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Old 05-10-2008, 12:32 AM   #16
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here's a pic of my X-Ray T2 with a Yeah Racing 3200 lipo in it. It fits perfectly without any modifications. You just have to slide it in an angle and it will snap right in.

Should work the same way for the Orion Carbon 3200 since it is the same pack as the Yeah Racing 3200....'except the Yeah Racing pack is only $40

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Old 05-10-2008, 05:28 AM   #17
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to fit the 3600 hundred just dremel that lump for the sub cs with a cutting wheel or you can send it to me and i cnc it off
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:22 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
LiPO Fitment Thread

I think the answer is yes
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by 403forbidden View Post
here's a pic of my X-Ray T2 with a Yeah Racing 3200 lipo in it. It fits perfectly without any modifications. You just have to slide it in an angle and it will snap right in.

Should work the same way for the Orion Carbon 3200 since it is the same pack as the Yeah Racing 3200....'except the Yeah Racing pack is only $40
Thanks. I'm getting the Orion 3600 pack now though so I'll have to dremel the bulkhead.

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Originally Posted by iixliltonyx33 View Post
to fit the 3600 hundred just dremel that lump for the sub cs with a cutting wheel or you can send it to me and i cnc it off
Thanks for the offer. I'll try it myself first so I can run it without the wait.
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Old 05-31-2008, 05:32 PM   #19
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Here is my Orion 3600 in my T2. Fits nice & tight.






Now I just need to figure out how to get the - wire plugged in. I'm thinking I'll have to solder the wire onto the plug sideways. Anybody else have to do that?
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Old 05-31-2008, 06:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOXY923 View Post
Here is my Orion 3600 in my T2. Fits nice & tight.






Now I just need to figure out how to get the - wire plugged in. I'm thinking I'll have to solder the wire onto the plug sideways. Anybody else have to do that?
Foxy,
I added the washer "1-2mm" under the battery strap posts. This will keep the battery strap flat NOT bow. This will eliminate the chassis tweak.
Battery plugs I soldered straight, side way is hard to disconnect.
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:18 PM   #21
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Foxy,
I added the washer "1-2mm" under the battery strap posts. This will keep the battery strap flat NOT bow. This will eliminate the chassis tweak.
Battery plugs I soldered straight, side way is hard to disconnect.
Yeah I was just about to add a washer. I wasn't thrilled with the bow of the brace.

With the plug straight will it fit under the top deck? I haven't tried my let but I'm not sure it will fit Looks like it'll be a tight fit for sure. I was thinking if I bent the wire after striping it I could solder it onto the plug. I thought this would give me that small area to use to grip to remove from the pack. I'll try what I have now and go from there.

Thanks
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:19 PM   #22
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Turn the battery around so the terminals are towards the back.
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:21 PM   #23
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Turn the battery around so the terminals are towards the back.
That was on my list of things to try. Thanks for making me feel like I'm not an idiot...sorry if this sounds sarcastic it really isn't...really. I'm a total noob when it comes to lipo. I have read a bunch about them, charging etc, but mounting in a car is new.
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:38 PM   #24
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You're not the first person I've seen put the battery at the front and then wonder how to get the negative terminal to work. I guess people's natural instinct is to move the terminal away from the spur gear. Anyway, I had mine to the rear and it worked fine. The positive terminal was fairly close to the bulkhead but never touched it.
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Old 05-31-2008, 10:45 PM   #25
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Yup, I'm going with the terminals towards the rear. Looks like everything will clear just fine. I also added a washer to raise the battery brace and that is perfect. I am now a "Lipo Lover"

Now I just need to add some weight Any idea how much I need? Keeping in mind I'm using this pack in my T4 as well, so adding weight directly on the pack is not going to work. Even if I have to add some to the battery brace that would be fine. I'm not is serious contention for the A main so keeping the CG below the chassis isn't an issue

Edit: GreaseMonkey, I just noticed your from Ottawa...nice knowing I don't 'need' to travel south of the boarder for help, eh.
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:26 PM   #26
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For weights, one of our racers got a steel key and cut it down. He then drilled and tapped it so he could screw it to the chassis. I tried to find the pics on our old forum but couldn't. They might be in the T2 thread here though.

Edit: this should work: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...65#post3521765
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:39 PM   #27
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Thanks for the link. I couldn't find it. I must be tired cause I read "steel key" and though, "ok, I have a bunch of key's I don't know what they unlock". I'm going to bed now.

Thanks for the tips. Any idea how much weight that is? or how much I may need to add? If I had a scale I wouldn't have to ask
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Old 06-02-2008, 07:26 AM   #28
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never mind
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Last edited by FOXY923; 06-02-2008 at 10:11 AM. Reason: found answer
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