Terry M

iTrader: (24)

Which is correct?!

1. Measure droop from bottom of chassis out to bottom of hub which sits lower than the arm.

Or...

2. Measure droop from bottom of chassis to bottom of arm on the end?!

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

usually from the chassis to the floor( measured over ride height)

Terry M

iTrader: (24)

I ask because the hubs sit a little bit lower than the arm and touch the gauge before the arm itself does. Would the droop be too low if I set it to the bottom of the hub?

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

There is no right/wrong way to do it. There are a few common ways to do it though. I would suggest you do it the way the manufacturer recommends to do it. It makes it easier to follow setups of the team drivers if they do it the same way. I think you can do it any way you want as long as your consistant.

What kind of car is it?

Steve

Terry M

iTrader: (24)

The car is a TC5. This is a new build and hasn't been run yet.

PutAwayWet

iTrader: (1)

However you measure droop, think of it in relation to ride height and tweak. A quick and dirty way is to start with your car loaded up, set your ride height, and then slide your gauge under the chassis until the wheels of whichever end you're measuring come off the board. Use your droop screws to make the wheels come off simultaneously. Subtract your ride height and there is a measurement for "droop."

Another, more accurate method is to set your chassis on the board, wheels and shocks off, and measure from the board to the top of the axle with a ruler. This way, of course, a smaller measurement equals greater chassis travel above ride height. Set both sides the same. Then go back to the previous method. And if the wheels don't come off at the same time you know you have some issues somewhere. It might be the chassis itself, or the shock ends might be a little unequal, or you might have a slightly bent ball stud, or any of a dozen or so things. Chase it down as time allows. Otherwise try to equal it out with the screws. If it takes more than half a turn, you should consider your car "tweaked" and it deserves more attention.

chris_dono

From what I've picked up over the last year or so...

Droop in a touring car with rubber tyres is synonimous with the downstop values, whereas it's slightly different for foams.

Disconnect the shocks and any anti-roll bars so that the arms hang freely, then set the chassis on some blocks without the wheel on.
Measure under the arms where the set screws go in and adjust the downstops from there to get your "droop" value.

After this, reconnect everything and do your ride height as normal by adjusting the preload in your shocks.

Higher number = less travel
Lower number = more travel

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

Nobody bothered to ask, are you running Rubber Tire or Foam Tires on your TC5?

Since Rubber Tires barely change diameters throughout their life, the downstop values measured from the Hub/Suspension is more consistent and easy. After you do this, you only need to tweak the screws left and right to assure the tires lift off the ground at the same time.

For FOAM Tires, "droop" (not downstop) has to be checked anytime the tire diameters change. The droop value is measured from ride-height. Droop is attained by subtracting the static ride height (bottom of chassis to ground with tires and shocks) from the chassis height at which the tires lift off the ground, or setup board. As the tire diameter changes, the droop value will change, and will need to be rechecked.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

Droop settings don't change, but uptravel is affected when changing ride height.....

Terry M

iTrader: (24)

I'm using Jaco Green rubber premounts. I downloaded the Xray setup guide from their site and they started with their downstops at 5 using blocks and a droop gauge. Is 5 just a starting point?

I'm trying to achieve...

Front
5mm...ride height
5.5... droop

Rear
5.25mm...ride height
4.5...droop

FOXY923

Your using an XRAY setup on your TC5? I know cars now a days look "similar" but I don't think you can use a setup from one car to the next. What do I know. You can't find a rubber tire setup for the TC5?

Terry M

iTrader: (24)

Oh I can find a rubber tire setup...that's not the problem.

Lets just say that Associated doesn't do a very good job of explaining "how" to dial in the car. The manual is very vague...at best.

Droop

The standard settings of 5mm front and 4mm rear will work best in most cases.
Reducing the droop by 0.5 to 1mm both front and rear will increase responsiveness.
On carpet, you should run more droop to account for smaller tire diameters.

Ride Height

The standard starting point for ride height is 4.5mm (keep in mind that your local track may have minimum ride height requirements). You can slightly raise the rear relative to the front to give more steering. Raise the car slightly for tracks with large bumps.

FOXY923

If you can. Pick up a copy of the XXX-main set up book by Martin Crisp. Or grab a copy of the XRAY setup guide.

If your main concern is where to measure the droop (down stop setting). Just pick a spot and use that same spot on all 4 corners of the car. The XRAY book says to use the hub but not the set screw nub. I think as long as you use the same spot and both left to right on the front & rear are equal you'll be fine. So go with the setting you had mentioned then hit the track...well, run the car on the track trying to avoid hitting things

Terry M

iTrader: (24)

I downloaded some pages from the Xray setup guide and that has helped. If anyone has a XXX main book for cheap let me know.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Here's a fairly easy way to do things for rubber tires:
*Put on the tires you'll use.

*Back out the droop screws until flush with the arm

*Set the ride height to what you want (let's say 5mm all around) with a gauge

*Lets say you want 5mm droop (to make things easy). Put the ride height gauge under the spot where the droop screw hits the chassis. You should be on the 10mm step (5mm ride ht. + 5mm droop = 10mm total). Now you should be able to grab a tire and rotate it, which should also move the car back and forth. Don't do it too much or you'll move the chassis off the gauge, wienerschnitzel. What you want to do now is screw in the droop screw until the wheel can rotate without moving the car. It should be just barely touching the table or board.

*Do this for the rest of the corners. Then take off the tires.

*Now take your droop gauge, the one they should have given you with the kit, and see what you have. It should be close all the way around. If not, use the gauge to adjust them all the same.

Basically, you are trying to set the actual droop for a baseline, and then the gauge can be used to quickly change things once you know what the numbers mean. If 6 on the gauge gives you 5mm of droop, you know that the next step up on the gauge should give you 4mm, and the next step down 6mm.