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Old 11-09-2008, 07:18 PM   #1366
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Hi,

I just want to check on the problem that I'm having with my RS ESC. The ESC has been working well for the past few months.

Unfortunately for me, in the last 2 weeks, my ESC went "crazy" and it went full throttle all in a sudden. This has caused many big crashes and I have retired the car equipped with the ESC.

What actually went wrong? is it the ESC or the power cap?
Normally when I've had a car go full throttle in the past, it's been a receiver (spektrum) problem or the failsafe was set wide open. Normally if any brushless system fails it's just going to stop and let the smoke out. If the fets let loose in brushed mode it can go wide open though.
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:30 PM   #1367
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The moment I was faced with the problem, I immediately rebind the spektrum receiver to the transmitter module. I didnt include any braking to the failsafe position and instead I just left it at neutral position. Still, the problem was not cured.

My spektrum receiver is the first generation receiver and I will swap it with the newer one.
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:15 PM   #1368
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hey guys. need some help. im having problems with my rs in 17.5 1/12th. for some reason at the start of the race when i squeeze full throttle, i am getting a 2 sec delay before the car moves. it kinda studders and then takes off. i even had donny lia take a look and we cant figure it out. im in hybrid mode and we have programmed the radio numerous times. another racer is having the same issue. we both do not experience this in touring car. any ideas. both radios are futaba 3pk with fast system 2.4ghz. thanx
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:22 PM   #1369
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I've been running several RS ESC's std and pro's in my oval and on road cars. I really have been extreemly happy and glad to be using "New" Tekin stuff again.

I have run into the same issue with two different ESC's in the last two days racing, Saturday night oval racing and Sunday On Road. Anyone had an issue with the motor wires coming un soldered on the ESC posts towards the end of the run?

One of my fellow racers said it was due to my bad soldering job, but I've been doing this for 20 plus years and I could see on bad joint but not 4.

I'm thinking about putting a brass sleve on the post with a hole on top to hold the wire. Any other thought's?
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:43 PM   #1370
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xtreme

Check your sensor wire, i have the feeling that the plug is not fully connected resulting the ESC to switch to sensorless mode.
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:52 PM   #1371
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Originally Posted by xtrememadness View Post
hey guys. need some help. im having problems with my rs in 17.5 1/12th. for some reason at the start of the race when i squeeze full throttle, i am getting a 2 sec delay before the car moves. it kinda studders and then takes off. i even had donny lia take a look and we cant figure it out. im in hybrid mode and we have programmed the radio numerous times. another racer is having the same issue. we both do not experience this in touring car. any ideas. both radios are futaba 3pk with fast system 2.4ghz. thanx
You could try checking the sensor wire is working properly (**SHRUG**), this is something typical of what the R1 used to do. Try the trick where you turn the motor with your fingers and look for the led lights on the esc turning on one after the other for each of the three phases of the motor. Note that the lights are very faint, but you will see the last three leds tick over.
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Old 11-09-2008, 10:07 PM   #1372
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I've been running several RS ESC's std and pro's in my oval and on road cars. I really have been extreemly happy and glad to be using "New" Tekin stuff again.

I have run into the same issue with two different ESC's in the last two days racing, Saturday night oval racing and Sunday On Road. Anyone had an issue with the motor wires coming un soldered on the ESC posts towards the end of the run?

One of my fellow racers said it was due to my bad soldering job, but I've been doing this for 20 plus years and I could see on bad joint but not 4.

I'm thinking about putting a brass sleve on the post with a hole on top to hold the wire. Any other thought's?
Yes sliding a brass sleve over the post could work, just use a 1/8" bit to 'U' out the top to solder into. For my RS, I just Whip the wires with 26ga wire and press flat with smooth jawed pliers untill the tabs slide into the slot. The process puts a radiator fin onto of the Heatsink terminal post


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Old 11-09-2008, 10:14 PM   #1373
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Thanks for your solution as well!!

I may give that a try.


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Yes sliding a brass sleve over the post could work, just use a 1/8" bit to 'U' out the top to solder into. For my RS, I just Whip the wires with 26ga wire and press flat with smooth jawed pliers untill the tabs slide into the slot. The process puts a radiator fin onto of the Heatsink terminal post


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Old 11-10-2008, 10:09 AM   #1374
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Default 1/12th settings sorted now

I run a 1/12th on carpet ,10.5 bl after various trial and error settings the RS is now singing my tune .Never gone so smooth or fast for a while.Randy has been very helpfull with tips but this is the final settings.

Drag 50
Brake 50
Throttle 4 (3) if you want it very linear accelaration
Neutral 4
Current limit 85
Timing 85 irrelevant if sensored mode used.


Sensored only

Used this setting with a Speed Passion 10.5 on 56 rollout.Stunner
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Old 11-10-2008, 10:40 AM   #1375
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
Thanks for your solution as well!!

I may give that a try.

Just strip off the portion of wire for the tab. Fray the strands apart and whipp with 26ga wire. No need for a return loop...just coil the wire. Not too tight, not too loose. Every wrap butted really close.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_whipping
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:35 AM   #1376
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when comparing a 27turn and a 17.5 what would the drag brake setting have to be using a 17.5 to be the same as a 27t natural slowdown.
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:41 AM   #1377
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Guys with the Futaba radios. Try resetting your radio. Also make sure that you set your epas to equal amounts on throttle and brake.

Spectrum users running 1/12 with 4 cell or any other 4 cell car for that matter. Make sure to run the sepctrum cap on the reciever. The spectrum will drop out under accelearation long before the RS turns off. If we don't get a signal we kinda wait briefly on the receiver. This is where you can "feel" a delay or you can get a throttle shot.

I urge anyone using the Futaba radio to email me so we can work out your problems. [email protected] I can share this info with our engineers so we can get them documented.

Wires falling off an esc can be from excessive heat and or a bad connection to begin with. I strongly recomend makin sure that the wires have enough length to not be taught as simple fatigue of a joint can cause them to fall off as well. Posting some pictures of your wire/esc set up may let another set of eyes seem something yours do not.

Any cogging with the RS: Make sure that you use the sensor checker function on the esc. Roll the motor over with your finger and watch for the dimly lit led's. They will cycle between the three of them as the sensors are "seen." If you have an erratic sensor, or one missing completely that is your issue. Sensors in the motors can and do go bad but I've found more bad harness's than motors. Harness's are easy to swap out and are the first thing to check. Let's face it guys, any connection in an electronics system needs to be scrutenized.
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:55 AM   #1378
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when comparing a 27turn and a 17.5 what would the drag brake setting have to be using a 17.5 to be the same as a 27t natural slowdown.
In 1/12 scale I run with the second led on to get the same "feel" from full throttle to neutral.
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Old 11-10-2008, 12:26 PM   #1379
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when comparing a 27turn and a 17.5 what would the drag brake setting have to be using a 17.5 to be the same as a 27t natural slowdown.
I usaully run in the area of 20% to 35% depending how tight the track is
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:23 PM   #1380
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
...Spectrum users running 1/12 with 4 cell or any other 4 cell car for that matter. Make sure to run the sepctrum cap on the reciever. The spectrum will drop out under accelearation long before the RS turns off. If we don't get a signal we kinda wait briefly on the receiver. This is where you can "feel" a delay or you can get a throttle shot...
Hmm - what do I use for a Spektrum cap - None of my receivers came with one

They were sealed packages - SPM1210 - Just got my new RS - need to hook it up.
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