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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 04-23-2009, 12:24 AM
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CRC Gen X 10, 200 mm pan, 2s LiPo, Novak 10.5
I had a good practice in difficult conditions. Construction dust was again present as drains are put in on the downhill side of the track.

My car was working well. One change I made is to stiffen the front a little bit with purple progressive springs. I was getting chassis rub marks on both sides of the chassis. If necessary I can increase the tension on the tweak springs. I ran many good laps in spite of the dust. When I spun, the car would eject a little cloud of dust that would stain the track. I won't lie to you good driver skill was needed just to make laps.

We worked on Ron's car a bit. I noticed 4 spins about 2/3 down the straight. The car would just head off out into the rocks. My car was not doing this. Finally I drove his car and it handled well. Then 2/3 down the straight, I spun off into the rocks. This is without having done it with my car in maybe 40 laps that day. I decided the fault was insufficient wing. We are both expecting just a little more rear down force at that point in the track. On better traction days this problem will not show, but you can be assured that with a 10.5 you will be getting some tire bounce or dancing that will keep you from accelerating further.

The dilemma is the car is a Viper body with low Cab roof. So the question is to keep it scale or go with a decent size wing. Well a decent 2 inch chord wing is specified in the roar rules for the 1/10 pan GT class. This is really what you need when you are using a 10.5 or more powerful motor on a large outdoor track.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-23-2009 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 04-23-2009, 03:41 AM
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John, you've got a pm.
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Old 04-23-2009, 06:12 AM
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What rollouts you guys use for 21.5, 17.5, 13.5 and so on? I run 2s lipo with 21.5 @ 52mm rollout. just trying to get ideas here.
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:01 PM
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Jhock-I don't run those on 2s LiPo so I will direct you to the Novak gearing info in a minute.
http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/b...r_gearing.html

Plenty of guys from Europe who use 3.5s and 4.5s on 2s LiPo check in to this thread once in a while. I thought I would copy this post over here on the New LRP X12. Check out the huge power.


Novak GTB, Novak velocity 3.5R VS LRP sphere Competition TC edition and X 12 3.5 R

Finally The Sentry Dyno is to the point where serious and accurate comparisons can be made on powerful motors.

This first comparison is with a Novak GTB and the Novak velocity 3.5. These are first generation items. I have had the motor a long time and used it a lot in the wide pan car. The marriage of the two is perfect. The second items in the comparison are the LRP TC edition speed control and second powerful generation LRP X12. This motor has been run once in my touring car. Again this is a happy marriage. There is plenty of traction for all the power that is available.

If you look at figure one The Novak by itself The chart shows peak power of 524 W. I manually input the highest RPM now looking at the raw data file, the motor reached 61224 RPM. The pitch is really screaming, but the sound level is very tolerable and smooth due to the floating motor mount.

Notice the green line is amps on this graph. It rises to a quick peak and then tapers off as the motor spins up and reverse voltage is built up. The shape is very similar to the stock motor i posted previously but now its up at 220 amps. That second green point pegs the amp meter at 220 (there is a peak on the line) and then there is a slow reduction (the line goes down). This is the typical amp curve a motor would have if no active timing was used.

The third chart shows the LRP TC edition running the X12 3.5. The motor reaches a screaming highest measured 68965 RPM. Higher than the older Novak motor. It also reaches a remarkable 675 Watts. Thats just a remarkable increase over their old X11 3.5 and 150 W more than Novak's Older 3.5

Note the amp draw at the beginning (the green line) is non typical. I have had to use a throttle ramp which slows slightly the application of full throttle (similar to a throttle roll on we talk about). This was necessary to eliminate some stuttering on full throttle on the dyno. On the track the motor is delightfully smooth and free of this effect.

Note that Novak has a new ballistic series of motors. I have a 3.5 on backorder with Novak. I'll test it when received.

Now I just have to see if I can run 5 minutes with this new LRP 3.5. The higher 60% efficiency (yellow line on right hand figure) suggest that I can.
One thing I noted previously is the LRP can is ventilated. There are not any air moving devices inside so air flow is small. The motor still runs pretty hot, but its a step in the right direction.

