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Old 02-17-2010, 12:38 PM   #12331
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Did you heatshrink the posts?
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
i havn't but will now
I think 2wdrive asked about the posts because you are NOT supposed to heat shrink them. They help cool the ESC and putting heat shrink on the posts will contribute to higher ESC temps.
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:50 PM   #12332
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I think 2wdrive asked about the posts because you are NOT supposed to heat shrink them. They help cool the ESC and putting heat shrink on the posts will contribute to higher ESC temps.
ok i thought if they get hot the shrink wrap will stop then contacting and cooking the speedo and battery
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:52 PM   #12333
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Did you heatshrink the posts?
The manual specifically say NOT to heat shrink the posts. They act as the heat sink for the speedo and are there to dissipate heat.

EDIT: Sorry, someone mentioned it above.
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:54 PM   #12334
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indeed, that is why i asked as you should NOT heatshrink them! RTFM
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Old 02-17-2010, 01:00 PM   #12335
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RTFM
LOL that is for women PFFFF RTFM !!!!!
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:53 PM   #12336
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Doubtful that it was software related! I can't believe that the lipo was not hurt either! Might have been from running NOVICE
I ran the battery twice, and it ran fine. And as for running Novice, I have never ran offraod before and I didn't want to be in the pro's way. But then again, I'm not as talanted as some, or have a big chip on my shoulder either.
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:56 PM   #12337
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I don't think it was a software issue, but more of a hardware issue somewhere. And no, I didn't heatshrink the posts. Sounds like Tekin is going to take care of it anyway, so we'll see.
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:40 PM   #12338
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Never put a head shrink around the solder post. You will over head the speedo a lot faster.
You don't need a fan as the speedo is not blinking more than 4 or 5 lights with stock.
I think one of the battery wires came loose and caused this problem.

Tekin has a good service so don't worry.
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:02 PM   #12339
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You guys wanna see what happens when an RS is having software issues?
That was not caused by software. That appears to be caused by something hitting two posts together. Judging by the burn marks on the chassis the chassis itself may have become an inductor and caused the short. Composite chassis can still conduct power and the graphite ones are known for this. This is why I do not like to hear about velcro holding esc's down(not saying yours was) or even see questionable mounting practices.
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:49 PM   #12340
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is it ok glueing the esc to the chassis itself or is that not recommended?

I know sometimes when I used double sided tape, the esc came off the tape/chassis, and yes both surfaces were clean before applying DS tape.

it happens more often when the wires are short, and/or thicker gauge.
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:56 PM   #12341
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you need better tape
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:02 PM   #12342
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Personally, I shoe goo all my electronics down in all my cars. As long as you don't push down hard and spread the shoe goo really thin they are still easy to remove.
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:31 PM   #12343
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Looks like the "+" & "-" RS post were contacting the chassis post battery mount lug.
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:39 PM   #12344
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that could of been it. I know I was pitted by him and that picture looks decent from in person. I know it wasnt his soldering skills or anything like that because he did mine (thanks again) and mine ran like a champ
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:43 PM   #12345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
you need better tape
I second that, I have stuck steering servos in with Trinity Tape and not come loose. denatured alcohol clean and stick with no fingers touching the tape like putting stickers on with a knife.

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Personally, I shoe goo all my electronics down in all my cars. As long as you don't push down hard and spread the shoe goo really thin they are still easy to remove.
Thats crazy hoss, I have to write that down, one more use for shoe goo. Its like duck tape.
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