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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 05-17-2010, 09:11 AM
  #1486  
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Jim-
Here is an alternate setup for the side mount plates, that I posted recently, that gives you more travel. See the pic below. On my car the standard position of the plates keeps the chassis off the ground at 65 mph through the bumps. A small pattern thin steel nut can be used at the back of the links for just a little more travel. Even though contact is made, the sideplate assembly is a little springy; it is like having a stiffer spring come in on uptravel. A bumpstop like setup.

You can add that extra hole and Nerf Wing support screw to stiffen the chassis if you have high grip. I have had a hole in my chassis and it is inuse. You can also countersink that body post screw if you need a little more roll clearance or add another washer to raise the outer edge a little more. I have actually gone to 2.0 mm wings now to save weight. My wings are 2.0 mm and I never break them.
Thanks for the reports. Good Luck.


Steve-Thanks for the report and the link. Hope to hear some good results on the velodrome.
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-js-pro-10-alternate-setup-side-mount-plates-002.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 05-17-2010 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:44 AM
  #1487  
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TOP LOADED BATTERY

I recently had a request for a toploaded screwless battery install car. Here is the final form of the 2011 JS Pro 10 Battery support. It will use a short battery top plate at the back. The battery installs over the servo. There is an O-ring to secure the front. I am using a black Nylon Wingnut to secure the O-ring strap. See the first photo. The wingnut is very light Nylon 66 and will shave a few dollars (and grams) off the the car as will the short topstrap. Also available to secure the O-ring at the front will be CRC Bigfoot O-ring anchors. These are very nicely done in Red Anodized Aluminum and retail for $10.00. See the second photo.

The sequence is thus. Handbuilt prototypes have been tested already. The rear pod (which undewent a year of testing previously) is buttery smooth in power delivery. The test last week went very well. CAD drawings are all finished. Machine cut prototypes are coming. Tests for fit will be quick. Request for additional units, final delivery, and the parts will be for sale. Time is out of my control.
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-top-loaded-battery-001.jpg   CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-prototype-pro-10-2011-001.jpg  
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Old 05-17-2010, 12:43 PM
  #1488  
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John, thanks for the info.

I think I'll leave out adding the additional bolt as my tracks are not high traction much of the time.

I have seen that pic of the rear setup and am going to try it next time out. I found the best way to setup the rear pod was to measure the distance of the front and rear bolt heads for each side link with a set of digital calipers. I found this to be more accurate than pushing the rear wheels againsed a wall and reading off a setup board.

I actually load my lipo through the top to save wear on the plastic battery tray. Due to the design of your 3 link rear end it is very easy to unbolt the top deck and swing it completely around to allow room for lipo loading. I swapped the red top deck screws with some larger headed steel ones to make this easier. Doing it this way enables the car to be kept on it's stand.
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:42 PM
  #1489  
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I've only just started mucking around with the CRC as you all know, but I can already see it's a very stiff chassis. Now I run on a low to medium aspahlt track, without additive, so wouldn't mind a bit of flex in the chassis.

I've already thinned out the top-plate a bit for battery wire access. What do you think of removing the front two posts, cutting the brace back to just in front of the shock mount, and additn two more posts to the brace behind the existing rear posts?

I haven't been able to have a look at the car to see if it would get in the way of the damper tubes or pivot assembly yet......
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:13 AM
  #1490  
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I know this isn't the right forum, but i'm looking for a used 1/10 Pan for a friend.
Will consider anything older or newer, but I am in New Zealand, so must ship international. I have a PayPal account.
PM me if you have anything (preferably cheap)
THanks
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Old 05-18-2010, 05:39 AM
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JR 007-
Here is a pic of the battery top plate you suggest. There is room for it. It did not seem to change the handling. It also did not allow top battery install so I abandoned it. There is not enough material on the sides of the stock battery strap to do this. Instead I like a skeletonized X type of brace.

