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Old 04-26-2009, 08:27 PM   #811
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Nice cars guys.
S13Evo. Very nice paint. Sinister.
There is something sneaky under that airdam.
thanks John.
paint was pearl white with metallic blue mix.
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Old 04-26-2009, 11:03 PM   #812
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Hi Guys

Today was IROCC's 1st outdoor warm up race, Points racing starts next weekend. I'm happy to report we had about 14 cars in our Pro 10 class today as a few could not make it out today.

We should have a field of around 23\25 pan cars.
This does not count the Stock TC or Nitro TC class's
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Old 04-27-2009, 01:36 AM   #813
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We had our first big race of the season yesterday.
It was a combined RC-Lemans and Dutch national Championship race on the huge and super-fast track of Rucphen.
On saturday we had 21 drivers in Pro10.
Unfortunately we had rain in sunday, therefore only 7 drivers actually raced.
Qualifying was wet, finals were drying, but still wet enough to give really difficult conditions and tough tire choices.
I TQ'd in the rain.

In the first final the track still was damp, so we all slid around. It was just a matter of control.
I got too nervous in the opening minute, which cost me the win in A1.
In the last minutes I got it together. I had the fastest lap time by 2 seconds and fell one lap short to catch up with the leader. He was just 2 meters away when crossing the line and I was gaining really fast.

In the second final the track was mainly dry with some wet spots.
I made a last minuted descision to swap to tires without traction compound applied of a full dry-full traction compound aplied set.
This time I kept my nerve and ran a strategic race, not taking any risks and forcing others to push too much. I came in at 3rd.

This gave me the overall win!

3 races running for Corally: 2 second places and one big win!

I will post a link to the pictures when they come online.
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Old 04-28-2009, 09:19 PM   #814
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Some tips to share...

1) Have experienced twice that the Rear Top Plate #1765 on the rear pod got too flexy just in front of the mounting screw at the front of the right side plate. Took two Rear Top Plates and CA'ed them together and remounted with three slightly longer screws. It raised the attachment point of the shock a bit higher at the pod; but, I just took out the spacer I was using under that ballend. Has worked great for several weeks. Time to install: 15 min.

2) Got tired of my Sophia bodies cracking at the tops of the front wheel wells after a few impacts. Body was flexing too much. I now have a fifth body post support up against the bottom of my hood to keep the flex in check. Used a screw type Corally RDX post that just acts as a support perch from the underside...no extra hole in body. This is a mod that I copied from Matt Francis' touring cars a few years ago. Time to install: 20 min.

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Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-gen-x-10-002.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-gen-x-10-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-gen-x-10-003.jpg  
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Old 04-28-2009, 11:48 PM   #815
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I HAVE A GENX10 CAR ALMOST BUILT WITH A PROLINE SOPHIA GT BODY,JACO SPEC TIRES FRONT AND REAR,BRAND NEW THUNDER TIGER TOOLS FOR THE CAR AND COMES WITH THE JRZ3650 SERVO. ALSO HAS A FEW PARTS WITH IT. ASKING 300.00

I HAVE A TEKIN RS REDLINE SYSTEM BRAND NEW 17.5 TURN SYSTEM
SALES FOR 300.00 I WILL SALE IT FOR $250.00

PRO MATCH BATTERIES 4 CELL 2 PACKS $40.00 FOR BOTH

EMAIL ME FOR PHOTOS!!!

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Old 04-29-2009, 12:56 AM   #816
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Is it possible to use 1/8th scale bodys for the 235mm GenX10. has anyone tryed one?

here are the specs:

just a little wide but not to much maybe?

SPECS: Length: 19-7/8" (504mm)
Width: 9-7/8" (249mm)
Height: 4-5/8" (116mm) at highest point
Thickness: .030" ( .73mm)
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Old 04-29-2009, 02:28 AM   #817
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1/8th scale bodies are too large.
If you want absurd downforce go for a 235mm 1/10th scale Nitro Body. Something like a Parma Lola.
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:08 AM   #818
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Still Bill-Ditto on both of those mods. I bought a second plate to stack on one of my Gen X 10's. I drill and install a regular post as a fifth post. When you hit the front of the car, that hood goes up and cracks the wheel arch too, so I mount that 5th post in the normal way. Thanks for the tips.

Pro-ten-Thanks for the race report. Does that mean you are running a Corally car now. pics.

light-Thanks for the report. Sounds like a good size group you guys have.
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:00 AM   #819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Still Bill-Ditto on both of those mods. I bought a second plate to stack on one of my Gen X 10's. I drill and install a regular post as a fifth post. When you hit the front of the car, that hood goes up and cracks the wheel arch too, so I mount that 5th post in the normal way. Thanks for the tips.
Hi John,

I have a shaped CRC bumper in place. So, the body only seemed to go downward. We'll see...over the next few weeks.

As Matt pointed out...There was something in the ROAR rules about no fifth body posts for electric cars a few years back. Not sure if it still is a valid rule; but, that is why I don't have the fifth penetration in the body.

Cheers!

Bill
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:40 AM   #820
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Bill-Thanks for the post. I saw no mention of body posts in this years ROAR rules.
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Old 04-29-2009, 12:07 PM   #821
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I have found some spare time to work on my 3-link 1/12th project.
I thought a lot on how to solve the damping problem I have encountered, I tried a few things with damper tubes but that was allways pretty big.
Then I saw a picture here on the board of a 1/12th which has almost the same design I had but this person was able to fit 2 small dampers in the rear.
I still dont know what damper he used, they arent 1/18th asso dampers cause they're smaller (any tips are welcome).
However I made a damper work very promising, I cut down (yep, cut down...) an asso damper so it measures 41mm and had 4mm travel. This way I should be able to fit everything.

The picture of the live car is the car I meant.

Edit: Why are you guys running such a Huge rear wing extension on your Peugot 905HD??? I'm guessing my car would be undrivable with one of those.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-unknown2.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-q12v2-1.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-q12v2-2.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-q12v2-3.jpg.jpg  
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Old 04-29-2009, 02:47 PM   #822
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I'm guessing your car would have way more forward traction mid straight (each short straight) onward with one of those huge spoilers. Give it a try.


Very nice work on that 1/12 scale.

If the pic you saw of the 1/12 scale with angled shocks was in this thread then yes they were the associated RC18T front shocks.

The losi mini-T shock is another alternative. It is probably the same length but is a smaller shock body diameter.

Would it be this pic.
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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-new-3-link-002-resized.jpg  
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Old 04-30-2009, 09:23 PM   #823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Bill-Thanks for the post. I saw no mention of body posts in this years ROAR rules.
And I have seen enough nitro cars with the fifth post to believe it is a defunct rule.
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:34 AM   #824
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I have recently become very interested in a 1/10 pan and have noticed the CRC stuff seems to have the largest following?

Does anyone have any input about Marty's MLP Viper products? His 200mm WGT seems top notch...
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:13 AM   #825
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if your clubmembers drive a lot of crc's then i would buy a crc as well if i were you. It is a lot easier to copy setups that way.
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