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Old 01-25-2009, 07:21 PM   #541
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Ivan
Looks like your in SoCal. Please check out www.southwesttour.com for oval racing in SoCal. The series races on everything from a small carpet oval to the Encino Velodrome and everything in between. The SWT season starts on Feb 21 at the Encino velodrome. There is a message board on the site. Also Hot Rod Hobbies in Suagus races oval on the first sunday of the month


The KSG 3 is a good car for oval.

If you have any questions you can contact me at [email protected]

Steve
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Old 01-25-2009, 07:37 PM   #542
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Ivan
Looks like your in SoCal. Please check out www.southwesttour.com for oval racing in SoCal. The series races on everything from a small carpet oval to the Encino Velodrome and everything in between. The SWT season starts on Feb 21 at the Encino velodrome. There is a message board on the site. Also Hot Rod Hobbies in Suagus races oval on the first sunday of the month


The KSG 3 is a good car for oval.

If you have any questions you can contact me at [email protected]

Steve
How you doing Steve, you don't remember me form back in the day when I raced with you & the fella's at some of different tracks? think hard....
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Old 01-25-2009, 11:44 PM   #543
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Sorry Ivan

Can't put a face with the name...
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:16 AM   #544
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I think it was the oil thickness. Heavier is not better. When the motor would load up under heavy acceleration, the shock was slow to react and put the rear end back on the ground. Lightening the oil increased the rebound rate and removing the flashing made the motion of the shock consistent and smooth. Now when the motor/chassis recoils after hard acceleration out of a corner, both rear tires are on the ground. The diff was coming loose on its own. After monkeying with the nylon lock nut all weekend, it was shot. I could hand tighten it before I tossed it out.
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Old 01-26-2009, 08:01 AM   #545
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lilJohn-Thanks for the response.

Here is the promised set of links. I evaluated all of these items before the car hit the track. Especially important is having a smooth diff and a free moving front end. The post on diffs here includes a short breakin procedure which I use but did not repost recently. Note there is quite a bit of activity and answers to previous posts with a new pic on the previous page.

This particular front end was a bag front end I had purchased earlier from CRC. It needed absolutely no handwork and ended up very smooth. NICE.

More on building the Diff, including a quick breakin procedure
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4462776-post4.html

Why no separate Thrust bearing is needed on the diff. Note the roughness noted in this post was due to an aftermarket thrust bearing. When removed and carbide balls were used the diff was very smooth.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4465543-post11.html

Pic of the All Aluminum body Posts
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4470465-post28.html

Assembling and massaging the CRC pro strut front end
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4472940-post34.html

Checking and eliminating Bump Steer
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4474580-post40.html

Narrow Gen X 10 review
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4510221-post83.html

Checking Side to side balance and Tweak using scales, Includes Photos. Shows a completely different electronics install for stock and superstock motors.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4524031-post99.html

Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-26-2009 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:24 AM   #546
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Sorry Ivan

Can't put a face with the name...
Its been a long time Ask Buck van patten if he remembers me...or Erik steenoven or Larry ruby..
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:30 AM   #547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
lilJohn-Thanks for the response.

Here is the promised set of links. I evaluated all of these items before the car hit the track. Especially important is having a smooth diff and a free moving front end. The post on diffs here includes a short breaking procedure which I use but did not repost recently. Note there is quite a bit of activity and answers to previous posts with a new pic on the previous page.

Note that this particular front end was a bag front end I had purchased earlier from CRC. It needed absolutely no handwork and ended up very smooth. NICE.

More on building the Diff, including a quick breakin procedure
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4462776-post4.html

Why no separate Thrust bearing is needed on the diff. Note the roughness noted in this post was due to an aftermarket thrust bearing. When removed and carbide balls were used the diff was very smooth.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4465543-post11.html

Pic of the All Aluminum body Posts
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4470465-post28.html

Assembling and massaging the CRC pro strut front end
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4472940-post34.html

Checking and eliminating Bump Steer
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4474580-post40.html

Narrow Gen X 10 review
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4510221-post83.html

Checking Side to side balance and Tweak using scales, Includes Photos. Shows a completely different electronics install for stock and superstock motors.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4524031-post99.html
Printing these and filing them. This is a must have.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:16 PM   #548
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Here is a pic of the new 3 link project. Notice the extremely nice looking pod side plates. These are CRC products pre Gen X and are a direct fit for the Associated parts using all the same screw holes. Nice upgrade by itself if your parts are scratched up.

