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Old 04-21-2010, 03:10 AM   #14146
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Originally Posted by old_skoolie View Post
Hi Tekin experts
I'm looking at getting a new rotor for my 17.5 redline (stock off road is big in Austraalia)
it'll be for my db01r and was wondering what the difference between the TT2272 12.5mm (stock legal) and the TT2276 12.5mm hi-torque rotors is.
which would be best for 17.5T, 4WD in Oz?
is the TT2276 going to be submitted for ROAR approval?
thanks in advance
Steve
Steve, dont do it, the hi torque rotor is illegal for stock spec racing, i dont imagine that would change as the idea of the stock spec is that the rotor remains as the standard rotor that the motor was approved with and the hi torque rotor has a different internal diameter which is different to the legal limit, the roar specs have an external diameter at 12.5 and an internal diameter that the rotor must conform to, its not a matter of tekin just asking for it, it does not meet the specs. i promise you man, my motor is just straight out of the box, this is not where u need to find your speed
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:55 AM   #14147
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
The hi-torque rotor has a smaller inner diameter on the magnet, so it has more magnetic material than the roar legal rotor. Roar specifies a miminum inner diameter for the magnet on the rotor, so the Hi-torque rotors will never be legal in the stock classes if you strictly follow roar and ifmar rules.
oh sorry i basically repeated what this dude already said
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Old 04-21-2010, 04:46 AM   #14148
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Originally Posted by NOFX View Post
Steve, dont do it, the hi torque rotor is illegal for stock spec racing, i dont imagine that would change as the idea of the stock spec is that the rotor remains as the standard rotor that the motor was approved with and the hi torque rotor has a different internal diameter which is different to the legal limit, the roar specs have an external diameter at 12.5 and an internal diameter that the rotor must conform to, its not a matter of tekin just asking for it, it does not meet the specs. i promise you man, my motor is just straight out of the box, this is not where u need to find your speed
Hi Mikey, I was wondering where you were
I don't need anymore speed, my problem is after 2 laps or so I lose punch,
At this moment I'm not syre whether it's a cooked rotor or the batteries, But it seems to happen with all my packs, but they are the cheap ones, while I was looking at rotors I thought I'd investigate torqyue ones
$45 or so for the stock roltor or double that for a basllistic, what do people reckon to the ballistic 17.5
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Old 04-21-2010, 05:21 AM   #14149
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hi, anyone of you know what hobby shop sells the tekin hotwire in the san jose california area? address and name of shop will help.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:07 AM   #14150
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Originally Posted by blanks596 View Post
out of curiosity, how much run time are the 1/8 scale buggies getting with all that power?
I am running a 4S 5600 pack and can easily get 10 - 15 min out of it. There is a lot of nitro where I race and they all want longer mains. I figured it out the other day if I run 2 3S packs in parallel I should be able to finish a 30 min main with out "refueling". Assuming heat doesn't become a problem.
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Old 04-21-2010, 09:34 AM   #14151
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I have an RS that was running v180. I've updated to the most recent version, and now that changes that I make in Hotwire are not being saved by the ESC. Hotwire confirms that the changes are made, and when reconnected all of the changes that I've made show in hotwire. For some reason my lipo cut-off and motor type settings are not being saved.

Should I have to set these manually on the ESC in addition to using the Hotwire interface?

e.g. If I want to use the custom voltage cutoff do I first have to set the ESC to LED 4 (Custom) under Voltage Cutoff, or can I just pick my voltage in Hotwire and hit update?

Thanks,

Lamar
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:29 AM   #14152
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[QUOTE=Micro-E;7292022]... within 20 seconds of testing on the bench, steering stopped moving and no motor. I did notice that the lights on the RS would advance and flash just like I was running it (all would flash at full throttle, right?) yet nothing to the wheels. My receiver ... light was alternating between red and green. After 15 seconds of that behavior... all the sudden things would return to normal - had streeing and motor control, green light solid on receiver. I kept testing and the symptoms would go away, then come back at random intervals; the cycle can always be repeated within 30sec to a min. I did notice that when the car stopped responding to the radio, and turning just the steering in that condition, the RS would heat up quickly - room temp to 130ish in 1 min of just turning the wheel back and forth. The ESC was room temp when I started.


