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Old 07-22-2009, 10:12 PM   #961
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Nerf Wing Install Continued

Here is my World GT Petite Le Mans car (3800 Orion 2s LiPo, Novak 10.5 spec class). It is a Gen X 10 with stock suspension. We run on a large outdoor track. The first race is in two weeks. This will be the form of the car I will race. Should give the youngsters some trouble. Note the following.

I run a diffuser so a full size bumper will not fit. It will obscure the function of the diffuser. I have installed a Kydex 1/12 scale bumper from CRC.

I have installed the newly released Nerf wings from PRC, [email protected]. I have moved the electronics far back but still low with the aid of the nerf wings.

The body post position is much more rigid and is moved farther back and farther outboard.

I have drilled a new hole to make my RC 18T rear single shock exit the center at right angles to the car. I have Dremmeled away extra side plate from the stock short side plates.

The receiver is mounted forward because of a short lead from the Tekin Speed Control. There will be some lead ballast needed to meet our 42 ounce minimum weight. This is the weight where the car works well on asphalt. It penetrates the dust better. I have regulated it in to our spec class.

My top plate was cracked. I will be replacing it with the new CRC double thick 4 mm top plate.

The back end is brutally strong now. I should be able to Nerf those young puppies into the boards with no breakage.

The front end is stock except for the new brass pivot balls and is holding up very well.

I like these GFR body posts a lot once they have been converted to body pins. Lefthander-RC.com

This Tekin speed control is nice in that it is small and low. You can use the 12 gauge wires with no problems for spec class. I suggest a larger capacitor even for a 10.5 as it reduced temperature markedly for me when running a 3.5 in a touring car. The 4700 micro Farad capacitors from Novak or Spektrum should be ideal.

How do those Nerfwings look. Well to me it looks like they came in the kit. Very nice. I'll note a wide chassis of the same shape would not provide sufficient roll clearance and would have to be run excessively tall ride height. The Nerf wing is a good option to have.

Current Setup for a large outdoor track with brand new asphalt

Purple front springs
white rear springs
Blue Associated 17.5 lb center spring
40 weight oil with small bevels on front of the shock piston holes.
Spec rear tires
Purple fronts (this is an exception (any front tire) for our large asphalt track), -1.5 degree camber
1/10 pan GT class wing 2 inch spoiler chord (why fight that puny wing on a big track). This is an exception for our Petite Le Mans class.
Sophia body at present.
No toe in.
4 degrees caster
0 reactive caster blocks
Pod droop 2 mm
Front wheel droop 1 mm. No preload.
Ride Height 6 mm front middle and back.
This setup is absolutely hooked up on Mikes-hobbyshop.com new asphalt.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-nerf-wing-electronics-install-002.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-nerf-wing-electronics-install-003.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-22-2009 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 07-23-2009, 11:43 AM   #962
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Nerf Wing Electronics Install Complete


What a striking looking car. Sweet!


Ready to Race on asphalt.

Note:
Antena mount on right hand side plate. I saved one hole.

Short fat 12 guage with just enough curve and length not to influence roll much.

Double Tekin Capacitor for high amp 2s LiPo racing with a 10.5

Red lead is too short to plug into the negative side.

Everything is really low. Ready for a test.

(Correction to Powell already taken care of)
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-nerf-wing-electronics-install-finished-002.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-25-2009 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 07-23-2009, 01:29 PM   #963
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That looks clean John. Gonna hafta get me the nerve wings for mine as well.
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:02 PM   #964
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Default tire

I was looking at lefthander rc and saw those tires.

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...roducts_id=504

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...roducts_id=498

I know it says it is for oval racing, BUT, as it is rubber it last more than foam tires, the question is can use it on my GenX as an option?

The thing is to bring foam tires to Brazil almost every month is going to make the thing expensive with rubber maybe I would have more time to play with.

Let me know your thoughts guys.
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:42 PM   #965
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Personally I would just order more foam tires at one time.

I had a set of rubber tires on my wide pan. Blues. They only worked good in extremely hot temps. In the morning of the same day they were useless. The foams are extremely insensitive to temps. Once you find the colors that work you keep using the same tire all year. By the time you outfit yourself with rubber in the different compounds required for good traction during different parts of the year and day you will have spent a good deal of money indeed. I am getting very long wear on rears on my World GT cars (a couple of months). Fronts (BSR purple) are wearing about twice as fast still only one set a month

Nerf-A side hit into your oponent.
Note you don't do this on purpose.
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:31 PM   #966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Personally I would just order more foam tires at one time.

