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Old 08-20-2009, 03:18 PM   #1096
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my rs-pro fit's it BUT the posts are too tall, I was thinking or grinding the back of the top plate alittle, so the pod doesn't hit the post's, and run it there
Why not just grind the post down on the rs-pro?

I added 3.5mm female bullet connectors on my mamba max for clearance issues in some of my setups. Might work in a crc as well.



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Old 08-20-2009, 10:17 PM   #1097
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For those off you using the crc center esc mount . what esc's have you found that fit under the top plate ?.
I minimized the top deck by dremeling away a good deal of carbon fiber so that it is only an "X". Will fit just about any ESC this way. Then, chopped down the four standoff posts to have the top deck actually hold the 1S pack in place.

Here is another one of my previously posted pics. My SPX has the wire connections facing to the right side of the car. The wires clear the center shocks nicely and I have easy access to the ESCs buttons facing the other direction.

My small Spektrum 3100 Receiver and Novak Booster are on the left side of the car to balance things. No need for weights and car is down to minimum weight with small tires. All ready for the IIC in a couple weeks.

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Old 08-20-2009, 10:37 PM   #1098
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I minimized the top deck by dremeling away a good deal of carbon fiber so that it is only an "X". Will fit just about any ESC this way. Then, chopped down the four standoff posts to have the top deck actually hold the 1S pack in place.

Here is another one of my previously posted pics. My SPX has the wire connections facing to the right side of the car. The wires clear the center shocks nicely and I have easy access to the ESCs buttons facing the other direction.

My small Spektrum 3100 Receiver and Novak Booster are on the left side of the car to balance things. No need for weights and car is down to minimum weight with small tires. All ready for the IIC in a couple weeks.

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HI BILL

Thats a great idea . I dont know why i did'nt think of that eairler . I will be able to use any esc if i do that .
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:57 AM   #1099
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HI BILL

Thats a great idea . I dont know why i did'nt think of that eairler . I will be able to use any esc if i do that .
I do have my moments...
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:59 AM   #1100
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I'm going to try John's electronicspositioning on the nerf bars once my parts arrive. I'm thinking I'll tape in my 1S battery using the 6 cell tray, as the SMC has the bumps on the bottom, towards the back to get maximum weight on the rear tires. I can always adjust the front end for steering input.
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Old 08-22-2009, 10:34 PM   #1101
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Thanks for the posts guys. I have not been getting email notices so I thought we were going through a dry spell.

Wide Pan Car News
The faster the car (and the driver) gets the more I get thermalling problem. This car is the fastest accelerating thing on the straight at Mikes and reaches the highest top speeds. It will advance about 20 feet on a 1/10 scale Nitro over the straight and the sweeper with medium traction. A very good Nitro driver posted "it is frightening how fast your pan car advanced on me (on the straight and) at the end of the sweeper." The car corners great as well. With good traction it just plain whips everything in site. Now how to keep it running for 5 minutes. The thunderpower 40 C 5300 hard side pack did wonders. The battery is only about 122 F after a run and has no bloating. The old Novak HV 3.5, the most powerful 3.5 I have tested seems to work fine. With the extremely hot Thunderpower I gear it down some to 93/12 I have long been running 90/12 on the old track. I tinkered with taller gears that made the car ballistic but the speed cotrol although quite cool on the outside from the cooling air scoop fatigued internally from high internal temps. It finally started to thermal and then died. The thunderpower is so good the speed control is now thermalling again. The car is that much quicker with this battery. Next to try on the list is a Tekin R8 eight scale speed control. The off-road guys have good luck with it anyway. It will be here soon.

Anyway some crass commercialism now at a new Web site www.Stranahan-RC.com .Nothing is for sale and the business is only a concept at this time. Most people interested in suspension upgrades want to know the price. Well I have worked as hard as possible considering my very small business size and lack of access to Hobby parts wholesalers. One thing I have conceived of is offered the complete suspensions at a 15% discount and then also offered them as a package deal where you can select only the parts you need. For example there is no need to buy a second set of Nerf wings. You may have a set of RC18T front shocks in the closet that can be robbed. Anyway building these pages was troubling to say the least, but the software was chosen to make it possible and it came out nice. Give these two pages a work out if you like to see what the cost will be for a 3-link rear end or a dual dynamic A-arm front end. The shopping cart is disabled for your safety at this time.

I thought those package deals were trick and might be fun to play with the calculator on the page. Use the update price button after selecting the items you must have.

You must supply a Gen X 10 or another brand of pan car to use these kits. I priced the extra parts you would need to build a complete car from scratch and it was the same as buying a new Gen X 10 and the kits. If you get both ends you will have a Hatzenbach killer for sure. Note that these kits can be adapted to a variety of oval, velodrome, and road cars as the pictures in this thread show. I will have the few drills and countersinks and a template or measurements available.



