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Old 03-26-2009, 07:59 AM   #721
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romuald31-welcome to the thread. I suggest a 1.3" or 33mm rollout with a 56mm tire. 5.28 spur pinion ratio. After a 2 minute run use a temperature gun to read the motor. 160-170 F should be OK. Any hotter and you need a lower gear ratio.

I calculated these numbers from motor specifications. If you have run this setup please post a more accurate ratio.

Pink rears and purple fronts. When you become a seasoned veteran try the Magenta rears.
john

We have a World GT practice on a portion of the old asphalt this weekend. I will have gearing for a 10.5 as well as an outdoor setup available after this.

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Old 03-26-2009, 09:49 AM   #722
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Hello Guys.

I'm Cedric, form France.

I'm looking for a GENX10... if someone sells one, sends me a PM !

Thanx.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:59 PM   #723
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Originally Posted by kerb View Post
Hello Guys.

I'm Cedric, form France.

I'm looking for a GENX10... if someone sells one, sends me a PM !

Thanx.
Hi Cedric,

I understand that the Gen-X 10 cars in Europe have all metric hardware. You likely would want to get one of those as opposed to the non-metric cars we have here in the US.

New Gen-X 10 kits here are approximately $245-270 (US).

Would you use it on asphalt or carpet?

Bill
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Old 03-27-2009, 01:08 AM   #724
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Thanx for your reply.

It's for an asphalt use.

Imperial or metric hardware don't matter to me.

PS... I hope my English is somewhat understandable !
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Old 03-27-2009, 03:27 AM   #725
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I would also like to get hold of a good respectable net dealer that sends kits alteast withing EU, as the swedish importer is, well not upto speed... I have been waiting and trying to get a price for 3 sets of genx-10(wheels chassie body) for 2 weeks now!

somewehere in europe that selles CRC and actually has some for sale??
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:34 AM   #726
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https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=CRC1710

Try Stormer Hobbies

"Can I order from another country?

Stormer Racing specializes in overseas shipping. It is just as easy to order from us as it is to order by mail within your own country. "

John
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:03 PM   #727
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Thanx for your reply.

It's for an asphalt use.

Imperial or metric hardware don't matter to me.

PS... I hope my English is somewhat understandable !
kerb,

Truly, your English is far better than some Americans.

Forgive me because I only took Spanish in school...

I had to look up "Imperial" to understand that Europeans use that term for both the British and US systems of measurement. Thanks for that lesson because I thought it was always British.

But, our US Imperial is based on inches when it comes to the wrenches and tools that you would use on the screws and nuts in the kit. I assume that you don't typically have our US specific tools in France.

I agree with John S below that ordering from Stormer Hobbies is likely your best source. But, others may chime in here about that.

I have ordered CRC parts from CRC, Stormer, Superior, Ampdraw and Nexus to date. They all provided great service in the US.

Hope that this helps you in your quest for a CRC Gen-X 10. The best R/C pan car I have ever owned.

Bill
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Old 03-28-2009, 01:08 AM   #728
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I agree with Still Bill, I ordered many times from Stormer and never had trouble with it.

Cedric, you can PM me if you want some help, I'm french and a proud owner of GEN X-10 too.
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Old 03-28-2009, 01:20 AM   #729
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I asked Stormer on their shipping costs.
I await their response.
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Old 03-28-2009, 08:11 AM   #730
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Voila! (Can't find the accent mark; but, I think it's French...LOL)

Welcome to the group.

Cheers!
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Old 03-28-2009, 01:53 PM   #731
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I confirm, It's French !

Stormer still not reply yet...
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Old 03-28-2009, 05:02 PM   #732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerb View Post
I confirm, It's French !

Stormer still not reply yet...
It's the weekend. Hopefully, they are out racing somewhere...

Weather is beautiful in my part of the country.

Bill
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Old 03-28-2009, 06:33 PM   #733
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CRC Gen X 10, World GT, Petit Lemans Edition, 2sLiPo 10.5

Setup Outdoor aphalt 160 foot straight

I had a good long workout with the car today. The setup was really good at the end of the session. We had low traction today because of high winds that blew the dust back onto the track. We had also a Darkside I-force on hand so I can discuss his tires as well.

Tires
I went with CRC spec Rears, BSR purple fronts. From previous experience I knew these would work well and they did. We also tried on the I-Force Lilac rear and Lilac front from Jaco; too much front traction, considerable spins. We went to Lilac Rears and purple fronts. There was not much improvement; I was surprised, but I have not run the Lilac rears. Next pink rears purple fronts from Jaco. This was the best on his car, but I believe those CRC spec Rears would have helped him.

Wing
We were both experienced pan car racers. We both thought the tiny 45 mm chord wing would not suit the outdoor track. I tried one just for sport. It failed on the sweeper. I could not keep the rear end under the car. We had a sufficiently long straight and enough motor power to get up to about 45 mph. I put one of my favorite JConcepts Illusion wings on and the car was good on the sweeper now. I am afraid roar GT pancar rules had it right here, especially outdoors and not World GT.

