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Old 04-06-2010, 11:34 PM   #13831
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post

Dutch is like a sort of mishmash of german and english with more zeds, as far as I figure.

Mijn Nederlands is zo goed als mijn web vertaler.
i thought the same whan i moved here , ben here 2 years and i still cant speak it

Dutch is a hard language to learn and it has some german and english looking words but the pronunciation is totally differant

P.S. google translate is poop for translating but good try
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:36 PM   #13832
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for my dutch friends: Heb je ook n linkje voor mij?
here you go

http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/cmps_index.php
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:48 PM   #13833
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I tried this on Sunday;

Question for Randy etc at Tekin.

With regard to the weak brakes problem that a lot of people have experienced, including me;

It has been suggested by another person who has suffered to try setting the motor to forward & reverse, the reducing the brake/reverse endpoint of the transmitter down to a level that enables the speed control to try and engage reverse but so weakly that it actualls appears as strong brakes.

I.e, when my reverse side is set to 35%, if I hold the car off the ground and pull back on the stick I get the high pitch 'frequency' type of sound but no reverse movement.

My main question is, If I race with it like this using weak reverse as my brakes, will this cause any damage or overheating etc.


It did use a bit of extra power but the motor didn't get too hot, neither did the ESC but it certainly made the car stop better.

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Skiddins - What radio are you using?

Locally i am seeing a lot of issues with braking and DX3R's on Tekins.
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Old 04-07-2010, 05:12 AM   #13834
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i'm having no probs with brakes on DX3R's, 10.5t running brakes around 60-70% for most tracks.

only prob i have had is turbo not working all the time if the speedie is calibrated at 100%, set the endpoint to 110% fixed it.
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Old 04-07-2010, 05:12 AM   #13835
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post

Locally i am seeing a lot of issues with braking and DX3R's on Tekins.
i have the dx3r and only use 50-60* brakes
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Old 04-07-2010, 06:53 AM   #13836
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I'm using a Futaba 3VC
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:04 AM   #13837
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Has anyone had any issues with the bec 3amp rating that gives power to rx & servo for steering?


I got a new steering servo

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SPMSH6040


when i steer left to right (a bit fast) it makes my spektrum bind light go out & loose bind for a second or 2,every time. With different brand & model servo it does not do it

I have unpluged the rs pro and just give my sr3000 rx power with a battery pack and problem is solved.

I have also tried running a novak glitch buster cap on rx and it helps but still cuts out. just not as badly.

i have no fans or tranponders pluged at all, & i know this new servo is going to be power hungry but i didnt think it would need more than 3 amp bec?????
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:11 AM   #13838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
Has anyone had any issues with the bec 3amp rating that gives power to rx & servo for steering?


I got a new steering servo

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SPMSH6040


when i steer left to right (a bit fast) it makes my spektrum bind light go out & loose bind for a second or 2,every time. With different brand & model servo it does not do it

I have unpluged the rs pro and just give my sr3000 rx power with a battery pack and problem is solved.

I have also tried running a novak glitch buster cap on rx and it helps but still cuts out. just not as badly.

i have no fans or tranponders pluged at all, & i know this new servo is going to be power hungry but i didnt think it would need more than 3 amp bec?????
What model spektrum receiver are you using?
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:13 AM   #13839
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
Has anyone had any issues with the bec 3amp rating that gives power to rx & servo for steering?


I got a new steering servo

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SPMSH6040


when i steer left to right (a bit fast) it makes my spektrum bind light go out & loose bind for a second or 2,every time. With different brand & model servo it does not do it

I have unpluged the rs pro and just give my sr3000 rx power with a battery pack and problem is solved.

I have also tried running a novak glitch buster cap on rx and it helps but still cuts out. just not as badly.

i have no fans or tranponders pluged at all, & i know this new servo is going to be power hungry but i didnt think it would need more than 3 amp bec?????
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krio View Post
What model spektrum receiver are you using?
sr3000

Kinda odd it is only happening to the left.

Are you running a 1s pack?
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:19 AM   #13840
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Missed that one. lol

Do you have any newer receivers to try? The old sr3000 was very sensitive to low voltages and all the newer receivers are good down to 3.8 volts or so.
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:52 AM   #13841
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Hey guys had a run with the V203 software tonite.

Ran the following:
Xray T3
Tekin RS
Tekin 17.5 with zero timing
FDR: 6.8
Boost: 50
Turbo: 10
End RPM: 7000
Start RPM: 2474
Ramp: 3.0
Delay: 0.4
Drag Brake: 10
Track: roughly 20meters x 60meters, medium traction

The car felt fast but not as fast as others running Black Diamond and tekins. Can someone please give me advice with regards to my setup? The car seems a bit slow coming out of corners and it seems to take a bit of time to reach top speed, it will reach top speed just before I enter a corner so basically by the time it reaches top speed I have to throttle off to go round the corner. It's flowing track so I don't use my brakes, instead I depend on my drag brake to slow me down. Or if I take the drag brake off I usually just roll through the corners. Any help would be appreciated guys.

