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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 05-17-2009, 05:31 PM
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Yes I tried them and they put the springs straight. The problem is they are plastic and already back to the original metal spring holder but does not keep the spring as straight as I would like them to be. The plastic ones seem to work well but will wear quickly.

Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
Any ony one tried the molded version? I am not sure if they are better then the metal ones. It seems to me the metal ones could be more durable?
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:27 AM
  #857  
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Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
Yes I tried them and they put the springs straight. The problem is they are plastic and already back to the original metal spring holder but does not keep the spring as straight as I would like them to be. The plastic ones seem to work well but will wear quickly.
Uhmm .. am i reading your sentence correct in that it says that the plastic ones are better then the metal ones in holding the springs straight but they wear quicker and you put the metal ones back in your car because of that?
( even though the springs aren't kept straight by the holder?)

How long did you use those plastic holders?
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Old 05-18-2009, 11:47 AM
  #858  
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Not long one day but I had some bad hits and trying to figure out if that had anything to do with it. I am getting a couple more for my stock and see how things go when I am not crashing. The reason I went back to the steel ones was I did not have an extra pair of the plastic ones. Now If I the same problem happens with the next two sets I may than just stick to the steel ones and make sure I spend a good amount of time making sure I can get them as straight as possible.

Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
How long did you use those plastic holders?
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Old 05-18-2009, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
Not long one day but I had some bad hits and trying to figure out if that had anything to do with it. I am getting a couple more for my stock and see how things go when I am not crashing. The reason I went back to the steel ones was I did not have an extra pair of the plastic ones. Now If I the same problem happens with the next two sets I may than just stick to the steel ones and make sure I spend a good amount of time making sure I can get them as straight as possible.

To help with the springs staying on the metal ones, make a single groove on a 45deg angle with a dremel cutting wheel. makes it easier for the spring to go on, and keeps it straighter.


Shawn.
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Old 05-18-2009, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
To help with the springs staying on the metal ones, make a single groove on a 45deg angle with a dremel cutting wheel. makes it easier for the spring to go on, and keeps it straighter. Shawn.
Shawn,

That's a good one. Sounds like I should give it a go too. Many thanks.

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Old 05-19-2009, 03:39 AM
  #861  
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Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
To help with the springs staying on the metal ones, make a single groove on a 45deg angle with a dremel cutting wheel. makes it easier for the spring to go on, and keeps it straighter.


Shawn.
Sounds like a simple modification, thanks for the advice!
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:33 PM
  #862  
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Thanks for the tweak spring discussion. I am actually quite happy with the metal spring retainers. If your spring is bent just straighten it. There is absolutely no effect on performance from straightening a spring. I like the little cut Shawn is making. It may make it easier to assemble to the spring. I have ordered plastic ones just to test but have not received any yet. One of my 3-link cars uses the metal holders and springs as the main springs (no center shock spring). They held up on the first test. More tests to come.


Rommel RC, Urethane Chassis Protector for Gen X 10

Julius (Rommel RC) sent me a couple of Urethane chassis protectors to try as a new product for the CRC GEN X 10. I have used this product before on my Associated TC5 touring car and reported good results. What follows is a special report just on the application to the GEN X 10.

The two cars differ somewhat in philosophy on how close to the edge you can place a countersink for a 4-40 or 3 mm screw. On the Gen X-10 many holes are close to the edge on the TC5 not so close. Both cars are durable so neither placement is a problem. The Urethane has to be cut slightly different for each car though. On the TC5 each hole had a full circle cut. I could remove the circle for easy maintenance or leave it for better under chassis aerodynamics. This treatment of the holes, I prefer.
On the Gen X 10, the battery cover screw heads seemed to be a part of the plastic to be removed for the battery cover. I had trouble getting a clean removal of waste urethane whenever I encountered a hole. I would prefer a full circle cut around each hole that would let me remove this material in a second optional step.

Installation: First clean and degrease the chassis with Windex and then alcohol. I tried two ways to install the decal. Originally some soft soap and water was recommended under the decal to allow movement. I tried this but the water went on in a sheet and tended to dry in spots which prevented movement of the decal. I ruined one decal. Then I tried my original method of spraying the area with Windex (with ammonia D). This left many tiny droplets that kept the area wet throughout the install.

It helped a lot with this decal to remove all the waste from the original sheet first. This leaves a nice clean chassis shaped urethane sheet to install. You can easily move it around to a precise fit with the Windex. It was nicely cut and shaped. Be careful of errant hole punches (chad)creeping under your work.

Note that they also sell a RC decal installing spray that will work as well as the Windex.

If you want to keep your chassis looking good you can try this product. It takes a lot of abuse before the chassis is touched. It is easy to remove later on to put on a new one or to sell the car. A piece for the pod bottom plate is included. The chassis lightening holes are cut. They can be removed for better appearance. They will tend to collect dirt if left in place on top.

Road testing to come.