QUOTE]

Problem solved. Talked to Tekin support and they said my servo was causing this issue. Swapped it out and the problem is gone!! Sweet!

I never would have thought a servo could cause that.
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:36 AM   #14153
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what srvo were you using
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:40 AM   #14154
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[QUOTE=Micro-E;7301045]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Micro-E View Post
... within 20 seconds of testing on the bench, steering stopped moving and no motor. I did notice that the lights on the RS would advance and flash just like I was running it (all would flash at full throttle, right?) yet nothing to the wheels. My receiver ... light was alternating between red and green. After 15 seconds of that behavior... all the sudden things would return to normal - had streeing and motor control, green light solid on receiver. I kept testing and the symptoms would go away, then come back at random intervals; the cycle can always be repeated within 30sec to a min. I did notice that when the car stopped responding to the radio, and turning just the steering in that condition, the RS would heat up quickly - room temp to 130ish in 1 min of just turning the wheel back and forth. The ESC was room temp when I started.


QUOTE]

Problem solved. Talked to Tekin support and they said my servo was causing this issue. Swapped it out and the problem is gone!! Sweet!

I never would have thought a servo could cause that.
Hmm... Interesting. I'm been having some similar issues and thought it was possibly a damaged lead from the ESC or an Rx being dumb. I guess a servo going bad, drawing a lot of current could cause similar stupidness.

Makes even more sense to me since my issues only occur outside [warm asphalt]. On the carpet there's no issues.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:10 AM   #14155
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Originally Posted by Senna Racing View Post
what srvo were you using
Hitec 625MG. (My car is equally as old)
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Old 04-21-2010, 04:06 PM   #14156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_skoolie View Post
Hi Mikey, I was wondering where you were
I don't need anymore speed, my problem is after 2 laps or so I lose punch,
At this moment I'm not syre whether it's a cooked rotor or the batteries, But it seems to happen with all my packs, but they are the cheap ones, while I was looking at rotors I thought I'd investigate torqyue ones
$45 or so for the stock roltor or double that for a basllistic, what do people reckon to the ballistic 17.5
how hot is it getting when you loose the punch
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:37 AM   #14157
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
how hot is it getting when you loose the punch
the temp after 6 mins is 110 degrees farenhieght, however my thinking is with the fan blowing on it it is cooling the outside but the middle (rotor etc) may be hotter, settings below
FDR 6.6
V203
max boost
end rpm 19000
start rpm 8000
ramp 1
Thanks
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:53 AM   #14158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_skoolie View Post
the temp after 6 mins is 110 degrees farenhieght, however my thinking is with the fan blowing on it it is cooling the outside but the middle (rotor etc) may be hotter, settings below
FDR 6.6
V203
max boost
end rpm 19000
start rpm 8000
ramp 1
Thanks

Have you done the callibration at 90% and moved it up to 110%?

You asy ramp 1 but what is your turbo setting?
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Old 04-22-2010, 01:03 AM   #14159
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Have you done the callibration at 90% and moved it up to 110%?

You asy ramp 1 but what is your turbo setting?
No turbo Greg
not sure what you mean with the callibration, that wouldn't effect the loss of punch after a few laps????
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Old 04-22-2010, 01:13 AM   #14160
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Originally Posted by old_skoolie View Post
No turbo Greg
not sure what you mean with the callibration, that wouldn't effect the loss of punch after a few laps????
Turn your radio down to 90% thriottle. Callibrate the ESC. Then turn the throttle up to 110%. (if your radio cant do 110%, use 80% then 100%)

There can be a full throttle "wander" and this stops you losing full throttle as for most racers the full throttle is when the trigger is jammed against the case. This moves full throttle away from the case

I would also think that the rpm range you set is very high . I would have thought starting around 5000 and going to say 13000 might have worked better. Racers can correct me if I am wrong
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