Also when I first ran the car my initial setup was 5.63 FDR and 12 degree timing on the motor, but it temped at 105C, thought I blew the motor but when it cooled down everything was fine again, hope I didn't do any damage. So then I ran the above setup and final temp was around 75-80C.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:56 AM   #13842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bee200sx View Post
Hey guys had a run with the V203 software tonite.

Ran the following:
Xray T3
Tekin RS
Tekin 17.5 with zero timing
FDR: 6.8
Boost: 50
Turbo: 10
End RPM: 7000
Start RPM: 2474
Ramp: 3.0
Delay: 0.4
Drag Brake: 10
Track: roughly 20meters x 60meters, medium traction

The car felt fast but not as fast as others running Black Diamond and tekins. Can someone please give me advice with regards to my setup? The car seems a bit slow coming out of corners and it seems to take a bit of time to reach top speed, it will reach top speed just before I enter a corner so basically by the time it reaches top speed I have to throttle off to go round the corner. It's flowing track so I don't use my brakes, instead I depend on my drag brake to slow me down. Or if I take the drag brake off I usually just roll through the corners. Any help would be appreciated guys.

Also when I first ran the car my initial setup was 5.63 FDR and 12 degree timing on the motor, but it temped at 105C, thought I blew the motor but when it cooled down everything was fine again, hope I didn't do any damage. So then I ran the above setup and final temp was around 75-80C.

Thanks in advance.
Try reducing your delay to 0.2 and change your FDR to 7.5 +. If it feels like it has a lot of drag brake with the low gearing add a bit of push control This is with a bit of motor timing.

This should hopefully help.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:02 AM   #13843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bee200sx View Post
Hey guys had a run with the V203 software tonite.

Ran the following:
Xray T3
Tekin RS
Tekin 17.5 with zero timing
FDR: 6.8
Boost: 50
Turbo: 10
End RPM: 7000
Start RPM: 2474
Ramp: 3.0
Delay: 0.4
Drag Brake: 10
Track: roughly 20meters x 60meters, medium traction

The car felt fast but not as fast as others running Black Diamond and tekins. Can someone please give me advice with regards to my setup? The car seems a bit slow coming out of corners and it seems to take a bit of time to reach top speed, it will reach top speed just before I enter a corner so basically by the time it reaches top speed I have to throttle off to go round the corner. It's flowing track so I don't use my brakes, instead I depend on my drag brake to slow me down. Or if I take the drag brake off I usually just roll through the corners. Any help would be appreciated guys.

Also when I first ran the car my initial setup was 5.63 FDR and 12 degree timing on the motor, but it temped at 105C, thought I blew the motor but when it cooled down everything was fine again, hope I didn't do any damage. So then I ran the above setup and final temp was around 75-80C.

Thanks in advance.
most likely once your motor has overheated,it will run soft from now on.

I run mostly 6 fdr with minimal motor timing
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:10 AM   #13844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Try reducing your delay to 0.2 and change your FDR to 7.5 +. If it feels like it has a lot of drag brake with the low gearing add a bit of push control This is with a bit of motor timing.

This should hopefully help.
believe it or not with my setup, which is nearly the same as above, if I go from 6.0 fdr to 6.6 or higher, my motor gets hotter. Its strange cos normally when your undergeared(high fdr), usually the speedy gets hot and motor gets cooler. Not with the current generation of speedies and software however.

I would drop back on 3-4 on timing & turbo and spread out your rpm range from 4k-15k

Last edited by hacker; 04-07-2010 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:14 AM   #13845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
Has anyone had any issues with the bec 3amp rating that gives power to rx & servo for steering?


I got a new steering servo

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SPMSH6040


when i steer left to right (a bit fast) it makes my spektrum bind light go out & loose bind for a second or 2,every time. With different brand & model servo it does not do it

I have unpluged the rs pro and just give my sr3000 rx power with a battery pack and problem is solved.

I have also tried running a novak glitch buster cap on rx and it helps but still cuts out. just not as badly.

i have no fans or tranponders pluged at all, & i know this new servo is going to be power hungry but i didnt think it would need more than 3 amp bec?????
not realy relevant for this topic, but try this servo: http://www.helidirect.com/inolab-hgd...500-p-8073.hdx

at 6v its powerfull enough to hold the servo-saver. little slow (0.12s @60deg) for what im used to (0.08s @60deg) but im getting used to it now. weighs about the half of the lightest low-profile servo! Haven't had problems with the gears whatsoever, done about 10 days of racing now and still like new. helps good for the balance with the light lipo's.
my 2ct
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