3 Link Rear End for 200 mm Gen X 10
http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Catalog_i11118259.html?catId=362564

Dual A-arm front end for 200 mm, Gen X 10
http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Catalog_i11118264.html?catId=362564

Other Suspension Package Deals
http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Catalog_c362564.html

last pic: Spy shot, and there they are $1000s of dollars worth of tiny parts.
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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-gen-x-10-dual-arm-front-end-006.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-next-generation-3-link-wide-pan-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-suspension-kits.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-22-2009 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 08-22-2009, 10:44 PM   #1102
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Good luck John and anyone who is interested should jump at any product offerings he has. He has earned that respect on these forums
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:37 PM   #1103
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Nice site John. I'll get some parts from you later on.

The RX8 is one bad ESC. I prefer it over the Mamba Monster in my applications. The RX8 can run a 2.5T motor on 3S, with the help of some additional caps! I have two and push them hard in my cars.
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Old 08-23-2009, 05:57 PM   #1104
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I got my esc . I got a great deal on a NIB 4 cell GTB. I bought it from a member here on rctech . I still need to get the novak stepup module . This is a small esc & should fit no problem . Plus another thing i really like is all the motor & power wires are on the same side of the esc . This will make routing the wires a lot cleaner & eaiser .
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPYT2&P=7

Last edited by hippie; 08-23-2009 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:11 PM   #1105
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I put my nerf bars on today and the body just covers them. I couldn't have asked for a better fit. I only used the 3 mounting holes and did not drill the 4th and countersink it yet. I did not use shims on the outer holes. Right now it appears there is enough clearance or I'd get body rub anyway. I will be testing, hopefully Saturday, for clearance.
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Old 08-26-2009, 04:53 PM   #1106
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I got my 4 cell gtb mounted today & it's a great fit . But i have a ? about spur size . The car came with a 64p 100t spur . With this spur the biggest pinion that will fit is a 28t pinion . So i was wondering what is the most commen size spur's used with this car ?. I will be running a speed passion 13.5 & it will be ran on carpet if that makes a difference .
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:23 PM   #1107
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John,
Do you have any video of this thing running? i woild love to see a nitro car getting dusted by a modern, well sorted electric.
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Old 08-27-2009, 01:53 AM   #1108
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Hippie- first determine what is limiting the motors forward movement in the pod when adjusting gear lash. You may need to file the excess graphite around that forward screw on the motor plate to make the big opening in the pod bottom plate more square. In a good setup the motor will slide forward enough to hit the center pivot standoff that supports the end of the top plate. Some more things to do to assure this is beveling the center pivot plastic with a dremel sanding drum. bevel the forward edge of the inside of the big hole in the pod bottom plate. See if this lets you use enough pinion. If not maybe a smaller spur is available. I have run 4 cell 13.5 in a variety of pan cars and not had trouble putting enough gear on it.

oldpancardude. Actually I do have video of of a narrow and wide pan car running on my home track against a nitro and an electric TC. I have web space now that I pay for maybe my posting will be more permanent. I will try to post a link in a day or two.

Thanks for the Nerfwing report. Progress on the www.Stranahan-rc.com web site continues. Mostly complete now. I still need graphite parts to be able to sell kits. Take a peek.

World GT Petite Le Mans Edition Novak 10.5, Orion 3800 2s LiPo

Well lessons were learned in the first race and in my last practice session. For practice this last weekend I threw on an LRP 4.0. I ended up geared at 14/87. Top speed was in the 60's. Alas the car had some problems and a 10.5 powered car was running faster laps although my speed on the straight was spectacular. The car was sloppy. I did not have enough steering. Acceleration up to 30 feet had a lot of tire slip, then the big wing kicks in and the car really accelerates. This is typical of pan car rear ends and is what I reported early in the Pantoura thread.

I resolved some of these problems with adjustments but got rained out. Today I was able to try the car again, but put it back to a 10.5. It is better than it has ever been. I will report the changes. First I changed tires to spec fronts from purples. This gave me the steering I needed, I stiffened the center spring to a red 3 coil .057 wire diameter TC3 spring from a blue spring. This kept the front edge of the pod off the ground. I stiffened the rear side springs to red. To fix the sloppiness. I stiffened the front air dam with a pair of angled Lexan brace that tape on under the hood behind the center body post. The dam was rubbing the ground and flopping up and down on brakes and bumps. It was touching even at 6 mm height.
After driving the car for a few months, going to spec fronts from purple fronts, did not disrupt things at all. I got no mid corner spins. I reported this good combination on my wide pan on the old surface in this thread. Spec fronts and rears. I simply had all the steering I needed. Speed through a chicane was also very good. No rear end looseness. I am using a generous 6 degrees of caster but I am also using inline axles which reduce caster over the trailing axles I normally use at 4 degrees. I was very pleased. Ready for another race or 4.0 test session. I did not need reactive caster from the 5 degree uprights. I put an integy fan highly modified on the motor. One racer killed two armatures on race day by melting the glue that holds the magnet on. I confess I did this in practice once while determining the correct gear. I am running a 3.28 ratio now. I removed the trim ring. I cut two layers off the integy cooler to make the cooler fit the center section only. I rebent it for a tight fit. I used a new product by novak, Heat transfer paste (used on transitor heat sinks for a long number of years). Finally we have a dinky tube of it to put on our motor heat sinks. (Pics to come)

