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Old 09-21-2009, 11:49 AM   #1201
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Default hardness tires Gen-X10

hello,
Is anybody can tell me with certainty the hardness (shore) tires "CRC World GT spec 1/10 " front and rear #2300/2302 ?
thank you in advance.
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:55 PM   #1202
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Default broken chassis

has anyone had their chassis break across the rear mounting holes, where you bolt down the lower arm plate to the chassis, both sides are severly cracked and the top of the carbon fiber is seperating

kind of wierd I have seen a few others break at the bumper mount but not where my has LOL I know I have not wadded it up LOL

is there a possibality of it happening due to chassis flex? is that wht the brace is for??

thanks for the help
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:01 PM   #1203
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Casey-Those holes take some abuse when you tap the front corner of the car. You will have the best luck by replacing the aluminum screws with steel and a steel nut. This will let you tighten the crap out of the screws and the movement which tears up the chassis at the holes will stop.

pol59. I dont have a shore meter anyone?

Lieb2-Doesn't your track have one?
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:15 PM   #1204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Lieb2-Doesn't your track have one?
Don't have a home track anymore. Guess I have to find one out of state. LOL
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:41 PM   #1205
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[QUOTE=John Stranahan;6374442]Casey-Those holes take some abuse when you tap the front corner of the car. You will have the best luck by replacing the aluminum screws with steel and a steel nut. This will let you tighten the crap out of the screws and the movement which tears up the chassis at the holes will stop.


Thanks John makes sense for the most part the Flappers we use on the track and I don't get along LOL

I'm going to put the stainless screw lit in once I get a new chassis
thanks for the info!!!!
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Old 09-21-2009, 08:22 PM   #1206
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Originally Posted by pol59 View Post
hello,
Is anybody can tell me with certainty the hardness (shore) tires "CRC World GT spec 1/10 " front and rear #2300/2302 ?
thank you in advance.
Jaco seems to put them right around 38 shore.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:20 AM   #1207
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Hippie-Nice.

The center spring will help load the front end to some degree. A heavier spring will provide slightly more steering. The effect is very slight.

Put heavier tweak springs and go with thicker side dampener fluid to help the rear rotate more. This is also helped if you make the front end steer harder. A little more caster, softer front springs.
Would a smaller tire diameter help this as well? I ran the tires out of the package, 60.6mm?? I think it would.
Also, how do you know when your diff it set perfect? What ive been doing it setting it so it doesnt slip on the track. Thanks for the help
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:24 AM   #1208
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Smaller tires will help a little.

On the diff. I grab the left wheel and the spur with the left hand. Now try and rotate the right wheel. It should not except with a lot of torque.
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Old 09-25-2009, 11:21 AM   #1209
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We have had some rain. Progress on the Web site continues. Here are some new pages added recently. The 3-link page was completed recently. The full assembly instructions will outline what is involved if you decide on a change later. Some setup tips are also included. I only await graphite at this point. Expect a new product announcement soon.


Dual A-arm Installation 200 mm Pan or Oval Car
This topic is just completed.

3-link Installations 200 mm and wide Pan Car
This topic was 4\5ths complete previously

Making a Drilling Jig, Jig Boring
This page is just completed.
This topic may be of interest as this is the tool, I plan to use to prep Gen X-10 chassis, for the 200 mm version of the Dual A-arm Front end. The topic oulines the building of the drilling jig. This jig is for use in my shop only. The front end install for wide pan cars requires no new holes be drilled. The chassis ears must be removed, however.
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:07 PM   #1210
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Tekin R8 and the Wide Pan and the 3.5
The saga continues
Track Test, 94 F Track temp 126F, traction high.

We just finished a Nitro race today and had a couple of hours left for testing. This is a good time to do high temperature testing as the traction is high along with the amp draw. I had previously run an LRP 4.0 with this speed control. This motor was the most powerful that the normaly very good speed controls would handle on the new asphalt reliably. Speed control and motor temps were satisfactory. Now I put on the 3.5 with good traction. First I geared it 90/12 which is normal for my 3.5 work. Motor temp 150, Speed control temp 108F after a good hard 5 minute run. I had slightly too much acceleration and not quite enough top speed. I geared up to 93/13 (about a 1/2 tooth change). Nice. The car was more controllable. The motor temp was 155F after 5 minutes. The speed control same as before. It has never gone over 115F. I am quite please and ready to highly recommend this combination for hot weather use: Tekin R8, LRP 3.5, Thunder Power 5000 Ma-h (tests at 5400 mA-h). Note that this LRP has a homemade internal fan and has a small scoop blowing air on the terminal end from above the body. There are no fans. Speed Passion is the only other motor I have seen with an internal fan. The Fan for the Novak from Integy was a disaster. It produced little air flow and had poor armature balance.

The car was fast as hell today. Looked every bit as fast as the 1/8 scales that had just finished racing. Three winners in that power combo. I think I will put the R8 on my touring car as well. I had one thermal shutdown in the TC at 5:45 seconds last session.

I did obtain the Tekin Hotwire. I did not use it however as someone mentioned more heat. That is the last thing I want. I will use it eventually for software uptdates.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:02 PM   #1211
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Battle Axe 2.0

I have in hand now the latest edition Battle Axe 2.0. First up is a buildup emphasizing strength so that it will finish four heats without problems. You can then concentrate on setup.