First Use and Install on the TC5
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4890263-post603.html

After a track test on the TC5
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4909235-post608.html

Rommel's R/C World

Custom Cut Urethane Chassis Protector Thread
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-rommel-rc-urethane-chassis-protector-003.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 05-20-2009 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:35 PM
  #863  
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New parts for the CRC GEN X 10

I have in hand now a few of the new products for the Gen X 10. First there is a new upper arm. This arm has a square section now so it is stronger than the old arm. It also has two positions for the inner hinge pin. You should be able to swap from the long arm to the short arm suspension now without using the long upper pivot ball.

I have the upper arm installed on the custom wide pan. It required a couple of mods but it improved the strength over the old arm. The cross brace is now retained with only a minimal radius sanded into it for shock clearance. I have full engagement of the tie rod now. I did trim it a little shorter.

The new heavy duty adjustable lower side links are mounted on my World GT car which is in the standard center pivot side link form. The tension on the balls is adjustable to keep everything loose but with no play. The advantage of longer vs shorter links are that unwanted movement of pod is smaller with longer links. One such effect is that the links tend to pull the center ball and side links into tension as the chassis rolls. In other words as the chassis rolls the links are effectively shorter. This can create minute binding. There is less of this with long links.
My 3-link cars have very long links to minimize unwanted movement even further. For example there is really no need for the motor can to rotate as the pod goes up in bump. Long links in a 3-link arrangement eliminates this rotation of the can; the pod goes more straight up.
Note I am using steel Losi JRXS ball nuts with Losi .020 inch thick Belleville washers (from the Losi XXXS diff screw assembly) This makes a heavy duty attachement of these parts for higher speeds outdoors with a 10.5. Two of these washers raise the center pivot an equal amount.

Last but not least new bronze (copper tin usually) pivot balls. I will give these a test. They should provide good metal to metal lubricity for low friction and should be quite wear resistant.
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-crc-upper-arm-hd-lower-link-pivot-ball-002.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-crc-upper-arm-hd-lower-link-pivot-ball.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-crc-upper-arm-hd-lower-link-pivot-ball-004.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 05-20-2009 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 05-21-2009, 12:41 AM
  #864  
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What are your experiences, are those Losi JRXS ball nuts more durable then the 13616 - Hard Anodized side link balls (low roll center)? If so do you have a part number? there wasn't any part number in the manual.
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Old 05-21-2009, 07:14 AM
  #865  
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Here are part numbers for those two Losi items. Losi calls them female ball studs. The diff screw has those thin tempered steel washers. Put the pointy side up.

The steel side link pivot balls will generally last the lifetime of the car. They will obtain a good polish with use. I also use the Associated steel center pivot ball when running outside. Same deal.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSA6009

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSA3078



https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=ASC4336

The reason to use aluminum would be to lighten the car or to move weight in the car. I have not used the latest hard anodized balls. I know for example the previous anodized aluminum center pivot ball used to last me about a month before it started squeeking groaning and moaning as I moved the suspension in my hand. This is indicative of some friction which is robbing forward traction and also indicative of the hard coat having worn off. If the hard coat is thicker it will last longer; it should be thicker on the newest offerings from CRC.

I also have the nice molded center pivot plastics from CRC. I have not installed them yet.
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:01 AM
  #866  
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ah i see, i orderd the crc hard anodised ones together with all the other hardware i needed for my wide pantoura project. There is really no reason to lighten up the car when you drive with lipo. With lipo you need all the extra bit of weight on the car. I will see how long they last when i get my car up and running. It will be cheap to change them in those losi ones once they are worn. Anyway...first have to get some other parts, specially the chasis. I hesitated to buy those plastic pivot plates. I didn't know if they would fit the pantoura so bought the standard asso pivot ball (steel) and plastic plates instead.
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Old 05-21-2009, 10:39 AM
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The plastic pivot plastics should be a drop in fit on the Pantoura and save having to sand the round parts to the football shape.
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:18 AM
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can we run micro servos on the GenX10? what you guys running with good results.
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Old 05-29-2009, 06:03 AM
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micro is probably too small. A mini seems to work fine. I have been using a Hitec Mighty Mini digital in a few of my cars. It seems to hold up fine. Performance on the track is indistinguishable from larger servos. There is also an Analog version with good specs for half this price.
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by s13evo View Post
can we run micro servos on the GenX10? what you guys running with good results.
The best available faster "mini servos" are:

#1) JR Z3650 Mini Digital Servo
Size: 1.02"H x 1.30"L x .58", Weight: 1.04oz. Torque:51oz/in(@6.0v) Speed: .09 sec/60Deg(6.0v), Metal Alloy Gears.

#2) KO PDS-951 ICS digital servo is a new improvement over the previous PDS-949 ICS. The updates to the servo include, new amplifier and programming while the size of the new PDS-951 is the same. ICS programming can be set via PC interface or hand held programmer (not included). Speed: 0.09 sec @ 60deg. Torque: 107.25 oz-in.

Both do an excellent job with their metal gears. The KO is priced a bit higher than the JR; but, it does have more torque too.

Run a mid-sized servo saver; not the small-sized (as is used for 1/12th scale cars). When you run the car at speed, you will understand why.

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