Tekin RS ESC sensored
#6287
Pakk: We can't reveal everything we're doing. Your "theory" is logical for the most part.
Capt's Radio/ESC issue can be related to heat though. When things get warm resistance does change a bit, sometimes "just enough." I have seen some radio's be more sensitive than others. I give Clint a tough time about his "choice" of radio at often.
You are correct in stating that on Norcal's current layout that you may never reach full turbo. There is no harm setting it on full however as if you got a killer drive out of the 180 before it you might get to say 11 degrees versus your setting of 10. If the current layout was to say have a sweeper preceeding that straight you very well might get to full turbo.
Why can't you have it earlier? Great question. If we allowed you to get this much timing sooner you could potentially add so much timing you would literally melt the motor down. Under speed on the track too much timing is often not "felt" as cogging or miscomutation since the car is moving. However this is "seen" in super high motor temps that are out of the ordinary.
If you need more timing before this delay you should be able to get what you need using motor timing and or boost timing. It's often overlooked on motors that some use since you're stuck with "holes" or "positions." If you look at a few of our team drivers setups from tracks like Norcal or Speedworld you will see motor timing around 10 degrees or a bit more.
If someone were to say run .3 on the delay along with 10 on the motor and 20 on timing boost on a track that had only an 80ft straight away this would be most likely result in a motor failure. We didn't limit you to .5 because you're trustworthy, rather because if you need it sooner than this motor timing and timing boost should cover this timeframe.
I can't go into more detail as this will give away information that is valuable to R&D. We're constantly making changes that benefit the racer. Perhaps this is just a "taste" of what's to come....
Capt's Radio/ESC issue can be related to heat though. When things get warm resistance does change a bit, sometimes "just enough." I have seen some radio's be more sensitive than others. I give Clint a tough time about his "choice" of radio at often.
You are correct in stating that on Norcal's current layout that you may never reach full turbo. There is no harm setting it on full however as if you got a killer drive out of the 180 before it you might get to say 11 degrees versus your setting of 10. If the current layout was to say have a sweeper preceeding that straight you very well might get to full turbo.
Why can't you have it earlier? Great question. If we allowed you to get this much timing sooner you could potentially add so much timing you would literally melt the motor down. Under speed on the track too much timing is often not "felt" as cogging or miscomutation since the car is moving. However this is "seen" in super high motor temps that are out of the ordinary.
If you need more timing before this delay you should be able to get what you need using motor timing and or boost timing. It's often overlooked on motors that some use since you're stuck with "holes" or "positions." If you look at a few of our team drivers setups from tracks like Norcal or Speedworld you will see motor timing around 10 degrees or a bit more.
If someone were to say run .3 on the delay along with 10 on the motor and 20 on timing boost on a track that had only an 80ft straight away this would be most likely result in a motor failure. We didn't limit you to .5 because you're trustworthy, rather because if you need it sooner than this motor timing and timing boost should cover this timeframe.
I can't go into more detail as this will give away information that is valuable to R&D. We're constantly making changes that benefit the racer. Perhaps this is just a "taste" of what's to come....
That response is wrong in so many ways. It's like a suprise "To Be Continued" of a REALLY good law and order episode. Like the one when the blonde DA got killed and it was fake to put her in protection. But, the response is well understood and I'll leave it at that. I can't wait to see what else you guys have in store.
If you need another tester, I'm only an email away.
--pakk
#6288
Pakk, thanks for understanding. We've often times offered up too much information that we feel is being used by "others" to improve products. It's time for Tekin to keep quiet and simply provide constant support along with software upgrades that make our toy cars faster each time. I don't intentionally try to leave anyone hanging. Hell someone said I was an "r/c crack dealer" a few pages back!
Thanks for understanding.
Thanks for understanding.
#6289
randy that was me that said that and yes you totally are a rc crack dealer. but hey its what keeps them comin back. randy you better come up for april fools this year in utah. just to show us how its really done!!!!!
pakk yes 200 is out but i think randy needed to give the software guys time to let their bloody welt marks heal a little before he starts whippin them again
pakk yes 200 is out but i think randy needed to give the software guys time to let their bloody welt marks heal a little before he starts whippin them again
#6291
What's your motor timing on this setup? Thanks.
Tested the 10.5 Redline + RS (v200) on a technical track with relatively short straight (60 ft).
Car: Tamiya TA-05 IFS, front spool, rear ball diff.
Radio: Futaba 3PM 2.4G, receiver: Futaba R603FF
FDR: 6.85
Battery: 4200 Mah LIPO
DB: 15
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 45
MT: 3
TP: 5
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 15
Turbo: max
Turbo delay: 0.5
Track temp: 82F
Motor temp: 120F after 15 minute run.
