Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Master
As you set a basic setup with RPM that's wider from each other and you race the Boost and set the Turbo on 0. You will go a lot faster than before.
Just try it, you will be very happy.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
Has anyone tried reversing the order of turbo boost and timing boost? I assume if you set turbo boost delay to 0.0 and your start RPM higher then you could basically reverse the two. Just curious what that does or if that would even work.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
You can, but the problem is that in the infield you would never really pull full throttle long enough and your timing would be way to low the whole time.
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
What I found is that the timing boost does not seem to do anything below 30-deg of timing. I check the max rpm with the Sentry at 0, 10, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, and 45 deg of timing, and not until I reach 30-deg did I see an rpm increase, and only by 500rpm's on a 13.5 Duo2 1S, and 2500rpm's on a 13.5 Ballistic 2S.
When I added Turbo timing to both setup's, the rpm's increased drastically, and varied depending on base timing, boost timing, and turbo timing.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
I would have to say No from my recent bench testing while hooked up and logging with the Novak Sentry.
What I found is that the timing boost does not seem to do anything below 30-deg of timing. I check the max rpm with the Sentry at 0, 10, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, and 45 deg of timing, and not until I reach 30-deg did I see an rpm increase, and only by 500rpm's on a 13.5 Duo2 1S, and 2500rpm's on a 13.5 Ballistic 2S.
When I added Turbo timing to both setup's, the rpm's increased drastically, and varied depending on base timing, boost timing, and turbo timing.
What I found is that the timing boost does not seem to do anything below 30-deg of timing. I check the max rpm with the Sentry at 0, 10, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, and 45 deg of timing, and not until I reach 30-deg did I see an rpm increase, and only by 500rpm's on a 13.5 Duo2 1S, and 2500rpm's on a 13.5 Ballistic 2S.
When I added Turbo timing to both setup's, the rpm's increased drastically, and varied depending on base timing, boost timing, and turbo timing.
I had forgotten turbo only works at full throttle.
Tech Master
Can't wait till tomorrow. Want to race.
My LRP wasn't running smooth so rebuild it and now it's smooth again.
Even more power
Tech Champion
iTrader: (208)
The inexpensive DuraTrax FlashPoint (DTXP3100) temp gauge works fine as long as you place it close enough to thing whose temp you are measuring (it has a broad field of view).
Black tape will act as an insulator so it might artificially lower your temp readings.
A small patch of black Sharpie ink works well. This technique is described in the RS / HotWire doc at http://rcfaq.weebly.com/tekin-rs--hotwire.html .
Black tape will act as an insulator so it might artificially lower your temp readings.
A small patch of black Sharpie ink works well. This technique is described in the RS / HotWire doc at http://rcfaq.weebly.com/tekin-rs--hotwire.html .
Anything silver or any where reflective will screw the results. This is emissivity. There is also a distance required for IR temp guns to operate correctly. Remember you are measuring light waves with an IR temp gun.
...
Last edited by oeoeo327; 01-15-2010 at 02:24 PM. Reason: question was already answered...
I was told that one cannot/should not take temp readings off of any metallic surfaces (Novak SS Pro, for example) as this will most definitely give you improper readings.
I was also recommended to put black electrical tape on the can and to take the readings from there....is this what most people are doing? I noticed a BIG difference between the temp readings on the tape when compared to other portions of the can....
Regards,
MH
I was also recommended to put black electrical tape on the can and to take the readings from there....is this what most people are doing? I noticed a BIG difference between the temp readings on the tape when compared to other portions of the can....
Regards,
MH
The inexpensive DuraTrax FlashPoint (DTXP3100) temp gauge works fine as long as you place it close enough to thing whose temp you are measuring (it has a broad field of view).
Black tape will act as an insulator so it might artificially lower your temp readings.
A small patch of black Sharpie ink works well. This technique is described in the RS / HotWire doc at http://rcfaq.weebly.com/tekin-rs--hotwire.html .
Black tape will act as an insulator so it might artificially lower your temp readings.
A small patch of black Sharpie ink works well. This technique is described in the RS / HotWire doc at http://rcfaq.weebly.com/tekin-rs--hotwire.html .
I found that the temps on the tape are higher than anywhere else.
If you can find an area on the motor that is hotter, then use that!
As for accuracy of temp guns, of course the more expensive guns will be better, but we are only talking a few percent. We are measuring the temp in toy motors, not something important.
Skiddins
Tech Regular
Reflective surfaces will cause problems with readings, so I stuck a small piece of duct tape near the endbell.
I found that the temps on the tape are higher than anywhere else.
If you can find an area on the motor that is hotter, then use that!
