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Old 02-15-2010, 08:40 AM   #12226
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Originally Posted by jmackani View Post
I had the same problem with my novak motor that I just figured out this week. Advance the timing on the motor one notch and make sure the 3 screws on the endbell holding the sensor in place are tight. This cured mine.

woah, no that doesn't sound right. You were replying to a setup that already had 60 degrees of combined timing, which is WAY too high for any setup, hence the squealing noise.

Overtime a motor, and you can damage the motor and or ESC, as per Randys post earlier...
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:50 AM   #12227
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
who said it was recommended to run a receiver cap,it is recommended to use a booster for 1s.
Randy and others with the issue. If you search for DSM brownout there are posts about it.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:22 AM   #12228
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Running a Tekin RS with my 1/12 with no receiver pack.

1) Do I check the box w/1s in Hotwire or leave it unchecked?

2) Do I need a voltage booster?

3) What voltage cutoff do I use?


Thanks.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:30 AM   #12229
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
Running a Tekin RS with my 1/12 with no receiver pack.

1) Do I check the box w/1s in Hotwire or leave it unchecked?

2) Do I need a voltage booster?

3) What voltage cutoff do I use?


Thanks.
1: Depends on whether you want a voltage cutoff or not (as you'll either leave the switch off or turn it on for cutoff to work)

2: Yes

3: I use 3.070 set in the speedo, but rarely turn on the speedo unless I'm running modified motors (switch the booster on and leave the speedo off)
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:33 AM   #12230
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Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
I think you may be onto something here.

I have heard of RS Pro mod setups commonly use 2 caps, and with 13.5 laptimes being not too far behind mod laptimes in todays age with powerful lipos, it is a distinct possability that 13.5 now shares the same need as a mod motor in some situations where you are geared for speed...

I can see no harm in trying this if you have a spare one to hand Tim!

It would also make sense that not everyone has the problem too, as they may have an additional cap installed to cure the problem.
It's worth a try, as it'll only take a minute or two to solder on a different/additional one

Tim, If you're stuck for one, give me a shout and I'll get one to you as I've got spare Tekin caps at home.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:34 AM   #12231
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
Running a Tekin RS with my 1/12 with no receiver pack.

1) Do I check the box w/1s in Hotwire or leave it unchecked?

2) Do I need a voltage booster?

3) What voltage cutoff do I use?


Thanks.

Make sure you check the 1S box - this optimizes the ESC's operation with a 1S battery. You will need a voltage booster if you're not using a receiver pack, although the preferred 1S setup uses a receiver pack instead of a booster. Use a voltage cutoff of 3.07-3.14 - you'll have to scroll to the top of the cutoff slider to see the custom voltage settings, then you'll have the ability to select the voltage cutoff level. Make sure you don't leave the slider in the middle position @ 3, because that setting is intended for 3S, not 3 volts.
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:06 AM   #12232
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Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
woah, no that doesn't sound right. You were replying to a setup that already had 60 degrees of combined timing, which is WAY too high for any setup, hence the squealing noise.

Overtime a motor, and you can damage the motor and or ESC, as per Randys post earlier...
No, he is right. 0 degrees of timing is relative on all these motors and too little timing will cause stuttering on starts. Velocity motors are actually rather low on "relative" timing. Take a look inside the can and see where the sensors are compared to the center of each stator. On the tekin motors at 0 degrees on the can the sensors are around 30 degrees clockwise past the center while cranking the can to 24 degrees puts them almost between each winding.
I was having the same issue after updating my friend to 203 with an orion motor. We retarded the timing below the large timing mark on the can and it stuttered like crazy. Adding the timing back worked every time.
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:10 AM   #12233
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I want to ask a simple question....where can I buy TEKIN RS speedo right now in USA? Seriously.....online or offline. My LHS said they don't know when they will see any TEKIN instock.
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:15 AM   #12234
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hello, i am new to TC i have a new tc5 with the tekin esc and a tekin 17.5...our track is 70x30 technical...where do i begin with esc setup, gearing, i see alot of setups but i do not know if the tracks are small, medium, or large..i believe the one i run on would be considered small....any suggestions.....i am all ears...also how do i begin to set this thing up as far as gearing...thanks in advance.
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:33 AM   #12235
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Originally Posted by THancock View Post
Dual Drive isn't an option as I need to run it sensored only to get the benefit of v203.

