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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 08-06-2009, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
I picked the TQ one because of its size. Im not sure about the output voltage. I can measure it for you later today if you really wanna know.
I emailed steve at TQ today . He told me it puts out 5 volts.

Last edited by hippie; 08-06-2009 at 02:46 PM. Reason: Found info
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:21 PM
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I have been out of town for a couple of days. Thanks for the posts guys. It seems all is answered so I will continue with some breaking news.

Next Generation Dual A-arm Front End Kit to be Offered Soon
Doug Powell has expressed interest in getting this front end on the market. Expect a CNC'd prototype in 2-3 weeks. Sales to follow. There will be two versions available a wide pan, at 212 mm, and a 200 mm pan, at 190 mm (about 190mm wide at the front wheels is my preference on the narrow pan for good full size tire clearance on the 200 mm bodies).

The Wide Pan front end will be a no drilling needed version that will bolt directly to a Gen X 10 chassis to make it wide. The chassis may be left unmodified by making a cut to the lower arms. The graphite plate inner A-arm will replace the function of the trimmed off plastic, or the chassis can have its "ears" cut off as mine are in the second photo below to have maximum robustness to the suspension. I have been driving this setup on this very fast wide pan for several weeks now. The only breakage has been one Associated steering Arm ($1.10), that took quite a strong hit to the boards. I hit an uneven seam in the boards at speed on the straight.

The narrow pan will require Drilling and countersinking four new holes in the chassis. A $10.00, 82 degree combination countersink/center drill will be available for sale and a template or measurments to mark the chassis.

In addition either model should fit a variety of other chassis. If you have graphite where the holes go (as opposed to a lightening hole) you should be able to mount the suspension to your chassis. If you have a wide pan just compare it to a buddies Gen-X 10. There are four inner suspension mounting holes that should give you an idea if the suspension will fit your chassis. The 200 mm holes will be 11 mm inboard of these on the same square pattern. (Don't drill those puppies quite yet. CAD to come.)




Some Advantages to this suspension over the sliding kingpin
  • Better camber control from very long kingpins. The long pin has more leverage on the steering arm.
  • Better camber curve from unequal length A-arms
  • Low Scrub compared to a sliding kingpin. The tire does not move sideways much as it goes up. A touring car rubber tire like wear pattern is actually developed on the foams.
  • Fully Dampened by RC18T hydraulic front shocks. (no more gooey grim-my mess on the kingpins) This gives the front end better steering traction
  • Independent Roll center and Camber adjustment. Not so on your sliding kingpin where more negative camber lowers the roll center.
  • ROAR legal for both GTP and GT pan cars. ROAR legal for flat Oval Cars and on the Velodrome. World GT will come around in time. You can always have a local track variance like we do when using a 2S LiPo 10.5 on our big outdoor track.
  • Easy tire wear compensation. I usually just turn the shock collars although you can shim the suspension up with washers just like the Associated style suspension.
  • Very rugged in this latest design.
  • Very low center of gravity. Check the position of these lower A-arms.
  • Fits under both 200 mm GT bodies and the very low LMP body, and GTP bodies of the wide pan.
  • There is a little extra weight but it is well worth it. The shocks are actually only .2 ounces or so each.
  • Easy to adjust, washers under the lower A-arm pivots. Washers under the top plate. These adjust roll center. Shim change on kingpin adjust roll center or ride height.
  • Better steering traction. Better steering preciseness and feel. More supple than a sliding kingpin.
Note the lower A-arm bottoms can be deribbed for clearance and aerodynamics or left alone for more strength.
Again I won't be profiting from this front suspension. This is a new product announcement. More to come soon
  • Wide Pan Nerf Wing
  • 3-link rear end kit for the 200 mm and wide Gen-X-10
When you finally get the dual A-arm front and the 3 link back end on a pan you are just going to be amazed at the traction improvement forward and cornering and the and steering precision improvement.
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-latest-dual-arm-front-end-next-generation-wide-pan.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-latest-dual-arm-front-end-next-generation-wide-pan-bottom.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-06-2009 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:48 PM
  #1023  
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pretty cool front end there.. the only problem i see is when folks try to run them in their WGT cars where the front end is already spec'd in the rules as fixed lower arm dynamic strut.. gonna be more than one unhappy camper..
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:53 PM
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Sorry for the DP .
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:54 PM
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Does this CRC brace & the manutech brace do the same thing ?.http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...ln3277&x=6&y=8

