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Old 04-24-2008, 05:25 PM   #1
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Default Help electric 1/10

I would like to start getting into 1/10 electric road course racing. But I have no clue what equipment I will need. I know I want the good stuff, but I don't know everything I need to start. Can anyone help?
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Old 04-24-2008, 06:30 PM   #2
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A couple of things you need to consider, most importantly your budget, and secondly, what type of racing you will be doing. This is an expensive hobby but you can still have alot of fun on a budget, just don't expect to mix it with the fast guys straight up. If you have not raced before, you will probably need to start off in the novice/540 or mini class to learn the ropes. If you have some experience perhaps the stock class. Also consider whether you will be outdoors on asphalt/concrete or indoors on carpet, as this can affect your chassis and tyre selection.

I'll try to offer up some choices based primarliy on cost and performance - I'm sure many others will add their thoughts as well. There are plenty of threads on this site hat will give you more information on each choice.

Chassis
Top of the line chassis' include the Xray T2'008, Corally Phi, Serpent S400 and Tamiya TRF416. Good for a wide range of racing, and will take you from novice to mod. The Xrays and Corallys are expensive to repair, the Tamiya probably the cheapest. The next rung of cars incldue the Tamiya TA05 and the Cyclone S - still perform well, are quite urable and parts are cheap. Budget chassis' include the Tamiya M03 Mini (lots of fun if your track has a class) and the Tamiya TT01. These cars are very tough but offer limited options for tuning and chassis setup.

Check with your local hobby shops as to what parts they carry, but there are many reputable online dealers that will carry parts for any chassis you choose.

Radio
Radios are a good investment as they will last you longer than your chassis choice. I'd suggest spending as much as you can here as you will probably only buy one. Top of the line models include the Ko Prop Helios, Futaba 3PK and Spektrum DX3R. If your location allows it, any system running on 2.4ghz or equivalent is recommended as it prevents frequency classhes. Next down includes the JR XS3, the Futaba 3PM and the Spektrum DX3.0. For budget use, try the Futaba 2PL. If buying overseas, make sure the frequency choices are usable in your country.

Speed Controller
There is a move in most clubs towards brushless systems so if you can afford it go with a hybrid system that caters for brushless and brushed. Top of the line are the LRP TC, Novak GTB, Speed Passion GT and the Quark. On the next rung you could try the standard brushed models offered by Novak, LRP or Tekin. Budget offerings include the Futaba MC230 or 330, or the standard Tamiya which is included in some kits. Please note though that you will be limited on motor choice with a budget speedie. Not a concern if you are racing novice/540 or mini.

Steering Servo
Premium models are fast response digitals, such as the Futaba 9451, 9452, 9551, Sanwa VRG or Ko Propo series. Stepping down from there you have the faster analogue servos and cheaper digitals such as the Hitec range. For budget use you could start with the servos that come with most intermediate to budget radio sets.

Batteries
As with the speed controllers, there is a change at the moment from NiMH cells to Lipo. NiMH cells require a bit more maintenance to maintain their life, and you will need a few sets (3-4) to get through a race meeting without overcharging them. LiPo batteries still need to be treated carefully, particularly to ensure they do not drop below thier minimum voltage, but with a LiPo you would only need one to get going. Again, check with your club as not all clubs allow LiPos at the moment.

Charger
A good charger is also an investment. Look for a model that charges both LiPo and NiMH cells. Most top of the line chargers also requie a separate power supply - if you need to but a separate power unit get one that is rated for at least 20 amps.

Tyres
Racing tyre choice deppends on the surface - carpet tends towards foam tyres whilst outdoors use rubber. If you buy a kit that includes tryes they are generally not up to racing. If outdoors try the Sorex range of tyres and inserts and Speedmind rims if you can get them.

Tools
Tool choice can be determined alot by chassis choice. Budget kits tend to use phillips head screws whilst premium models use hex heads. You will also need sockets for removing wheels - Tamiya kits usually include one.

Body
Most clubs use 4 door sedan bodies, with the Mazda 6 and the Dodge Stratus being poular. Tamiya kits will usually include a body and whilst this may be allowed in novice, the included bodies are generally 2 door sports models that are not used in other classes. Keep it as a shelf queen if you get one, and buy an aftermarket body from Protoform, HPI or Blitz.


I thnk this is about all you need to get going but you can be guarateed you will end up buying more once the bug bites.
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Old 04-25-2008, 04:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teehomo View Post
A couple of things you need to consider, most importantly your budget, and secondly, what type of racing you will be doing. This is an expensive hobby but you can still have alot of fun on a budget, just don't expect to mix it with the fast guys straight up. If you have not raced before, you will probably need to start off in the novice/540 or mini class to learn the ropes. If you have some experience perhaps the stock class. Also consider whether you will be outdoors on asphalt/concrete or indoors on carpet, as this can affect your chassis and tyre selection.