Brand New Gen X 10
I have a brand new Gen X 10 in hand. There have been some changes to the pod that were advertized by way of the battle axe. The left side plate is shorter a la some oval cars that I have tested and shown pictures in this thread. Superior Spectre and Woods Racing. I'll post some pics as I assemble it. It is going to be a photo model for my new suspension kits. The bottom pod plate will now require an extra hole on the left side to be compatible with the new car. I will add this mod to our heavy duty pod bottom plate.

Pics.1 Narrowed Integy cooling fan/heasink. Pic 2. I removed fins at the rear and bent a set down to accomodate the gears we use withe the 10.5. With the 4.5 the fins had clearance. You can also see one narrow strip that I cut off could be used to jam the heatsink in the motor opening to prevent rotation which will cause rubbing.
Pic 3 Novaks heat control paste. The motor was now 130 F after an 8 minute run instead of 180 F. It was a little cooler day though.

John
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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-heat-control-gen-x-10-petite-le-mans-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-heat-control-gen-x-10-petite-le-mans-002.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-heat-control-gen-x-10-petite-le-mans-005.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-27-2009 at 02:16 AM.
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Old 08-27-2009, 03:43 AM   #1109
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OK here is my first attempt at videos on the new web space. It may take minutes or hours before these links actually work. Maybe in the morning. Oh wait it is morning. These are all short videos to limit file size. The first and last video were working at 5:22 AM


www.Stranahan-rc.com/Pantoura_vs_Nitro.wmv

At this point, I was pretty fresh back into RC for a few months. The Nitro driver and I would be considered Sportsman drivers at the time. The Pantoura was about at its peak The Pantoura is CRC's first 1-10 scale pan car. We had good traction. Note the pass after two laps.

www.Stranahan-rc.com/Wide_Pan_Car_vs_Touring_Car.wmv


At this point I was a better pan car driver than before. The tc is a professional driver now and was pretty good as well. I had only recently begun running wide pans so it is not quite setup well. The front springs were too weak and it was dragging on the outboard side on the very high speed sweeper. (usually you go softer to get more steering, here it needed to be stiffer to prevent roll.) Everywhere else on the layout the wide pan was hooked up pretty well. You will see the typical pan car trait, good acceleration for 15-30 feet and then ferocious acceleration into a blur once the wing kicks in some good rear downforce. The 3-link much improves on what you see here on the straight early and late. Best open mod tc lap time 18.5 seconds (mine). Best standard wide pan lap time 17.8 seconds. The car was a home widened Pantoura with custom Aluminum front widening adaptors. Note the 15 foot advantage on the straight after one lap. The cars were dead even on the previous lap.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/3-LinkSuspension.wmv


Guys asked me to post this because they were unsure how this 3-link suspension moves. I go through the movement in bump, roll right, roll left, bump viewed from the side, the negative camber gain of the dual A-arm front suspension that really hooks it up, and then a side view showing the minimal movement of the pod bottom plate with bump. Look at the reflection in the table for this last part. It is quite short.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Antisquat_Movie.wmv


This video shows exactly why the 3-link accelerates better. I rotate the pod simulating motor torque, you can see the rear of the chassis lift and then the entire chassis lifts really loading the rear tires. On a standard pan all you get is some lifting of the rear of the chassis any load transfer from the front is completely eliminated by the dampening of the center shock. It does not “come up solid” like the three link.


www.Stranahan-rc.com/Drilling_ABS_Intake_Manifold_Flange.wmv

Well this is just interesting. We are drilling some huge precisely angled holes in a 1 inch thick ABS plastic billet on a milling machine. The plastic will be used as part of an intake manifold for a quad throttle body install on a Ford Focus 2300 Duratec motor. We used coolant and had some typical big work on a little machine type problems.
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-27-2009 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:05 AM   #1110
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clicking the links you get "Error Accessing Page"
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Last edited by lidebt2; 08-27-2009 at 08:42 AM.
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