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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 10-05-2010, 08:41 PM
  #1696  
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The standard setup and greatest ackerman is with tie rods perpendicular to the chassis center line. You move the servo fore and aft with shims or by feeding from the back of the servo saver to achieve this. If you want to try less ackerman then move the servo forward (or backward) to angle the tie rods. I like mine straight out oudoors on asphalt.
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:33 AM
  #1697  
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Cool, mine are straight too, so won't mess with that yet.
I rebuilt it last night, and noticed that the pod droop was excessive. To have my ride height at 7mm all-round, I ended up with about 2mm+ of pod droop. I added shims I had lying around to eventually get just under 1.5mm droop. Hopefully that aids in my quest for control out of the corner as I think it was jsut far too much movement before.
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:06 PM
  #1698  
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A couple of new or coming items from the mags that will be useful in 1/12 scale or 1 cell racing.

LRP SXX V.2 speed control
This will have a voltage boosting circuit so you can run 1 cell with no receiver pack in a top of the line lightweight speed control. I looked for this before I built my 1/12 but offerings were limited. Novak chose to go receiver pack in their top of the line 1 cell speed control


Smaller transponder from AMB.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=MYL1000

unfortunately it is not much cheaper.
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:44 PM
  #1699  
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
A couple of new or coming items from the mags that will be useful in 1/12 scale or 1 cell racing.

[URL="http://teamassociated.com/lrp/parts/details/LRP80905/"]Smaller transponder from AMB.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=MYL1000

unfortunately it is not much cheaper.
john
I use the smaller ones from MRT
They use the same system as AMB
I got my AMB one cloned by MRT so now have 5 of them with the same number
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Old 10-17-2010, 10:53 AM
  #1700  
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Default Asphalt 13.5 set-up

And FINALLY it all comes together. My previous poor runs were down to mechanical error, like tyres rubbing on wheel arches, king pin grubs screws coming out. I also had a problem with too much droop in the rear pod with the factory spacers.

So, fixed all that, hit the track for the latest club meet, and easily had the fastest car there Would have won the day, except, on the last lap, my car had a freakish cut-out, the started 15 seconds later after 2 others had caught me! Bugger...

Anyway, I had a lot of trouble finding the right set-up for our track. Remember we are on unprepped asphalt, no additive, and pollen/dust makes the traction variable.

Here is my set-up:
Ride height 6.5mm all round
Tires 59mm front and rear
Mulsanne body
2 cell lipo, 13.5, Tekin with turbo
Front:
Long wheelbase, medium width
Red springs, 1mm droop
4mm caster, zero reactive
Steering parallel

Rear:
Long side links
White side springs
8000cst damper tubes
Tamiya white (14.8lb) centre spring, 30wt AE oil
1.5mm pod droop

Thanks for all the help on this thread
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Old 10-17-2010, 11:32 AM
  #1701  
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Default OVAL CAR

Hey John,

FINALLY got to run your Oval Car on the Capped Track.

Spent the day on Friday at the A MAIN RACEWAY in Bakersfield CA shaking it down. (I Had gone over 2 weeks earlier and did about 20-25 practice laps to scrub in tires and set trims)

W/O making any significant changes (other than Spring Tensions) and one tire change - got it feeling really good.

I had been 2 years since I raced on a short/banked/concrete "CAPPED TIRE" track - so I had to work on ME first...

(well the chassis worked really well, better than the driver)

I had several issues of screws coming loose through-out the weekend, so I chased a few things - plus Steve J. made me a really nice RH Side Nurf wing - but it was interfering w/ the RR trailing arm (I practice w/o it) so it caused excessive LR weight and gave me a push that took a few minutes to catch)

FOR IT's first time on the track - I was very happy with the results.

Issues I had were - RF Droop screw was making contace w/ the steering rod every time the wheels came back to center...it turned the droop screw. (until the RF suspension was fully collapsed) ... I removed the screw.

Front end screws holding the front and pivot sockets, came loose once...and rear pan hard bar screw came loose once, (along with a couple other screws.)

I justs started Rechecking ALL the screws each run - and I was good after that.

I ran this w/ a NASTRUCK BODY in our 2 cell 21.5 class. Progression through practice to race day, started at 5.6 second laps...tuned to 4.8 second laps (on practice day) On race day fast lap was 5.0, but I made NO more gearing, or real changes on race day. (5.0's were pretty much the FASTEST Laps in the class - so I didn't need to make it faster) I played conserative and worked on small chassis adjustments. (all spring)

...a lot of guys looked at the car and laughed - said "GOOD LUCK WITH THAT", yet they all agreed it looked VERY GOOD on the track.

The front end does catch some attention....

