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Old 09-02-2009, 12:40 AM   #1141
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I put new bearings in a new GRP front wheel. The fit is tight. I used a large allen driver through the bearing and forced the bearing in using the drivers handle. I assembled it on the kits new axle. It slides in and kind of catches before the second bearing is engaged. If you look at the back of the axle though you see the axle is not fully inserted. I continued and the fit is fine. The shoulder on the axle measure .450 inch. If you have that problem, and your axles are shorter than this then they are defective. E-mail for some new ones. 1/2 to 3/4 mm short is not a problem. It is intentional to fit the variety of wheels without side play.
Ah ok, personaly i always use a 1/4 inch nut driver that is roughly the same size as the outer flang, so i push the bearing in the wheel using the nut driver on the flang.

Sometimes you need to put some force on the bearing to get in and i am afraid when using something through the inner part of the bearing that i might couse some damage to the bearing balls and or the walls inside as they are not design for those kinds of loads. It might be ok but still, better be sure then sorry.....

anyway, it seems everyone using a crc front end is doing fine with it apparantly so i am sure it will be ok.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:44 AM   #1142
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The large flat handle face pushes the bearing in. The allen drive shaft fits through the fingers. You can apply huge pressure without fear of being stabbed or the tool slipping off. No pressure on the balls.
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Old 09-02-2009, 01:18 AM   #1143
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I am using HUDDY allen drivers. I just tried it. When i am inserting the HUDY allen driver through the bearing it sits towards the handle.

The beginning of the hudy handle is not totally flat. It starts out just a little bit flat and then goes at an angle backwards. That little bit of flat part is as big as the bearing innerpiece ( where the axle goes through). When using force i am putting all the force on the inner piece.

It might be that other kinds of allen drivers have a bigger flat spot so they support the whole bearing including the flang? if so then your method is indeed a lot easier then mine.

Just curious that is all
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:53 AM   #1144
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I made up a bearing installer, drilled a hole in a pc of aluminum rod for a 3/16 od pc of brass tubing, then started another hole that was about the same size as the ID of the outer race. Then glued a short pc of brass tubing into the 3/16 hole.

This way you only push on the outside race, but still center on the inner race. I also made a 2nd one and threaded for a 4-40 all thread. That way you can do both sides at once and they are concentric with each other.

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Old 09-02-2009, 07:43 PM   #1145
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I carefully use a body reamer to open up the likely too small hole.
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:56 PM   #1146
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Thanks for the posts guys.

Tire truing adaptor for 1/12, 1/10, and TC
Below are pics of a couple of CRC Tools. The first is the tire truing adaptor, CRC Truall 12,10,TC Adaptor. I was able to examine one today. It is very nicely finished and is one of the few that will do both 1/12 pan, 1/10 pan and Touring Car foams with the included hex adaptor. It fits the 8 mm shaft common on tire truing machines. The second tool is available from several companies. This one is called a (steel) ball popper and is black oxide coated steel with knurled handles. It is used to pop those pivot balls in and out of the lower CRC Pro Strut Arm as well as the upper Associated Upper A-arm Pivots. This last tool is a must have for your pan car kit.

A use report on the Bronze Pivot Ball
I have had these on the World GT car for about 3 months now. The kingpins still slide very smoothly. I have had no need to dissasemble them in this long time period. I have had to adjust the upper pivot ball tension. I ground an old screwdriver just to fit that little plastic tension ring that is used to adjus the upper pivot ball play. (This screwdriver aids the first installation as well.)
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-1-crc-tire-truing-arbor-1-12-1-10-tc.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-2-crc-ball-popper.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-bronze-ball-pivots-2-.jpg  
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:36 AM   #1147
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I just got that arbor, man it is quality! Fits my Hudy Ultimate truer perfectly
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Old 09-03-2009, 11:59 PM   #1148
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Jay-Thanks for the use report. Those are always the best.

Custom Spring
I searched quite a few spring companies for a stock spring for the dual A-arm front end. I could not find the length I wanted. Finally I requested a quote on custom springs. They would have been $9 each my cost. 30 of this size spring would have been $270. Gasp. Instead a cheaper way to go was to get a spring winding machine. Here is my first coil compression spring. I am satisfied. Now to fine tune the machine to get the diameter I want. It is slightly oversize. You turn down the arbor to make it smaller. The material is stainless steel spring wire.

Second spring. Arbor turned down. Right on spec, .375 ID, four free coils. Note the left side has a closed end that appears to have a gap from the lighting. There is no gap. Both ends are closed. The satin finish looks nice. I will test a pair on the wide pan soon.
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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-custom-spring.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-custom-spring-001.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-04-2009 at 01:25 AM.
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Old 09-04-2009, 06:40 AM   #1149
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Taking orders?

The 18T guys might be interested and i think i'd like a set for that Legends project i've been working on.

Looks great!
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:41 AM   #1150
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Pejota-I have used considerably stiffer wire than the RC18T guys could use. At least I think so. Anyway, yes, I will be accepting orders. I have 4 wire sizes in stock. I will need a couple of weeks of testing before I have a supply. These are for the Dual Arm front end which has highly angled shocks.
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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-gen-x-10-dual-arm-front-end-002.jpg  
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:19 AM   #1151
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Pictures of the World GT 2009 spec car (as the World GT rules stand):
CRC GenX 10
Lilac tires
13.5 motor
1S battery
Regulation body

Battery is the SMC 4900 with a TQ Booster for electronics.
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:01 PM   #1152
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Sweet Ride!. Very neat. Only have one question. have your tried the Ackerman setting of ballstuds going back from the servo saver for a sraighter run of the steering links out.
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Old 09-06-2009, 12:22 AM   #1153
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Sweet Ride!. Very neat. Only have one question. have your tried the Ackerman setting of ballstuds going back from the servo saver for a sraighter run of the steering links out.
Thanks! No, I need to try that. My initial turn in is great but fades as the radius increases. I'll give it a shot.
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:45 PM   #1154
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Hi John

Im thinking about getting a set of your nerf bars . How much is shipping to largo fl 33771 & do you take PP ?. thank's .
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Old 09-07-2009, 03:27 PM   #1155
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Thanks! No, I need to try that. My initial turn in is great but fades as the radius increases. I'll give it a shot.
I ran into a space issue with the lower a-arm. This one didn't work for me.
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