I had a set of rubber tires on my wide pan. Blues. They only worked good in extremely hot temps. In the morning of the same day they were useless. The foams are extremely insensitive to temps. Once you find the colors that work you keep using the same tire all year. By the time you outfit yourself with rubber in the different compounds required for good traction during different parts of the year and day you will have spent a good deal of money indeed. I am getting very long wear on rears on my World GT cars (a couple of months). Fronts (BSR purple) are wearing about twice as fast still only one set a month

Nerf-A side hit into your oponent.
Note you don't do this on purpose.
John, oncemore thanks for you help and advice, I will do that instead of trying rubber.

I will make a good order on foam tires to reach the best compound for the track I run it, them it is just a matter of making a good stock.
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:47 PM   #967
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Tires for outdoor asphalt

I retested pink vs CRC World GT spec rear (or BSR spec rear) once again on the back of one of my powerful wide pans. The World GT spec tire was 10-15 ft per lap faster. After putting on the World GT tire, I was that much faster than a 1/10 nitro that I was just keeping up with on pinks. Just get that rear tire and save yourself a lot of trouble and expense. Note BSR makes the spec tire for CRC and they are identical except for packaging. Stormerhobbies.com sells to international addresses and has both the BSR and CRC tires. Maybe the secret is the rubber in the blue stripe! These work better than Magentas for me.

There are very few track conditions where the purple front are not the best outdoors. Get GRP, or (BSR to match the wheel on the spec rear tire), and forget all that trial an error. It has been done already. Rig the car up to suit those tires then.

This is also the perfect set for my World GT Petite Lemans 200 mm pan car that runs 2s LIPo and Novak 10.5 outdoors.
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-25-2009 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:04 AM   #968
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John,

Just a warning.

I have a tekin rs pro as well. I use a small fan that blows towards the posts. They act as heatsinks. You mounted yours so the posts are towards the outside, this is good but i am not sure if that is enough. Be very carefull while driving it and after 3 minutes or so see what tempeture the speedo is.
( the lights will say how warm it is) With a fan mine came off the track with 3-4 lights on, so no problem. This was with a 4.5t. rollout was +- 30mm.

The first time i drove my rspro was without a fan. My capacitor exploded with the 4.5t and damaged my rsprocase. I installed a bigger cap but didn't install a fan.

The next race everything was coocking. All the wires to the motor and the wiress to the lipo were all hot. When i took the body off i could smell burned rubber, probably insolation from the wires etc. Not good to do that for longer periods of time. After i installed a 25mm fan everything was ok.

edit:
I just see you are going to drive a 10.5t. so no worries then hehe.
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:13 AM   #969
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Tekin RS Pro
The first of these is working on my TC5 touring car. I had two short blackouts today. It was not too hot. I suspect radio trouble. I have a good vertical antenna. I will try a capacitor on the BEC circuit next.

I have a second brand new RS Pro on my World GT car. I had it at the track today for a test of the new Nerf wings. It would not go into setup mode. It would not run the motor. I got some LRP SXX back from Service. I replaced the Tekin with one of these. Here is a pic of a different install. The speed control position is mainly taking advantage of the wiring arrangement. I don't want wire to have to cross each other to keep things short and neat. You certainly need some curvature in the wire so that when the car rolls no wire becomes taught to limit roll. You need some spring in the wire. Make all solder connections with an alligator clip used for a heat sink very near the stripped part of the wire. This will prevent solder wicking up the wire and making it stiff. This is real important if you use short runs like I have pictured in the last to installs. That SXX feels mighty strong on the bench when I run up the 10.5 motor. See the first pic.

Nerf bar:final shim
I put one Associated #4 flat aluminum washer each under the outboard and rearward mounting screw of the Nerf bar. On the setup board push the rear of the chassis all the way down. Your back of the chassis should be the first to hit. Now push the front side and back side of the car to put it into full roll. The side of the chassis should touch first and the screw heat on your outboard body post just after. See the second pic.

