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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 07-21-2008, 02:27 PM
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John, you have a PM.
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Old 07-21-2008, 02:52 PM
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Thanks for the info, I'll go with the 10.5 first. As for the body, I used two the Saleen and the Corvette. UPS just arrived with last weeks order and now have the protoform lola body. I will be looking at picking up some of the bodies you mentioned on my next order. For now I will be testing the lola out in a couple of weeks.
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Old 07-21-2008, 07:47 PM
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Get a set of these blue Associated Nylock nuts ASC6943 and use one on the diff. It won't be getting loose all the time and spoil a race.
john


with any RC car these days you must collect a small set of spares that will keep you going. You should be resupplying the spares in between events.

Quante-another thought on your prototype is to raise the Panhard bar to just clear the battery pack. This puts your battery weight back where it needs to be. Handling seems unaffected by this move of the Panhard bar up. You may find there is not quite enogh space to lay things out like you have them lengthwise.

Pic Peugeot 905 B One of my favorites.
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-peugeot-905-b-ii-005-resized.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-21-2008 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 07-21-2008, 07:56 PM
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That was the first thing I picked up after reading this thread and have four more in the bag. I think I may have just not tighten during my regular maintenance during the week? I even doubting I may have forgotten to put the screw back on the pivot as I did take that apart during the week as well?

P.S. I am building my spare parts, box one came in today and box two will be here tomorrow only spent about $175 in bodies and spare parts.
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Old 07-21-2008, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Get a set of these blue Associated Nylock nuts ASC6943 and use one on the diff. It won't be getting loose all the time and spoil a race.
john


with any RC car these days you must collect a small set of spares that will keep you going. You should be resupplying the spares in between events.

Quante-another thought on your prototype is to raise the Panhard bar to just clear the battery pack. This puts your battery weight back where it needs to be. Handling seems unaffected by this move of the Panhard bar up. You may find there is not quite enogh space to lay things out like you have them lengthwise.

Pic Peugeot 905 B One of my favorites.
Hi John,

I also thought about that but I want to keep the option of converting to a normal link car open and to do this I cant move the battery more to the rear as it is now. I have enough space to add some lead at the complete rear of the car since I cannot mount an esc or receiver between the side links and the battery.

But I'm glad to hear you thinking about my car too
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:39 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
Ok short update on my test run at the track this past Sunday. I did get some parts in including the rear spring I lost on my first test run. I totally forgot there was a race on Sunday so I had to wait a couple of hours before it opend up for practice. Ok so I just on the track and all of a sudden four 1/8 nitors jump on the track, damm talk about intimidating. I ran the long staright away but as them came up from behind I move to the pits a few times Traction was ok since track was treated but somehow I lost power on my third run and could not figure out why I came to a snail pace. I brought her in and looked her over and figured out the nylon nut was loose so I was not getting any power from the diff. Once tighten I was back on the track and next thing I noticed was my steering loss which caused me to hit one of the wooden board cauing a crack on my front cf bumper (waiting on a foam one today). Second I noticed that I was missing a screw on the upper plate that holds it at the standoff causing a crack on my upper plate and calling it day after only 40 minutes Well that makes two test runs and have learned much from them. I do believe a need a faster motor especially with the 1/10 1/8 nitors at this track. The 17.5 is no longer fast enough for me and might have to go with a 4.5. I will most likely pick the 4.5 and 10.5 from novak in the next week and test these two motors. Until more of the extra parts arrive I probably will not have any practice this coming week as my two suppliers take 5 days for parts to arrive.
Espresso - go for reliability over speed. Use the slower motor to find what parts you're working loose or whatever.

You're not going to break as many parts as a TC will - our arms are shorter and more robust, and we just don't HAVE as many parts as a TC. . . so don't worry too much about breakage (exception - if you're running a T-bar car. . . consider those "sacrificial" and get good at changing them. )

But don't up the motor so much that you can't control it.

