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Old 06-01-2010, 09:16 AM   #14926
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this is going to sound like a stupid question, but apart from building a car dyno with some resistance.....

how can you check if your at 100% throttle(turbo) safely?
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Old 06-01-2010, 09:20 AM   #14927
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Originally Posted by jrxs-r View Post
Just wondering if anyone here has noticed the difference in brakes from ESC to ESC? I have an RS and an RS Pro, and the brakes on the RS are significantly better than the Pro. Same settings, same motor, same car (I have 2 cars set up the same). This has got me thinking as some of the guys running the Tekin ESCs at the local track have the ability to lock the brakes up, and some of us just kind of slows down to a halt (at slower speeds it brakes a lot better). There must be a huge variation in the manufacturing of the ESC, or the quality of the FETs.

@ Randy --> Should I send it in for a check-up or just wait till the new software gets released?
try a new capacitor in your RS PRO.

dodgy capacitors have been known to reduce braking performance!
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Old 06-01-2010, 09:42 AM   #14928
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
this is going to sound like a stupid question, but apart from building a car dyno with some resistance.....

how can you check if your at 100% throttle(turbo) safely?
Put the car on the ground and drive it.
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Old 06-01-2010, 09:57 AM   #14929
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Put the car on the ground and drive it.
with a unpainted body so you can see the flashing lights
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:02 AM   #14930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hacker View Post
try a new capacitor in your RS PRO.

dodgy capacitors have been known to reduce braking performance!
Okie... will try as soon as I get hold of some. Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The brakes on the RS Pro should be nearly identical to the ones on the RS assuming they're setup exactly the same. Granted the Pro has more fet's but it's not enough to feel the difference.

I would verify you don't have ABS or something else off from model to model. The suggestion of the rotor being different/weak is also something to look at.
I will try the capacitor change first to see if it is the problem. Haven't got any ABS....etc. setup on the cars at all. Are cases and caps available for purchasing? Thanks.
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:18 AM   #14931
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yes there on the website some were
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:49 AM   #14932
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Need some help with settings on a Tekin RS using v203 firmware and a choice of motors. i've been running a Tekin Redline 10.5 which is ballistic on my present settings but too much for the small indoor carpet track i run on.My current setup is
FDR about 8:1
NW - 8
BS - 100
TP - 3
Timing Boost - 30
Turbo Boost - 20
Sensored mode ticked
Advanced settings.
End RPM - 8000
Start RPM - select between 3000 - 3500
Turbo Delay - 0.2
Turbo Ramp - 3
I can't get hold of a Redline 13.5 for a few weeks so want to try a Novak ss 13.5 and a LRP X11 13.5. Both these motor have fixed timing so i'm not sure how far i can take the settings in v203 safely without cooking the motors.
I'm running an Xray T2 009 with the 38t diff pulleys, Orion 5400 40c lipo's, the track is medium to high grip carpet and is 24m x 12m the straight is 24m long so turbo not really needed with the 10.5.
Can someone please advise on some safe settings for the Novak and LRP please? lots of punch would be good as the infield is very technical.

Last edited by BILKO1; 06-01-2010 at 03:45 PM. Reason: It's a Novak ss not Velociti
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:02 AM   #14933
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Raise your end RPM to about 20,000 and increase the timing boost to about 45-50.
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:21 PM   #14934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BILKO1 View Post
Need some help with settings on a Tekin RS using v203 firmware and a choice of motors. i've been running a Tekin Redline 10.5 which is ballistic on my present settings but too much for the small indoor carpet track i run on.My current setup is
FDR about 8:1
NW - 8
BS - 100
TP - 3
Timing Boost - 30
Turbo Boost - 20
Sensored mode ticked
Advanced settings.
End RPM - 8000
Start RPM - select between 3000 - 3500
Turbo Delay - 0.2
Turbo Ramp - 3
I can't get hold of a Redline 13.5 for a few weeks so want to try a Novak velociti ss 13.5 and a LRP X11 13.5. Both these motor have fixed timing...
As a suggestion, i would really tone it down on the LRP 13.5. From my little experience with them, i have already found they do not like a lot of ESC timing advance. For a zeroed 13.5, i would definitely change the end rpm as mentioned, but lower your ramp to 1, change your timing to 5, and set your boost to 3. Adjust timing/boost and delay in small increments from there.

There is more performance to be found with the LRP motors in speedo tuning, than adding gear can ever do. Youre better off setting the RS to 0 timing and boost, and setting the LRP motor to 0 timing (if its adjustable), and find a gear ratio that is either 2 or almost 3 teeth (64 pitch) too slow for your needs. Even one tooth too much adds large amounts of heat, when compared to the performance gained. THEN adjust your speedo timing/boost. My boost floats around 2/3rds the timing value, but thats primarily dependent on the track layout.
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Old 06-01-2010, 03:34 PM   #14935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
As a suggestion, i would really tone it down on the LRP 13.5. From my little experience with them, i have already found they do not like a lot of ESC timing advance. For a zeroed 13.5, i would definitely change the end rpm as mentioned, but lower your ramp to 1, change your timing to 5, and set your boost to 3. Adjust timing/boost and delay in small increments from there.

There is more performance to be found with the LRP motors in speedo tuning, than adding gear can ever do. Youre better off setting the RS to 0 timing and boost, and setting the LRP motor to 0 timing (if its adjustable), and find a gear ratio that is either 2 or almost 3 teeth (64 pitch) too slow for your needs. Even one tooth too much adds large amounts of heat, when compared to the performance gained. THEN adjust your speedo timing/boost. My boost floats around 2/3rds the timing value, but thats primarily dependent on the track layout.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
Raise your end RPM to about 20,000 and increase the timing boost to about 45-50.
Afaik the timing on the Novak and LRP that i have is fixed ( no timing marks) this worries me as i can not find out what they are set at in the factory ( different forums = different results) I know if i loosen the bolts on the Novak there is a little adjustment but with no timing marks i'm blind. Hopefully i'll get a Redline 13.5t when/if my shop gets some in and i'll know where im at. I'm just worried about cooking motors as it eems so easy to do with these new software driven speedos.
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Old 06-01-2010, 03:36 PM   #14936
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start with 20-30 on the motors with non adjustable endbells
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Old 06-01-2010, 03:43 PM   #14937
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
start with 20-30 on the motors with non adjustable endbells
Thanks
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:37 PM   #14938
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I have used Tekin speed controls for years in many different types of cars, and have had great luck with them but I have never been a real fan of the way you attach the wires to the posts. Have any of you guys tried to remove the posts from the board and just attach the wires thru the holes. With the posts out I think you could attach them like you would with an LRP or other type ESC. Thanks
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:40 PM   #14939
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they are there to cool the esc,so dont remove them
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:46 PM   #14940
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That's one of the things I like about the Tekin. It's easy to remove wires when switching the speedo to a different chassis. As was already said, the gold posts are the heatsinks for the speedo. DO NOT remove them.

I wasn't a fan of stuffing wire down into the holes on my LRP.
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