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Old 07-04-2009, 03:58 PM   #916
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can you recommend where to mount the rear wing on the sophia body, front, middle, rear? i'll be using this on carpet with a 13.5t world gt car if it makes a difference.
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:06 PM   #917
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Photo 6, see first 5 above, The rear of the body cutout about as much as I care to. At least to the top of the new vents. There is definitely a stream of air coming out from them.

Low ET on carpet I would start out full rear to loosen up the steering. Run the car and see if you need more traction front or back. If you need more front steering traction move the wing forward.
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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-rear-body-cutout-001.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-04-2009 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:35 PM   #918
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Hey John, just wanted to point out something about your Pro 10 front end for future consideration. It looks like your upper shock mounts to the upper hinge pin. This is common on many cars (even real ones) but there is a problem with it. This will result in a regressive spring rate. Of course, there is so little actual suspension movement that it probably wouldn't be real noticeable but if you could find a way to move the upper shock mount out a bit you might see some improvements.
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Old 07-04-2009, 07:05 PM   #919
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wingracer-noted. I like you think that for the 2 mm so of front travel there is little to gain by moving the upper shock out. There is lots to lose: like the use of the current A-arm and the required fabrication of an upper shock mount, lack of body clearance if moved up. I am very pleased by the current setup on the track. There are lots of ways to adjust this front end.
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:39 AM   #920
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John, don't be afraid to take out the entire rear panel. You will like the results. Leave about 5mm under the rear wing to add some stability. Just follow the cut-line.

Some comments on the ripped tire:
There doesn't seem to be any glue mark on the rim?

Further, I've had a similar effect when a tire lost its bond to the edge of the rim. It pays to check them every other run. I bond the edges with CA when they start to come apart.
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Old 07-05-2009, 06:55 AM   #921
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Pro-ten-Thanks. There are plenty of glue marks on the adjacent rubber that is peeled off somewhat. The glue seems to have stripped itself cleanly off of the wheel plastic. I'll check the edges more often.

Jeff's Gen X 10

Jeff our shop manager has purchased a Gen X 10. Here is a pic of the assembled car. I thought I would point out some modifications and some optional parts that I like again.

GFR body posts. Note that the fifth post needed to have a hole drilled and countersunk. These will be drilled with two holes for body pins. The micro adjusting height will make quick work of getting the body set correctly. The round tops make a neat visible portion of the post with body on. The 1 inch long Aluminum bottoms along with stiff plastic rods make a good stiff body post, but not too stiff like all aluminum posts which break your graphite.

I have installed rear extended side plates to move the rear body pin out of the roof and onto the shoulder of the car making a stiffer mount. This also allows me to use the original side plates as little platforms (not too high up) where I can mount the speed control on the right side and receiver on the left side.

I have gone to a single side shock like the Associated RC10R5. I squared the shock up with the chassis center line better by moving the outboard shock mount to a hole farther forward. The car works great this way.

I have mounted a fairly powerful PDS 2413 ICS servo from KO propo. I use the farthest right hand screw on the servo platform to mount one of the servo mounts. Normally this screw only holds the servo plate. The previous install ended up about 1/16 inch off center. Truthfully this is of no concern. A racer that had used this servo install was concerned, however, so this is the fix. Take your X-Acto knife and slot the right side servo ear holes. This will allow you to move the servo left that 1/16 inch and have it perfectly centered. Note the Axial red countersunk washers. Note short servo extension to reach the rear mounted receiver.



Front springs are purple cylindrical with Purple front tires. This is working great with a 10.5 and 2s LiPo.

All of the aluminum ball nuts are replaced with the Losi steel female ball stud from the JRXS. The center pivot and side link ball studs have additional reinforcement to protect the graphite ears; this consist of thin hardened steel Belleville washers (spring washer) from a Losi JRXS diff screw assembly. Pointy side up.

The rear center shock now wears a silver 14.5 lb Associated spring and a RPM spring seat to compensate for its longer length. I have put .010 inch bevels on the top of the holes in the piston. This has the effect of reducing the stiffness of bounce travel of the shock (pod moves up) while leaving rebound unaffected. 40 weight oil. The tires remain more planted over the bumps as a result.

That is one really nice looking car.
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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-jeffs-gen-x-10-002.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-losi-jrxs-shock-piston-bevel-001.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-05-2009 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:12 PM   #922
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Hi there:
I have a problem.
I drive sometimes on a really large track and i have problem with my runtime and thermal, i have a 4.0T motor from orion and lrp 5300mah and the motor sucks the power out of the batteries in 4.30 minutes and gets very hot, The ampdraw is to big i guess, do i need another motor like the 5.5 or can i use this motor but with another gearing? I can go down in top speed a bit but it´s nice to have it. I hold the full throttle in approx 5seconds on the straight, My gear ratio for the moment is 60mm tires 110spur and 18tooth piniong. The rollout is approx 31mm with this setup which i dont think is to high...
Please help me, i can buy another motor if this solves my problem.
Kind regards
Tomas
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Old 07-05-2009, 05:48 PM   #923
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Tomas-generally reducing the number of pinion teeth will reduce amp draw and cool things off. Try this first.