As for accuracy of temp guns, of course the more expensive guns will be better, but we are only talking a few percent. We are measuring the temp in toy motors, not something important.
Skiddins
I found that the temps on the tape are higher than anywhere else.
If you can find an area on the motor that is hotter, then use that!
As for accuracy of temp guns, of course the more expensive guns will be better, but we are only talking a few percent. We are measuring the temp in toy motors, not something important.
Skiddins
Thx.
Tech Adept
I would have to say No from my recent bench testing while hooked up and logging with the Novak Sentry.
What I found is that the timing boost does not seem to do anything below 30-deg of timing. I check the max rpm with the Sentry at 0, 10, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, and 45 deg of timing, and not until I reach 30-deg did I see an rpm increase, and only by 500rpm's on a 13.5 Duo2 1S, and 2500rpm's on a 13.5 Ballistic 2S.
When I added Turbo timing to both setup's, the rpm's increased drastically, and varied depending on base timing, boost timing, and turbo timing.
What I found is that the timing boost does not seem to do anything below 30-deg of timing. I check the max rpm with the Sentry at 0, 10, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, and 45 deg of timing, and not until I reach 30-deg did I see an rpm increase, and only by 500rpm's on a 13.5 Duo2 1S, and 2500rpm's on a 13.5 Ballistic 2S.
When I added Turbo timing to both setup's, the rpm's increased drastically, and varied depending on base timing, boost timing, and turbo timing.
There is one fundamental problem with the process of "bench testing". That is there is no load on the motor. You can easily "bench test" a setting that applies way to much timing at to quick of an advance rate. It sounds impressive on the "bench test", but under load on the track it may be severly bogged down and overheat the motor quickly. There was a guy on here about 100 posts back that was doing this and was shocked to get a temp back of well north of 200*. "Track Testing" is way more valuable than "Bench Testing"
Tech Regular
I'm sure that your findings give you some relationship to the point where Timing advance starts to pick up. Several of the Tekin guys have talked about 40 being the spot where a setup should start as that is where advance starts to produce. Then work your way up to the 50 range and beyond.
There is one fundamental problem with the process of "bench testing". That is there is no load on the motor. You can easily "bench test" a setting that applies way to much timing at to quick of an advance rate. It sounds impressive on the "bench test", but under load on the track it may be severly bogged down and overheat the motor quickly. There was a guy on here about 100 posts back that was doing this and was shocked to get a temp back of well north of 200*. "Track Testing" is way more valuable than "Bench Testing"
There is one fundamental problem with the process of "bench testing". That is there is no load on the motor. You can easily "bench test" a setting that applies way to much timing at to quick of an advance rate. It sounds impressive on the "bench test", but under load on the track it may be severly bogged down and overheat the motor quickly. There was a guy on here about 100 posts back that was doing this and was shocked to get a temp back of well north of 200*. "Track Testing" is way more valuable than "Bench Testing"
So it's seems that the sweet spot for timing boost is between 40 and 50. What would happen should the car (TC) be overgeared (without knowing), is this just a case of poor acceleration, or mostly a potential overtemp situation?
I find it challenging trying to find the appropriate gearing. Currently I my timing boost is at 20, turbo 20, but my FDR = 4.0 (TC 2S, 17.5, track 75X40). Temps are good, acceleration seems good, but I am apprehensive to inbcrease the timing boost to 40 or 50.
Any suggestions for testing? Change gearing prior to testing high timing boost, or test with existing gearing (high timing boost) and check motor temp often?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
MH
Tech Adept
So it's seems that the sweet spot for timing boost is between 40 and 50. What would happen should the car (TC) be overgeared (without knowing), is this just a case of poor acceleration, or mostly a potential overtemp situation?
I find it challenging trying to find the appropriate gearing. Currently I my timing boost is at 20, turbo 20, but my FDR = 4.0 (TC 2S, 17.5, track 75X40). Temps are good, acceleration seems good, but I am apprehensive to inbcrease the timing boost to 40 or 50.
Any suggestions for testing? Change gearing prior to testing high timing boost, or test with existing gearing (high timing boost) and check motor temp often?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
MH
I find it challenging trying to find the appropriate gearing. Currently I my timing boost is at 20, turbo 20, but my FDR = 4.0 (TC 2S, 17.5, track 75X40). Temps are good, acceleration seems good, but I am apprehensive to inbcrease the timing boost to 40 or 50.
Any suggestions for testing? Change gearing prior to testing high timing boost, or test with existing gearing (high timing boost) and check motor temp often?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
MH
For my car, I have used 6 teeth (48pitch) less on the pinion with the added boost & turbo while maintaining the same temp. (2S TC, 11.5)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (208)
Tech Regular
Thx