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Old 07-29-2003, 03:41 AM   #1
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Yokomo MR-4TC SD or Associated FT TC3?

I am deciding between these two because thats about all my LHS carries parts for(except HPI, Traxxas). Also my LHS sets up a track every Tuesday on their parking lot(not that big). A lot of Yokomo SD owners seem to be happy with their car. I have researched and some FT TC3 owners have a lot of A Arm breakage. I don't know what to get. The SD looks like its fully hopped up already. These are also the cars people run most at my track. A couple people run Pro3s and Xrays. I saw a deal on another forum for a Pro 3 bone stock for 85 shipped. I was thinking of not getting it since the Pro 4 will come out soon. Should I wait for Pro 4? I don't really want to because school is almost starting and my LHS races on Tuesday NIGHTS(9PM-12AM) . Sorry for all of the questions . Thanks!!!
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Old 07-29-2003, 05:49 AM   #2
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Can't go wrong with the new SD or the FT TC3 as they are both great cars out of the box. I wouldn't get the Pro 3 because as you said the new Pro4 is right around the corner. A plus is that your shop carries Yoke parts so that would be nice if you do happen to break your car.
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Old 07-29-2003, 09:49 AM   #3
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SD
more tunable than the FT-TC3. I've had both cars. by far the SD wins! I've broken a ton of arms with the TC3...so far 'Zero' with the SD.

I also had the Pro3...and I recommend you not get one...You'll end up spending way too much money just to make it competative.
I too is planning to get the Pro4. The specs are impressive. Since your school and the winter rainy season is approaching the Bay area... Hold off on getting the Pro4 til next spring '04. by that time all the bugs will have been worked out and option parts will be readily available. I'm sure Rc-tech will carry parts for the car. Me I will wait for the Hara Edition Pro4 to be released even if it means buying it from overseas... it will be worth it.
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Old 07-29-2003, 10:13 AM   #4
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I would say "SD".

Since I got it in May, I broke 2 steering hubs and 1 caster block. Recently broke 1 diff adjusting screw. I hit stuffs pretty hard and consider I ran 8X1 most of the time now.... Have not replace the A-arm yet.

I had to rebuild the DIFF for the first time last week(gone tru 40 packs +) just because I broke the diff adjusting screw. Otherwise it will be fall before I rebuild my DIFFs.

The car is much easy to work on, more tunable than the TC3. IMO anyway....
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Old 07-29-2003, 01:27 PM   #5
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I think I have made a bad decision. I just bought a hopped up Pro 3 for 85.00 shipped. Not the bone stock one. It has: front and rear graphite shock mounts, grpahite upper deck, one way front axle and one way top gear, purple heat sink, front and rear sway bars, extra springs and other hop up parts and extra stock parts and the parts book for it. And a body. I think this is good for me because this is my first electric touring and I am gonna race it only a couple times a month. Im not gonna be doing any "real" competitive racing. Did I make the right choice?
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Old 07-29-2003, 01:49 PM   #6
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$85 to start in the hobby -- I think that is a good move. Once you start getting in the hobby you will see a) if you even want to stay in it and b) what you really need to get. You might have been able to get a good used XXX-S or TC3, but that would still cost you at least $50 more and that could be used for better motors and/or batteries.

Just go out and have fun! Which car you use doesn't really matter at this stage -- especially if you aren't going to be doing much hard core racing.
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Old 07-29-2003, 01:53 PM   #7
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Im just gonna be racing novice stock class.
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Old 07-29-2003, 02:35 PM   #8
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As far as which car is better, the following applies:

asphalt = Yokomo
carpet = Associated

As far as your purchase decision goes, you can't beat it for $85. Especially considering that your just starting out in touring car. My advice is to upgrade your car once you feel more comfortable and competitive. The new Corally and Pro4 will both be available and ready when you are.
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Old 07-30-2003, 11:16 PM   #9
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I don't know all about that fuzzy, the tc3 is just as competitive on asphalt as the SD. You can't win if you can't drive, that's what determines what wins. Both cars are great and I would choose whatever my hobbyshop carries parts for. If there is no hobbyshop I would choose the car I know I wouldn't have trouble ordering parts for online.
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Old 07-31-2003, 12:33 AM   #10
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I'd say SD, I've seen komkits SD fly on carpet and I've seen another fly on asphult at a track I used to go to. I'm sure the AE can be competative but it's an older design, costs more, is ugle and will probabely be replaced before the SD.
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:54 AM   #11
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PW- I think he means the SD will be easier to tune on asphalt because it was really designed more for asphalt.

DOMO- I agree with the above post- have fun, learn to drive and care for your batteries, learn all about tires and suspension tuning, then when you feel you have reached the full capability of the Pro 3, upgrade to a better car. You'll be wasting time and money if you do it any other way. Trust us, speaking for myself and many others (I'm sure), we wish we had listened or had that advice when we started. I could have saved at least $1000 had I just followed that advice.
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Old 07-31-2003, 04:16 AM   #12
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Thanks everyone! Im looking forward to getting my Pro 3 and racing! Do you guys think 2 3300 matched packs and 2 2000 matched packs can last a whole night? Or should I get more.
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Old 07-31-2003, 05:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
Thanks everyone! Im looking forward to getting my Pro 3 and racing! Do you guys think 2 3300 matched packs and 2 2000 matched packs can last a whole night? Or should I get more.
Good morning Domo.

Two 3300 packs is plenty for three qualifying heats and a main. The reason being is that the 3300's like to be used more than once a day. Just make sure you let them cool before recharging them. Also, unlike NiCads, they don't need to be discharged in between heats. Charge them at 5 amps, win your qualifier, let them cool, and them charge again. Use the 2000's for your practice packs. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-31-2003, 12:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
PW- I think he means the SD will be easier to tune on asphalt because it was really designed more for asphalt.
So was the TC3.

Below is an animated gif of the tc3 being tested before it's release.

Why test a car on asphalt before it's released if it was designed to be raced on carpet??
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Old 07-31-2003, 02:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fuzzy
Good morning Domo.

Two 3300 packs is plenty for three qualifying heats and a main. The reason being is that the 3300's like to be used more than once a day. Just make sure you let them cool before recharging them. Also, unlike NiCads, they don't need to be discharged in between heats. Charge them at 5 amps, win your qualifier, let them cool, and them charge again. Use the 2000's for your practice packs. Hope this helps.
Thanks! I gotta tell my friend this too(hes gonna race and help me out in the pits) to just buy one more 3300 pack.
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