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Old 03-01-2010, 08:27 PM   #12796
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Originally Posted by xray2050 View Post
Yes I reset the radio. I originally thought it was a radio problem so I tried it with another guys radio at the track that was running an RS and it still had no punch.
Did you then set the RS to the radio?
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:50 PM   #12797
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Originally Posted by mike ivy View Post
Anyone have a 13.5 WGT setup? The motor im using is a Duo 1 on a 100x40 ish track.
Middle hole on the motor, 45 Boost, no turbo, throttle profile 3 or 4, 100 brake, 10 nuetral threshold, rollout at 2.558

Anything I missed?
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:07 PM   #12798
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Did you then set the RS to the radio?
If you mean the neutral/full forward/full brake, set-up. Yes
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:22 PM   #12799
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Originally Posted by Swen View Post
Middle hole on the motor, 45 Boost, no turbo, throttle profile 3 or 4, 100 brake, 10 nuetral threshold, rollout at 2.558

Anything I missed?
IMO...Don't agree with the middle hole on the Duo 1 for WGT. Let the RS do the timing advancing.

The rest is doable; but, turbo can be easily used on a 80' plus long track...Come to NorCal. We will be happy to show you...LOL

Drag brake?
Voltage cutoff (Off; but, always unplug the battery after a run for safety.)
Push control?
1S lipo (Checked)
Turbo delay?
Sensored (Checked)
End RPM?
Start RM?
Turbo ramp?

Use a servo battery pack. I like the Trinity/Epic 220mah Li-Fe battery pack (Unplug it too.)

It's a package!

Bill
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:28 PM   #12800
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Originally Posted by xray2050 View Post
If you mean the neutral/full forward/full brake, set-up. Yes
Your signature list says KO. Is that your radio? Where is the HighPoint set when you are setting your RS?

Still just going through the possibilities...LOL

Bill
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:38 PM   #12801
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
IMO...Don't agree with the middle hole on the Duo 1 for WGT. Let the RS do the timing advancing.

The rest is doable; but, turbo can be easily used on a 80' plus long track...Come to NorCal. We will be happy to show you...LOL
I liked the 10 degrees on the motor, I feel that it pulled just a little harder than 0. I may experiment more but with these settings I got alot of compliments on how fast the car was and I never lost a step to anyone on the infield.

Yes, I was just giving my settings off the top of my head. On 100' you could use turbo, I'd start with 5.

I'll put my settings here. Why didn't you give yours Bill?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Drag brake?
Voltage cutoff (Off; but, always unplug the battery after a run for safety.)
Push control?
1S lipo (Checked)
Turbo delay?
Sensored (Checked)
End RPM?
Start RM?
Turbo ramp?

Use a servo battery pack. I like the Trinity/Epic 220mah Li-Fe battery pack (Unplug it too.)

It's a package!

Bill
DB None.
Voltage Cutoff is off.
Push Control None.
1s Checked
Turbo Delay 2-3 but since I wasn't using turbo this was irrelevant.
Sensored Checked for sure.
End Rpm 7500
Start Rpm First option... like 800 I think it was.
Turbo Ramp 1

Yes I also use a receiver pack, I may try one of the RCDynamics boosters out when I can get one though. Any other questions feel free to ask.
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:30 PM   #12802
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Im having a problem with one of my RS's ,what it does is sometimes at the start of the race it wont go at all and all the lights will be flashing , other times its fine. I've tried changing neutral with and recalibrating my radio too. What else can i try before i send it in. By the way its in a 13.5 1/12th scale running a reciever pack.
Thanks Ryan
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:35 PM   #12803
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Jon,

I was trying a address Mike Ivy's stated WGT car and track description (which is comparable to my local carpet track at NorCal Hobbies).

What WGT car do you have and general size of track are you running on? Asking because I have not yet run on anything shorter or longer...And I do expect big differences in RS settings between track sizes.

