Tekin RS ESC sensored
07-28-2009, 04:25 AM
#5356
so say 3.00 FDR is lighter than a 4/00 FDR
07-28-2009, 04:25 AM
#5357
Tech Regular
Software 198 settings and rollout on a 5.5 help please
My RS is currently sitting in a GT10 using 1S lipo for the very first time. Novak booster fitted.
A REDLINE 5.5BL fitted looking for rollout and ESC settings.Plan to run indoors on carpet .
Any help appreciated.
A REDLINE 5.5BL fitted looking for rollout and ESC settings.Plan to run indoors on carpet .
Any help appreciated.
07-28-2009, 04:32 AM
#5358
Tech Master
07-28-2009, 04:35 AM
#5359
ok thanks for clearing that up mikky
Alex
Alex
07-28-2009, 05:47 AM
#5360
07-28-2009, 05:51 AM
#5361
You're giving the motor more load with a lower gear ratio, hence the heat
High ratio = Top speed
Low ratio = Acceleration
07-28-2009, 06:04 AM
#5362
Alex
07-28-2009, 06:22 AM
#5363
Sorry guys, uber,uber busy day in the office 
Yes, exactly what you are describing... I would call 8.0 fdr a high ratio, a 4.0 a low ratio, if that contradicts what i've said already
A wrong gear ratio will heat the motor up more, whatever way you look at it.
A high ratio on a big track can make you hit your peak rpm too early, a low ratio on a small track will take you a century (and several wide corners) to find the top end speed such ratio gives, with no low down torque...
Think of it as trying to accelerate to full speed in a full size car when you're in 5th gear and going slowly. Its not healthy for an engine, its probably not healthy for an ESC/motor either...
Yes, exactly what you are describing... I would call 8.0 fdr a high ratio, a 4.0 a low ratio, if that contradicts what i've said already
A wrong gear ratio will heat the motor up more, whatever way you look at it.
A high ratio on a big track can make you hit your peak rpm too early, a low ratio on a small track will take you a century (and several wide corners) to find the top end speed such ratio gives, with no low down torque...
Think of it as trying to accelerate to full speed in a full size car when you're in 5th gear and going slowly. Its not healthy for an engine, its probably not healthy for an ESC/motor either...
Last edited by tc3team; 07-28-2009 at 07:03 AM.
07-28-2009, 06:27 AM
#5364
Has anyone had any probs burning an RS when using too much timing?? Or I guess that can be the only thing that could've burnt mine past weekend.
I drive 1/12th 4cell and was driving a GM EVO3 9.5 with a new rotor (12.5mm) in it. I had the motor on std timing and had the advanced timing set on about 2/3rds of what can be set (I think 20).
Running free the motor had an incredible amount of revs, on track it wasnt that impressive. I raced the same setup, gearing on this EVO3 with my R1 for over a year without any heat probs (3-4 leds showing).
The RS ran fine for about 20 packs, had good rip on another 9.5 motor.
The EVO3 was working fine in my PRO10 on a 7.4Lipo using a R1 pro.
Ran 3 batteries with the evo3 and the RS, first 2 runs only 4 leds showing heat. 3rd run the car stalls on the straight, all LEDs blinking and I measured 100degr.C . But it smelled burnt.
Let it cool, now it only says wrong motortype connected.
Personally I think its strange the Temp protection kicks in when the ESC has prolly already received deadly heat.
I asked a repair number at Tekin and I'm waiting for it. I know their service is top notch and I kinda hope they offer a swap action (with extra money of course).
But I dont want this prob to happen again, so would it be possible to destrao the ESC when setting too much timing (which I even doubt I did).
I drive 1/12th 4cell and was driving a GM EVO3 9.5 with a new rotor (12.5mm) in it. I had the motor on std timing and had the advanced timing set on about 2/3rds of what can be set (I think 20).
Running free the motor had an incredible amount of revs, on track it wasnt that impressive. I raced the same setup, gearing on this EVO3 with my R1 for over a year without any heat probs (3-4 leds showing).
The RS ran fine for about 20 packs, had good rip on another 9.5 motor.
The EVO3 was working fine in my PRO10 on a 7.4Lipo using a R1 pro.
Ran 3 batteries with the evo3 and the RS, first 2 runs only 4 leds showing heat. 3rd run the car stalls on the straight, all LEDs blinking and I measured 100degr.C . But it smelled burnt.
Let it cool, now it only says wrong motortype connected.
Personally I think its strange the Temp protection kicks in when the ESC has prolly already received deadly heat.
I asked a repair number at Tekin and I'm waiting for it. I know their service is top notch and I kinda hope they offer a swap action (with extra money of course).
But I dont want this prob to happen again, so would it be possible to destrao the ESC when setting too much timing (which I even doubt I did).
Last edited by Bob~H; 07-28-2009 at 06:31 AM. Reason: add info
07-28-2009, 06:29 AM
#5365
Tech Master
sorry I made a mistake.
3,0 is heavier than 4,0FDR.
sorry hath to go to the dentist!!
3,0 is heavier than 4,0FDR.
sorry hath to go to the dentist!!
07-28-2009, 06:40 AM
#5366
Heavy = low gear ratio 4.00
Light = high gear ratio 3.00
Alex
Light = high gear ratio 3.00
Alex
07-28-2009, 06:48 AM
#5367
Tech Master
07-28-2009, 06:50 AM
#5368
I had a similar problem. I thought that I had fried my RS Pro because it would not work, saying wrong motor type. It was actually my motor that had a burned winding, the RS was fine. Another racer I race with had a car loose all power, when the turn marshal pulled the car off of the track the solder joints had actually come unsoldered from the heat. The RS was fine but the motor had burned a winding which had dead shorted the motor. Both of these situations were caused by having too much timing in these motors over long periods of time. My motor had seven 5 minute races on it before this happened, my friends about the same.
But I'll check the EVO3 on one of my R1's to make sure.
In 4 cell 9.5t applications you always use a lot of timing, You cant compare this to 6 cell or LIPO racing... . The motor itself wasnt really warm, under 50degr C.
Sadly the ESC itself does smell quite burned so I'm guessing a few FETs burned. This will prolly also explain the error it gives, it also gives it without the motor wires attached to the ESC.
07-28-2009, 06:59 AM
#5369
07-28-2009, 07:24 AM
#5370
im starting with Tekin RS, updating my esc with hotwire, show me the green box, reading some posts here on thread, i tried to change the values, and download to esc but persists the green box, im using the 198 firmware and using with brushed motors, maybe this is a problem?
Ps.: sorry for my bad english
Ps.: sorry for my bad english