Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
1 cell lipo mod requires the use of a Pro. Lower voltage means higher current draw so you will need the RS Pro.
The current limiter we have is not created by current limiting fet's. Our is software driven and will not create higher speedo temps.
If you're having radio calibration issues there are a few things to check. Check your nuetral width and make sure it's not too low for your transmitter. Understand that transmitters often have linkages,etc on the trigger that do wear over time.
Also as others have suggest make sure to set your epa's evely on throttle/brake so in the case of the M8 I reccomend 140/140, calibrate the speedo and go.
The current limiter we have is not created by current limiting fet's. Our is software driven and will not create higher speedo temps.
If you're having radio calibration issues there are a few things to check. Check your nuetral width and make sure it's not too low for your transmitter. Understand that transmitters often have linkages,etc on the trigger that do wear over time.
Also as others have suggest make sure to set your epa's evely on throttle/brake so in the case of the M8 I reccomend 140/140, calibrate the speedo and go.
What would make it change after weeks of working perfectly? All of a sudden, the radio does not bind and the only fix is to move to a new model on the radio. Tried changing the nuetral width a bunch, but nothing. Very weird. When it works, it's awesome.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
For anyone on a mac looking for parallels to run windows and hotwire there is a mini sale of sorts on a software bundle for macs here for the next 6 days:
http://www.mupromo.com/?ref=8031
http://www.mupromo.com/?ref=8031
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
I spent a day at the track with a club mate of mine, I was running the RS with 203 and he was running the SP GT 2 with 230(Supercharger) and it was very quick and maybe just gave away a little on the straight. A new revision from SP came out this week so I think they'll be right with our Tekins now.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (144)
There may already be one on here in the hundreds of pages but...Does anyone have a good set up for an rspro with and LRP X12 17.5 and 13.5?
Tech Regular
thx Randy
Tech Master
I spent a day at the track with a club mate of mine, I was running the RS with 203 and he was running the SP GT 2 with 230(Supercharger) and it was very quick and maybe just gave away a little on the straight. A new revision from SP came out this week so I think they'll be right with our Tekins now.
The speed's of the speedo's are again closer and closer. Just like the SPX time.
That's good for the competition.
Tech Apprentice
When driving 1 cell lipo with the receiver pack should i have the esc on or off?
Hi guys
Should I change anything on the speedo set-up, when changing from 2s lipo to 5 sub c cells??
I´m pretty happy with the 2s set-up, its for 17.5 brushless.
Thanx.
Should I change anything on the speedo set-up, when changing from 2s lipo to 5 sub c cells??
I´m pretty happy with the 2s set-up, its for 17.5 brushless.
Thanx.
Tech Master
iTrader: (75)
Question about rspro and 3s
I have an rspro with a 9k mamba motor, and I was wondering if I need to change to a different cap on the esc. I tried this once and it blew the cap apart.. The esc is working perfect but I didn't want to buy the same cap. Im not running this in a touring car and its only for a sec and a half. What cap is suggested?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Tech Regular
sounds like someone is drag racing.....
i think the best idea would be to parallel a bunch of tekin caps. i know for regular racing you want 2 for a 9000kv motor or anything close to that hot. for drag racing just get more. try 3 or 4 caps. i think its just an issue of reliability and not heat. that first second if you are running with traction additives is brutally high current and rough on everything. especially when you run sensorless. it might even make the batteries a little happier
another trick that i saw work with the mamba speed control is to tap the gas or roll the car a few seconds before launching. seems to help the speed control startup the motor. when a car twitches a little before it goes, it is a massive current spike if the throttle is nailed and also costs you time off the line.
i think the best idea would be to parallel a bunch of tekin caps. i know for regular racing you want 2 for a 9000kv motor or anything close to that hot. for drag racing just get more. try 3 or 4 caps. i think its just an issue of reliability and not heat. that first second if you are running with traction additives is brutally high current and rough on everything. especially when you run sensorless. it might even make the batteries a little happier
another trick that i saw work with the mamba speed control is to tap the gas or roll the car a few seconds before launching. seems to help the speed control startup the motor. when a car twitches a little before it goes, it is a massive current spike if the throttle is nailed and also costs you time off the line.
Tech Master
iTrader: (75)
Thanks for the reply.. Yes its a little drag racing lol. I've been using the mamba monster for a while and changed to the mamba pro. The pro is nice but is a bit lower in power out compared to the monster. I have to turn the power up quite a bit more to run the same so I wanted to try the rspro out. It seems like a good esc, but I really don't like the idea of adding 3 and 4 caps to make it work like I need it to.. Looks like it has to go lol...
Again, thanks for the response..
Again, thanks for the response..
If you're drag racing you should be using a few larger caps OR a few of our TT3520 caps in parallel. So far most of the guys I've spoken to are using some wire braid and making a "rail" of these caps. Remember that the closer the cap is to the esc the better.
Tech Rookie
quik ?
I have spektrum dx3s. Can bind it with a spektrum dsm sr3000rx? There is only bind button not a plug.