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Old 03-23-2010, 12:02 AM   #13501
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Solder the wires directly to the top of the posts B...and don't heatshrink them, the posts act as the heatsink. Also, I use 14ga wire instead of 12...much easier to work with and no noticeable performance loss, at least in 17.5. And you should go to the TOP Gun Shootout in Jonesboro

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Old 03-23-2010, 12:54 AM   #13502
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Rocky- your gonna step up and do the 13.5 class right?
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:41 AM   #13503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Running the RS without the cap is bad. It will cause the unit to run hotter than it should. The performance won't suffer but the unit itself will. If you need a cap in a pinch a good 16v 1000uf will work in it's place until you get the correct one: TT3520.
Randy, It came off on the last run of the day so at most 6 minutes run time without a cap. I was running 17.5 and the ESC temped at around 55c(130f) and motor at 90c(194f) which is a bit hotter than the 80/85c i was running most of the weekend. Not to detract from the Tekin but can i use a power cap from an LRP sphere on this speedo? I do not like the way this little cap hangs on and i dont have the room to mount it in a safe way without exposing the posts to the outside of the car. We run on an outdoor track with lots of little quartz rock that can cause havok if it bridges the posts. My issue with my current set up is the sensor wire fouling the cap and rubbing on it till it worked its way to snapping the tiny posts.

Thoughts would be appreciated, regards Benzaah.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:20 AM   #13504
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Ok, I just got my new RS speedo, and I'm must be completely retarded, so please forgive my question if is seems so dumb that you are not willing to answer it. But can someone post a picture of the solder job, I see Jeff's on the first page but I can not see how you guys are soldering say Deans Noodle 12 gauge to the posts... It looks like a connector is missing, as in a connector that goes on the wire, and then connector goes on the post. It is going to look really stupid if I solder to the side of the post and heat shrink over it.... Very off set.... or do you dermal off one side of the post... I'm not picking on the speedo, just trying to understand if I'm missing something, because on the instructions, it shows a connector.... Or is 12 gauge wire way to big...

and you are using the cap included, or something bigger for 17.5?

Thanks in advance....
Look here to see how to solder the wires.
http://teamtekin.com/videos/B1RInstall8mb.WMV

Use the 12 gauge.
Also don't put head shrink over them. This is your cooling from the speedo.
I used the 14 gauge but also the wires help to cool the speedo.
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:10 AM   #13505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Ok, I just got my new RS speedo, and I'm must be completely retarded, so please forgive my question if is seems so dumb that you are not willing to answer it. But can someone post a picture of the solder job, I see Jeff's on the first page but I can not see how you guys are soldering say Deans Noodle 12 gauge to the posts... It looks like a connector is missing, as in a connector that goes on the wire, and then connector goes on the post. It is going to look really stupid if I solder to the side of the post and heat shrink over it.... Very off set.... or do you dermal off one side of the post... I'm not picking on the speedo, just trying to understand if I'm missing something, because on the instructions, it shows a connector.... Or is 12 gauge wire way to big...

and you are using the cap included, or something bigger for 17.5?

Thanks in advance....
As some others have pointed out. 12 gauge is fine. But a little big. I tend to cut the tinned end of the wire down a little. The other thing that they have not pointed out is that you need a good soldering iron for 12 gauge wire to take solder. I find that even with a really good iron it is more difficult to use this wire than the 14 gauge wire. The way I solder wires to the post is so that the wire butts directly to the top of the post and I heat the post and the wire from the side. I would send a picture but my RS is not currently installed. The other way is to lay the wire down across the top of the post and solder it at a 90˚ angle. This works well too if you have the room in the car.

Ok what do I mean by good soldering iron. Well I have a weller 65 watt adjustable temp iron. The kind that has a base and a separate pencil. I also us a the large flat blade tip for this kind of soldering. A smaller tip will not transfer enough heat to the 12 gauge wire to flow solder through the wire.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:18 AM   #13506
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I m currently using 12 gauge wire on mine, but my battery has 10 gauge wires.

If I was to go down to 14 gauge, would it cause some kinda crazy bottleneck of some sort?
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:28 AM   #13507
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To solder 12 gauge wire to the solder posts end to end (a butt joint) I pre tin the wires then I squeeze the soldered ends with a pair of long handled pliers to get the ends to a size that will fit in the grooves on the top of the ESC posts.

After pre-tinning the ESC posts I then put my wedge shaped 12 gauge wires into the ESC posts and solder in place. I servo tape the ESC to my work surface to keep the posts vertical.

It's a bit tricky to get a good joint on them like this at first. I've had a couple of joints break on my this but now I'm getting consistently good joints.
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:47 AM   #13508
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Running the RS without the cap is bad. It will cause the unit to run hotter than it should. The performance won't suffer but the unit itself will. If you need a cap in a pinch a good 16v 1000uf will work in it's place until you get the correct one: TT3520.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Randy, It came off on the last run of the day so at most 6 minutes run time without a cap. I was running 17.5 and the ESC temped at around 55c(130f) and motor at 90c(194f) which is a bit hotter than the 80/85c i was running most of the weekend. Not to detract from the Tekin but can i use a power cap from an LRP sphere on this speedo? I do not like the way this little cap hangs on and i dont have the room to mount it in a safe way without exposing the posts to the outside of the car. We run on an outdoor track with lots of little quartz rock that can cause havok if it bridges the posts. My issue with my current set up is the sensor wire fouling the cap and rubbing on it till it worked its way to snapping the tiny posts.

Thoughts would be appreciated, regards Benzaah.

Hey Ben,


If you get stuck and need a cap let me know, I have some brand new Tekin ones to get you out of trouble. Also I will take a look at your set up on the weekend and show you how I have mine soldered up, if done right you shouldnt have any problems with the cap and sensor wire

Cheers,

James
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:52 AM   #13509
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Anybody running X12 17.5? Im interested in seeing some SC settings
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:51 AM   #13510
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Guys,


Just need to check couple of things :

1.- For 1/10th 13.5 class onroad touring, RS PRO and RS ESCs would be exactly the same in performance right ?.

2.- Would me much difference in gearing to use the optional 12.5 rotor v/s the 12.3 stock one ?

thanks,

Pat
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:08 AM   #13511
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Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Guys,


Just need to check couple of things :

1.- For 1/10th 13.5 class onroad touring, RS PRO and RS ESCs would be exactly the same in performance right ?.

2.- Would me much difference in gearing to use the optional 12.5 rotor v/s the 12.3 stock one ?

thanks,

Pat
1 no there is for stock no difference.
2 yes there is a bit difference but I would Keep the 12,5
why do you want the 12,3?
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:15 AM   #13512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatspunout View Post
Solder the wires directly to the top of the posts B...and don't heatshrink them, the posts act as the heatsink. Also, I use 14ga wire instead of 12...much easier to work with and no noticeable performance loss, at least in 17.5. And you should go to the TOP Gun Shootout in Jonesboro

-rocky b
When is Jonseboro? I did not know they are running Nitro in Jonseboro...

How big is the airport there, will it take a personal jet???
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:17 AM   #13513
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Thanks to all on the solder question... I now understand....

Are you guys using the cap or not, I find these are easier to put on before all the other stuff....
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:18 AM   #13514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Thanks to all on the solder question... I now understand....

Are you guys using the cap or not, I find these are easier to put on before all the other stuff....
yes use the cap,solder it on first then put the wire over it
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:47 AM   #13515
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if you are using 12,3mm rotor then you will get a little more rpm.
it can be usefull on large tracks.
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