My car was very fast, easily gaining on another car fitted with 4.5T BL, both on the straight and infield. The turbo kicks in almost immediately after I hit the straight, but it is too short to hit the max rpm. Accelleration coming onto the straight is awesome.
I have to adjust the setup a bit to make sure that I don't lose traction at the end of the straight where it goes into a wide 90 degree turn. Probably increase DB to 20 to slow down a bit more before entering the turn.
I only use drag brake despite the track being very technical with multiple hair pin turns. I found dragbrake sufficient.
Car: Tamiya TA-05 IFS, front spool, rear ball diff.
Radio: Futaba 3PM 2.4G, receiver: Futaba R603FF
FDR: 6.85
Battery: 4200 Mah LIPO
DB: 15
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 45
MT: 3
TP: 5
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 15
Turbo: max
Turbo delay: 0.5
Track temp: 82F
Motor temp: 120F after 15 minute run.
My car was very fast, easily gaining on another car fitted with 4.5T BL, both on the straight and infield. The turbo kicks in almost immediately after I hit the straight, but it is too short to hit the max rpm. Accelleration coming onto the straight is awesome.
I have to adjust the setup a bit to make sure that I don't lose traction at the end of the straight where it goes into a wide 90 degree turn. Probably increase DB to 20 to slow down a bit more before entering the turn.
I only use drag brake despite the track being very technical with multiple hair pin turns. I found dragbrake sufficient.
#6292
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
Hey guys
Does anyone have any good v200 settings for 2wd buggy (B4) with Tekin RS and Redline 17.5. Track pics below, I dont know exact distances sorry. It only has two straights one is roughly 50ft the other about 30ft.
Attachment 489741Attachment 489742Attachment 489743
Cheers
Adrian
Does anyone have any good v200 settings for 2wd buggy (B4) with Tekin RS and Redline 17.5. Track pics below, I dont know exact distances sorry. It only has two straights one is roughly 50ft the other about 30ft.
Attachment 489741Attachment 489742Attachment 489743
Cheers
Adrian
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: min
MT: 1
TP: 3
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: max
Turbo delay: 0.5
FDR of 6.93 and endbell timing 10 degree's
Thanks
Adrian
#6293
From what I remember reading on this thread, turbo and dirt don't mix. That guys that tried using it just ended up turning it off. All the cars would do is spin out. Ill see if I can find the post.
--pakk
post #5547
He says RX8, but the RX8 is a pro with better cooling.
--pakk
post #5547
He says RX8, but the RX8 is a pro with better cooling.
#6294
Damn no-one must run the 17.5 in the AE B4 2wd buggy. How would these settings go? If anyone can let me know if I'm on the right track that would be great.
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: min
MT: 1
TP: 3
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: max
Turbo delay: 0.5
FDR of 6.93 and endbell timing 10 degree's
Thanks
Adrian
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: min
MT: 1
TP: 3
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: max
Turbo delay: 0.5
FDR of 6.93 and endbell timing 10 degree's
Thanks
Adrian
#6295
sorry cpt but there can only be one superhero on this thread and its already taken by randy.
hey randy when is the superhero doll of you sportin a red tekin cape gonna be out??? I definatly want one of those!!!!!
hey randy when is the superhero doll of you sportin a red tekin cape gonna be out??? I definatly want one of those!!!!!
#6296
I have my setup now like on smooth acceleration.
It's testing and trying to find a good balance.
Here is my setup with a Speedpassion motor on my home track.
It's not as smooth as the setup I use with my Tekin motor but this is the fastest setup I got with it for so far.
I try tomorrow a lower boost and a heavier lower FDR.
I use quit a high Boost because of the straight.
It's testing and trying to find a good balance.
Here is my setup with a Speedpassion motor on my home track.
It's not as smooth as the setup I use with my Tekin motor but this is the fastest setup I got with it for so far.
I try tomorrow a lower boost and a heavier lower FDR.
I use quit a high Boost because of the straight.
#6297
The SP comes std with a 12.3mm rotor.
Same for the 13.5 but not sure on the 17.5.
Same for the 13.5 but not sure on the 17.5.
#6298
Tekin rs pro update
Hi i am looking for the update for the tekin update for the software (esc) and have heard there is a 200 version out? where can i find it?
P.S I love my Tekin.
P.S I love my Tekin.
#6299
Tech Adept
#6300
Off road demands a very different driving style to off road, simply put with off road you cannot use full throttle as much becuase the grip level can vary much more and can be overkill in the bottom end - top speed may take longer to achieve, since you're negotiating jumps etc.
You need a comfortable amount of power at your disposal on the bottom end. So you either control it with your thumbs, or through your electronics/settings...
Turbo might be worth using on a high bite track, where the power can be put down easily and there is a good amount of space to get to speed.
Might be better to try turning it off first, and going up slowly and seeing if it helps.
I don't currently race off road though, so using my past thoughts as a possible explanation...