CRC 4246 Lowered left pod plate $17.00
CRC 4247 Lowered left motor plate $16.00

The main difference between this project and my previous 3-link cars is the transverse shock tower structure. It might end up looking pretty nice and may weigh less. I plan to get a new chassis to put it on. Those shocks may cant outward from the top when I am finished. Still tinkering with it. The Panhard bar will be shorter than my previous cars. Since the roll center and handling seem to be little affected by its position on our cars then the decreased roll center change with roll of a long bar is really not needed; in other words the car should corner left and right about the same even if the Panhard bar is short.

This is a CRC Pantoura bottom plate and a
CRC top plate.

CRC 1365 Graphite top plate CRC cars $9.99
CRC 1366 Graphite Pantoura Bottom Plate V3 $13.50


These are Traxxas Jato Links

The car will meet World GT specs.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-3-link-project.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-26-2009 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:31 PM   #549
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I just noticed the the CRC hub adapters from the widening kit for the Gen X 10 are available separately.

CRC1726 Replacement hub adapters for the Gen X 10 Widening Kit $29.99

I had used one of these adaptors recently to offset my oval car more than usually possible. Leaving me with only one adaptor. Or a couple of oval guys could split a set of hubs if they wanted to try this mod. The one I stole off the wide pan car may be able to be replaced with a wide pan axle and 1/4 inch axle spacers from KSG. I have these coming for a trial.

IRS 2101 Wide Pan Ships as a Graphite Axle, described as fiberglass $28.00
KSG 2120R 1/4 inch ID axle spacer set, includes .062,.125,.187,025 $9.99



I also ordered a set of these KSG RED 8x32 nuts. They will have the same function for me as the blue associated nylock nuts, but in a red color to match CRC stuff.

HD 2516 Red low profile 8x32 Nylock nuts $4.50


I have been trying to order this red Aluminum cover to cover my 4 cell GTB controller. I talked with lefthander-RC.com today and they said Hyperdrive was pondering whether to make another batch. I told them I was interested. If you are, as well, send lefthander an e-mail and then they can request a batch.

HD GFR 1020 Red Alumimum cover for GTB $20.00 (I think the GFR is a mistake on the website)

Kingpins
Whenever you take a shaft and thread it. The weakest area will be right at the start of the threads near the smooth shaft. If you are bending CRC kingpins here and this is causing DNF's you might try cutting a standard kingpin and just secure it with the setscrew and blue locktite on the setscrew. No loctite on the shaft. Leave a snapring groove at the bottom. Drill the axle block 1/8 inch or better yet ream it 1/8 inch. A drill will slihtly ovesize the hole a reamer will not. You will still have the droop adjustment feature. I know that one of our racers used to secure his kingpins with the setscrew on the back of inline Associated axles so it should stay put. The strength of the kingpin will be increased markedly by not having threads. I have not tried this yet, but may on my wide pan later when the asphalt is done.
By all means use blue loctite on the little brass set screw in the photo with threaded or unthreaded kingpins or it will be left out on the track.

You can never get enough red on your CRC car.
John
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-crc-pro-stru-front-end-setscrew-007.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-27-2009 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 01-27-2009, 08:27 PM   #550
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New 3 link with transverse shocks

Here are a couple of pics of the progress. I made no new parts. I only put 4 new holes in this chassis. The suspension feels really good and smooth. I used the stock height of the Darkside Shock Tower on these pics which will suit my World GT 1/10 scale car better. It looks like a go. I'll get a new electric speed record with it on our new asphalt I am sure. The front suspension will be CRC prostrut, the chassis Gen X 10. The shock tower may change to Hyperdrive to fit the hole pad spacing available in the Gen X chassis.
I posted most of the part numbers previously. There is room for a center mounted LiPo for road or a side mounted LiPo for Oval.
John
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-new-3-link-002.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-new-3-link-side-view.jpg  
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:42 PM   #551
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There is a new post just above.