Bill
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Last edited by Still Bill; 03-01-2010 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:15 PM   #12804
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Originally Posted by Swen View Post
Yes I also use a receiver pack, I may try one of the RCDynamics boosters out when I can get one though. Any other questions feel free to ask.
I already tried Novak and TQ boosters. Both are convenient; but, I have had better 6 minute run stats after switching to the Li-Fe pack.

Bill
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:19 PM   #12805
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Your signature list says KO. Is that your radio? Where is the HighPoint set when you are setting your RS?

Still just going through the possibilities...LOL

Bill
The first time I did it I dropped the high point to 140 (max is 150) Each time after reseting I would drop it even lower. I got as low as 115. There doesn't seem to be a problem with it going fast and having the boost once the car gets going it is really fast but that initial punch no matter if it is from a dead stop or rolling through a corner the car just has no punch. Almost as if the current limiter is set to max limit, but I have that set to zero so there should be no limiter. Everything that limits initial punch or neutral dead band has been set so there is no delay. When we did adjust for some delay it was even worse.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:42 PM   #12806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
Im having a problem with one of my RS's ,what it does is sometimes at the start of the race it wont go at all and all the lights will be flashing , other times its fine. I've tried changing neutral with and recalibrating my radio too. What else can i try before i send it in. By the way its in a 13.5 1/12th scale running a reciever pack.
Thanks Ryan
All the lights flashing means the esc is not seeing any signal coming from the receiver. How are you powering up every race?
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:43 PM   #12807
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Originally Posted by xray2050 View Post
The first time I did it I dropped the high point to 140 (max is 150) Each time after reseting I would drop it even lower. I got as low as 115. There doesn't seem to be a problem with it going fast and having the boost once the car gets going it is really fast but that initial punch no matter if it is from a dead stop or rolling through a corner the car just has no punch. Almost as if the current limiter is set to max limit, but I have that set to zero so there should be no limiter. Everything that limits initial punch or neutral dead band has been set so there is no delay. When we did adjust for some delay it was even worse.
Pete,

I initially set my HiPoint to 140 and then to 150 after setting the RS.

That's per Robert at KO.

Bill
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:46 PM   #12808
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Jon,

I was trying a address Mike Ivy's stated WGT car and track description (which is comparable to my local carpet track at NorCal Hobbies).

What WGT car do you have and general size of track are you running on? Asking because I have not yet run on anything shorter or longer...And I do expect big differences in RS settings between track sizes.

Bill
I am running the CRC GenX 10, 75x40 track. I wasn't running Turbo at that track but after you mentioned it I remembered that Mike's was 100' and I agreed that Turbo would work there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
I already tried Novak and TQ boosters. Both are convenient; but, I have had better 6 minute run stats after switching to the Li-Fe pack.

Bill
I've heard too many bad things about the Novak and the TQ is ok, although I haven't tried it. I'm running a lipo with a regulator now. I've heard very good things about the RC Dynamics booster though. It's worth a shot.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:47 PM   #12809
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Krio thanks for the reply. The reciever pack has a switch on it i dont turn the switch on on the speedo. This only happens sometimes do you think i should try a different reciever?
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:09 AM   #12810
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Originally Posted by Swen View Post
I am running the CRC GenX 10, 75x40 track. I wasn't running Turbo at that track but after you mentioned it I remembered that Mike's was 100' and I agreed that Turbo would work there.
With a bit of a flyer onto a 75 foot straight, you can engage turbo.

Off topic...Is your RS ESC to one side (and car balanced side-to-side) or directly behind the battery (in-line). Just went away from the in-line layout with great results...and lower lap times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swen View Post
I've heard too many bad things about the Novak and the TQ is ok, although I haven't tried it. I'm running a lipo with a regulator now. I've heard very good things about the RC Dynamics booster though. It's worth a shot.
I want every bit of the juice coming out of my 1S pack through my RS and on to the motor. Not powering servos, ESCs or booster boards. Makes a big difference for lap times during the later part of a run. Li-Fe pack is a great solution.

Bill
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