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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 03-31-2009, 03:47 PM
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Is there anywhere I can find a list of screws used on the Gen X-10?

Also, what weight oil is approximate to the Crc Blue cap lube(extra heavy). Since the blue is sold out everywhere, I am looking for a close alternative.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:19 PM
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where can i find the rules for world gt class
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RLMW VQ View Post
where can i find the rules for world gt class
http://www.worldgtrc.com/
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:38 PM
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http://www.worldgtrc.com/ for what they are worth...
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TimV View Post
Is there anywhere I can find a list of screws used on the Gen X-10?

Also, what weight oil is approximate to the Crc Blue cap lube(extra heavy). Since the blue is sold out everywhere, I am looking for a close alternative.
why not just buy a kit from these guys
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TimV View Post
Is there anywhere I can find a list of screws used on the Gen X-10?

Also, what weight oil is approximate to the Crc Blue cap lube(extra heavy). Since the blue is sold out everywhere, I am looking for a close alternative.
Screws

I initially built my Gen-X 10 using the supplied CRC aluminum screws for the first month or so. Then tried the packaged set of screws offered by RCScrewz which was about 80% good for the screw sizes I actually needed with my build. It was inexpensive (less than $30) and fairly good.

After deciding that the car deserved the best, I decided to upgrade to Lunsford titanium screws because they always prove to after a couple heads stripped out.

I would suggest that the lengths of the 4-40 screws will vary depending on how you build things. So, you should check what is used per the instructions; and, then determine how you are going to actually build it.

FYI...Even though Lunsford doesn't list a 4-40 x 7/16" FH screw on their website, they do have them.

Lubes

So far, I have only used the Blue capped lube (CRC's heaviest) and heavier lubes from others. Use Blue most of the time; unless, things go high traction.

John of CRC posted the different weights of the three lubes earlier on the other RCTech thread. Send him an e-mail if you cannot find it on the separate "Gen-X 10" thread.

Bill
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:15 PM
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There is a product called green slime that has been used for dampener lube. It is still available at Tower Hobbies. It is gell like (OK, snot like) stuff so it might be a good replacement for extra heavy. Alas it is on order as well. I have not counted the screws. CRC does sell a red aluminum replacement set for "CRC cars". I have purchased a couple of these.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSF70&P=ML


Wide Pan Nerf Wings
I got the student (parent of student is OK) version of autocad. Seems to be fully featured. Here is a printout with dimensions for the Nerf Wing. It is slightly changed from the first prototype (pic one and two) to make it stronger. This model will fit a CRC wide pan with the STRANAHAN 3-link conversion. It is secured with two or three screws. The longest tab is a bumper that rests against that little battery support plate. In a few days I will post a similar model that will have a wide tab to replace the right rear battery support mini plate. This will give it 3 holes of attachement and have clearance (one hole removed) for the stock side link. CRC may be interested in producing that one. I will post it in a few days. In a few more days I will have a Nerf Wing plan for the World GT car. Again CRC may be interested. I have 3-d views which are not particularly helpful at this point. I have a .dwg CAD file as well if you are interested in this model nerf plate. Send me an e-mail in a day or two. I have not rotated or manipulated the image. I have included the edges of the paper. This may help you determine whether a 8x10 printout of my first image below is to scale. If so just paste the puppy on the graphite and cut and drill it out. If not make it so with a scale or % magnification setting.

Two of the holes have a #4 82 degree countersink coming from the bottom The left and right sides are thus different. This is not indicated on this 2-d drawing. The forward link hole and outer body post hole have countersinks from the bottom. This template should do both sides.

More testing to come tomorrow weather permitting. I will use a little more straight and get a mph reading on the World GT car. It really is a pleasing car to drive. I get great runtimes and a lot of practice in.

On to the "frustrum cone" (flat top) or would that be a "frustration cone". Thats the shape of a countersink.

Latest revision of CAD was posted Wednesday Morning at 10.06 AM. click on the CAD a second time for a larger clearer view.
john
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-nerf-wings-complete-resized.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-nerfwing-resized-rh.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-nerf-wing-correction003.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-01-2009 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by light View Post
why not just buy a kit from these guys
I'm not gonna lie. Stainless screws suck. I want to order some high quality replacement steel screws from tonys screws. My wrenching does not do well with soft screws. I don't really see weight being an issue. Besides, it will help get the weight lower anyway if they are all in the bottom of the chassis.

