Tekin RS ESC sensored
#4772
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
Thanks for the info, now I am really not running single cell lipos. Will be running world gt mod 2 cell. Just wanted options for single cell in case I wanted to possibly run that class. That single cell thing is just turning some people off, well at least it has of for me. Anyways no single cell in my car.
Anyway, the 1s check box works fine in the RS, and I set my custom cutoff to 3.1 volts.
#4773
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
Why? because you have to wire up a 30$ booster?
Yes, just not the best way of going about this and adding additional components to an already limited real estate on pan cars to setup your electronics.
It's painfully easy, you are 95% as fast as the 4cell crew, and it takes a bit of headache away from racing not having to worry about battery maintenance. It's a win/win no matter how you slice it.
It's not that I can't do it, just not worth it again we are being allowed to run mod in world gt and that is good enough for me. Been running 2 cell for over a year and to back track, no thanks.
Yes, just not the best way of going about this and adding additional components to an already limited real estate on pan cars to setup your electronics.
It's painfully easy, you are 95% as fast as the 4cell crew, and it takes a bit of headache away from racing not having to worry about battery maintenance. It's a win/win no matter how you slice it.
It's not that I can't do it, just not worth it again we are being allowed to run mod in world gt and that is good enough for me. Been running 2 cell for over a year and to back track, no thanks.
..
#4775
Give it full boost, zero or very little motor timing then the rest is up to you really. I turn reverse off and have full brakes, no drag brake and as I use LIPO, set a 6.5 V cutoff. Profile is a personal thing and run sensored only. I found quite a bit of extra pace by adding a little motor timing as well as boost but that heats motor up a lot more than boost, and was very limited before pace fell off again with too much timing.
#4776
Brakes seem very dependant on which brand of motor you use, my Tekin gives a great deal more than my Novak.
#4777
Tech Master
I found out my problem that I hat this sunday with the race.
My C Hub was broken and my spool was broken.
Fikst it and I'm using now a one way.
Tested the Tekin 10,5T motor with lipo.
The Tekin was accelerating faster than a SPX with a Orion 9,5T.
The Tekin hath the same top speed as the other car.
He was also running lipo.
The other driver was surprised to see that it was a 10,5T.
Both motors temp were 55 C.
So no temperature problems.
This Saturday I hope that I can barrow a lipo to race the Saturday evening race.
This is on a big track were I can test the Turbo again.
It's a high speed track and I belief that the Tekin motor will go great there.
I tested it already with 5 cell there and it was fast.
My C Hub was broken and my spool was broken.
Fikst it and I'm using now a one way.
Tested the Tekin 10,5T motor with lipo.
The Tekin was accelerating faster than a SPX with a Orion 9,5T.
The Tekin hath the same top speed as the other car.
He was also running lipo.
The other driver was surprised to see that it was a 10,5T.
Both motors temp were 55 C.
So no temperature problems.
This Saturday I hope that I can barrow a lipo to race the Saturday evening race.
This is on a big track were I can test the Turbo again.
It's a high speed track and I belief that the Tekin motor will go great there.
I tested it already with 5 cell there and it was fast.
#4778
We will have the public version very soon. It won't be 199 rather 200. There is a known issue with 199 that I don't want to have customers/racers deal with. It can be "worked around" but I would rather make it right.
Right not our drivers have been instructed to not share this software because of the issue. The team WILL be encouraged to share the new 200 version!
It's like a "questionable" photo of your girlfriend or wife, once it get's out you can never get it back...
I don't mean to be harsh but I feel strongly about this issue. I'd rather give you software and some known good setups that I can post with it so EVERYONE can hit the track and be close, close enough to whup some ars with the RS!
Guys run the cap that comes with the RS, it keeps the speedo cool.
The 448 is a bit much on a standard RS but I've done it. Make sure to get a 2nd cap to help and your gearing needs to be correct.
The cap is a 16v 330uf cap. The one we spec out has low ESR. I've had good luck with our G11 caps also which were 16v 1000uf standard caps.
Place them as close to the speedo for best results.
Right not our drivers have been instructed to not share this software because of the issue. The team WILL be encouraged to share the new 200 version!
It's like a "questionable" photo of your girlfriend or wife, once it get's out you can never get it back...
I don't mean to be harsh but I feel strongly about this issue. I'd rather give you software and some known good setups that I can post with it so EVERYONE can hit the track and be close, close enough to whup some ars with the RS!
Guys run the cap that comes with the RS, it keeps the speedo cool.
The 448 is a bit much on a standard RS but I've done it. Make sure to get a 2nd cap to help and your gearing needs to be correct.
