5LikesTamiya TB-03
08-16-2009, 10:32 PM
#766
Best answer I have had for this question. I understand now, there is in fact part support for Yokomo in the Bay Area and a parts for the Yokomo can be here in a few days. Only thing is though, I find my self wanting a Tamiya and need to justify getting one. I will get one in a few weeks or so. I hope it's as easy to put together and install hopups as the MR4TC SD.
TB03 is a very easy car to build. If you have any questions when you get your car don't hesitate to ask. We are all here to help
Hop ups are easy to install as well.....and addicting! 
Last edited by Timmie; 08-16-2009 at 11:32 PM.
08-16-2009, 10:50 PM
#767
As far as the posts about adding grease to the crown and pinion gears, I personally do not add it to mine. It just adds drag in the drivetrain, and isn't really needed in my opinion. Now if you are drifting your car, then I could see where a little extra insurance couldn't hurt. Drifting, your drivetrain will be at a pretty high rpm all the time and a lot of the drift guys are running spools*direct coupler* in rear, one ways in the front, all kinds of setups that add a lot of load to the gears even if the tires are spinning easily. Here, a reduction in friction(heat) in the gears could prolong life with the parts.
But I do add something unique to my gears that I doubt many people have tried...*braces for redneck jokes
* Remington Dry Lube. Its a dry film lubricant I use on guns LOL! Just a quick spray adds a very fine film on the gears. Does it make a huge difference? Idk maybe not. But when I put a shaft car together, ever little gain I may be able to make is worth it to me. Dang I got to get off the internet I'm telling too many of my secrets lol
But I do add something unique to my gears that I doubt many people have tried...*braces for redneck jokes
* Remington Dry Lube. Its a dry film lubricant I use on guns LOL! Just a quick spray adds a very fine film on the gears. Does it make a huge difference? Idk maybe not. But when I put a shaft car together, ever little gain I may be able to make is worth it to me. Dang I got to get off the internet I'm telling too many of my secrets lol
08-16-2009, 10:56 PM
#768
AW grease on gears would be BAD! you would have mechanical drag brake
Looks like it has a graphite additive to me. It's awesome stuff though, like Fat said i use it on my axles as well. Its some sticky stuff thats for sure. I hate getting that stuff on my fingers
08-17-2009, 03:28 AM
#769
Tech Apprentice
Hmmm what suspension setup are you running? That would help us figure out what to suggest changing. Most of the time a spool gives you more onpower steering....not less. You sure your not just going too fast and not slowing down for the corners? hehehehe
Or if your inpatient, just run less droop in the front
You can try a little bit of tow out in the front, more camber in the front.
I am not a Tamiya grease expert. But I will still give my opinion
They are both probably lithium based greases, as are most greases out there, that they either add a ceramic additive or a molybdenum additive. Relating that with my experience with real life cars, moly grease is used for very high load bearing purposes, high temp,high speed, low speed,.. basically extreme enviroment. Ceramic greases are usually a mid grade grease used for lighter load bearing, high speed applications. Both are good to use on lots of things and offer similar performance in a lot of areas, but for heavy duty I would use the molybdenum.
Or if your inpatient, just run less droop in the front You can try a little bit of tow out in the front, more camber in the front. I am not a Tamiya grease expert. But I will still give my opinion
They are both probably lithium based greases, as are most greases out there, that they either add a ceramic additive or a molybdenum additive. Relating that with my experience with real life cars, moly grease is used for very high load bearing purposes, high temp,high speed, low speed,.. basically extreme enviroment. Ceramic greases are usually a mid grade grease used for lighter load bearing, high speed applications. Both are good to use on lots of things and offer similar performance in a lot of areas, but for heavy duty I would use the molybdenum.
haven't got the instruments to really measure this) and the default 2.5degree toe-in rear , about 4mm ride height in front and 4.5mm at the back. PROBABLY about 2-3mm droop in front and 3-4 rear. 400 oil (tamiya yellow) in the dampers front and rear, with the white springs (I think they're the same as the yellow springs?) that come with the shocks.I've also just added 1mm spacer to the front IFS shock mount, 0.5mm extra spacer to the front/front suspension mount (to increase the caster angle?), and moved the rear shocks to a more vertical position (top, second hole from the outside). I've yet to try out these changes though...
Ha ha...I'm pretty sure I'm just making a mess of things, but...mucking around is fun
Spools are supposed to give lots of on power steering. It will force the car to move the direction the fronts point, and drag the rear with it. I have to be careful not to gas it too much or it will spin out my car. But when I put the ball diff back in, it was a pig on corner exit.
I use ceramic for anything plastic, and moly for metal to metal.
I use ceramic for anything plastic, and moly for metal to metal.
Everyone has been so helpful in this forum. I'm really feeling the love here... heez! Thanks all!
08-17-2009, 06:59 AM
#770
TB03
TIMMIE,
AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE LINKS I BADLY NEEDED YOUR HELP. Right now the kit is just for the show and not for the race yet. If you would need help on the write up on the low down step by step build up for the TB03 then let me know. I will be waiting for your emails can't wait to rebuild the kit.
RICO
AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE LINKS I BADLY NEEDED YOUR HELP
. Right now the kit is just for the show and not for the race yet. If you would need help on the write up on the low down step by step build up for the TB03 then let me know. I will be waiting for your emails can't wait to rebuild the kit. RICO
08-17-2009, 07:22 AM
#771
Swift,
If you don't already have them, I'd go pick up some cheap digital calipers and measure all your turn buckles. Make sure to get them to the factory lengths that are in the manual. I'd wager that'll fix your toe-in.