First I will mention a few of the new features as they are exposed in this buildup photo sequence which commences below. The pod is a new lighter weight design offering a minimal left side plate. Yes this will add a bit more flex, but this flex may be beneficial, as sometimes more chassis flex is beneficial. The bottom plate is widened and gusseted on the left side to compensate somewhat for the lack of left side plate material. I like this. The pod and bottom plate are identical to the Gen X 10 now so the parts are interchangeable. The HD bottom pod plate from SRC will fit. Motor wire clearance is of course outstanding. Note also the new molded center pivot plastic that does not require sanding any more. This is nice indeed.

Take some extra care in assembly here. What I do, is assemble the chassis to the pod. First assemble everything as instructed. Tighten the screws that secure the center pivot plastic only enough to get no play on the pivot ball. Tighten the nuts that secure the center pivot plastic to the frame last while it is resting on a flat surface. This will insure alighnment. Lift the back of the pod up. It should fall from gravity alone. Loosen things until it will.

Now realize, the small portion of the buildup in the picture will more or less control the events of the first four heats. A very common problem at my track is loss of screws and then the parts they secure on our track. This will put you out of commission for the whole race unless you have stocked suitable spares. Usually this is not the case. Level I, Back off each screw that goes into the pod or side link screws one at a time a couple of turns. Wipe in some blue Loctite under the head of the screws. Retighten. This will hold the screw tight by holding the head and the small portion of the shaft between the head and the female threaded hole. The screw will be easy to remove. (Level II, which is what I do, replace all these screws that attach parts to the pod, center pivot, or side links with black oxide alloy steel screws. Use the same blue Loctite method, but you can be a little more liberal. I also use thin washer above the graphite to strengthen the ball pivots base. This will prevent punch through in a violent crash.)

There is another little mod shown which will help you finish. A lot of the oval cars that our guys witnessed at the Carpet Nats had a centered perpendicular wrap of strapping tape. This does a lot better job of preventing the battery from ejecting in a crash than a single longitudinal wrap. Battery ejection is always a DNF (did not finish.) I made a pattern of the battery tape slot on masking tape. I taped this to the center of the battery support, inboard. I drilled two holes on the end, cut the slot with a diamond blade and finished it with a needle point diamond tip in the Dremel. It came out nice. I would like CRC to add this mod and will request so here again.

I plan to test the car with 2SLiPo/17.5 on our new asphalt. Exiting times to come.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-battle-axe-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-battle-axe-pod-002.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-28-2009 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:11 PM   #1212
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it look like now i have to get my oval car done
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:46 PM   #1213
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You are going to run oval, then?
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Old 09-28-2009, 10:29 PM   #1214
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Battle Axe 2.0 continued

Here is the assembly a little further along. Unlike the Gen X 10. The battle axe has two CRC side shocks with fairly stiff springs instead of dampeners and side springs. These will be loaded unevenly in the final setup to get our perfect handling. We will preload the left rear wheel by compressing the spring on the right hand side shock. I used a steel Losi ball nut on the center shock back end as this shock takes some abuse outdoors. I assembled the axle and the diff with no problems. Problem of the stud pulling out corrected. Another problem has crept up however. The left hand hub will not tighten onto the axle on several recent hubs with normal torque on the two hub pinch bolts. The problem is the slot is not cut deep enough into the hub. I deepened the hubs slot with an X-Acto saw to correct the problem. The hub should look like this.

Other new items to note. A nice left side Nerf wing. An optional foam bumper is available for this. An optional foam bumper is also available up front. I plan to fit an SRC shortie bumper and the CRC stiff foam front bumper.

The center shock and spring are the very nice model from the Losi JRXS. No problems there.

I put on a tiny 60 tooth 48 pitch spur anticipating tall gears with a stock motor on 2s LiPo outdoors.

I like a Nylock nut tightening the diff. Associated TC3 wheel nut. Hyperdrive has a set in red available from lefthander-rc.com. The setting stays put using this type of nut. I also like carbide balls inside the diff. They stay oh so smooth and last years. It is worth the initial cost. Track Attack or Acer racing. Associated if you only need eight as here.

Note this rear axle and pod is identical to the GenX10. There is no left pod offset. I ran my 3-link with out pod offset as well with good results on the oval.

Dick-I am planning on it. I need a sparring partner.

Adamge- I plan on doing some serious testing on the clock. I may not be racing but may be sparring with a couple of guys. Dick is going to snowbirds. I need to find out the behavior of the car with the lower powered equipment. I expect some stark differences on corner exit which will explain some setup differences noted in the thread. Things to look at.

Left side downtweak or preload
right front or left front offset (which will produce rear steer)
roll steer by elevating the front of the side links.
Rear tire hardness
Wing type
I expect the rest of the adjustments to fall in place similar to what I used with 13.5 four cell and 13.5 2S LiPo (the last I ran).
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-battle-axe-2.0-shocks.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-28-2009 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:52 AM   #1215
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You must have got a better batch of shocks from Losi. The threaded adjuster on the 3 cars that I have seen are so loose that they will slide when you put preload on them.
The losi shock also seemed a little short and I could not get 5+ deg of droop with the stock setup.

Ended up using a AE TC3 shock from darkside. Use a RPM rod end cut to .650 to attach to the top plate. This fit a lot better and does not have the slop that the losi shock has after you remove it once or twice to change springs.

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