The cap is a 16v 330uf cap. The one we spec out has low ESR. I've had good luck with our G11 caps also which were 16v 1000uf standard caps.
Place them as close to the speedo for best results.
Can someone post a pic of the with the wires attached? I was wondering if it is ok to remove the 5 posts and attach the wires directly to the holes in the board? Or do the posts have a needed or practical purpose. I am not a fan of spiderweb wiring jobs and will be mounting this in an F104 and need to keep the wires inside a tight location on the side of the car.
--pakk
#4779
just got myself a tekin speedi and was woundering if any one has run it with a lrp 11x 17.5 and what a goo gear ratio would be
#4780
I'm running 1/10 TC with Li-Po and the RS with v198 and a 13.5 indoors on a 60'x30' (20mx10m) carpet track.
If I run max boost like everyone seems to recomend, I have to gear down which is fine because my top speed is still good, but I have NO punch out of the corners. It makes the car smooth to drive but I'm giving away lap time I'm sure.
I haven't found the right combo yet but I'm looking at gearing up by 5 teeth (48p) and droping the boost back to zero (at first).
The question is- is this right? Everyone seems to be pushing the boost pretty hard but is that defo the wrong way to go in this application? Am I doing the right thing by dropping the boost?
Cheers, Chris.
If I run max boost like everyone seems to recomend, I have to gear down which is fine because my top speed is still good, but I have NO punch out of the corners. It makes the car smooth to drive but I'm giving away lap time I'm sure.
I haven't found the right combo yet but I'm looking at gearing up by 5 teeth (48p) and droping the boost back to zero (at first).
The question is- is this right? Everyone seems to be pushing the boost pretty hard but is that defo the wrong way to go in this application? Am I doing the right thing by dropping the boost?
Cheers, Chris.
#4781
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I'm running 1/10 TC with Li-Po and the RS with v198 and a 13.5 indoors on a 60'x30' (20mx10m) carpet track.
If I run max boost like everyone seems to recomend, I have to gear down which is fine because my top speed is still good, but I have NO punch out of the corners. It makes the car smooth to drive but I'm giving away lap time I'm sure.
I haven't found the right combo yet but I'm looking at gearing up by 5 teeth (48p) and droping the boost back to zero (at first).
The question is- is this right? Everyone seems to be pushing the boost pretty hard but is that defo the wrong way to go in this application? Am I doing the right thing by dropping the boost?
Cheers, Chris.
If I run max boost like everyone seems to recomend, I have to gear down which is fine because my top speed is still good, but I have NO punch out of the corners. It makes the car smooth to drive but I'm giving away lap time I'm sure.
I haven't found the right combo yet but I'm looking at gearing up by 5 teeth (48p) and droping the boost back to zero (at first).
The question is- is this right? Everyone seems to be pushing the boost pretty hard but is that defo the wrong way to go in this application? Am I doing the right thing by dropping the boost?
Cheers, Chris.
#4782
Tech Master
Here more and more racers want a Tekin Redline 10,5T motor.
When they see it, they want it. LOL
A member of an other club told me that I wasn't lying about the speed of the Tekin motor. Now he want's one to and a Tekin RS Pro.
Tekin is growing out here
GM is loosing a lot of drivers
Fastest speedo is the Tekin at the moment.
GM can run the same top speed but than only for 5 laps and the motor is gone.
The Tekin runs all 5 or 6 mints and the motor temp is about 70C.
Tekin is going faster and faster.
The speedo is going better and better and that for that price.
Normally you must buy a new speedo. Tekin just updates it and that even for free.
I can't wait till the next update comes.
When they see it, they want it. LOL
A member of an other club told me that I wasn't lying about the speed of the Tekin motor. Now he want's one to and a Tekin RS Pro.
Tekin is growing out here
GM is loosing a lot of drivers
Fastest speedo is the Tekin at the moment.
GM can run the same top speed but than only for 5 laps and the motor is gone.
The Tekin runs all 5 or 6 mints and the motor temp is about 70C.
Tekin is going faster and faster.
The speedo is going better and better and that for that price.
Normally you must buy a new speedo. Tekin just updates it and that even for free.
I can't wait till the next update comes.
#4783
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
Either way.. in the future, when you change your mind and eventually run it, you will see the RS' 1s checkbox is a nice feature to have on the speedo.
#4784
Bag O Skill, I am improving all my PB's at tracks this year with the RS Pro. I have gone from 3.6 to 4.8 at my home track just to give you an idea. That is full boost, no turbo