Gear
I tried three gears starting with a 23/72. This worked out well. I got good speed using my normal throttle roll on for pans. I put on a 25 pinion. I got wild wheel spin later in the straight. I put on a 24 which was OK. None of these gears generated significant motor temperatures but traction was low, this limits motor temperature as well. Final gear 24/72

Ballast
I added lead to reach 42 ounces (our Petit Lemans mimimum). I am sure this helped with traction today.


Ride height was 6 mm front middle and back. The car sagged a little and made contact in the middle with use. I raised the center up with the center shock. The front support of the shock had some longitudinal play in the mount. I tightened the bolt up tighter on the washers. I had one especially bumpy section coming out of the sweeper. I had to trim body aft of the tires to clear here. You must get your body off the ground for the best performance. Rubber and foam grip better than LEXAN.


-1.5 degree front camber
4 degree front Caster
Front Narrow, wheel base middle
White helical (standard) Wolfe 4# front springs
Center shock, Associated TC3 Silver 14.5 lb/in, stock shock oil
RC 18 T side shocks with 35 weight oil
BSR purple fronts, CRC spec World GT rears
6 mm ride height front middle and back.


Problems
There are always some durability problems with any car.

GFR Body posts. Finally I have given these a good test. This is what happens. Eventually your screw head or washer is going to pop into the body. All is not lost here. Now take the plastic part off which has a nice formed (pointed) top. Mark it for two holes for body pins. Enlarge or smooth out the hole in the body for a pass through type of body post, the normal kind.
What you are left with is a nice looking standard body post with the awsome microadjusting feature of the 1 inch long red aluminum sleeves. You can set that body post height exactly where you want it with the body on on the setup board.

This is what I thought would happen, but I had to try them. So take your chassis and body photographs with them new, and then modify them one by one as they fail or all at once which is what I will do sometime. I will still buy more just for the adjustable feature and the fact you will only ever have to drill two 1/16 inch holes in each post. Mark with X-acto deep, then drill.

The GenX-10 front axle takes 4-40 nuts which differ from other makes use of 5-40 nuts on the Aluminum axles. I lost a wheel on the track because I had the wrong nut on the car.

The Gen X 10 worked great and had superior forward and cornering traction today in bad conditions. The car runs too long on one pack with this powerplant and low traction. Maybe 20 minutes. I never dumped a pack. The car was sweet! I did not break it.

Ok here is the funny story.
So we are standing on the track, we have moats on both sides from construction. I put a long board at the sweeper end to keep out of the mud moat at the building. The driver stand is locked. Now I took reverse out of the car by intention two days ago but it did not take. So we start gabbing about tire sauce. I brake and stop to gab; I can't do both. After quite a while my finger goes off brake for a moment and then back on brake. Normally this does nothing on a race car, but on a Novak Havok you rocket at full throttle backwards. I was in the middle lane. Chris still driving is watching all this with alarm. I finally see my car jumping the mud berm on the side of the track spewing mud to the side and landing in the ditch full of water. It is not pretty. An then I see Chris's car flying full speed in the other direction nose first and he ends up in a moat full of water as well. His attention had strayed from his moving car by mine. We had stayed out of the moats all damn day and then we started to gab.

Setup updated 4/1/2009

John

Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-03-2009 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 03-28-2009, 07:26 PM   #734
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CRC Gen X 10, World GT, Petit Lemans Edition, 2sLiPo 10.5

Ok here is the funny story.

John
Both informational AND funny.

Hope you come to the IIC in September...Got to meet you.

Bill
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Old 03-29-2009, 06:33 PM   #735
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Bill-Thanks. Thanks also for the invite. Travel is not in my budget nor possible healthwise for me.

CRC Gen X 10, Petit Lemans Editions, 2S LiPo, Novak 10.5

I had a really good day at the track today. We had shirt-sleeve weather, bright sun, low wind. I swept the track with a new device for me. It is a 32 inch manual sweeper with twin counter rotating roller brooms and twin circular side brooms. I could manage it well. In 20 minutes I did more good than 1 hour of sweeping by hand. I can't actually sweep for 1 hour by hand. It is good to use a blower after this device as its main purpose for me is to loosen that stubborn dust that will not move with the blower, but always sticks like mad to a foam tire. I put 6 more pounds of sugar on the layout. Traction was medium.

The water in the moats had subsided for the most part. My car survived the immersion yesterday with only a cleaning needed. Picture the car on TV that was driven into the lake as the wrecker pulls it out. Speedy Chris got to his and mine before I could. That was the condition of the car. Caked mud. Water pouring out. The only thing missing was the seaweed and the dead body. The electronics were OK. Some Windex cleaned up the rest on a wet rag.

Changes to the Setup
As I make changes I will update my posted setup in my previous post.
I got in 40 glorious minutes of track time on the Gen X 10. My spec pac which contains 3400 mA-H would run the car for 10 minutes today. My 5400 pack would thus have run it a long 16 minutes. Traction was good enough to quicken the car quite a bit over yesterday. My gear remained at 24/72. Motor temps were only 110F. We are still cool for Houston. I was getting the performance I wanted out of the motor. Very good and quick acceleration up to speed on the straight with no wasteful tire spin. Just starting to get into very good throttle mid short straights on the track as traction improved with use.