Integy, Eagle Models Camber Guage, Integy Setup Board

Some new parts came in. First an Integy, Eagle Models Camber Guage in puple Aluminum. That is a very fine looking instrument and is also compact enough for pan cars and my toolbox. As a bonus you can measure the tire diameter in mm. The Duratrax and RPM plastic guages are quite a bit larger for larger tires.
I have used one of these Integy setup boards since they were first produced. No finer one is made. It has three leveling feet. The measuring surface is a thick plastic sticker. Years later you can replace the sticker if all else is OK. Clean the top with orange oil to remove oily stains.
Note that CRC has put two tiny holes one in front and one at the rear of the bottom pod plate to help you center the car on the setup board. Then you can make small adjustments with axle shims to make the car even width left and right or "square".

Pan Car Front Tire Camber
On pan cars we tend to adjust the camber until the tires are wearing flat. This is the most cost effective way to use the tires. This left front tire is wearing well and has 1.5 degrees of negative camber.
John
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-camber-guage.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-27-2009 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:52 AM   #552
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The graphite rear axles to not like solid objects. We redid our layout last night. I was the first car out and many of the new corners had little to no traction. I found the exposed end of a PVC tube and caught just enough of the rear tire to sheer the axle right at the diff pin. John @ CRC has an order waiting to approve.... We fixed the exposed section and traction was coming up after only the next couple cars. Next time I'll run something a little more bulletproof like my TA TC3 first.

John,

Per your last post. I'm running -1* camber and showing nice even tire wear also. The CRC tires for this car are absolutely perfect.
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:17 PM   #553
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Yes. I miss the Nerf Wings that protected the axle on a 200mm car. If there were some on this car, and they were of a generous size, I would probably find a way to stick electronics on them on the wide car.


Transverse Shock Tower 3-link, Oval Version
Since this car was almost ready to go I decided to finish it up for a test on the oval. Everything fits like a charm. I have about 1 mm of droop with these Gold RC18T front shock springs. The spring rate feels perfect. The roll stiffness is higher than my other three links due to the shocks wide position outboard. This should make the system work better on high grip surfaces and carpet. I'll give it a test. An offset pod back end could easily be built for this car. I'll see if its needed. As these 3-link projects progress, the movement is toward lighter, more common materials, easier manufacture. I am very pleased with this one as the only custom part was 4 new holes in the chassis. I would prefer the links hookup to the bottom plate farther back on the car. With a full offset pod this would be possible only with a shorty type of left side plate found on the superior Spectre Car. More detailed photos on request. Weight 39.5 ounces with body.

In the pic you can see that I have taped the LiPo laterally to a longitunal strip of graphite. It is very secure this way. The graphite part is. This will ge the popsicle stick out of your older chassis as you adapt it to LiPo. I see more and more LiPo at the big oval races. 21.5 LiPo is very popular indoors on carpet.

CRC 1273 Battery cross brace, Can be used to tape in LiPo laterally $4.49


Transverse Shock Tower 3-link, Road Version

I had intended a road car with this back end. I have a chassis on the way to fully complete a road car with CRC's very nice battery compartment (The bottom battery plates are from the Losi JRXS type r) chassis, and pro strut front end.

pics: Be sure and click on the pics a second time after they pop up. This will enlarge and clears them up greatly on my computer. Second photo is the car with the rear at full droop. I have 6 mm of travel available. Pod does not move down, it follows the road, instead the chassis drops down on a bump.
John
Attached Thumbnails
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-transverse-shock-tower-3-link-002.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-transverse-shock-tower-3-link-side-view.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-28-2009 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 01-28-2009, 05:42 PM   #554
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Nerf wings, I'll put that on my wish list to CRC.
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Old 01-30-2009, 08:35 AM   #555
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John ... hope this is okay with you

I have a SpeedMerchant Pro 10 for sale. We were going to run this class at my track but .................

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post5363741
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