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Old 05-05-2010, 02:22 PM   #14431
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My cutoff is set at 3.2. The person that setup my rs has done so for countless others and is a local pro. I didn't think it could blow up two lipos but they both happened on the same day. My temps never reach over 160. I am just at a loss. Are there any recommendations that you can give me. I can't go back to my lrp spx at this point. Not after feeling the power of the tekin. I have been trying to get into electric but it is just too expensive when stuff like this happens.
If your lipo cutoff is truly set to 3.2 in the numerical field above the slider (custom setting) then there's the problem. When Bill referred to a setting of "2" that is on the slider, which means 2-cell, which is 6.0V. A custom setting of 3.2 would be a "conservative" choice only for someone running 1-cell lipo.
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Old 05-05-2010, 03:08 PM   #14432
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This may be a first for someone to ask, but im running a novak 13.5 (the older silver ribbed canned) with the Rs. Racing in a parking lot maybe a 90ft straight. Im trying to figure out what settings to run. Using 203 version.
Also if someone can point in a direction of an explanation to what each setting does exactly in the software.
also trying to figure out what to set the start/end rpm at.
Im currently a 6.77 FDR with maybe a tick of timing on my motor.
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Old 05-05-2010, 04:18 PM   #14433
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This may be a first for someone to ask, but im running a novak 13.5 (the older silver ribbed canned) with the Rs. Racing in a parking lot maybe a 90ft straight. Im trying to figure out what settings to run. Using 203 version.
Also if someone can point in a direction of an explanation to what each setting does exactly in the software.
also trying to figure out what to set the start/end rpm at.
Im currently a 6.77 FDR with maybe a tick of timing on my motor.


timing boost is split up through the rpm range at every 1k
turbo is applied at full throttle after the delay is reached
ramp is the rate turbo in
ramp 1 is .5 sec 2* every tenth
ramp 2 is .25 sec 4* ll ll
ramp 3 is .03 sec 6* ll ll
my time may be off i haven't had to remember this in a while

timing boost 50
turbo 0 (add 5 if you need it with delay .3 and ramp 3
start 4k end 18k
fdr 7.5-8
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Old 05-05-2010, 04:51 PM   #14434
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[QUOTE=Spdjunky;7364685.... saying there aren't issues with Spektrum, when I knew they were being pulled off shelves and reprogrammed. There is no reason to BS people buying the products.[/QUOTE]

When do you think that was happening?

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Old 05-05-2010, 06:33 PM   #14435
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I have grown to dislike the RS setup sheet. Redid it as a .pdf, not fancy, follows what you see on the screen when using 203. Did it in landscape which allowed 3 complete settings on one page. If anyone wants to look at it and has a way to post it here drop me a PM and I will email.

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Old 05-05-2010, 06:47 PM   #14436
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
If your lipo cutoff is truly set to 3.2 in the numerical field above the slider (custom setting) then there's the problem. When Bill referred to a setting of "2" that is on the slider, which means 2-cell, which is 6.0V. A custom setting of 3.2 would be a "conservative" choice only for someone running 1-cell lipo.
It's set to 6.4 I meant 3.2 per cell. I guess I'm just going to have to keep trouble shooting because it seems like no one else has run into this same problem.
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:08 PM   #14437
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It's set to 6.4 I meant 3.2 per cell. I guess I'm just going to have to keep trouble shooting because it seems like no one else has run into this same problem.
Unfortunately, after running the RS/RS Pro for a couple of years, reading pretty much this whole thread, and having a couple dozen racers running them under my care, I have yet to see or hear of a problem like yours.

Don't take that as meaning you don't have a legitimate problem -- somebody's got to be first. Just that some other issue is more likely to be the culprit.

What exactly happened to the batteries, under what conditions? Did they both behave & fail in a similar manner? What's the whole story?
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:28 PM   #14438
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Unfortunately, after running the RS/RS Pro for a couple of years, reading pretty much this whole thread, and having a couple dozen racers running them under my care, I have yet to see or hear of a problem like yours.

Don't take that as meaning you don't have a legitimate problem -- somebody's got to be first. Just that some other issue is more likely to be the culprit.

