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Old 03-04-2010, 10:41 AM   #12916
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so if i am understanding right boost is for the acceleration and the boost is more for the straights?
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Old 03-04-2010, 10:49 AM   #12917
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so if i am understanding right boost is for the acceleration and the boost is more for the straights?
timing boost&motor then turbo boost
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:24 PM   #12918
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do you mean 4k start and 8xxx end
hi, no 800 start, 4000 end, its a small track I race on
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:27 PM   #12919
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:31 PM   #12920
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Question:
I have the RS PRO and I wanted to know ,can I use the turbo setting on low turn mod motor?
Yes a bit but you don't need it.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:43 PM   #12921
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Yes a bit but you don't need it.
Thanks...
I know this person ran a mod motor with the turbo and it blew up...the was
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:54 PM   #12922
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Thanks...
I know this person ran a mod motor with the turbo and it blew up...the was
with any motor you can now push them beyond their usable rpm limit, especially if geared too low, or free rev'd.
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:03 PM   #12923
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whoooow can you send me the address of both new tracks
Yes, I will once they are ready. They are both still understand constructions at the moment.
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:04 PM   #12924
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Be care full with the Turbo on low turn motors.
You can run sensord now with it bud also that is incredible fast.
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:17 PM   #12925
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First post on this thread, Tekin is awesome... Thanks for a great product.... Along the lines of the recent discussions, there seems to be two setups to run...

setup1 TB (turbo then boost) (Jason ) where you have turbo coming (0 delay) with boost layering on top of that over a long range, rpm range is set higher than 4000 (depending on fdr) to 10000-13000 (depending on track size/fdr)... this config allows you to go WOT and use turbo though the infield on the longer stretches and have good control over the punch.... boost is carrying you to top speed...

setup2 BT(boost then turbo) (Jeff) boost comes in low from 2000 to 7000-9000 RPM, turbo kicks in after a delay that is approximately 1/2 the time it takes to travel the the straight away giving you a kick down the end of the straight....The awesome part of this setup was that for infield, you can turbo and get inside someone by going WOT ... but this is why the temps suddenly jump as your adding heat both accelerating and braking...

My numbers come from an 85x35ft track, nemesis 17.5 0 timing and orca 17.5 built in timing... TC... fairly technical, a couple of 180s... carpet indoor...FDR around 5.8-6.2... both setups are running 50 boost, 10 turbo... differing delays/rpms.... At our track pretty much everyone is running setup #1... However, most of the recommendations are to use turbo for the last 1/3 of the straight.... I am hoping that Jason/Jeff could comment on the two setups....

My driving style is that if the car is going straight I am WOT or braking.... with setup #2 this generates incredible heat... setup #1 my temp coming off consistantly at 135F, and with setup #2 its either 110F or 190F depending on how aggressive I am though the infield (WOT/braking)... Times are quicker with setup #2 but I struggle not overheat the motor in 6 minute races...

1) is the difference track size? big means you have to use the turbo to fill out the end of the straight without compromising the punch from the FDR?

2) is the recommendation to tune without turbo first still? or big track runs BT, and small track means turbo then boost TB?

3) Jeff, are you WOT only on the straight? do you have a large variance? Given the details I provided, what would you change to make the temp more consistant coming off? Is it just more discipline in use of turbo on the infield?

Thanks again for a great product and I look forward to any feedback.... Thanks in advance...

-b
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:40 PM   #12926
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Default RS Pro + 17.5 Duo 2 in 2S WGT CRC GenX 10

Hi,

track technical 25x8m high grip carpet. Spur 96, pinion 27, tires 58mm. At the moment settings are

Motor timing on five and half mark to +.
Drag Brake - 0
Reverse Strength - 33
Neutral Width - 8
Motor Type - BL-DL
Throttle Profile - 3
Voltage Cutoff - 2
Push Control - Off
Timing Boost - 30
Turbo Boost - 5
Turbo Delay - 0,2
Turbo Ramp - 2,0
Start RPM - 1598
End RPM - 11016

First problem that when in straight there is no feel of engaging Turbo Boost. And motor temps are ~55-60C. What suggestions? Something to change to get more speed and lower temps? Would like to lower temp a little bit because I am learning to drive and my speed is improving... so motor temperature will increase :-)
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:38 PM   #12927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twk-b View Post
First post on this thread, Tekin is awesome... Thanks for a great product.... Along the lines of the recent discussions, there seems to be two setups to run...

