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Old 03-09-2010, 02:27 PM   #13141
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
Hi mikky32
This has probably been asked before, but please can you tell me why, after around 3 to 3.5 mins does my car seem to die down the straight, it seems that the turbo dissapears.
My techs are:

Trinity Duo2 at 1 mark to the right of centre, which I believe to be 16+ degrees?
Geared at 7.9 on a 100ft length straight
Start RPM 4270
End 10000
Brake strength 75
Neutral width Min
Voltage cut off 2
Motor Type BL-FW
Throtel profile 3
Timing boost 45
Turbo Boost 15
Delay 0

The motor came off arnd 53 degrees at 3 mins, but I have heard that if you reduce the throtel EPA on on the handset from 150 to around 120 it cures this problem, is this true? as I have not had a chance to try this. Are there any other things I can do?

Cheers Malc
Set to 90 calibrate and add 100 for the turbo issue
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:28 PM   #13142
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
Hi mikky32
This has probably been asked before, but please can you tell me why, after around 3 to 3.5 mins does my car seem to die down the straight, it seems that the turbo dissapears.
My techs are:

Trinity Duo2 at 1 mark to the right of centre, which I believe to be 16+ degrees?
Geared at 7.9 on a 100ft length straight
Start RPM 4270
End 10000
Brake strength 75
Neutral width Min
Voltage cut off 2
Motor Type BL-FW
Throtel profile 3
Timing boost 45
Turbo Boost 15
Delay 0

The motor came off arnd 53 degrees at 3 mins, but I have heard that if you reduce the throtel EPA on on the handset from 150 to around 120 it cures this problem, is this true? as I have not had a chance to try this. Are there any other things I can do?

Cheers Malc
As your Turbo disappears you must do the EPA thing.
Set your EPA to 90%. Recalibrate your speedo with your radio and after that set the EPA back to 100%. The problem is solved than.
I think that this is your problem.
As you can set it higher than you can do it also.
I can set my EPA on 120%
I calibrated it ad 100% and set my EPA on 120%

I would Also change the setup a bit.
Set a bit more motor timing and lower the Turbo.
Also set the start RPM to 5000+
Than the End RPM to 12000
You can than gear a bit heavier.
Turbo ramp on 2 and as you want more acceleration power ad the start set it to 3.

Whit a to high timing in total you can also feel that you lose power but I think this is an EPA thing as it is the Turbo.
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:30 PM   #13143
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
And would be good if you could save previous setup in a folder, instead of writing yet another tech sheet out.

Cheers Malc
+1
than you can send your setup or set it online to download.
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Old 03-09-2010, 03:49 PM   #13144
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Originally Posted by spencehotbodies View Post
Hello Skiddens

Who was the quickest? and what class? and what chassis?

Cheers
Spence
Technically it was Paul Pinkney, but he was running Mod (Tamiya), then Ashley Wiffen (Hot Bodies) in 10.5, didn't pay attention to the girls classes below that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_dono View Post
Sounds like you had fun
just one thing though... "0 timing on the motor" isn't 0 timing, which insert were you using ?
The standard 'central' one, temps never got very high either, I could always keep my hand on the motor.

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Ya Mum was lmffao

And where were you? Looks like I should be handing out four feathers.

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Old 03-09-2010, 04:41 PM   #13145
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Has anyone had any issues with the Tekin running full throttle out of knowhere? I have had this happen on 2 occassions recently. Both after wrecks. Once i was walking back to the pits with the car and radio on and the car went into full throttle and blew a tire off the car before I could turn it off.

Just curious if anyone might have some insight into this.
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Old 03-09-2010, 06:16 PM   #13146
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Maybe this is more of a Duratrax question but...I noticed when taking the temp on my RS and Duo2 with my Duratrax temp gauge that I get much higher readings then my friends do with their more accurate more expensive temp guns. I changed the emissivity setting to aluminum and the instructions say at that setting to take the temps from an inch or less away. Most temp guns I've seen in the past say to take the readings from about 5 inches away and when I use my Duratrax from that distance I get very close readings to what the more expensive temp guns give...So I'm just wondering which method I should be using?
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:08 PM   #13147
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Originally Posted by jammincrtjames View Post
Has anyone had any issues with the Tekin running full throttle out of knowhere? I have had this happen on 2 occassions recently. Both after wrecks. Once i was walking back to the pits with the car and radio on and the car went into full throttle and blew a tire off the car before I could turn it off.