What exactly happened to the batteries, under what conditions? Did they both behave & fail in a similar manner? What's the whole story?
Pretty much I had ran the batteries before on a spx 13.5 combo before several times with no problem. I installed a tekin rs 17.5 system and had one day of practice on it before the day this happened. I charged and stored my lipos as I always do. A week went by I checked my lipos in the morning on Sunday in preparation for some club racing. I run the first qualifier and during warm up it was fine. In the middle of the race I noticed the car was really show and could not feel the boost kicking in. I didn't think anything of it. I pulled the car off and took off the shell on my car to realize that my thunderpower lipo had puffed up. It literally tore the sticker on the seem from puffing so much. I checked my temps when I pulled the car off and it was around 160. Went to run a second heat and in the warm up felt the same lack of power pulled it off to see my second lipo was also puffed up. I always monitor my lipos when charging and both were fine before I put them in my tc to run the qualifiers. I have thoroughly checked my charger and it charges just fine. Does not overcharge at all. Which is why I am at a loss when trying to figure out whats going on. The esc is the only other explanation.
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:34 PM   #14439
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How old are your lipos? The turbo draws a lot of amperage and older lipos are known to puff if it exceeds draw capability. Happened to a pair of 1 year old lipos in my truck when I put in a brushless system awhile back...
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:45 PM   #14440
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Limited use of a Novak Data Logger has shown some high amp spikes using a 13.5 with single cell lipo in WGT, but nothing that would load a good battery causing failure.

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Old 05-05-2010, 07:49 PM   #14441
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depends on how agressive your setup is. we were running 28amp avg out of our packs in 1s 17.5 1/12th. I would bet in wgt with a pretty agressive rs setup and 13.5, you would be seeing 35amp avg. that could be as high as 60amp peak or more. remember that you data logger is only good to .1sec resolution
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:49 PM   #14442
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When do you think that was happening?

Thanks
Skiddins
It started with the Grey case RX's. Then AGAIN when the DSM2 stuff came out.
Originally there was a glitch in the software when cars would build up too much static, hitting a bump would release a static charge across the board and cause it to shut off.
Similar things happened again when the DSM2 was released. There are/were some other issues. Most have been fixed by upgrading the software and flashing the RX. I've had numerous RX 'flashed' and all the issues were taken care of after that.
If they are older ESC's, they probably just need flashed to fix the problems.

There is no way you and I can tell which version of software we have in the Rx's.

You have to know the right people to talk to, to get an honest answer, some honestly don't know.
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:59 PM   #14443
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I will neve forget a race I was attending where Matt Francis was racing. I watched him literally help this young man out that was having handling issues with a 2wd buggy. He clearly didn't have the car build properly,etc. Matt literally set his own car aside and rebuild this young mans car, using HIS parts! Matt missed a qualifier and nearly a heat race while doing this. Matt proudly set the young mans car down for the youngsters last qualifier. The kid was beaming, not only did Matt freak'n Francis rebuild his car but he managed to take the last A spot in his class!
I had a similar experience 6 years ago at the Losi Championships in Tampa, FL with Ryan Maifield. It was the first race I took time to travel to and showed up with my T4 with a duratrax 12t esc and a 12 turn checkpoint motor. The 12t rating was not quite a "continuous" rating and would make it 3 minutes every qualifier before the thing overheated and started glitching. Maifield took my car and installed a qc2. He's been my hero ever since and even kinda recognized me at the roar nats a year or two later when I came to him with my sphere that was cutting out. He again took the time in the middle of qualifying and we ripped the whole car apart before realizing the positive receiver wire from the esc had frayed and was making intermittent contact. I've tried to model myself after such efforts on his part.
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:13 PM   #14444
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How old are your lipos? The turbo draws a lot of amperage and older lipos are known to puff if it exceeds draw capability. Happened to a pair of 1 year old lipos in my truck when I put in a brushless system awhile back...
One of them is a few weeks old and the other about 7 months old. Both have seen low use because I was focusing on nitro the last couple of months.
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:26 PM   #14445
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Referencing my posts below, these are reasons that manufactures should use a system to label their parts.
If the rx's were coded, you could easily tell if yours had been updated or not.

The most common method of labeling as most of us know is a number system on a sticker.
Another common method in manufacturing, is to use invisible ink. Often invisible ink is used to print the Julian date, assembly line, etc on that part. This way it is easier to diagnose a problem from a pissed off employee working overtime (lol), bad supplier, wrong software etc.
A common black light will pick up all the information Try taking a black light to the side seam on most aerosol cans.
This is also used on circuit boards to see if they were tampered with

Having a system like this on the Motors, esc, rx's etc, would allow everyone to be more informed as to what changes were made and when. I just found out today, my less than 2 month old Tekin 4030 1700 kv motor had an old rotor in it that 'exploded'. There is now a newer style. Thanks to Randy and Corey I am now having a replacement sent to me.
If these changes and updates were listed on a site, the end user could help diagnose their own problem. (Maybe thats good, maybe bad lol)
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Last edited by Spdjunky; 05-05-2010 at 08:50 PM.
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