Best advice - read over John's thread containing all of his motor research. Go with the ones he's found are most reliable and start with his rollouts and go from there. Don't reinvent the wheel (again).
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Old 07-22-2008, 09:31 AM
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Light-thanks for the nice pic.
Boomer-Thanks for the post. I may as well repeat some of that research from the Pantoura thread here. The guys in Europe are running wide pans on large 1/8 scale tracks. The guys promoting World GT class conveniently forget all those guys that have kept 1/10 pan alive. I had raced my wide pan with the Nitros on a similar long 1/8th scale track. What I wanted in a motor is one whose power band matches the traction of the pan car. If you take a look at my recent Peugeot photo you can see that I run the maximum 2 inch chord wing. (Also run the side dams for high speed stability). You are giving up a lot of forward traction if you don't. When the car reaches about 25 mph this wing and spoiler really starts to bring in the rear traction. Thats where you want a good power peak or good punch (not at 10 mph). I really like the Novak 3.5 for this reason; it has a soft bottom end. The wide pan car likes a 3.5. It has a soft bottom end. This keeps from breaking the tires loose. It helps you roll on the throttle smoothly. You reach full throttle about mid straight. Gear it 90/12. With this low gear I can pull the front wheels up in spots on high traction days. This maximises forward traction by transfering weight to the back. Also consider the 4.5 at about a 90/14. It has more bottom end punch, though, and will break the rear tires loose. I run it with Lipo and an LRP Sphere comp TC edition with no thermal problems. You don't have to overgear these two motors to get the speed you want. It is very much OK not to use full throttle on every little straight in the layout.
The LRP 3.5 is too punchy, more like Novaks 4.5. The LRP 3.0 cannot be geared low enough on a pan car from reports I have seen.
I ran the Novak 3.5 on our short 175 foot oval recently in the wide pan. It was very manageable. I could just get full throttle on each of the very short straights. Wicked fast lap times.
When I was brand new to pan I had a 6.5 and a then purchased a 3.5 on a hunch (I expected a soft bottom end like a 9 turn). I was right, the 3.5 with soft bottom end made the car more manageable.
Now as far as the car flying. Do you see the Nitros leaving the ground at all. If you have bumps like this the car may go airborne. I talked about ways to
prevent this earlier in this thread.
John

Quante-go for the Gold. Forget that center pivot. You will never go back. Maximise the 3-link peformance.

pic Peugeot 905b fullsize winning Lemans
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-peugeot-905b-full-size.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-22-2008 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:02 AM
  #203  
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Hey 1/10 pan car guys where do you get your tires from?
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:05 AM
  #204  
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Stormer has Jacos on black rims by Trinity (just a few GRP's on yellow wheels left in the TRC brand)
LeftHander-RC.com has BSR on black wheels.
RC4less.com has foams on orange wheels made by GRP
Sadly my GRP suppliers, on yellow wheels (Tower, Great Plains) have quit supplying. Maybe they will start up again.
John

See page 1 of the thread for more links.
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:13 AM
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Thanks im trying to get the guys out here in CA to start running 1/10 pan again. my idea is to get everyone to buy one and then the new protoform mulsanne body so we can have a another class to run other than tc.
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Old 07-23-2008, 05:57 AM
  #206  
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Hi everyone,

I have decides to put the Battle Axe up for sale. I have not changed anything since I got it back from John. You can see it at: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...91#post4665491

I decided to stay with my Type R as my track hasn't real decided if it's going to do oval or not.

John ... thank you for all your help in testing it.

Rick
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Old 07-24-2008, 07:24 PM
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Racer X1, Rick - Good luck.

I thought I would post a picture of my fleet and describe the major bits on the car.

In the foreground is either an oval car or with only modest changes a World GT class pan car. 13.5 brushless, 4 cell, GRP Magenta rears, GRP pink fronts, Toyota (NASCAR) body by Protoform. Novak 4 cell speed control. It holds the oval fast lap record at this time as well as the oval race lap records. Suspension is 3-link rear and double a-arm front with damping.

In the mid ground is my custom made wide pan. 3 link rear suspension, twin A-arm front suspension with damping. The rear is a full 235 mm wide and the front is at 212 mm. LRP TC edition speed control. Novak 3.5 brushless. 4000 mA-h LiPo. When there is high traction this car is wicked fast. Speed on the straight exceeds the 1/10 two speed nitro cars, just under the 1/8 scale open mod Nitro speeds on the straight. It holds our electric lap record of 17.8 s. I have not run it in the super traction during a three day race. This time might be improved on such a day. BSR pink rears, BSR purple fronts for a test. Should work great. I normally run GRP's in the same colors.
Current test is a front diffuser built into a large foam bumper. I should have good traction Sunday to test it.

Last is an Associated TC5. Speed control is an LRP TC edition. Motor is an LRP 3.5 brushless. Tires are Takeoff CS32's. I had modified this car with RC18T shocks at one time and got it down to 44 ounces or so to compete for best lap with the pan car. 4000mA-h LiPo. It achieved 18.4 second lap with good but not super traction on the first day of a 3 day race. People are amazed at the acceleration of this car as they are with the wide pan. Both these cars will lift the front wheels on one short straight from good rear traction and powerful motors.

It has been raining from the huricane. No practices.

John
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-fleet-002.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-24-2008 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:11 PM
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my LHS doesn't have one, suppliers don't have them, whos hobby shop has a crc gen x 10 in stock. i may not want to wait it middle of next month for one
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by lidebt2 View Post
Hi everyone,

I have decides to put the Battle Axe up for sale. I have not changed anything since I got it back from John. You can see it at: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...91#post4665491

I decided to stay with my Type R as my track hasn't real decided if it's going to do oval or not.

John ... thank you for all your help in testing it.

Rick
Rick, you got a PM.
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:50 PM
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thanks john

man the cars look great! that tc5 must be a piece of work going as fast as it is. sounds like a handful to drive.
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