I have a used JS Pro 10 for sale. $325.
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-itf-battery-top-plate-003.jpg  
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:42 AM
  #1492  
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Thanks for that John. The car is out of my friends price range, but thanks for the offer.

Interesting about the brace. I was hoping it would give a little torsional flex, but if there isn't going to be any noticeable effect, I won't much around with it.

One thing I am quite interested in, is tyre compounds, and how the cars react in different situations. Take our track, outdoor asphalt, low to medium traction, no compound.
Now, the only pan cars there are 1/12th's, and they run quite hard fronts to remove steering. I assume steering is reduced by the front wheels pushing (and therefore sliding), which would explain their high tyre wear.
Is this the way pan's are generally tuned?
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:52 AM
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Yes that is how you tune a pan. first get the tires right. For 1/10 pan on asphalt run purple fronts and pink rears normally. Adjust from there. Then fine tune front and rear side springs. My tires last a long time when there is only low to medium traction.
John
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:57 AM
  #1494  
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Hi John

My SPX8 arrived today! What's the deal with the BEC wire? Would it be possible for you to repost your pic of your final installation? At least I shouldn't have to worry about esc temps now.

I also have a nice pair of digital scales coming this week. I wanna get those nerf wings balanced spot on. What would you say that the maximum permissible difference each side can be before you start to notice?

Jim.
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:04 PM
  #1495  
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Hi peeps i'm still loving the genx10 and getting faster. Now i'm not hitting so much stuff i thought i'd paint a good shell what do you think?
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:20 PM
  #1496  
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Awsome Rio!

Get it out to 235mm
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:51 PM
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Rio-Nice!

Jim-The BEC wire needs to be hooked up to the fat red wire coming from the battery. (7.4 v nominal). There is a Shottky diode soldered under the circuit board edge to this wire. I attached the BEC wire to the Shottky diode lead near the circuit board to make the soldering easier.

I mounted the speed control with the lead wires right to put as much weight as possible right. I mounted it in front of the body post so the lead wires could be close to he left side link. Again moving weight right.

When weight is not even in the chassis, what happens is, the car will get more traction on the heavy side. It will steer toward the light side as a result; there is torque steer. You will automatically compensate with the radio, but you will not go quite as fast or be able to use quite as much throttle as when the car is accelerating straight by itself. You may not notice unless it is a severe case. When you balance with scales you balance within about .3-.4 ounces side to side. That is about the limit with friction in the shock shafts.

Good luck.

JR007-That is the trim on the battery top plate that I like.

John
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-jspro-10-spx8-002.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 05-19-2010 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:42 PM
  #1498  
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Could anyone help me track down the manual for a Trinity Switchblade SS 1/10 pan car (the oval chassis "speedway" version)

I have the exploded parts diagram, but I don't think I can build it off just that. I know it's old and no more parts support, but I don't plan on running it, just want to build it.

Please send a PM if anyone can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for any help!

P.S. Awesome looking shell Rio!
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:04 PM
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Has anyone tried a Gen X 10 front set-up with short Kingpins and springs?
I ask because when I got my car (second hand), there was a complete spare set of front suspension. These have short king-pins and springs that are about the same size as some X-Ray 12th ones I have.
Never tried it, as i've only had the car out for a few runs, but keen to know if anyone else has tried this. The springs are only 2/3 of the height of the standard springs
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Old 05-25-2010, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
Has anyone tried a Gen X 10 front set-up with short Kingpins and springs?
I ask because when I got my car (second hand), there was a complete spare set of front suspension. These have short king-pins and springs that are about the same size as some X-Ray 12th ones I have.
Never tried it, as i've only had the car out for a few runs, but keen to know if anyone else has tried this. The springs are only 2/3 of the height of the standard springs
yes... thats pretty much the standard set up for carpet. for outdoor use im still running 1/12 scale springs and kingpins w/o any issues... (but i havent tried swapping them yet)
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