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Old 04-24-2009, 08:58 PM
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Hi John,
I had a nice run a week ago at the track but wondering one question. Do you use much drag brake and if so how much? Also do you use your brake or do you just let off on the throttle? I don't use my brake at all and wondering if I should learn to brake at certain areas of the track? Any info/help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-24-2009, 09:23 PM
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I don't like drag brake on the wide pan, Your car will tend to stall mid turn. I do use brakes on some hairpin (very tight, shaped like a hairpin) turns. I found with the automatic lap timer on and sounding the lap times out loud, I could run a little faster if I used brakes on two of the hairpins. If the layout has no tight turns you can do without brakes. Most powerful wide pan car guys probably do not use brakes. The lap time is the key to use or not to use.

The amount of brakes you use depends on traction available. You use your throttle EPA to reduce the brakes. I can use 70% in high traction and 45% in low traction. In low traction on a dusty hairpin a light tap of the brakes can set the front wheels and give you good turn in. Generally you only brake in a straight line. As soon as you are off the brakes then turn the wheels gently. The weight will already be transfered to the front by brake application. Brakes on the brushless motor speed controls now are much improved over the first generation brakes. They use to be really weak. Now you have a good amount to play with.
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Old 04-25-2009, 03:59 PM
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Thanks John,
I had a great run today, checked my drag brake and it was set to 9% I took off the drag brake and damm this thing was a rocket!!! Though I did hit hard on the first run as I was still not use to the drag brake but once I got a hang of it I was staying up with the nitro guys.

That helped


P.S. The side dams and wing are working great!!!
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Old 04-25-2009, 07:13 PM
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Here is my report with things I have done as of this week. For starters these are the new items aquired and installed on my kit clamping one piece side links, spring retainers, bronze front end lower arm balls. Right off the bat I noticed a huge difference with the clamping side links, the car handled straight and seemed a bit stiffer not sure if this is doing it or what but I did notice a difference. The other thing I liked about the spring retainers was that when I tweaked the car the springs were much more in place compared to the original spring retainers. Of course I disabled the drag brake on my Novak GTB and also a huge, huge difference. Car was fast, strong and a bit scary I might say. I had to slam the brakes at a few times something I have not done since I have had this kit. But once I got the hang of it I was just letting it run.

Track was dusted, sprayed and the temparture was right on the money. Could not have a nicer day for practice.


P.S. Forgot to mention that I also installed side dams and wing on the p905b and has made a huge difference in how my kit handles. Thanks John for the template.






Last edited by espresso1967; 04-25-2009 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 04-25-2009, 07:36 PM
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Nices pics...Thanks Espresso

I got the same updated Gen-X 10 parts some time ago; but, have not had the chance to install. Currently concentrating on my TC setups for 13.5 at the Reedy.

Get an SXP speedo if you are running 17.5 or 13.5 in your Gen-X 10. You won't regret it!

Bill
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Old 04-25-2009, 07:52 PM
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Running 3.5r Novak 235mm setup.

Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Nices pics...Thanks Espresso

I got the same updated Gen-X 10 parts some time ago; but, have not had the chance to install. Currently concentrating on my TC setups for 13.5 at the Reedy.

Get an SXP speedo if you are running 17.5 or 13.5 in your Gen-X 10. You won't regret it!

Bill
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Old 04-25-2009, 08:00 PM
  #806  
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Heck-I ordered all those pieces and did not get jack. I see who has game.

Thanks for the report.
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Old 04-25-2009, 08:17 PM
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Here is a picture of the new body. Yes I know I was in a hurry and forgot to cover the windows Waiting on new body.

Also I would have had a wicked video but the guy that was taken the video pushed the wrong button

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Old 04-25-2009, 09:10 PM
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The new goodies from CRC helped the car alot. The longer new side links where nice. one thing i didnt like was the spring retainer because it was made of plastic. it wears out instantly due to the matierial. the orginal metal works best for me.

finally got my car dialed for Outdoor Asphalt dusty track.(track does not use any type of sugar coating additive)
running Novak 13.5/LIPO setup

Protoform P905B body
235mm Kit
Pinks Front and Rear (Corally oderless tire Compund with 50spf sunblock)
Purple Springs Front
Blue Spring Rear
everything else such as ride height , shock oil , etc is all stock setup from manual.







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Old 04-26-2009, 05:24 AM
  #809  
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Nice cars guys.
S13Evo. Very nice paint. Sinister.
There is something sneaky under that airdam.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-26-2009 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 04-26-2009, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Nice cars guys.
S13Evo. Very nice paint. Sinister.
There is something sneaky under that airdam.
Looks a little like the car from batman with those huge side dams
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