Just curious if anyone might have some insight into this.
contact your local TOYOTA dealership...
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:26 PM   #13148
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Originally Posted by tallyrc View Post
contact your local TOYOTA dealership...
LOL.....

On a serious note, the only thing I can think of is to rebind the reciever to the radio. If yo bound it with the throttle reversed or somthing weird, it will revert back when the loss of the radio is detected.
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:05 PM   #13149
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Originally Posted by jammincrtjames View Post
Has anyone had any issues with the Tekin running full throttle out of knowhere? I have had this happen on 2 occassions recently. Both after wrecks. Once i was walking back to the pits with the car and radio on and the car went into full throttle and blew a tire off the car before I could turn it off.

Just curious if anyone might have some insight into this.
Yes, it happened to me. As mentioned in a previous post, my loss of thrust control was due to my receiver failing....it didn't loose bind, it just died.
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:57 PM   #13150
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ed-my-car.html

looks like he had the same issue i think. dont know if it helps or not
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:01 PM   #13151
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looks like he had the same issue i think. dont know if it helps or not
i'm pretty sure these didnt happen as pics were never posted.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:11 PM   #13152
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Maybe this is more of a Duratrax question but...I noticed when taking the temp on my RS and Duo2 with my Duratrax temp gauge that I get much higher readings then my friends do with their more accurate more expensive temp guns. I changed the emissivity setting to aluminum and the instructions say at that setting to take the temps from an inch or less away. Most temp guns I've seen in the past say to take the readings from about 5 inches away and when I use my Duratrax from that distance I get very close readings to what the more expensive temp guns give...So I'm just wondering which method I should be using?
The temp guns can vary by as much as 20 degrees from unit to unit. Don't bother using it on the RS, the most accurate temp guage is the onboard temp indication. That will give you the actual micro temp.

Also temp guns need a dark surface for accuracy. So on your motor make sure the surface is not silver. Electrical tape can help get a more accurate reading.
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:08 PM   #13153
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The temp guns can vary by as much as 20 degrees from unit to unit. Don't bother using it on the RS, the most accurate temp guage is the onboard temp indication. That will give you the actual micro temp.

Also temp guns need a dark surface for accuracy. So on your motor make sure the surface is not silver. Electrical tape can help get a more accurate reading.
yes, like Randy said a patch of black electrical tape will help give a better reading. if you are curious, you can try temping the side of a pan of boiling water (212F at standard day sealevel)
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:58 PM   #13154
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Okay---I ran my Tekin RS last week at WC in my F-104 car with a 21.5 motor and it works great!! I did catch a board with my front end however--and had to change out the digital steering servo--for a standard style. With my Futaba 3PK transmitter--I have to change from HRS to PPM output to make the servo work properly---and when I DO--the Tekin speed control will now no longer sense the throttle Center point--and won't work????? What's up with that????
Do I need to put it back on the hotbox and re-load the program?? Did it hurt it by going from HRS to PPM???? HELP!!!!! CANNOT get the throttle to work now as it WON'T find center point on the transmitter?????????
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:26 AM   #13155
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Originally Posted by timmig View Post
Okay---I ran my Tekin RS last week at WC in my F-104 car with a 21.5 motor and it works great!! I did catch a board with my front end however--and had to change out the digital steering servo--for a standard style. With my Futaba 3PK transmitter--I have to change from HRS to PPM output to make the servo work properly---and when I DO--the Tekin speed control will now no longer sense the throttle Center point--and won't work????? What's up with that????
Do I need to put it back on the hotbox and re-load the program?? Did it hurt it by going from HRS to PPM???? HELP!!!!! CANNOT get the throttle to work now as it WON'T find center point on the transmitter?????????
Tim
try doing the setup again with the remote. i have had to do it afew times and it goes right back to normal. give it a try and if not then call tekin and ask for chris. he is the guy that developed the tekin software. i talked to him today and he is a great guy and will help you through it
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