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Old 08-17-2009, 10:57 PM   #1081
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Thanks.
I have not, but I have run the Ballistic 3.5. I am very pleased with it in a touring car. I like the vents, the plug in sensor, the narrowed back end, The easy take apart back end for sensor replacement. I prefer the old HV 3.5 in the pan car It has slightly more power.
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Old 08-18-2009, 07:37 AM   #1082
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Thanks guys I will loook into your recommendations on CAD programs. This will be my winter project then.
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Old 08-18-2009, 10:24 AM   #1083
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Is there a "magic" number you shouldnt go past?
Nitrobeast - it's not really that the shore of the tire changes as you go lower (in actuality, it doesn't. I have a durometer and the only way it "changes" is if it is too shallow for the probe to penetrate before hitting the rim. Take the remaining foam off and measure it by itself and there is no change. . .)

What happens is that as you get a smaller and smaller tire (wear off the foam) you lose the amount you can flex - less sidewall, less flex. There is a corresponding effect - the less flex, the quicker the steering response. . .

Same with full size cars, btw - it's why racers run lo-pro tires: their traction is in the suspension and their slicks. they want the car reacting as QUICKLY as possible to their inputs!

In any case, you lose a bit of grip by losing that flex AND since you're reacting more quickly to steering input, it effectively means you have less traction.

The tire didn't get harder (higher shore rating) - you just have less of it.

This can actually be a benefit to you - if you find a size that you just love, take a note of it. If you're in a tough race, use tires that are of that size or just a smidge bigger (so you'll wear them down and be PERFECT in the middle of the race!) and kick his ass!

We used to run a slightly larger rim (can't find them anymore ) so that our tires, when they were at a "normal" overall diameter, were lower profile (big car principle) so we had quicker response.


In any case (and because I ramble. . .) just remember:

smaller sidewall=less flex and less traction but quicker response
larger sidewall = more flex and more traction but more sluggish response
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Old 08-18-2009, 02:30 PM   #1084
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That press fitting thread insert is the same one as on the little battery support plate you took off the car. Just pop the part out of the old part and put it in the new part. The part number you have is the correct part it should be # 1287 though, it comes with the setscrew that you don't need. I bought a couple spares of these. I have the best installation luck by putting a little aluminum plate behind the threaded insert and tapping with a small hammer. It goes in unmarred this way and cuts nice grooves to prevent spinning lose in the future.
I ordered a couple sets. I didn't want to tear apart the parts I'm replacing in case I need them later and of all things, I can use them to remove the rear pair of upper deck braces for added flex in my JRX-S Type R if needed. I thank you and Mr. Powell for your efforts on designing and making these parts available.

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Old 08-19-2009, 09:02 AM   #1085
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Boomer-Thanks. I agree with you that the indicated shore rating changes because of a problem of measuring with a probe, rather than, the foam is getting stiffer. The probe is just too long when the foam is thin. Thanks for the post.

John-Thanks. You are welcome.

3-link rear end progress
We are closer to production. This 3-link fits either a wide Gen-X 10 shown here or the narrow 200 mm car. The only difference will be the width of the Nerfwings needed. I have some of the production parts in hand to resetup my prototype. Not in yet, the new Heavy Duty lower pod plate. Web site almost finished. The left pic shows a no drill Panhard bar mount for the Gen X 10 that will be supplied. I am happy with the result and especially that the cost is low by using almost production parts. I have, however, custom drilled the hex posts as I will for customers kits. The first post has two extra drilled and tapped holes. One to take the Losi ball nut and allen stud. The second takes a long allen screw which transfers torque in a crash to the second post (which has one extra drilled and tapped hole). These posts simply replace (I will admit the much more lovely) 1/2 inch hourglass standoffs on the stock Gen X 10. Now if Frank at CRC gets interested in selling something like this 3-link, he will undoubtedly improve the appearance with a custom part here.

Note this pod is stiffened up for heavy duty use with a 3.5. It has the 4 mm thick upper pod plate, extra washers, steel screws, and blue loctite under the screw heads. I have seen nothing accelerate faster on my big 1/8th scale tracks straight than this car, including 4 w drive mod 1/8 scale Nitros.

The second view shows the Panhard bar from the rear of the pod. The original center post and center pivot ball are used to maintain the proper spacing and hold down cost. I have raised the shock mounts just slightly to increase shock travel in bump. I used 5/16 Aluminum standoffs under the Dubro Dura Collars that hold the shock mount.

The third view shows the right side Panhard bar mount. The Losi ball nut and stud goes into a custom drilled and tapped hole in the front of the motor plate. A customized (pre drilled) motor plate will be available or you can modify your own and save money by drilling .2 inch up from the bottom of the aluminum plate a centered hole in the front of the motor plate and then tapping it #4x 40TPI.

Anyway-nothing is for sale quite yet. I can speak freely about the prototypes. This 3-link came out very tidy. There are some advantages over my other 3-link. The Gen-X-10 side plates limit the travel of the big side links in a crash as does the panhard bar. This reduces stress on the shock ends. They never pop off on this rig. Handling is as good as my other more custom 3-link wide Pan car which sports a CRC Pantoura Chassis.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-custom-left-side-panhard-bar-mount-installed.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-rear-view-less-motor-3-link-rear-end-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-right-side-panhard-bar-3-link-rear-end.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-19-2009 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:44 PM   #1086
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For those off you using the crc center esc mount . what esc's have you found that fit under the top plate ?.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:23 PM   #1087
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For those off you using the crc center esc mount . what esc's have you found that fit under the top plate ?.
What center mount?
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:39 PM   #1088
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What center mount?

this one

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Old 08-20-2009, 02:47 PM   #1089
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For those off you using the crc center esc mount . what esc's have you found that fit under the top plate ?.
I would think a Tekin rspro or Mamba max would fit.

I just stuck a regular size ESC in mine and raised the top plate to accommodate it.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:47 PM   #1090
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this one

Thats the one thank's . The height between the mount & top deck is the problem . I wanted to use my novak hovak but it's to tall . So it looks like my Speed passion LPF v1.1 will fit . So i may try & find a used one . Also i saw on the NOVAK site they are coming out with a havok esc that is 1s specific & has a built in voltage booster . They also said they will be offering a flat plate that replaces the heat sink for mounting the esc in tight places .
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:54 PM   #1091
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I would think a Tekin rspro or Mamba max would fit.

I just stuck a regular size ESC in mine and raised the top plate to accommodate it.
I thought about that as well . I just measured the space between the two plates . It looks to be right at 3/4 of a inch . I also measured my SP esc it looks to be right at 3/4 of a inch . I could also file a little off the heat sink to make sure it clears the top deck .
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:55 PM   #1092
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Originally Posted by snellemin View Post
this one

Ah, the URL has the part number. NICE! CRC #1772.
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:07 PM   #1093
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Yes it is nice . It puts the ESC in FR of the motor & right behind the battery, when using 1s lipo or a 4 cell pack .
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:12 PM   #1094
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This is how I did mine. I got those plastic stands off at Ace hardware.

The fan one the ESC is still intact and needed to keep it running cool with that 3.0T motor, in the Texas heat + the body on.





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Old 08-20-2009, 03:13 PM   #1095
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my rs-pro fit's it BUT the posts are too tall, I was thinking or grinding the back of the top plate alittle, so the pod doesn't hit the post's, and run it there
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