There is a product called green slime that associated used to sell for dampener lube. It is still available at Tower Hobbies. It is gell like (OK, snot like) stuff so it might be a good replacement for extra heavy. Alas it is on order as well. I have not counted the screws. CRC does sell a red aluminum replacement set for "CRC cars". I have purchased a couple of these.
I just happen to have a tube of that in my bag already. If I remember right, it is for O-ring lubricant for shocks though. I will poke around the other thread to see if I can find the comparison.
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TimV View Post
I'm not gonna lie. Stainless screws suck. I want to order some high quality replacement steel screws from tonys screws. My wrenching does not do well with soft screws. I don't really see weight being an issue. Besides, it will help get the weight lower anyway if they are all in the bottom of the chassis.
Stainless screws are perfect man! What are you talking about? I usually put my left nut into the screws when tightening things down. Hence why I hate the kit's aluminum screws. The stainless screws have been more than adequate for me. Plus I could use the weight since I run a 17.5 + 2s LiPo combo.

Originally Posted by TimV View Post
I just happen to have a tube of that in my bag already. If I remember right, it is for O-ring lubricant for shocks though. I will poke around the other thread to see if I can find the comparison.
Where did you get your lube from? I am looking to do a dampener rebuild on my car soon. It is starting to get a little bit soft when I go hard on turns then the car springs back. I can tell it is using only springs now. Oof!
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:49 PM
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There is nothing quite as good as the black oxide finish alloy steel screws from Associated, Losi, Custom Works, or McMaster.com. These are about grade 10.9. These are about twice the strength of most stainless screws that are available to the RC market. It is possible to make a high strength stainless screw, but I don't see them in the smaller sizes. That means the stainless screw is twice as easy to to strip out that 1/16 (somewhat undersize) socket. This usually is only a problem after long use on dissasembly. Titanium are a little better than stainless but still have 1/3 or more less strength in that socket area than steel. Last place goes to the hardened aluminum screws (our red screws) followed a long distance by the putty soft aluminum screws that come with protoform bodies to put the wing on. These sometimes strip that hex out going through a plastic hole into a plastic nut. I just throw them away now.

Now the ideal screw will probably be a screw with a Torx head. My long guns wear these already. Might be 5 or 10 years before we get them.

Customworks as well as associated sells a little assortement of screws. I have ordered a couple sets of these Custom Works screws at Tower Hobbies to take a look.

john

Last edited by John Stranahan; 03-31-2009 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 03-31-2009, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
I just throw them away now.

john
I just give them to my competitors...eh, eh, eh...
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Old 03-31-2009, 10:05 PM
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well heck, if you want really hard and durable screws, go with cubic zirconium (I spelled it wrong, I know). That stuff is as hard as diamonds. Making them into screws may be the super hard part.

Seriously though, I'd prefer steel screws. Something to add weight for LiPo setups.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:24 PM
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Speaking of ceramic screws. I noticed some white ones in 4-40 size at McMaster.com. The main advantage is a 3000 F temperature rating. That probably is a quite a brittle little screw.
john
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Old 04-01-2009, 06:28 PM
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World GT, Petit Lemans Edition, 2s LiPo 10.5

I had a shorter driving session today (10 minute), but I spent extra time cleaning another portion of the large track. I had basically the entire layout and a 160 ft straight except for a small part that was trenched near one timing loop. I was in the drivers stand again. This allowed me to reach full throttle on most of the short straights in spite of low traction. This is something I could not do from the ground. Low traction is the case where when the car does a spin an ejects a cloud of dust out the rear. This was from a few stubborn spots that had collected water and dust over the last months. It should be cleaner Saturday after my efforts today.

I was pleased with the selection of power plant for the large track. I had good speed on the straight and continuous acceleration rather than a jump to speed and constant speed for the rest. The 24/72 gear remains. Speeds topped out about 45 mph. I left my Radar at home though, this is an estimate. This compares with a record speed on the straight of 57 mph also done with a narrow pan.

I made changes to the setup first to compensate for ever shortening front tires and the need to stay at 6 mm to prevent serious chassis wear. I made 1 mm spacers by drilling larger holes in associated #8 aluminum washers. I think a 2 mm spacer is the smallest CRC spacer. The drilled spacers gave me 1 mm spacers. Next I guess I can remove one of the stiffener plates under the A-arm mounting plate. The pic shows the smaller front tires in the big wheel wells.