Finished again except for ballast. Track test maybe Sunday.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-nerf-wing-electronics-lrp-sxx-install-finished-002.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-nerf-wing-electronics-lrp-sxx-install-finished-003.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-25-2009 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:21 AM   #970
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2 w drive-Thanks. I have the RSPro also on my TC5. Solder Posts are out. There is a fan on the posts. Use is 3.5 in hot conditions. Max temp by temp gun is 160 F today. Power FETs are on the bottom. I trimmed off any excess servo tape that was exposed on the bottom by lightening holes in the chassis. Just use your X-acto knife tip. I was told to use a larger capacitor for this situation. I have a 4700 Spektrum installed. It is working fine. I have a huge Novak capacitor double this size to go on. I promised to blow Phil's doors off with it but it will probably will work the same. I will use the Spektrum cap for its intended use on the receiver as I am getting some unexplained shutoffs on the track of short duration.

Note pivot on rear of custom top strap. CRC guys should recognize the part. It adds more chassis flex.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-tc5-tekin-rs-pro-spektrum-capacitor-001.jpg  
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:29 AM   #971
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John,

Use two 25V low ESR caps on the Tekin. Something around 1800uF a piece. My buddy runs 4 caps on his with a 2.5T motor, with a fan blowing onto the posts. Runs like a champ at Randy's. I add capbanks on my RX8's as well for my power hungry setups.

My crc uses four 470uF 25V caps on the ESC with the 3T x12 motor.
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Old 07-25-2009, 07:35 AM   #972
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John

Do you think those Word GT spec tires would perform better than pinks on the rear of a 13.5/1cell/COT oval car? Track is smooth asphalt in Florida sun.
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:01 AM   #973
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Thanks for the tips.

Pejota Oval is a whole different can of worms. On the oval with a low powered motor reducing tire scrub is the main aim. After you get some experience you will need to get off the pink rears and onto something harder. I ended up with XXPink or XXPink/purple most of the time. Pink left front purple right front.

I think the CRC spec tire is a bit harder than pink from my tests on the oval. So yes replace pinks with it, but look to XXpink xxpink/purple in the future.

Nerf Wing Report

Better hole position on rear body mount with the Nerf wing. I am out of the glass area now. Hole in glass area is from the extended side plate. New Nerf wings will come with two sets of body post holes, the one with the results shown (farthest outboard) and one .25 inch inboard that will work better on the Sophia body.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-nerf-wing-body-post-position-rear-r34-gtr-skyline-001.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-25-2009 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:54 AM   #974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pejota View Post
John

Do you think those Word GT spec tires would perform better than pinks on the rear of a 13.5/1cell/COT oval car? Track is smooth asphalt in Florida sun.
99% of the time 3 pinks and a purple rf work best..you can try the cheapo tires but may find tire wear is not as good as the pinks..

pejota this is katf1sh try not to read too much into this thread..alot of bad info for florida oval racing...bannanas is all i can say...
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Old 07-25-2009, 10:15 AM   #975
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Capacitor Tips:

Why Is Low ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) important:

The output capacitor (or capacitor bank) will have a ripple voltage (seen as noise on the supply voltage) proportional to the ESR of the capacitor (or capacitor bank).

V = I X R ... Ripple voltage = Current X ESR

If the current increases from 4A to 20A, within a circuit, the ripple voltage will increase by a factor of FIVE. This increased noise cannot be tolerated, so the ESR of the capacitors must be reduced.

Why Does Capacitor Material matter:

Solid Polymer Type:
-Highest Cost
-Low Capacitance Values (330 or 470uf)
-Low Voltage (16V)
-SUPER LOW ESR & HIGH RIPPLE CURRENT
-Does not dry out at high temperatures. Long Endurance.
-Operate in Low Temperature
-Performance Fades in High Temperature.

Example: Nichicon LF 16V 470 (PLF1C471MDO1) note: use 3x

LIQUID ELECTROLYTE:
-Lowest Cost
-High Capacitance Available (1800 6800uF)
-High Voltage (25 to 100V)
-Low ESR are available
-Larger devices dry-out at high temperatures.
-High Temperature performance is consistent.

Example:
Rubycon MCZ 16V 1800 (16MCZ1800) note: use 2x
Nichicon HV 25V 2700 (UHV1E272MHD) note: use 2x
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