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Old 05-15-2008, 08:03 AM   #16
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If your chassis is quite flexible, try running a harder spring and oil on the front to the rear, and get the front shocks fairly upright, but lay the back shocks down a little more than the rear.

This may give you some stability but still giving you a fair chance of getting the power down.

It doesnt always work depending on your driving style but I guess it cant do any harm trying it with a set of scrubbed tyres for a few laps Also, make sure your droop is set equally as in mod even the smallest setup error is magnified on the track.

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Old 05-17-2008, 11:21 PM   #17
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does the Novak 4.5R come with the 12.3 rotor as a stock rotor?
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Old 05-18-2008, 07:01 AM   #18
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hey guys, looking to pick up a novak 13.5 and 10.5, i understand there are newer versions of this motor out. where can i find them???
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:10 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by ab1105 View Post
does the Novak 4.5R come with the 12.3 rotor as a stock rotor?
Yes it does. All the motors now come with the sintered 12.3mm rotor as standard.

Originally Posted by Chris08527 View Post
hey guys, looking to pick up a novak 13.5 and 10.5, i understand there are newer versions of this motor out. where can i find them???
What do you mean buy new versions? Check your local hobby shop and see what they have. Other than that online stores like Tower and Stomer do enough business that they should always have "what's new" in stock. They only difference in my last 10.5 that Charlie sent me is that they have gone away from that long coiley(sp) wiring protector to a black type shrink wrap around the wires. It looks stealth now. Much easier to tuck away or zip tie. I hope I somewhat answered your question. If not please pop into the Steve Weiss thread and he'll be able to point you in the right direction.
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