I'll try to offer up some choices based primarliy on cost and performance - I'm sure many others will add their thoughts as well. There are plenty of threads on this site hat will give you more information on each choice.

Chassis
Top of the line chassis' include the Xray T2'008, Corally Phi, Serpent S400 and Tamiya TRF416. Good for a wide range of racing, and will take you from novice to mod. The Xrays and Corallys are expensive to repair, the Tamiya probably the cheapest. The next rung of cars incldue the Tamiya TA05 and the Cyclone S - still perform well, are quite urable and parts are cheap. Budget chassis' include the Tamiya M03 Mini (lots of fun if your track has a class) and the Tamiya TT01. These cars are very tough but offer limited options for tuning and chassis setup.

Check with your local hobby shops as to what parts they carry, but there are many reputable online dealers that will carry parts for any chassis you choose.

Radio
Radios are a good investment as they will last you longer than your chassis choice. I'd suggest spending as much as you can here as you will probably only buy one. Top of the line models include the Ko Prop Helios, Futaba 3PK and Spektrum DX3R. If your location allows it, any system running on 2.4ghz or equivalent is recommended as it prevents frequency classhes. Next down includes the JR XS3, the Futaba 3PM and the Spektrum DX3.0. For budget use, try the Futaba 2PL. If buying overseas, make sure the frequency choices are usable in your country.

Speed Controller
There is a move in most clubs towards brushless systems so if you can afford it go with a hybrid system that caters for brushless and brushed. Top of the line are the LRP TC, Novak GTB, Speed Passion GT and the Quark. On the next rung you could try the standard brushed models offered by Novak, LRP or Tekin. Budget offerings include the Futaba MC230 or 330, or the standard Tamiya which is included in some kits. Please note though that you will be limited on motor choice with a budget speedie. Not a concern if you are racing novice/540 or mini.

Steering Servo
Premium models are fast response digitals, such as the Futaba 9451, 9452, 9551, Sanwa VRG or Ko Propo series. Stepping down from there you have the faster analogue servos and cheaper digitals such as the Hitec range. For budget use you could start with the servos that come with most intermediate to budget radio sets.

Batteries
As with the speed controllers, there is a change at the moment from NiMH cells to Lipo. NiMH cells require a bit more maintenance to maintain their life, and you will need a few sets (3-4) to get through a race meeting without overcharging them. LiPo batteries still need to be treated carefully, particularly to ensure they do not drop below thier minimum voltage, but with a LiPo you would only need one to get going. Again, check with your club as not all clubs allow LiPos at the moment.

Charger
A good charger is also an investment. Look for a model that charges both LiPo and NiMH cells. Most top of the line chargers also requie a separate power supply - if you need to but a separate power unit get one that is rated for at least 20 amps.

Tyres
Racing tyre choice deppends on the surface - carpet tends towards foam tyres whilst outdoors use rubber. If you buy a kit that includes tryes they are generally not up to racing. If outdoors try the Sorex range of tyres and inserts and Speedmind rims if you can get them.

Tools
Tool choice can be determined alot by chassis choice. Budget kits tend to use phillips head screws whilst premium models use hex heads. You will also need sockets for removing wheels - Tamiya kits usually include one.

Body
Most clubs use 4 door sedan bodies, with the Mazda 6 and the Dodge Stratus being poular. Tamiya kits will usually include a body and whilst this may be allowed in novice, the included bodies are generally 2 door sports models that are not used in other classes. Keep it as a shelf queen if you get one, and buy an aftermarket body from Protoform, HPI or Blitz.


I thnk this is about all you need to get going but you can be guarateed you will end up buying more once the bug bites.
that is exactly right
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Old 04-27-2008, 02:24 AM   #4
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you could always check on ebay where some people want to get out of the hobby and could be selling everything in one complete package this is usally a good deal and gets you into racing alot faster and you could always upgrade to better stuff later.
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Old 04-27-2008, 08:34 AM   #5
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Go to your local track & find out what the popular classes are. You don't want to be stuck running a 2 man class. With your 1st purchase there are a few things that should be of a high quality. These include
charger(should be lipo compatible)
radio(a used m8 or 3pk is both cheap & a great radio)
servo(get a good servo)
esc(something like the mamba max esc would be a great starter esc since you can run brushed(silver can) & any roar legal bl motor.
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