I don't use brakes at low speed as the car setup gets me round the corners without coming to a standstill. I only need brakes from high speed to bring me to cornering speed, which is usually a very quick stab of the brakes when using the SPX.
Hi Tim,

i've been running the Tekin for the last month or so and had no pronlem with the brakes except when i first ran it at west kent and had the brakes set to 100 which kept locking the wheels up when braking hard for a hairpin, at the time it felt like i had no brakes but i couldn't increase the value so tried backing it off to around 80 now the brakes are awesome i've even backed it down more since. I've run this setup at both west kent and Rugracers and had awesome brakes with no fade both times It may be worth trying dropping the value and get someone to watch the car as you slam on the anchors to see if it's sliding or not? Also what setup are you running?
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Old 02-15-2010, 11:01 AM   #12236
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Originally Posted by JPMSRacing View Post
I am going to try and talk to Tekin this week, right now I am trying to figure out what to do to get this new B44 up and going to race after I replace the chassis, from this mess. I really didnt want to buy another Novak, but I am scared of Tekin right now. It has been so frustrating and extremely costly having to buy someone a new motor and a chassis for a new car I havent even raced yet.
Something is off either way. Yes if you continue to drive a motor that is cogging you can not only ruin the motor but ruin the speedo also. Cogging is bad and should not be driven through.

For 7.5 your setup will differ greatly from a 10.5 setup.

Each brand of motor is also different enough to make certain changes to compensate for them.

This is why we always reccomend starting with low settings and working your way up to the big settings. Going big right out of the gate can cause huge issues, as you've found.

There are tens of thousands of RS users right now not having issues. But for those of you that do have them, we're here to help you work them out.
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Old 02-15-2010, 12:21 PM   #12237
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Originally Posted by bigbank66 View Post
Callin all Tekin Specialtist??? her is my set up...i have a problem when i give a small amount of throttle i have a squealing sound from my esc...i changed the sensor wire..i have a digital servo..novak 17.5 ball..drag break 20...rev off...break 90...neutral 10...motor bl-fw..throttle 5...voltage 2...push off...timinmg 50...turbo 10..turbo delay 0.1...end rpm 7000...start rpm 2437...turbo ramp 3.0...spur 100...pinion 41...an im driving a photon...help fellas i got to get rid of the squeal!!!
BINGO!!!!!!!! Thats how my problem started with light throttle and lots of noise, but my set up was simple, no turbo and little boost timing!!!!!!!! Then got worse.
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Old 02-15-2010, 12:32 PM   #12238
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from my experience 2400 is to low of timing start with sedan try 3800-5000 ish and see how it sounds then
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Old 02-15-2010, 12:41 PM   #12239
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Originally Posted by Kenny L View Post
from my experience 2400 is to low of timing start with sedan try 3800-5000 ish and see how it sounds then
Depends on your track and driving style (and gearing, and a slew of other factors). I run 2,500 as my start in sedan. I tried 4,000 and there was a painful delay until the boost started coming in.
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Old 02-15-2010, 12:46 PM   #12240
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Originally Posted by motomanpat View Post
I have an RS coming this week and I am starting to get worried reading about all the issues people are having. Are most of these issues human error or are there issues with the software?
They are almost always human error. There will always be some parts of this system (Hotwire, speedo, motor) that fail, but the Tekin is equipped with more diagnostics than any other speedo out there. Finding the problem is more likely with Tekin gear.

Guys, this is as much an area where experience and understanding count as tuning BR motors ever was. There were more people who weren't able to tune a BR motor than were, and so it is with BL and the new breed of speedos.

I appreciate this will upset most people posting on here, but it's clear from some posts that people do not understand this technology, or don't read the instructions, or don't take the advice being given by Tekin and the Tekin Team guys. There is nothing wrong with the Tekin hardware or software that means you can 'accidentally' get these sort of problems.

No two makes of motor are the same. They all put their '0' in a different place. With the amount of timing we are now using, we are on the ragged edge. Any mistake is liable to be fatal, as recent posts show - and fatal means to the motor and the speedo.

I can only repeat the advice Randy (and I) give time and again - set your motor to zero, gear light, and slowly increase the amount of timing and turbo you are using. Only copy someone else's set-up exactly - same motor, same gearing, same speedo settings, same track. If any of those differ, dial back on the timing and gearing. Gear up and time up only if the clock and a temp gauge say you can. You CANNOT copy settings directly when all the parameters are not the same, as countless posts on here illustrate. HTH
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