I increased front springs to white 4 lb/in cylindrical Wolfe springs. I increased the rear spring to a Silver 14.5 lb/in TC3 spring. I made both changes to keep the chassis wear to a tolerable level over the bumps.

I lowered the wing so that its top was even with the cab roof. This required trimming the (already broken) factory pylons that hold the original wing. I used short HPI mounts. This loosened the car a little on the sweeper and gave the effect of more steering. All else was good. I will stay with this for a while. I may need to raise the rear to 7 mm.

If I can find some low oder sunscreen, I plan to mix it with the Jack the Gripper to see if there is something to the good report on the 1/10 pan thread. I had tried previosly Jack the gripper (and paragon) followed by Suntan Lotion. Well everything did smell like I got back from the beach at the house but peformance was little improved over Jack the gripper by itself.

Full setup here.

Here is the ticket for those GFR body posts. Body Clip style. Temporarily out of stock at Lefthander-rc.com. The combination of aluminum sleeve and stiffer plastic makes this style of post keep the body in much better location as the car pulls g's on the track. There is less tire rub points on the body. Height setup is super nice. The body clip style will make the attachement to the body strong like regular body posts. Only drawback is the cost. For one car it is definitely a go for me, but with clips.

John
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-gen-x-10-nissan-gtr-after-some-use-002.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-01-2009 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 04-02-2009, 12:08 AM
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Bumper
Here are my opinions on bumpers.
Generally an oval pan car or road car will come with an elegant graphite bumper. I had very difficult conditions, but I managed to break mine on the Gen X 10 the first day. My oval experience watching other racers with various levels of experience was the bumper would last about 2 races. They get broken without you causing a wreck as a recently spun racer ends up broadside to you before you can steer even a little. Generally at the limit of traction in the turns there is little you can do except go wide.

Now this is for the club racer like myself. I have won many club races but I still get tangled up in crashes that are just unavoidable.

A bumper should provide a cushion zone with firm foam for about 3/4 of an inch. 1/8 inch is not enough to help much. Its main purpose for me is to save the suspension arms so that I can finish the race. So don't skimp on the foam width. If the bumper carries the two front body mounts, Then a bumper breakage causes a very poor finish as the body is loose on one corner and the bumper usually drags.

The bumper should look nice in photographs without the foam. After all this is what we look at when buying the car.

Here are a couple of solutions. The photo shows the current state of the Gen X 10. This plastic bumper is an associated part. The way that I am using it is just to support that very nice CRC firm Foam bumper. Well it does not look that good from the bottom.

Here is a CAD output of a bumper that I made a proposed redesign (for the Gen X 10) that, if produced by someone, would help a lot. It is shorter along the long axis of the car. Because the rigid foam bumper will cantilever in front of this bumper it can be made stiffer with smaller lightening holes. This one is likely to be over twice as strong as the original. Certainly you want the bumper to break before the chassis, but it would be nice never to break either graphite bumper or chassis.
I may make a prototype to test in graphite. Note that the middle arc of holes in the stock CRC crushed bumper above the CAD is preserved and becomes the outer arc of holes in the short bumper. These would be used with up to 5 short aluminum standoffs to adequately support the stiff foam toward its rear. The short standoffs is the setup I use now, but I have no crush space before the graphite bites the wood. The bumper looks mighty nice that way with red screws and reverse cone red washers.

That kydex bumper is nice when new but I have seen a used one and it is somewhat wadded up. It is too long. This short graphite bumper would last almost the life of the chassis with a foam replacement once in a while. I say almost because I had a 63 mph crash into a curb during a high speed run once. The chassis was split full length.

There is still plenty of room for my earless transponder up there. I prefer not to cut up the foam buper to mount it. I always put it on the chassis somewhere to help with balance. Have I ever finished a race where that 3 inches of transponder setback would have made a difference. No. Never, in probably hundreds of races. As you can see the leading edge of the chassis and the screws on the bumper will collect some scratches on the bumps outdoors. I would just as soon not have my transponder making first contact.

Now on the wide pans we go without bumpers some time. Wadding the long tapered body up in a crash protects the frame. It pops back in place for the most part less a little shine. I still like a flexible RPM bumper on these to protect the arms a little.


John
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-associated-foam-bumper-support.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-battle-axe-bumper003.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-02-2009 at 03:45 PM.
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