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Old 04-13-2010, 05:09 PM   #13981
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no issues, just maybe that it gets a little hot after about 6 minutes. had it 95C last weekend when i put the motor timing on 20, boost on 45 and turbo on 20, so thats 85 degrees of timing in total that got realy hot but did gave me nice punch in the infield for 6 minutes. last minute it was a but sluggish as it got to hot.. i think i nearly reached the temp cutoff somehow because if i would tripple pull the trigger to full throttle at low speeds the 3nd time the motor would just bog down a bit. easing down on throttle resolved this during the race.
Im using a Epic nemesis 13.5 so i dont know about the GM's or SP's or tekin's. Though im thinking of trying with a 12.3mm rotor (currently using a 12.45mm) what would that do for my performance?

so yeah, i do think im nearing a good setup. i just need to find the point where the timing is too much, which creates my high temperatures of 85C. if i can lower the timing on that particular spot without compromising speed and punch i think im done setting up.

hehe, currently working on a lipo warmer. using 2 much more warming tray elements and a tire warmer controller. nice display with temperature and voltage with a beeper when exeeding preset values for temperature. im going to test that tomorrow.

GL!
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:30 PM   #13982
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Can anyone tell me what the timing marks on a Orion 10.5 indicate...

it has marks going in both directions from a large central mark... do I assume that mark is 0deg?
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:35 PM   #13983
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OK I'm having kittens here.

Just took my car out for a lunch time blast. First real run.
Set my timer for 5 mins and all was well.

Pulled the car up to see how hot it was, felt hot but only had 2 lights on. Put it on the ground, it cogged, and the motor started squealing.

I don't think if its hit the battery cut off, as when I got back to the office, I disabled it and its still doing the same thing.

Also I can turn the motor freely by hand so I dont think anything is jammed.

Problem is I have nothing here to test it with, don't have another battery to try, but I'm hoping something hasn't failed.

Has anyone else had a similar problem and what was the outcome?
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Old 04-14-2010, 02:50 AM   #13984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lupin_au View Post
OK I'm having kittens here.

Just took my car out for a lunch time blast. First real run.
Set my timer for 5 mins and all was well.

Pulled the car up to see how hot it was, felt hot but only had 2 lights on. Put it on the ground, it cogged, and the motor started squealing.

I don't think if its hit the battery cut off, as when I got back to the office, I disabled it and its still doing the same thing.

Also I can turn the motor freely by hand so I dont think anything is jammed.

Problem is I have nothing here to test it with, don't have another battery to try, but I'm hoping something hasn't failed.


Has anyone else had a similar problem and what was the outcome?
I had this happen to me on the weekend and i assumed that the motor had died or a bearing problem. Check motor temp was only 50c. When i got home I pulled motor apart and could not find any problems. Cleaned and put it back together and back in car, while doing this i found bug guts in sensor wire plug on motor end. The guts was across about 5 of the terminals and must have been upsetting the system. Cleaned plug with compressed air and then ran the car up and down the street about 20 times all ok.
Anyway check your sensor wire. Let me know if that is your problem too.

Regards Todd
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:23 AM   #13985
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Turn the motor by hand with the tekin on. If you look carefully the last three led lights come on one after the other for each phase of the motor.

Im guessing a phase has died on the motor.

In case you didnt realise two lights for temperature one the tekin refers to how hot the esc is, not the motor. Even though the motor comes off cold it may be cold because a phase is gone.
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:38 AM   #13986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Turn the motor by hand with the tekin on. If you look carefully the last three led lights come on one after the other for each phase of the motor.

Im guessing a phase has died on the motor.

In case you didnt realise two lights for temperature one the tekin refers to how hot the esc is, not the motor. Even though the motor comes off cold it may be cold because a phase is gone.
Do I need to have it in pit mode or anything, because I get no lights at all when turning it by hand, the two that light for temp and mode.
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:45 AM   #13987
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Nope, just thinking you may need to have your transmitter on so it initialises.

But you have to look really carefully at the leds. There is like a small dot in the middle of the last three LEDs which is the part which lights up (one after the other).

Maybe it is a problem with your sensor cable (as XRAYGIZMO said), no sensor cable will result in cogging as the esc has to work entirely in sensorless mode. But if that were to happen on the track your car would be significantly slower as none of the boost or turbo would be kicking in and your gearing would be wrong.
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:16 AM   #13988
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Well I've found the problem.

The rotor is in about 50 bits inside the motor. Don't know how much damage it has done but I'd say its a throw away job.
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:28 AM   #13989
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[QUOTE=BigDogRacing;7267645]I spent hours of testing to come up with what is a great setup for the x12 on most tracks and layouts and you can't so much as throw a quick "thanks" out there.
QUOTE]

Hey! Hey! Thanks LUTZ!!! Now can you work on the setup of the car or a duo 2?!
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:38 PM   #13990
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I'm trying to prepare my esc for a VTA race. They are only allowing V. 200 or earlier. I have been running 203 with this esc. So I chose v200 and hit apply. It went through its whole multi step process and then I restarted HW. The current version shows 200 in the box, but all of the adjustments look like v203 still (threres still a turbo delay, and the advanced window still opens to reveal ERPM and SRPM etc). IIRC V200 had static timing advance and no turbo. The timing went up to something like 30, right? What do I need to do to get the software to show the correct options/settings for the version that is now installed on the esc? I am wanting to run a ballistic 21.5 with v200.
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:11 AM   #13991
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Hi Guys,

does anyone have a list of the variables and an explaniation of what they do anyware for the V203 software?

These are the vaiables.... but what do they do (and how do they effect things)?
Drag Brake
Reverse Strength
Brake Strength
Neutral Width
Motor Type
Throttle Profile
Voltage Cutoff
Push Control
Timing Boost
Turbo Boost
Reverse
1s LiPo
Turbo Delay
Sensored
Dual
ESC Model
Current version
End RPM
Start RPM
Turbo Ramp
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:21 AM   #13992
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Andrew,

200 also had timing advance and turbo boost but the timing was only adjustable up to 30, what is the maximum you can set your timing to now ?

I haven't had to go back from 203 so I'm not sure if you actually need to uninstall the hotwire 4 software and re-install hotwire 3.3 to get back to the original setup of 200 from Vegas.

Maybe Randy can let us know...
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:26 AM   #13993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
Hi Guys,

does anyone have a list of the variables and an explaniation of what they do anyware for the V203 software?
Download this document for that info it's all covered in there.

http://rcfaq.weebly.com/tekin-rs--hotwire.html
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:50 AM   #13994
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I have a problem with one of my Tekin's, when I plug the USB cord into the Hotwire unit, which is connected to the speedy first the led's 1,3 & 5 are flashing on the speedy and the green light on the hotwire is solid.

When I plug the hotwire to my other speedy it works fine.

Do I have a problem with the speedy ?.

Regards
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:12 AM   #13995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSM Storm View Post
I have a problem with one of my Tekin's, when I plug the USB cord into the Hotwire unit, which is connected to the speedy first the led's 1,3 & 5 are flashing on the speedy and the green light on the hotwire is solid.

When I plug the hotwire to my other speedy it works fine.

Do I have a problem with the speedy ?.

Regards
Gary
HEY BUD

Had this problem yesterday try and unpluging it and plug it back in again!

with mine the red wire was off in the inside of the speedo,but fixed it and it was 100 again. hope u get it fixed
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