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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 09-07-2009, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
I ran into a space issue with the lower a-arm. This one didn't work for me.

I was thinking about the problem you are having with steering. Sounds like it could be caster issue. How do you have your front end setup? ie which caster blocks, where are the washers. etc.


Shawn.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
I was thinking about the problem you are having with steering. Sounds like it could be caster issue. How do you have your front end setup? ie which caster blocks, where are the washers. etc.


Shawn.
I'm running the 5* blocks, 5mm spacer to get ride height at 4mm front. I could try mounting the servo higher to get clearance and a better throw.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:48 PM
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Its not pretty, but the servo is now mounted bottom hole on the servo to the top hole on the servo mount. If I had to draw a line through the steering system, its almost a straight line from end to end. No more tie rod bind on the a arm and the ends are mounted on the back side of the servo saver. It looks odd, but I'll test it on the carpet this week.
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Old 09-08-2009, 10:03 AM
  #1159  
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nice pics, thanks

interesting to mount the battery all the way back
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:08 AM
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Have noticed a couple of posts about mounting up an additional 5th body post. I have not personally done this myself but was wondering if it would make any difference at stock speeds (13.5 1c lipo) running on a short carpet tracks (65ft straight).

How do you mount the 5th body post to the CRC chassis. Can anyone share some pictures that has done this before?
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
I'm running the 5* blocks, 5mm spacer to get ride height at 4mm front. I could try mounting the servo higher to get clearance and a better throw.
When I first built my genx-10, I had issue with the tie rod clearing, but I realized I had actually put the arms on upside down.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
When I first built my genx-10, I had issue with the tie rod clearing, but I realized I had actually put the arms on upside down.
Definitely something else to check. I'll take a look.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:27 PM
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I just got my thunder power lipo today . There is a .25 inch gap between the lipo & top plate . Are you guys cutting the stand offs or just using foam to take up the gap ?.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hippie View Post
I just got my thunder power lipo today . There is a .25 inch gap between the lipo & top plate . Are you guys cutting the stand offs or just using foam to take up the gap ?.
Our track is going all lipo sack, so I taped the battery to the tray with 2 small pieces of servo tape, on front and one in back, maybe 1/4" wide. I put the tray with battery attached in the lipo sack to charge.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Our track is going all lipo sack, so I taped the battery to the tray with 2 small pieces of servo tape, on front and one in back, maybe 1/4" wide. I put the tray with battery attached in the lipo sack to charge.

That does'nt really answer my ? My ? is there is a .25 inch GAP between the top plate & the top of the lipo . Are you guys cutting the 4 stand off's or using foam to take up the space between the lipo & top plate ?.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by hippie View Post
That does'nt really answer my ? My ? is there is a .25 inch GAP between the top plate & the top of the lipo . Are you guys cutting the 4 stand off's or using foam to take up the space between the lipo & top plate ?.
I'm leaving the gap for now. I'd like to try the shorter stand offs at some point and save the longer ones just in case I end going back to 2S. It would only take a couple minutes to swap them out.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
I'm leaving the gap for now. I'd like to try the shorter stand offs at some point and save the longer ones just in case I end going back to 2S. It would only take a couple minutes to swap them out.

Do you have a part # for the shorter stand off's ?
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by hippie View Post
Do you have a part # for the shorter stand off's ?
CRC doesn't have on specifically, but a 4-40 threaded, 3/8" tall aluminum standoff should work. I've found them on the internet, but haven't stopped by Fastenall or Ace Hardware to see what they have in stock.

http://www.parallax.com/Store/Compon...Search=PWM+PAL
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
CRC doesn't have on specifically, but a 4-40 threaded, 3/8" tall aluminum standoff should work. I've found them on the internet, but haven't stopped by Fastenall or Ace Hardware to see what they have in stock.

http://www.parallax.com/Store/Compon...Search=PWM+PAL
Cool Thank's for the help .
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Old 09-10-2009, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Its not pretty, but the servo is now mounted bottom hole on the servo to the top hole on the servo mount. If I had to draw a line through the steering system, its almost a straight line from end to end. No more tie rod bind on the a arm and the ends are mounted on the back side of the servo saver. It looks odd, but I'll test it on the carpet this week.
instead of moving your servo around, I noticed that you have the links attached to the front of the servo saver. Move them to the rear of the servo saver, this will straighten them out as well. You may have a small clearance issue with the lower a-arms, but nothing a pocket knife cant solve.

Where are your washers on the front end? I run 2 back and 1 front.

Shawn.
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