If you don't already have them, I'd go pick up some cheap digital calipers and measure all your turn buckles. Make sure to get them to the factory lengths that are in the manual. I'd wager that'll fix your toe-in.
08-17-2009, 08:05 AM
#772
suspension setup? Eek - I'm really not all that precise i.e. I haven't really been all that precise measuring stuff. I'm running about 2degree negative camber front and negative 1.5rear, "some" front toe-out ( haven't got the instruments to really measure this) and the default 2.5degree toe-in rear , about 4mm ride height in front and 4.5mm at the back. PROBABLY about 2-3mm droop in front and 3-4 rear. 400 oil (tamiya yellow) in the dampers front and rear, with the white springs (I think they're the same as the yellow springs?) that come with the shocks.
I've also just added 1mm spacer to the front IFS shock mount, 0.5mm extra spacer to the front/front suspension mount (to increase the caster angle?), and moved the rear shocks to a more vertical position (top, second hole from the outside). I've yet to try out these changes though...
haven't got the instruments to really measure this) and the default 2.5degree toe-in rear , about 4mm ride height in front and 4.5mm at the back. PROBABLY about 2-3mm droop in front and 3-4 rear. 400 oil (tamiya yellow) in the dampers front and rear, with the white springs (I think they're the same as the yellow springs?) that come with the shocks.I've also just added 1mm spacer to the front IFS shock mount, 0.5mm extra spacer to the front/front suspension mount (to increase the caster angle?), and moved the rear shocks to a more vertical position (top, second hole from the outside). I've yet to try out these changes though...
hehe nothing is permanent, you can always change back...and as long as your having fun thats what counts! Its so hard for me to not make a lube joke at this moment hahah! Yes everyone here is very nice, you all are a good group of guys
Last edited by Timmie; 08-17-2009 at 01:09 PM.
08-17-2009, 08:16 AM
#773
TIMMIE,
AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE LINKS I BADLY NEEDED YOUR HELP. Right now the kit is just for the show and not for the race yet. If you would need help on the write up on the low down step by step build up for the TB03 then let me know. I will be waiting for your emails can't wait to rebuild the kit.
RICO
AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE LINKS I BADLY NEEDED YOUR HELP
. Right now the kit is just for the show and not for the race yet. If you would need help on the write up on the low down step by step build up for the TB03 then let me know. I will be waiting for your emails can't wait to rebuild the kit. RICO
I'm waiting on my new chassis to show up in the mail today. As soon as I get it I will take my car apart tonight and start working on the write up for you and anyone else that wishes to look at it. I'll try to be as detailed as I can
08-17-2009, 08:23 AM
#774
+1 on the dry lube, though I have never tried it on driveline parts, I do use it it on suspension pins and balls/cups. The brand I use leaves a whitish film, so I just spray out a little into the cap and apply it with a q-tip or dip the parts in it and let them dry. Be careful spraying into the cap though as it can spray right back into your eyes...I do it in my kitchen sink and hold it all away from my face. Be sure to test it on a sprue scrap first, as some brands might use a base that could eat plastic bits. Any auto parts or "Big Box" store (I'm on vacation from the orange box right now so I refuse to utter it's name at the moment!) should carry it.
In sealed gearboxes I similarly use a spray silicone lube, but it can attract dust and dirt so I don't use it where it is susceptible to dirt like the suspension pins etc.
In sealed gearboxes I similarly use a spray silicone lube, but it can attract dust and dirt so I don't use it where it is susceptible to dirt like the suspension pins etc.
08-17-2009, 08:27 AM
#775
08-17-2009, 01:21 PM
#777
As it was already said here, tamiya hop-ups are addictive
I'm between buying a high performance car or building one with my hands. No question about which opportunity would be more expensive. The TB-03 got this beautifully arranged inside front shocks. The TB EVO has not. I think this is the point why to start up building a CF-deck TB-03 (IFS). I still want the Takata NSX body which won't fit a TB EVO.
My poor wallet.... ....made of onion-leather. Everytime you're looking into it, you'll be crying.
I'm between buying a high performance car or building one with my hands. No question about which opportunity would be more expensive. The TB-03 got this beautifully arranged inside front shocks. The TB EVO has not. I think this is the point why to start up building a CF-deck TB-03 (IFS). I still want the Takata NSX body which won't fit a TB EVO.
My poor wallet.... ....made of onion-leather. Everytime you're looking into it, you'll be crying.
08-17-2009, 06:13 PM
#779
It's really good to see this thread jumping!
I'm really enjoying this car waaayy too much.
As Timmie said Hop Ups can be addicting but I'm staying as stock as possible.
In the series I'm running (RCGT Showdown) my two top competitors are (supposedly) running stock out of the box JL10 and Cyclone cars. Though the Cyclone is a bit out of the "Budget" range the JL-10 is priced right along the TB03. (Although you only get a chassis kit, no wheels tires, motor or body) it's $130 price tag is attractive to new comers.
Soooo, I will be testing the stock shocks this weekend and building them to match the performance of my TRF's (or there about)
I also may take it a step further and ditch the sway bars. We'll see how it goes.
Jimmy W
I'm really enjoying this car waaayy too much.
As Timmie said Hop Ups can be addicting but I'm staying as stock as possible.
In the series I'm running (RCGT Showdown) my two top competitors are (supposedly) running stock out of the box JL10 and Cyclone cars. Though the Cyclone is a bit out of the "Budget" range the JL-10 is priced right along the TB03. (Although you only get a chassis kit, no wheels tires, motor or body) it's $130 price tag is attractive to new comers.
Soooo, I will be testing the stock shocks this weekend and building them to match the performance of my TRF's (or there about)
I also may take it a step further and ditch the sway bars. We'll see how it goes.
Jimmy W