setup1 TB (turbo then boost) (Jason ) where you have turbo coming (0 delay) with boost layering on top of that over a long range, rpm range is set higher than 4000 (depending on fdr) to 10000-13000 (depending on track size/fdr)... this config allows you to go WOT and use turbo though the infield on the longer stretches and have good control over the punch.... boost is carrying you to top speed...

setup2 BT(boost then turbo) (Jeff) boost comes in low from 2000 to 7000-9000 RPM, turbo kicks in after a delay that is approximately 1/2 the time it takes to travel the the straight away giving you a kick down the end of the straight....The awesome part of this setup was that for infield, you can turbo and get inside someone by going WOT ... but this is why the temps suddenly jump as your adding heat both accelerating and braking...

My numbers come from an 85x35ft track, nemesis 17.5 0 timing and orca 17.5 built in timing... TC... fairly technical, a couple of 180s... carpet indoor...FDR around 5.8-6.2... both setups are running 50 boost, 10 turbo... differing delays/rpms.... At our track pretty much everyone is running setup #1... However, most of the recommendations are to use turbo for the last 1/3 of the straight.... I am hoping that Jason/Jeff could comment on the two setups....

My driving style is that if the car is going straight I am WOT or braking.... with setup #2 this generates incredible heat... setup #1 my temp coming off consistantly at 135F, and with setup #2 its either 110F or 190F depending on how aggressive I am though the infield (WOT/braking)... Times are quicker with setup #2 but I struggle not overheat the motor in 6 minute races...

1) is the difference track size? big means you have to use the turbo to fill out the end of the straight without compromising the punch from the FDR?

2) is the recommendation to tune without turbo first still? or big track runs BT, and small track means turbo then boost TB?

3) Jeff, are you WOT only on the straight? do you have a large variance? Given the details I provided, what would you change to make the temp more consistant coming off? Is it just more discipline in use of turbo on the infield?

Thanks again for a great product and I look forward to any feedback.... Thanks in advance...

-b
I would say there is a Setup 3, which is boost and turbo together. I have a .1 delay and a 2,500 start RPM so for the most part I am using both turbo and boost at the same time.

If your temps are 190 I think a few changes to your setup and gearing will bring you back down to the acceptable 170* range. Perhaps try a combination of setup 1 and setup2 to get the best of both worlds (the speed + the lower temps).
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:52 PM   #12928
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Originally Posted by audriusv View Post
Hi,

track technical 25x8m high grip carpet. Spur 96, pinion 27, tires 58mm. At the moment settings are

Motor timing on five and half mark to +.
Drag Brake - 0
Reverse Strength - 33
Neutral Width - 8
Motor Type - BL-DL
Throttle Profile - 3
Voltage Cutoff - 2
Push Control - Off
Timing Boost - 30
Turbo Boost - 5
Turbo Delay - 0,2
Turbo Ramp - 2,0
Start RPM - 1598
End RPM - 11016

First problem that when in straight there is no feel of engaging Turbo Boost. And motor temps are ~55-60C. What suggestions? Something to change to get more speed and lower temps? Would like to lower temp a little bit because I am learning to drive and my speed is improving... so motor temperature will increase :-)
What motor do you have and how many turns?
And 1 or 2 cell lipo?

Why BL-DL and not BL-FW?
May you use it in the races?
Set your Turbo on 0 and higher your Boost. st it to 45 to start with and find a good infield speed.
You can raise it as the motor stays cool.
As you than come top speed to short you can ad some motor timing.
But for a good setup give some more information about the motor.
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:35 PM   #12929
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Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
hi, no 800 start, 4000 end, its a small track I race on
i see it now,i would try 5k end 1xxx start 40 timing boost 5-10 motor or 30 timing boost 10 motor 5 turbo 3 ramp delay .1
this is just something to try
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Old 03-04-2010, 04:06 PM   #12930
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The motor rpms are rarely 4k or lower unless you make a mistake and literally stop. The motor is really not below 6k to 10k depending on the track. WIth the rpm at 6k or less the boost is always on and the benefits of adding it as the motor rpms increase are not there.

Our default rpms are stupid The high rpm value needs to be 8k to 12k at least to be really getting any sliding action on the boost. Even 8k may barely reduce the boost timing at all even at the slowest part of the corner.

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