Boomer

Hey - empirical evidence is always better than just futzing with things and then theorizing about what they did.

Theory regarding why we thought the cutouts gave better balance - perhaps without them, and with such a very high-traction surface (asphalt with tons of 1/8th scale laying down TONS of rubber) we misinterpreted the results. . . Heck, without a wind tunnel or anything, it's entirely possible! All we knew was that the Peugots work better for us with the cutouts cut.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Boomer-Thanks for the additional discussion. Your description of the traction available may be the best clue as to when to make the cutouts; when there is high traction. Better mechanical traction would make you perform better with slightly less aerodynamic downforce.

There are new posts on the previous page. I really like looking at this pic of the new painted wide pan full screen.

Lotus111-I took a look at a couple more of your videos, rebuilding the diff, rear chassis setup. Nice. I need to know just a little more German than I do!

John

Psycho_

iTrader: (1)

Searching and searching all days.... There is no way to get foam donuts for 1/10th pan car??? I'm getting crazy looking for and I don't find nothing at a reasonable price... Any way the get them?

Lotus111

Thanks John, well as I've written in a other tread I will do a translation in English to, same Videos but with an English audio track.
But I first need to finish the project in German because I still have a lot of ideas to but into the Videos Haha... Will I ever finish

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for the posts. Lotus-No it is never ending.

Psycho- Here are some pan foam donuts at RC4less.com

http://rc4less.com/1/10_RC4LESS_Pan_.../c7/index.html

Also take a look at CRC spec (World GT Spec) tires. They are at a good price and perform well on my wide pan.

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...category_id=71



Here is a pic outside of the new wide pan from the top. The duct is from a BB box in black thicker plastic this time. The duct is very functional at reducing speed cotrol temperatures in high temps.
John

Psycho_

iTrader: (1)

Hello John...

Here in my local shop (Spain) I can buy rear Jaco tires at 17 USD

I want to test RC4LESS tires but for buying only one pair:
United States Postal Service (1 x 0.25lbs) (Priority Mail International (6 - 10 Days)) $27.50

Is really an expensive cost and I wouldn't pay it....

The Spec tires doesn't work great on our conditions... We run outdoor on asphalt circuit, with 7.5 motor and 7,4v lipos... We are just running with Aqua, Green and Pink compounds on rear tires.....

Have a nice day

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

I usually ship in a Priority Mail flat rate box over seas. It is about $13.00. Maybe RC4less would be willing to do the same. Quite a few donuts would fit in this box.

john

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

New Transverse Shock Tower 3-link Pan Road Car, Gen X 10

Here is an update of my 3-link rear suspension. This time it is on a Gen X 10 which retains many of its nice features such as bottom load inline battery Tray; Expandability to 200 mm or to Wide Pan with a CRC kit; Pro Strut Front Suspension, Gen X 10 graphite bumper to be protected by the CRC stiff foam bumper.

This suspension should work great outdoors. I have not tried it on carpet but expect good results there also with more powerful motors.

New parts which differ from the oval car are a Hypedrive Pro III Transverse upright, shock towers, and body mounts. Of course the front is all Gen X 10. The pod is CRC, one generation older than Gen X. The bottom plate is from the Pantoura. The only mods consisted of Drilling and countersinking graphite (6 holes, 4 countersunk on chassis, two not countersunk on graphite shock tower bits to move them inward). I also through drilled and tapped, 2.5 mm, some aircraft rod stops for the shock lower mount.

The front end came out nice. I used some reverse cone red aluminum washers from axial on the bumper. I used 5 short CRC red aluminum standoffs inside the bumper. I also used 10 mm axial standoffs which are threaded 3 mm to raise the front of the lower links up.

Axial AXA1102 Reverse Cone washer 3mm hole for flat head screw.(5) $5.99
Axial AXA1360 7 x 10 mm standoff Red Aluminum Threaded 3mm $4.79
Hyperdrive HD7326 Pro 3 Solid Cross Brace $28.00
Hyperdrive HD7320 Pro 3 Shock and Body Mounts $13.00
CRC 1403 Red Anodized Short Standoffs, 4-40 thread $4.00


Previously posted parts that I used in this project
GFR 1018R Red Aluminum Base, Body Post, Screw type $29.00

Shocks for the Transverse Shock Tower 3-link
ASC 21082 Ball studs for Associated RC18T $8.59
Associated 21216 RC 18T front shocks, Transverse Shock Tower Pan $18.39
Duratrax DTXC4212 Locknut 2.5 mm $3.59

CRC 4246 Lowered left pod plate $17.00
CRC 4247 Lowered left motor plate $16.00
CRC 1365 Graphite top plate CRC cars $9.99
CRC 1366 Graphite Pantoura Bottom Plate V3 $13.50
Traxxas 5539X Jato Links set of 6 $28.99
Great Plains GPMQ4306 plated wheel collars for lower shock mount $1.59


John

Boomer

Why no dual-a-arm front suspension, John?

