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Old 03-23-2010, 02:09 PM   #13531
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Originally Posted by biagio23 View Post
I have a problem with the tekin rs pro

The problem is this:
use the v203 tekin with software and with these values:
4 trottle profile
Timing boast 35
turbo boast 10
Dealy 0.2 turbo
3.0 turbo ramp
Start RMP 4678
end rpm 12500th
Final Report 6.5

The problem is that the regulator is very strong, but after 3 minutes significantly diminish the performance as if any further attacks on the turbo, I tried various things but I do not know what the problem is, my friend uses tekin like me and with the same settings and has no problems, and how I use ezpower lipo 50c

give me a hand to understand the problem, thank you.
Several of us at our local track are having what sounds like the same problems...we call it turbo fade. It seems like after a few minutes the strength of the turbo is significantly diminished. It seems odd as the motor temps are all fine so it doesn't seem like heat is an issue.
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Old 03-23-2010, 02:14 PM   #13532
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I was having a similar issue and it turned out to be a couple of cold solder joints. As the controller got hotter the efficiency of the connection was degraded enough for the car to slow down on the track. I was racking my head all day and at the end when I was putting everything away I decided to pull on all the joints (the ones on the speed control) and found that two I could bend and twist off. The joints where cold solder joints and not making good electrical contact. I usually use and Ohm meter to check the joints before race day, but I was traveling a long distance to race and was in a hurry. The joints cost me about 1 sec a lap under the pace and no matter how I geared or messed with the controller it would not make up the difference. So I would make sure the solder joints on the motor and speed control are good.

hope this helps.
That is an interesting possibility. I've been planning on turning my ESC so the posts are out and cool better and in the process will change the wires on the ESC. I'll take a look at the solder joints when I do that.
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Old 03-23-2010, 02:24 PM   #13533
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Several of us at our local track are having what sounds like the same problems...we call it turbo fade. It seems like after a few minutes the strength of the turbo is significantly diminished. It seems odd as the motor temps are all fine so it doesn't seem like heat is an issue.
As that is the problem set your EPA on 90%.
Than recalibrate your radio with the speedo.
After that set the EPA back on 100%. The Turbo fading is than solved.
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Old 03-23-2010, 02:50 PM   #13534
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As that is the problem set your EPA on 90%.
Than recalibrate your radio with the speedo.
After that set the EPA back on 100%. The Turbo fading is than solved.
We've all done that...doesn't work. It isn't that turbo isn't engaging...it is that it seems to have less power when it does. I've actually been trying it with a 15% difference on the end point instead of 10% and still have the issue.
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:21 PM   #13535
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We've all done that...doesn't work. It isn't that turbo isn't engaging...it is that it seems to have less power when it does. I've actually been trying it with a 15% difference on the end point instead of 10% and still have the issue.
Than you run more than 65 timing over all the track.
To much timing and especially when it is over hole the track will cause motor head and loss of power.
Loss of power you notes after a few mints.
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:55 PM   #13536
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
Than you run more than 65 timing over all the track.
To much timing and especially when it is over hole the track will cause motor head and loss of power.
Loss of power you notes after a few mints.
I have the engine temperatures are very low 40 , I repeat ilproblema occurs after about 3 minutes, I still did not understand what the problem.

I also sent an email to randy pike, we hope to answer me.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:00 PM   #13537
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Than you run more than 65 timing over all the track.
To much timing and especially when it is over hole the track will cause motor head and loss of power.
Loss of power you notes after a few mints.
I'm running Schref's setup with 50 and 10 and 0 on the motor. This is on different cars running all different motors as well.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:13 PM   #13538
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I'm running Schref's setup with 50 and 10 and 0 on the motor. This is on different cars running all different motors as well.
Ok this should be no problem than.

Strange.
I had also that problem but I solved it by changing my setup.
Now I have a higher timing in total but the timing is only higher when I'm ad the end of the straight.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:14 PM   #13539
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FDR? motor?

Im running over 65 deg of overall timing. I don't see any turbo or motor fade during my runs.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:25 PM   #13540
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Ok, I just got my new RS speedo, and I'm must be completely retarded, so please forgive my question if is seems so dumb that you are not willing to answer it. But can someone post a picture of the solder job, I see Jeff's on the first page but I can not see how you guys are soldering say Deans Noodle 12 gauge to the posts... It looks like a connector is missing, as in a connector that goes on the wire, and then connector goes on the post. It is going to look really stupid if I solder to the side of the post and heat shrink over it.... Very off set.... or do you dermal off one side of the post... I'm not picking on the speedo, just trying to understand if I'm missing something, because on the instructions, it shows a connector.... Or is 12 gauge wire way to big...

and you are using the cap included, or something bigger for 17.5?

Thanks in advance....
I first tin my wire, and I place the very end of the wire directly onto the very end of the solder post (which is also tinned). THen I place the side of my soldering iron tip 50/50 right across where they are touching, and vuala.. perfect solder joints. So basically, the wire is soldered directly to the end, and they stick directly up into the air.

The key is to to make sure you don't push down too hard on the wire when you are soldering, so you don't squish the wire... push just hard enough so the end of the wire mates up with the very tip of the solder post.

With a twisted/tinned 12 gauge wire, it should be just about the exact same size/diameter as the post itself. No connectors needed... and never use shrink tubing.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:28 PM   #13541
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Default turbo/motor fade

I think alot of the turbo/motor fade people are having is actually battery fade!

I too have experienced this before. With timing advanced speedies, you are taking alot more mah out of the lipos and drawing heaps more current!

You will never get the same punch out of a lipo after the first 3 minutes. I thought my turbo was off, but when pulled up to test, turbo was working fine. Temps were still ok.

Try this next time. When fading, exchange your lipo for a fully charged one and you will see what I mean. Cant do that during a race however but you get my drift!
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:36 PM   #13542
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Yeah battery fade is what I was thinking a while back...but when I bought a new battery and it still happened I started looking elsewhere.

I have noticed though that sometimes if I wreck and go fix my car, when I go back on the track the turbo seems to come back for a short time.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:38 PM   #13543
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Several of us at our local track are having what sounds like the same problems...we call it turbo fade. It seems like after a few minutes the strength of the turbo is significantly diminished. It seems odd as the motor temps are all fine so it doesn't seem like heat is an issue.
I do not know what to do.

we have 2 esc same engine, one is fine the other not

someone help me?
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:43 PM   #13544
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Let me explain:

I and my Mico car that has the same problem we have equal and lipo-mail the same, I'm going to bomb and he has the problem after 3 minutes
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:44 PM   #13545
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I have the same problem too, turbo fade after about 3 minutes. Is it something to do with the radio. Is the RS like everything set to 0 on the radio?
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