Not sure when I'll get to go back and run it again - I'm hoping to run STEVE's next weekend again on the CARPET in So Cal.
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Old 10-25-2010, 12:37 PM
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Joe-Thanks very much for testing the car and for the report.
It is possible that a longer or shorter droop screw may clear your link. My servo must be in a different position fore and aft and clears the screw. Feel free to drill a new .089 inch hole and reposition the screw. I feed the steering links off the back of the servo saver.
The new Scimitar front top plate has three points of support. I am not sure which version went out with your car. This helps the front screws stay put better after a bump. Also I through bolt the two front screws with 1.25 inch long flat head screws now. This helps things stay tight better. If your car is not equipped with all of these parts send me a note and I will send them along to you or steve.
Lower the front roll center to get more grip and reduce steering throw. Upper outer arms down. Lower outer arms up. Use thin spacers and make small moves.
I ran my 3-link oval car with considerable left rear down tweak. I was on a flat oval though. I adjusted the left rear collar down (or right rear up to maintain ride height) until the right rear was barely on the spring. For me the benefit was less corner exit hooking, but my left rear tire never lifted either.
Thanks again for your time. Your comments by the competitors are typical. It is great to stir things up a lilttle.
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:09 AM
  #1703  
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Hi John, I am the person who contact you last week about the new 1/10 Scimitar. I am from Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. We started racing Pan Cars close to 20 years ago. The majority were racing Associated, Linx, Trinity Evolution and other models names that I cant remember. We use 10 turn brushed motors and the best Nickel Cadmiun batteries at that time. The tracks where asphalt with good traction but sometimes we use sugar water. Always foams for electric cars but at 1997 was the last race and we were mounting soft donuts used in gas cars. The thing is we revived the class almost two years ago after trying the touring electrics with low turn brushless motors, only to spend less with more simplicity. We are using actually 9 turns brushless and 4600 and 5000 NimH for racing with Lola and GTPs bodies and good lipos in 7.4 volts configuration for practicing. As I told you before because our own track is close to the sea and a horse training area with dirt, we have to clean our track a lot. Its also painted with a special paint but is impossible to use foams, we use Johs BSR rubber , green rears and silver fronts (we tried all compounds here and have low tire wear thanks to the paint). In other tracks with crude asphalt we use foams. In our own experience the pan car that uses the pack longitudinally instead of perpendicular and moved closed to the rear of the chassis is very difficult to control out of turns in most conditions accelerating hard; only when yo can put a lot of weight at the rear and outside the chassis the car accelerates easiest out of low speed corners specially.(Its seems a matter of loading and unloading the front tires because of this. In exceptionally good traction the car with the battery longitudinally is faster).
I myself have and race a heavily modified Associated 235 mm chassis,an Associated touring electric, an 1/5 on road FG, and own several 1/8 and 1/10 gas cars from past times, but still the pan car gives you a lot of satisfaction spending a lot less $$$.
(A son of mine was national champion in many clases here and was semipatronized by the late Ron Paris and Picco.). I am hoping that the class grows again and to get some money soon because your Scimitar 232 mm is a beautiful pan car.
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:34 AM
  #1704  
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could you post a pic of your heavily modifed 235mm associated? Is it a
RC10L2?
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:36 AM
  #1705  
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Josedo-Good luck with your racing. I sent Doug a mail to inquire on my Scimitar wide pan graphite parts. He said I should should get some in a week or two.
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Old 11-19-2010, 01:49 PM
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Hi, I will try to post a pic of my Associated. In 1996 I bought the chassis, a stainless steel rear axle(no more problems with balance of the tires or breaks what happened in crashes or just with the track bumps). (It was a company in USA that maked it) a ground effect lower pod for the rear, the motor plate with fins for heat dissipation and the front end with an upper graphite plate elevated from the chassis, and titanium arms with a joint for the upper side of the kingpins so you could change caster, reactive caster,camber and progressive camber just turning the titanium arms fixed to the upper plate with DuBro joints and bolts with shimms; also the roll center of the front making the arms longer with other holes in the plate. (You also had a lot more travel in the front end with longer springs).I used to race with the cells divided in two packs of three cells each in both sides of the chassis, but elevating the front mount of the shock absorber and using a stick pack transversally and over the tip plate with some side mounts, the chassis behaves a lot better. I also have a Trinity Evolution, I think it was the first 235 mm 1/10 pan car with the battery longitudinally in the chassis and three rear shocks, two of them for pod damping effect, (Extremely difficult to race in low and medium grip tracks, no matter what you did but a killer with high traction).
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:03 AM
  #1707  
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So how's racing, John? Haven't heard much from you - things okay? Car still running fine? Any more refinements?

I just moved (well, finished the moving OUT - now working on the moving IN. . .that seems to take longer! LOL) but once I'm settled in, I'm planning on starting work on converting my 10L2 to your four-link car. . .
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:24 AM
  #1708  
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Offtopic but as you are talking about the L2 , Anyone have some setups to share of a RC10L2.5 (with silva sideshocks) for low to medium traction asfalt? Damper tube setups would be good as well
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:25 AM
  #1709  
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Boomer-The latest car and refinements is the new Scimitar. Here is a link to the car back in the thread. The best of whats new there is the wide pod using older style side plates for a much more rigid setup. This should prevent any axle tramp or chatter on power.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/7867739-post1655.html

My personal racing is stalled at the moment. I am doing a large project to the house. I should be back at the track in January with the wide pan.

Good luck with your conversion.
John
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:09 PM
  #1710  
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Has anyone tried using a side shock instead of the standard damper tubes?
I've got a damper from my old 12th car that I was thinking of trying out. Just basically removing both damper tubes, and installing the shock on one side.
Any pro's or cons to a set-up like that?
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