http://www.manutech.info/151103specs.html . IF so is one better than the other as far as install & removel for working on the FR end ?.
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Old 08-06-2009, 03:30 PM
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Tally-I noted where the front end was legal and where it is not. It is not in the WGT cars at present due to the anti Stranahan clause. It will be some day. It is legal in GT and GTP style pan car racing in Europe, In Canada, and Here in the States in Colorodo. It is legal in ROAR oval racing and on the Velodrome. If these WGT cars are not allowed to progress a little in the future interest will die. No new molds need be produced to have a working dual A-arm front end. Now interestingly they werent able to figure out the exact wording to kill the 3-link so it is still legal for the back end of the WGT cars. In a way there are 3 telescoping links and a center pivot already.

3-link with Panhard bar to come.


hippie-Those two parts do share a similar function and stiffen the front end for carpet. The Manutech part is easier to install. It is probably less effective just because it is narrow. The CRC part allows the installation of the long ball upper arm that gives you a tuning option. I like my upper arm short, though.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-06-2009 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 08-06-2009, 03:49 PM
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I like the CRC one because its CF. The extra tunning option would be a plus . What are the advantages of the longer upper arm ?.

Last edited by hippie; 08-06-2009 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:02 PM
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The long upper arm gives you less negative camber gain with roll. This would make the tire have a slightly less than optimum angle the harder the car rolls. This should kill some traction and promote sliding. I say all this without having actually tried the long arm in a back to back test with the short arm. Maybe someone else can post his test results.

I like the Manutech part as it will stiffen the front end while keeping things neat and simple. Note this also kills some front traction.
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:30 PM
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What are you guys using for lube in the side tubes ?. I got my genx 10 today . It is in awsome shape for a used car .

Last edited by hippie; 08-07-2009 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 11:25 AM
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try this one.

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...od&prodID=4212

get all three weights and have a tuning option. Lighter will give you more rear cornering traction.
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Old 08-07-2009, 12:11 PM
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I checked a couple sites . They only have two weights listed light & heavy . I have not found a medium weight yet . I have diff oils & shock oils from my 1/8 truggy . Can i use any of those ?. Also what kind of gear ratio are you guys using for a 13.5 on 1s lipo in WGT on carpet ?.

Last edited by hippie; 08-07-2009 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 12:35 PM
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It is going in a great direction. Will it bolt on as a standard associated bolt patern? Just curious, could i use this on a wide pan or is it for a small pan to make it into a wide pan? As i read it i would have to make 4 holes on the chassis to make this modification on an excisting wide pan?

I just hope Doug Powell will have time left to get his other projects finished because I am still waiting for my redesigned wide pantoura chassis . Doug, if you didn't mill my design yet, could i ask for 4 more holes at the front so i can later on use this new front end?
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
It is going in a great direction. Will it bolt on as a standard associated bolt patern? Just curious, could i use this on a wide pan or is it for a small pan to make it into a wide pan? As i read it i would have to make 4 holes on the chassis to make this modification on an excisting wide pan?

I just hope Doug Powell will have time left to get his other projects finished because I am still waiting for my redesigned wide pantoura chassis . Doug, if you didn't mill my design yet, could i ask for 4 more holes at the front so i can later on use this new front end?

Your parts are done and on the way. At the moment, I wouldn't know where to locate the holes anyway.
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Old 08-07-2009, 07:21 PM
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Can i use this springs from the RR of the car http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ide-Spring-Set , on the FR of the car as well , or do i need to use this style spring ?.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nd-Spring-50mm
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hippie View Post
I emailed steve at TQ today . He told me it puts out 5 volts.
Sorry for the late reply. Yes its 5 volts, i measured it yesterday.
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