going to run clears the wheels properly, then I would leave the car setup the way the previous owner had it. Get some laps under your belt, then you can start playing with the setup.

Shawn.
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Old 10-09-2009, 03:48 PM   #1236
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Are these new CRC parts worth getting or not really ?.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Side-Links-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ng-Retainers-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Center-Pivot
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Old 10-09-2009, 04:12 PM   #1237
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I put all 3 items on my car at the same time, it changed the fairly stable rear end in to a solid feel rear end, and allowed me to dial some front end back in to the car. It also allows you to use a slightly harder compound rear for the same grip as it previously had. And this is running with the PF Corvette shell outdoors.
It is also much more stable over the bumps with the longer side arms (less rear hop out).
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Old 10-09-2009, 05:49 PM   #1238
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John

Are your nerf wings desinged to allow the use of these ?.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Side-Links-2
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:42 PM   #1239
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I currently use the first and third items. Both deemed as improvements by me. Wouldn't change back to the originals. Will eventually get to putting on the side spring retainers...lazy!

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Old 10-10-2009, 06:56 AM   #1240
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The Nerf wings do not allow the use of the long side links. I found pod durability problems when I used the stiff new side links. They ripped out the front corner of the holes. I designed the nerf wings to use the original side links. My rebuttal is that I like long links generally. They reduce unwanted movement of the pod. One is the fact the pod is sucked toward the frame when the car rolls. Usually there is enough slack to prevent any binding. My 3-links suspensions use long links for these reasons.

I like the center pivot as it tidies up the car over a hand sanded football. Performance is the same.

Dirk-Thanks for the Panhard Bar views. I wanted others to know it was there.

Battle Axe 2.0 Buildup tips
My recent posts on the Battle Axe 2.0 buildup are assembled into one page here.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/BattleAxe.html
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-10-2009 at 07:44 AM.
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:43 PM   #1241
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thank's BILL

John so what would be better, your nerf wing or the longer link's ?.
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:47 PM   #1242
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so what would be best is to add the Nerf wings first, then add the 3-link at a later date when its available. The links are longer still on the 3-link, and there is no "short" highly stressed, center ball to limit the car. The freeness of the 3-link pod is hard to describe. When you assemble one and get it to the point just before you add the shocks you will really feel the difference in suppleness even in your hands.
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Old 10-11-2009, 06:24 AM   #1243
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anyone have an idea how to fix a bigger ballcup to the original (longer) crc damper tube?

I want to use ball studs with a longer thread as the original has very shorth thread lenght and it barely comes out underneath. I can't put a nut onto it. The problem is that the ballstuds which are longer are also a little bigger (the head is 4.1mm instead of 3.9mm) and have a thicker neck.

So i want to put some bigger ballcups unto the old style dampertubes but i can't do that cause it has a 2-56 set screw to hold the ballcup and the new ballcup needs 4-40 screws .


Anyone some ideas or know a product that has a 2-56 threads but has a bigger ballcup?
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:13 AM   #1244
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Not quite what you asked for, but you could try this. Losi Mini T ball cups (they are long enough) and Losi Mini T ball studs. The short ballstuds are long enough but come in a package of 10 or so. The fit of the cup on the allen screw is good.
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:34 AM   #1245
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thanks!!

You mean these?
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB1049

and
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB1052


edit:
Do you know if the threads are 4mm long or so?
i need ball studs that are roughly 4 mm or longer as the carbon where they go through is 2.5mm. I need the extra lenght to get the nut on.

edit 2:
I tried a short cup of the losi mini t shocks and they fit the 2-56 set screw so will get the longer ones. Only searching for longer threaded ball studs now.

Last edited by 2wdrive; 10-11-2009 at 09:31 AM.
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