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

It meets World GT specs at the moment. The goal here was a nice looking car that someone else might be able to make with just a little custom work. Another set of data on the car would be welcome. I am sold on the 3-link design for outdoor asphalt. It may get a new front suspension later on.

Electronic Install
Sphere Comp with the latest Worlds Cooling set installed (except the fan is a lower powered Novak due to breakage of the LRP fan).
Novak 10.5 R LiPo
Spektrum Pro Receiver


Since this car has good power with the 10.5, I decided to mount electronics rearward and because there is no other rearward option, high. I countersunk the two rear most screws on the top deck and installed flat head screws. This gave me a nice platform.
Note that with 13.5/4 cell the electronics should be farther forward.

I plan to use a body painted in Nascar Road Race colors.

John

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

Excellent idea.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Rick-done. New pic above.

Installing a body with screw type posts

Trim the body at the factory trim line.

Adjust height of middle front and back posts so body bottom is even with the bottom of the chassis.

Do the middle front post first. Make sure the center of the front wheels is centered in the factory marked trim hole (this hole is usually small) or make sure the top of the tire is at the tallest point of the fender bulge. I use an X-acto knife to start the hole and ream it to the size of a #4-40 screw. There are very pointy tapered reamers that work also.

Second trim the rear wheel wells, so the body does not touch the tires. This is important as this body will not center otherwise. Now center the body over the rear tires and install the rear body posts.

Raise the two front posts up. I required an 8x32 spacer, black plastic nut, underneath to have enough reach. Now install the two fronts.

I set this Gen X 10 front end to the minimum width. This lets you leave a little bit of wheel arch even with these full size tires. They will turn with clearance because of the narrow width. They will go into full bump with clearance. If you want to run the front wide then trim the tires smaller.

When you get to the track you will end up trimming the front corners to allow for no rubbing in roll. Also in front of the back tires or behind the back tires may rub. Be prepared to trim a little here.

This is a Toyota HD from Protoform. Yes it is an Oval body. I plan to run it on-road. Why? Well it does have the electric speed record on Mikes-HobbyShop.com's outdoor track. 57mph. That is reason enough. Another reason is that it has good downforce front and back. Additionally I just like the looks of this type of paint job. The body does have some Assymetry which helps it on the oval but it is nothing drastic enough to hurt it on-road in my opinion. It's better than other supercar bodies I have tried.

And yes when noboby is looking, except maybe Jeff, I plan to stick the 3.5R in it and get a new speed record with this car on the brand new asphalt. Mostly in public, I will run a 10.5 in this narrow car and the CRC wide pan and hope for partners to develop.

Wide Pan Cooling Duct
I finally made a cooling duct that looked OK. It looked good black. I had some flanges on the side to screw it down. These did not look good. It was better to trim these to a minimum and use one small square flange underneath the body instead of on top; the new hidden flange is located where the red screw is. The flange on the other side can slip under the body. The section at the back of the scoop rests on the body and seals it and keeps the scoop from falling downward. This plastic BB box happened to be tapered and textured. It looks OK unless you get real close. This duct should last several bodies. Alternatively use a clear duct. I have one on the custom wide pan that's clear and looks OK. I make this mod to preload speed control weight to the rear for better forward traction with powerful motors and for controlling speed control temperature in our hot summer.

John

s13evo

iTrader: (8)

hey john, not using the 235mm wide kit anymore on the gen10x?

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I think there is one of each now...

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

There is a new pic and red text in my previous post.

There is one of each. I am using the narrow car with a more moderate power package. Run time should be huge. It may attract some people that don't like to run super fast. The track is a big 1/8 scale track with an even longer straight after renovation completes, so the 10.5/LiPo/Narrow car won't be too fast.

Thanks for the posts.

John