On my touring car at 105F and 150 F track temps the car became somewhat unreliable even with lower gears. One new LRP SXX speed control caught on fire. I had to blow the flames out before I could douse it with water. For this car I decided I had to demotor by 1/2 wind to a 4.0 LRP X12. I use the old LRP TC edition which has alway run very cool. You do what you have to do to get a reliable car in the heat.

Also there is probably little need to hold full throttle for 5 seconds. Try adding throttle just to keep ahead of the speed of the car. At full throttle these cars can draw 200 amps. That is what kills things. 90-80 percent throttle early in the straight may result in the same speed.

Pro ten- I have cut out the rear panel before. The lack of support to the sides of the car and the wing bother me a lot. The body is short lived as a result. The spoiler flattens at speed. The car ran very fast today. A few more days of practice on the layout and it will be destroying the Nitros. It was already faster than the one I tied with last session which has a good driver.
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:15 AM   #924
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since I can't find anything on 10th scale pan cars anywhere else thought I would post it here

I just put together a rc10L graphite and was looking to get it set up right. I'm running a 19t 4 cell but might put my 13.5 in and maybe 27t or 17.5 6cell looking for a rollout to start with for a 50x92 tight track.

starting points on springs and oil got red progressive up front 0 blocks on associated front end. silver center and not sure probably 40 oil if it has any. running greens all the way around. need to cut the rears as they are 2.58"
the 410-hpc novak looks good in the car.
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Old 07-06-2009, 04:01 AM   #925
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Thanks for the fast answer John. iI need to try laborate a bit.
Here you can see a little movie when i totally destroy some nitro´s, one 1/8 track and a NT car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8gvlrQi-2Q
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:56 AM   #926
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Does someone know if the 1724 - 1/10th SS Lg Ring Diff Hub- BA - RED
is the same lenght as the long rc10l2 diff hub?
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Old 07-09-2009, 01:12 PM   #927
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2-wheel-drive-I don't have the hub in hand to measure it. The SS or super speedway car is an intermediate width oval car in between a wide pan and a 200 mm oval car. I don't think the hub will fit normal oval cars like the L2. A IRS wide pan hub is often used as a 200 mm oval cars right hand hub. What car are you putting the hub on and we will go from there.


Gen X 10 rear AXLE PROBLEMS
It seems that the problem of the threaded stud pulling out of the rear Gen X 10 axle is not under control yet until stock is used up. We are outfitting about 17 (out of 22 total) of these cars for our World GT Petite Le Mans Club racing. We had three axles separate this weekend. One of these was a brand new in a package replacement part axle! So what to do.

Here is a rock solid permanent fix that will get you back in action overnight.

First the reason the glue up is not working is probably graphite dust coating the hole. The glue never even wets the actual graphite of the axle. A nice cylindrical plug pulls out with the stud with little effort. It is coated with this black powdery dust. You must clean off this dust. I used alcohol on a Q-tip cotton swab which I narrowed by removing some cotton and then re-rolling it. Clean out the hole. Clean off the cylinders blackness until you can see fairly translucent glue. Don't remove the glue. Drill the little hole, shown in the pic, half way through, with a tiny drill bit. Here is the point of the hole. You will reinstall the stud by putting a nut on it, coating it with glue and hammering it into place gently. The hole will prevent a hydraulic lock situation if you put too much glue. The excess will shoot out of the hole. The hole will also provide a vent to help cure the thin super glue from both ends now. My repair looked good. I removed the couple threads of excess glue with a 8 x 32 TPI die (optional task). Good to go, after an overnight cure.

Super Glue Accelerator (on stud and hole) may reduce curing to 30 minutes. I did not try it. Certainly you must wait to put it on until after the stud is hammered home.

It will be a lot faster repair than ordering a new axle that may or may not be up to the task. I hope this is resolved soon.
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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-rear-axle-002.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-09-2009 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:08 AM   #928
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well i was planning to use that one on the pantoura wide pancar 235mm. I wasn't sure if that hub is the same as the rc10l2 hubs (or IRS long hub for the rc10l2)
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Old 07-10-2009, 12:36 PM   #929
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Best choice are the IRS hubs for the RC10L2. I think the Gen-X 10 hubs are not the right size.
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Old 07-10-2009, 05:01 PM   #930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjompa View Post
Thanks for the fast answer John. iI need to try laborate a bit.
Here you can see a little movie when i totally destroy some nitro´s, one 1/8 track and a NT car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8gvlrQi-2Q
hey what ESC are you using on the car?
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