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Old 05-11-2010, 07:56 AM   #14611
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yes current limiter works in sensored mode,timing advance doesn't but set it to 100 that way there you have 30* of timing if you loose your sensor wire

current limiter is punch control,in dual mode timing advance is used only the motor timing is not
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Old 05-11-2010, 08:03 AM   #14612
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Whilst I understand that boost and turbo is not available in "dual" mode, Im a bit surprised that the values "current control" and "timing advance" are not available in "sensored".
The settings "timing advance" and "current limit" are still applied and active in the esc. Rather than making the hotwire box too wide by lining up all the sliders they chose to have you switch between dual and sensored in order to see them.

What happens when I switch to "dual", change the setting for "current" or "timing" and switch back to "sensored".
Will the changes have an effect?
I want a current limit in "sensored".
Yes, current limit AND dual mode timing are stored and in effect. If you lose your sensor harness the dualmode timing you selected comes into play to finish the race. This is why you should always set your timing advance even if you don't plan to use it. For stock racing put it all the way up at 100.


And about the value ranges itself: I dont understand why "current control" and "timing advance" have such a limited range:
- Why is timing only positive? I would rather like to retard my (factory 30*) motor with the ESC than by touching the can.
Timing advance is not based off the sensors, but rather true zero. If you put any less timing the motor would spin backwards. 80 to 100 on the timing advance is close to the stock sensored timing in most motors.
- Why is current limit only up to 100? I guess the value represent Ampere. How dont have to look long to find a pack that can deliver 200A or more.
Current limit is an arbitrary scale. 100 equals no current is limited (100% power available) and zero means your grandma could drive the car.

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Old 05-11-2010, 08:27 AM   #14613
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first thing I would try is a vr adjust on the helios. also on the helios you will need to run the throttle reverse. the next thing I would try if those 2 don't work is to do a reset on your helios for that profile. then set the throttle to reverse and try to calibrate with the rs
i did all of the above. what i had to do was click- "update esc" -on the hotwire. the esc resetted itself and i was able to reprogram it. thanks for your help.
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Old 05-11-2010, 08:39 AM   #14614
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thanks for the quick replies, guys.
Im clear about the timing advance now.

But for the current limit: Beside of protecting the battery, I guess I might be able to use this value to reduce heat and punch?
What would be a good value to start with for a 13.5?
What is a typical peak amp rate that the RS can push through a 13.5 motor, and how would that value translate in the ESCs current limiter scale? I would like to start experimenting at about 80% of the maximum draw rate to check what effect that has on heat and punch.
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:02 AM   #14615
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Only a few weeks left until tuning ESC's goes the way of the dinosaur. I'm not sure if we should have a party or a funeral.
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:03 AM   #14616
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Only a few weeks left until tuning ESC's goes the way of the dinosaur. I'm not sure if we should have a party or a funeral.
Huh?

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Old 05-11-2010, 09:13 AM   #14617
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Huh?

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ROAR is moving to approved ESC's (and profiles) for stock classes. ETS this week is using handout Citrix ESC's and motors. Scotty has basically said all stock classes at IIC will be no timing in the ESC's. What's left? It's just a matter of time now before the TC Spec's come back out.
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:18 AM   #14618
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
ROAR is moving to approved ESC's (and profiles) for stock classes. ETS this week is using handout Citrix ESC's and motors. Scotty has basically said all stock classes at IIC will be no timing in the ESC's. What's left? It's just a matter of time now before the TC Spec's come back out.
Ah Gottcha. I'll agree with them all and say for 17.5 or Amature classes it should be done. Things are getting way to fast for most guys. 13.5 and up should be left open though.

Remember when BL came out it was one less thing to have to worry about. Not as it is now though! LOL

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Old 05-11-2010, 09:24 AM   #14619
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Ah Gottcha. I'll agree with them all and say for 17.5 or Amature classes it should be done. Things are getting way to fast for most guys. 13.5 and up should be left open though.

Remember when BL came out it was one less thing to have to worry about. Not as it is now though!
It's enough to make me want to go back and edit all but about 5 of the total posts I've made on this site.

Who knows what's going to happen with 13.5. It seems like ROAR is trying to kill it. I'm eager to see what Scotty does for IIC, but his post said "all" stock classes. I guess we'll know soon.
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:25 AM   #14620
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Roar is moving to approved esc's and profiles for sportsman classes. It's up to tracks and their respective races if they want to use the sportsman specs for their classes. 17.5 "stock" is still open timing (for now).
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:10 AM   #14621
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ROAR is trying to make a positive change for the "average" racer that is trying to get into National or other large events to compete. The Spec software rule wont' change anything for the Tekin user. With 208 simply select TP 1 and you're done, period.

I also DO NOT expect this to affect any of our team drivers as NONE of them should be running in the Sportsman class anyways!

13.5 is still going to be around. I do suspect to see something along the lines of weight vs. motor wind chosen. The UK is doing something like this with a simple voltage maximum, and wind maximum. Clearly we've proven that at times a slower motor will provide you with an overall faster run.
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:16 AM   #14622
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Once we get back to simply stock and mod then it will be fun to race again!
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:23 AM   #14623
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Once we get back to simply stock and mod then it will be fun to race again!
+1 Things were so much better way back when the classes were novice, stock, and modified, and the only thing different between novice and stock was skill level.
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:42 AM   #14624
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Hey guys

A question away from the usual poop about brakes and motors cooking

I want to use a mod motor on my RS , it is a 6 turns i have added another Cap to the speedo to help cool it and a fan blowing across the posts.

But my question is what do i do for settings ?? i have never run Mod but want to see if i can handle the power as i am fed up with the way stock class is going .....

Thanks i advance Phil
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:57 AM   #14625
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we were talking about this a few pages back start with dual mode timing advance around 70 and gear accordingly you can add more timing if you need more rip,in sensored mode timing boost 20-30 motor 0-10 turbo 0 to start 5k start 25k end start slow in sensored mode and add slowly,i would start with dual until you get a feel for a 6.5
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