kerk

iTrader: (2)

I run standard suspension arms, front blocks 1A/1A, standard C hubs and knuckles, front 1-way. I have no problem using the 46mm UJ.

Could be the dimenison of the outdrives then.

Cheers!!

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

My Castle Creations Sidewinder 4600kv ESC/Motor is damaged I think. I sluggish compared to when I first got it.

I have a Novak Havok Sport 5000kv ESC Motor System. It's awesome but I use the Castle because it's simpler: Less wires, smaller esc, wires can be disconnected from motor, less mess, and in my opinion it looks better. Also, my Havon Sport glitches randomly no matter how far I get the wires/electronics away and I don't want another bulky capacitor sticking out since I need Novaks glitch buster to sort it out as in the instructions.

Can anyone recommnad me a simple combo? Not looking to spend more then 180.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVAG2&P=FR

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-4800kV

EZrun?

bluesxman

I'd wager you just toasted your motor and the ESC is fine. What about just buying a new 4600kv? Sounds like the cheapest option, at least.

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

I kinda want a new motor but I think I may get another sidewinder. I'm not digging the choppy startup on the sidewinder though, and the choppy RPM loss. What are some other good combos?

kerk

iTrader: (2)

Sensored based models will provide you with smooth start ups but they do cost more. Its a compromise you'll have to decide for yourself.

Another thing, make sure your batteries are in good condition and properly charged. It is when the voltage to the brushless esc (sensored or sensorless) is too low, it causes the motor to cog (stutter).

Cheers!!

SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

I am looking to get a TB03.

Which of the kits have the IFS?

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

All of them!

SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

I see the TB03 drift kits arent IFS.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Oh, perhaps. I must admit I don't pay much attention to the drift stuff.

Racecrafter

iTrader: (25)

The drift kit (TB03D) is the only one without IFS.

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

I've tried everything to fix my steering on my TB-03D so it will turn all the way to the stopper even and smooth on both sides with no binding.

It's not my controller, it's not my servo. The dog bones will bind when the car steering is turned. And it wont let it hit the stopper. I got a front one way shaft in there.

I am at odds and because of this I am looking to go back to my Yokomo SD.

I ordered this. Thought it would stop the binding, thought it would fit. It was too long.

I just don't anymore. What do you guys have on your setups that make the steering knuckles hit the stopper without binding?

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

Quick Update: I just noticed my car also vibrates when I drive it on the front steering knuckles because of binding. It vibrates fairly heavy. The same binding as in the post above that doesn't allow my steering to turn all the way to the stopper.

Will these fix my problem?
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=54076
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=54078
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=53500

I am trying to conquer my steering problem.

-I have a TB-03D
-Tamiya Front One Way with stock shimming
-Tamiya Direct Coupling in the Rear Stock Shimming

44mm too long? 46mm?

Racecrafter

iTrader: (25)

DriftWoof,

The vibration you are encountering is normal with a spool. I'm still not sure what your binding issue could be without seeing the car.

Where ae you located? I'd like to help you get this resolved as I see you are buying parts here and there to fix your situation. Let me know.


Jimmy Wright

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

I am in Pacifica CA.

All I want to do I stop my steering dogbones from binding with the side of this cups so the steering knuckle can make a full turn all the way to the stopper. I figured the parts I listed above will solve that. I just don't know 44mm or 46mm?

The vibration seems to be from the steering when i throttle it and look at it the same time I can see the dogbones push the cups out and over the bindings when the car servo is turned all the way right/left.

I am in Pacifica CA.

All I want to do I stop my steering dogbones from binding with the side of this cups so the steering knuckle can make a full turn all the way to the stopper. I figured the parts I listed above will solve that. I just don't know 44mm or 46mm?

The vibration seems to be from the steering when i throttle it and look at it the same time I can see the dogbones push the cups out and over the bindings when the car servo is turned all the way right/left.

In the photo you can see i have my steering maxed out. I want the knuckle to hit all the way to the stopper. This is why my steering radius is so large.



Binding
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBKrCmdgIyY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6mJj8ACRR4

Group B Monster

the stock dogbone are not good. You need to switch to 44 universal. At first I use 46 because the kit said it , but 46 is too tight specialy if you put some camber they will bind with 1A-1A mount , so I got a 44 for the front and its fit nicely. (46 fit in my rear)

Running too much radius with stock bone will result in this:


Also you said your knuckle hit the c arm when you turn. I just check mine and the servo stop before that so, something wrong with your C arm maybe. How are your turnbuckle for the camber in the front? Are they straight or the outter cup (c arm ) are more toward the front of the car? Try to switch the c arm around.