I was getting slightly less steering traction than I wanted on the sweeper. I went from the stock red progressive .021 inch wire spring to a blue helical (standard) Wolfe 3# Spring with .020 inch wire. This was just the ticket. I may go one stiffer to white 4# to be sure.

I was getting some bounce of the rear tire into the air on the straight and the latter portion of the sweeper. As the tire cannot grip while airborne this needed attention. I went from a .057 inch stiff black Losi JRXS stock spring to a .049 inch wire Green Associated TC3/TC5 12 lb/in spring. I may go a little stiffer as I had some contact. I would have used some blue 17.5 lb/in springs, but they are on my touring car. Problem solved. The tires stayed in good contact now everywhere.

I lost the slightest amount of steering from this center spring change, but I thought there was enough left.

Last problem: If I took the inner line on the straight the bumps were rougher. The front dam was making contact as the car came down. I could see and hear all of this, as I was driving from the ground on the end of the sweeper. The drivers stand was locked. The holy key was in Dallas.

Normally I would just increase the front shock oil stiffness, but I looked under the body and, DAMN, there were no front shocks. So instead I put a little less droop in the car. I tightened each kingpin up one full turn and then retightened the little brass setscrew. That was pretty convenient. I had used blue locktite on these brass set screws so I still had them. I checked travel. Silky smooth. Kingpins unbent. Axles unbent. Great. So what did this do. When the car hit a bump now the hood does not go quite so high and thus does not come down quite so hard. Instead of bam bam bam, I got tick tick tick. That is OK on the straight. You can tell that dam on this body is doing a great job of keeping that front end planted. That will be very important later when our straight increases from the 140 ft I used today to 240 ft. I expect good speeds from the car with that super long straight. Droop was still at 1/16 inch. You can easily eyeball droop just by setting the car down and looking at how much space is between the lower arm and the steering block/arm (knuckle). A little less droop made the car more responsive in the infield at the expense of maybe a little steering traction.

I started yesterday with full size tires. There is noticeable wear now, I rotated the fronts once. It is really nice being able to use all the rubber you payed for.

Kingpin Pookey/slime- I have tried this on our outdoor track. You put this on the kingpins lightly (you do a similar thing with dampeners). Here is what happens on the kingpin. First, I barely notice any effect on performance, then I notice after 10-15 minutes of running that the whole front end has become black and nasty. If you use the removed kingpin to move the lower ball in its socket it is all gritty and hard to move. That costs you dearly in the traction department. So there will be no snot on my front kingpins outdoors. They were so silky smooth after 2 hours of runtime today. I had a similar experience with the dampeners outdoors. Before the pack was finished they had so loaded up with grit that they popped off the ball on one side. You could feel the grit and lack of movement. Well that is why my car wears RC18T rear shocks for side shocks instead of dampeners. Indoors there is way less grit. On other outdoor tracks there may be less grit. That is a really easy $28 shock upgrade, and well worth it outdoors.

What a great run today. Nice car. I love not having to tape in the battery.



Damage-Scratch another graphite bumper. I wish we got something a little softer as stock equipment. See any touring car as an example. Even a smallish graphite bumper that is one 3/4 inch shorter all around the radius would support that awsome hard foam bumper well. the car would then have a 3/4 inch cushion before solid meets solid. That Kydex bumper that is available should fit the bill, but I would like it to be shorter as well. (I think I read graphite bumpers were illegal in the Roar Rules). This was not a body post related failure, just a hard crash into the (what boards). Boards are down for resurfacing the track. I got a nice gouge into the chassis yesterday by sliding backwards and sideways into a 2 inch metal pipe. A nerf wing would have prevented this damage. I moved the pipe today. Conditions were really difficult yesterday. Not too bad today but we had some water seepage at the end of the straight. Lack of traction from a water spot caused the wreck that killed the bumper. My RPM bumpers survive this abuse. The resurfacing will fix these problems with the track. The car handled them all very well unless I let my concentration lapse from the long runtimes.

3 GFR body posts are drilled now for standard pins. The other two wear screws. I am happier with the Remove time for the body now in spite of using a power driver to take out the screws. It is substantially shorter. I think of all those just before the race screw ups that keep everyone waiting.

Pic Gen X 10 after about 22 heats worth of use. Note changes. Antenna on short stalk instead of wrapped around receiver. This was neccesitated by the lack of a drivers stand. Range is reduced. Spektrum capacitor added. I was getting some shutdowns before the battery should have been empty. This helped. Electronics are 1/2 inch up on little platforms made from the old short side plates. Holes are already there. Lead ballast and rear electronics gave this car an edge over a very similarly made I-force. Front tires are wearing even at -1.5 degrees camber. 3 of the GFR body posts now wear body pins instead of screws. The Hitec mighty mini is surviving some abuse.

John
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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-gen-x-10-after-some-use-resized.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 03-30-2009 at 10:44 AM.
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